Automatic dispenser knocks out when washing machine is started

Washing machine knocks out circuit breaker (plugs)

If when you turn on the washing machine or during operation the washing stopped, the indicators went out and the light in the whole apartment went out, probably blew out the automatic.

If the machine is new and was turned on for the first time, it is most likely a problem with the electrical wiring. The reason may lie in the use of low-quality protection devices, or in the use of RCDs of the wrong capacity. It is dangerous to replace or install new RCDs yourself. Unqualified intervention in the electrical network in the apartment can cause fire or overheating of the electrical wiring.

Automatic breaker can knock out and in that case if in addition to the washing machine was connected a lot of other electrical appliances, and the grid could not withstand the load exerted on it.

The new machine can beat out the automatic machine also because of a factory defect. In this case it is necessary to apply to the service center for warranty repair or replacement of the defective machine. If you need washing machine repair in Saratov, then contact our firm. Masters will perform it as quickly and accurately as possible.

Is the connection correct?

In most cases, tripping of the RCD, and even an ordinary circuit breaker is a consequence of the wrong wiring scheme or choice of rating. If there is a possibility of such a mistake, it must be excluded in the first place.

Washing machines, dishwashers and other appliances with active heating elements must be connected through a ground fault interrupter to prevent electrocution. Since such appliances are classified as high-power consumers, their power is carried out by a separate line: a three-wire cable with a socket that does not connect any other electrical appliances. The protective conductor is connected directly to the common ground bus, and the neutral and phase conductors are connected only to the lower terminals of the RCD with the corresponding marking. Connecting the neutral conductor to the common neutral busbar is guaranteed to result in faulty tripping.

Leakage current rating RCD preferably choose at 30 mA. higher values could be dangerous to humans, while a higher threshold of sensitivity, such as 10 mA can lead to false positives because of leaks in a fairly complex circuit power supply appliances. Separate recommendation: Buy a mechanical-type RCD as it is more reliable.

The current rating of the RCD should be chosen according to the load rating of the line. Since the power of most washing machines is in the range up to 3 kW, the protective device will be sufficient capacity to withstand a current of 16 A. A somewhat different approach applies when choosing a circuit breaker. Its purpose is to prevent damage to the wiring if an overload or short circuit occurs, such as a coil breakdown. The line for the washing machine power supply trimmer is laid with a single-core copper cable with a core cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2. For these wires, the current limit is 25A. The washing machine’s power supply circuit should preferably be protected by a two-pole circuit breaker to prevent polarity reversal in the AC mains. It is best to select the “B” trip characteristic, as it is the most sensitive for domestic circuits.

Damage to the power cord or plug

Damage to the cord or plug will result in an open circuit and overload the line. A short circuit caused by this problem could cause the automatic to trip and damage the appliance if it does not have built-in short-circuit protection.

The integrity of the cord can be checked by “testing” it with a multimeter. To do this, unplug the machine and put the feelers to the extreme points of the cord. before the plug and before the inlet of the washing machine. If the tool beeps, the cord is good. You can also check the plug by “wiring” the contacts one by one.

Faulty cord can be replaced by yourself.

IMPORTANT! Before replacing the power cord, the appliance must be disconnected and the water drained from the machine. Do not tilt the equipment.

Diagnosis of the washing machine

Checking a problem requires the observance of safety rules. The machine must be de-energised, the supply lines disconnected and the drum emptied of residual water. First it is necessary to conduct a careful inspection of the power cord. Here are important constructive integrity of the plug, no traces of melting and bloating of the shell. The pins must fit tightly into the socket. The presence of backlash is the cause of overheating and triggering of mains protection mechanisms. A digital multimeter with two probes is sufficient for a complete diagnosis of the washing machine cable and to confirm its suitability for further operation. Evaluate the uniformity of the cores and insulation takes 1-2 minutes.

To remove the cord correctly it is necessary to:

  • Remove the rear protective cover (screws or fasteners-clips);
  • unscrew the bolt, dislodge the plastic stopper to remove the noise filter;
  • Consistently disconnect the terminals of all three conductors (phase, zero, ground), remembering well or marking with a marker their correct location.
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Install the tested or new cable in reverse order.

Some manufacturers implement access to the power cord mount through the removable bottom. To prevent residual liquid from getting onto the electronic control module, the washer-dryer must be placed on the side edge of the detergent drawer.

Error Codes

Modern household appliances have built-in self-diagnostic programs. Critical breakdowns and violations of operating rules are shown as unique alphanumeric combinations on the display or a set of illuminated indicators on the control panel. If the washing machine knocks out the automatic machine when you turn it on, the user manual specifies the causes and error codes that are appropriate for this situation:

  • Incorrect connection to the mains;
  • Short circuit in control circuit;
  • malfunction of the water heating element (TEN);
  • Voltage fluctuations;
  • The contacts of the reversing relay are jammed;
  • triac or motor controller failure
  • failure of the drive motor
  • Tachogenerator malfunction.

Dangerous problem should include a water leak alert to the bottom. This is where the power cord connection point is located. When washing, liquid can get on the contact group, causing the mains wire to short out and knocking out the plugs.

Line filter failure

The asynchronous motor, the relay on/off, the heating element switching on and off cause in the electrical wiring the current values to change abruptly, the high impulse and high frequency interferences. This factor negatively affects other household appliances, accelerates the wear and tear of wires, meter and safety devices. On the other hand, the washing machine can fail due to voltage fluctuations.

For such situations, there is a special surge protector (noise suppressor), which has a waterproof housing, contacts for connecting the power cord and a built-in capacitor that equalizes the input/output current to a stable level of 220V/50Hz.

Theoretically, the washing machine can be connected directly to the electrical circuit, ignoring the surge protector. But very soon there will be a critical breakdown of the drive motor. Not only is exceeding the normal voltage dangerous, but also when it drops too much. Without a capacitor in the interference suppressor, the electric motor has nowhere to take the missing power to rotate the drum, but the current continues to flow to the winding, converting into excessive destructive heat.

automatic, dispenser, knocks, washing, machine

Indicative symptoms of gradual failure of the mains filter can include spontaneous changes in the selected washing program and the appearance of the smell of melted insulation. The hermetic design of the housing is not repairable. The complete replacement of the device is necessary. Here you can use the algorithm for removing the power cord, which is connected exactly to the noise filter.

Failure of the heating element

The tubular electric heater is in contact with the poured water for its instant heating. Large amount of dissolved hardness salts leads to formation of a solid scale, which disturbs the heat exchange processes, forcing the heating element to work in overload mode. The hermetically sealed outer casing and inner core gradually deteriorate. The slightest leakage is the cause of the automatic machine kicking out when the washing machine is switched on or during the first stages of the washing program (before the water heating).

Looking inside an engine during cold start (-30 degrees)

A faulty heater needs to be replaced. Diagnose with multimeter. This requires:

Remove the back cover; disconnect the terminals of power supply wires; set the value of 200 ohm on the scale of the device; lean the tips of the tester to the contacts of the heating element.

A functional unit has a resistance of 20-50 ohms. If you get a different result. the electrical continuity is broken. A ground fault can easily be checked by measuring the resistance between each contact of the heater and the grounding bolt (located between them). Even insignificant values other than zero, confirm the fact of leakage of differential currents, which provoke electrical injuries and RCD tripping.

Motor short circuit

Up to 50% of all electric motor faults are inter-turn faults in the start or work winding. The main causes of failure are water leakage, overloading, which leads to overheating and the gradual destruction of the insulation. As a result of contacting the metal coils of the coils a short circuit occurs, the washing machine knocks out plugs in the counter. It is not worth restoring such a motor. It is better to buy a new one at once, the price of which is only slightly higher than expensive and time-consuming repairs.

Wiring problems

It is best to check the power supply circuit according to the following algorithm:

  • At the very first start-up of a new device, disconnect the circuit breakers. If this is the only problem, it will be enough just to adjust the circuit breakers. Perhaps the wrong type of automatic circuit breaker or RCD is installed. On how to choose the right automatic circuit breaker on the CMA, read here.
  • Plugs can blow out if powerful appliances such as a kettle, vacuum cleaner or oven are working in the neighborhood.
  • Wrong cable was used: Only 3 x 2.5 VVG type is suitable. The best solution would be to install a separate network and provide it with a separate outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

The answer to the question, what should be the correct plugs of the machine, can be found in

None of the suggested options are not suitable? Then it is necessary to check for the integrity of electrical wiring and the socket itself, which will suffice to include a similar power appliance.

By the way, the outlets are best to buy with a special moisture-protected housing.

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If all the above-described does not give an answer to the question, why does the electricity knock out when you turn on the device, then the problem is in the washing machine. Need to go to plan B. to search for faults in the unit.

Possible Faults

The reasons why a washing machine blows out a light are usually related to a breakdown. Here are common faults that our craftsmen have encountered.

The cord or plug. from 900

Before you get into the washing machine, check the cord and plug. They may be shorted, so the machine blows a fuse when you turn it on, wash or spin it. Plug and cord replacement required.

Faulty heating element. from 1300

In 90% of cases, when the washing machine blows out the power, the heater is to blame. Cork blows right out when powering on or during the wash. Hard water, aggressive detergents corrode the heating element body, the water gets on the coil and causes the heating element to short circuit or breakdown. In the latter case, the circuit breaker blows. A faulty heater must be replaced with a new one.

Thermal sensor. from 1200

Shorted or punctured to ground. Plugs blow out immediately when switching on or during the washing. Defective temperature sensor must be replaced.

Control module. from 1800

When using a washing machine in humid conditions, condensate forms on the inner parts of the machine. Particularly on the contacts and/or board tracks. This causes current leakage on the case (then the RCD blows out) or short circuit (then the circuit breaker blows out).

The power button or other buttons. from 900

Button’s contacts are burned or oxidized, that’s why the electricity is cut off. Foreman wires up the contacts, replaces the whole button or the control panel with buttons.

The motor. from 1800

There is an inter-turn fault in the motor or the motor is shorted to the frame. Blows out the plugs right after you start the washing. Defective motor needs to be replaced.

Price for work only, spare parts are paid separately

If your washing machine knocks out the circuit breaker or automatic, call the “Vosh Maine”. The master will come within 24 hours and repair your washing machine at home with a warranty up to 2 years.

The automatic machine knocks out when you turn on the old machine

We have listed the reasons why the dispenser kicks out on startup.

Why does the washing machine knocks out the machine

First of all, with such a failure, many people immediately go to the panel or counter toggle the automatic switch to the ON position and continue laundry. If the failure is caused by overloading the system, such actions are unacceptable. if you turn on the machine yourself during overloads, you risk breaking expensive household appliances.

Important! Experts agree that in such a situation, you need to find the reasons why the plug or automatic circuit breaker knocked out, or call an electrician to fix the problem.

If you first decided to find out yourself why the machine blew a RCD or fuse, familiarize yourself with the typical causes of such a malfunction:

  • Installing the wrong safety device and residual current device.
  • Worn or unsuitable wiring.
  • Short circuit in the power cord of the washing machine.
  • Breakage of a socket.
  • Malfunction of the surge protector.
  • Buttons on the control panel (usually the start button) are shorted.
  • Breakdown of the SM control module.
  • Burnout of the terminals and damage to the wiring of the automatic machine.
  • Breakage of other components: electric motor or heater.

Important! If you have never repaired electrics before, then entrust a repairman (electrician, washing machine repairman) to find the cause of the breakdown.

Next we will consider each of the problems separately.

164 Комментарии и мнения владельцев on “What to do if the automatic knock out while the washing machine is running”

It’s a good thing our water is soft. No limescale problems. the machine’s been running for 10 years and the heating element is as good as new.

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No, Alexander, I did not use sealant, although initially there was such an idea.

Looks like the back wall behind the washer is drywall, and the outlet is IP20. If it does not have a branded automatic circuit breaker and no RCD, then he obviously crazy, as most of my customers. I have to gently explain to them their insanity and measures to get out of it. Usually more than 95% understand, agree, and I put them in plasterboard boxes for concrete (severe case), sockets IP44 (sliding feet are thrown out), automatic machines and diphrele (type A) Hager.

I also burned out the heater.I identified it as described in the article (by testing the wires) and when the machine should heat the glass on the door.from heating water. No glass heating.see the heater.

Usually over 95% understand Teach me too. What are your arguments?

Kolke 13/10.2013 Usually the situation looks like this. I come to the customer’s home (I repair apartments according to advertisements). I see the old Soviet automatic AE1031-1 (only protection against overload), aluminum wire APPV, grounding only in the 1-2 sockets in the kitchen. I ask about the health of the customer, whether it is enough for a hard conversation. Usually they lie about the good stuff, but most people can’t sleep afterwards. As clearly as possible, if necessary, several times, in the presence of the chief financier and the men, I explain the rules, regulations and principles of repair. I give you a booklet (with pictures) from Schneider Electric about the problems in the apartment and how to solve them. I offer to show these rules and regulations if necessary. A typical objection. why do we need it, we lived this way for 30 years and will live another 30 years. I explain that they have been living on a powder keg, and it is necessary and not catastrophically expensive to stop. You do not need to believe, but to know that the apartment will not burn down and people will not die. It is risky to apply such shock therapy, people are frankly shocked, they never expected that it would be so bad and complicated. Many are not ready to do everything at once, some nervous kick me out the door. That’s how it is in general terms. Of course, for such a conversation and yourself need to have a lot of knowledge, experience, the ability to gently, but persistently persuade. Not everyone is willing and able to do this, most just want to make money at any cost.

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Maybe you can tell me where to download such a booklet electronically)

For Evga 01.11.2013 This booklet was on the Schneider Electric Ukraine site, I have it in electronic form. But: now it may have been removed from the site (I could not find it even with the telephone support of the company), and it is in the Ukrainian language. Here there are no rules of commenting, but if such a booklet is still useful, and the administrator will not mind, I can give my E-mail.

Elalex, send the brochure to my email, I will send it to Evga and take a look myself.

Request the Admin, if it is not difficult to send me and. Interesting to know what it says.

Every one and a half to two years I remove the Ten from the machine and clean it more from all sorts of buildup than from limescale.The photo is just the remains of various junk on the heater.

I have an interesting problem: The circuit of the washing machine MATURA OKOMAT, which is 20 years old. began to break the RCD.After disconnecting the grounding wire from the outlet, using the indicator I found a “phase” on the body of the washer.I pulled the plug out of the socket and ran the indicator “SEARCH-2″ (you know how sensitive it is, even the rubber hose rings) on the horn of the plug in relation to the body of the machine.And there’s nothing. There’s no circuit. It just beeped once and then stopped. Inserted into the socket again phase on the body I gave up on the case and warned his people not to touch the machine. Time passed and I bought a NEW washer.After the solemn putting it into operation, I explained to my wife that now she can safely touch it, which I decided to demonstrate with the back of my hand After receiving a little electric shock, I rushed to get the indicator, and oh-soon again the phase on the housing.Withdrawing the plug, tested the horns with the body, again nothing, no chain Plugged the ground wire in the socket-phase is naturally gone, but now waiting knock out the RCD.I haven’t had one yet, but I have a feeling I will. Now the question itself: two coincidences-already a rule, it is unlikely that the new machine repeated the failure of the old one.In machines there may be an element (a capacitor for example) which does not react to the diode, but lets a “phase” through to the housing?

The washer has as many as 2 capacitors on the input: one each for phase and zero, the other ends of the capacitors on the case. So if the case is not grounded, it is 110V.

Wow! Now the machine will last another 8-10 years! Thanks for the helpful articles with detailed photos. I’ll go read your instructions how to connect the washing machine, because it often “hits” me Why is it that the body punctures?

automatic, dispenser, knocks, washing, machine

Elalex, it’s normal for a manufacturer to have dangerous voltage on the body of an electrical appliance. I always imagined the grounding as “just in case”,but to imagine it as a permanently operated current-carrying partkind of wild ((

Alexander 14.12.2013 at 00:58 Every manufacturer of metallic electrical equipment (except double insulated and ultra-low voltage) expects it to be grounded. In this case, the dangerous voltage on the body of the appliance can not be. Unfortunately, the view that grounding is done “just in case” rather than there being a live current-carrying part constantly in some cases is common. We need to get rid of it. In the example of the washing machine, high-frequency interference is constantly escaping through the ground. There is another case. surge suppressors, which divert short high voltage pulses (in terms of theory. the same high frequency interference) from the phase and neutral wires to the ground (real), through varistors, and this happens every minute.

elalex, thank you, very clearly explained.My parents washing machine is installed without grounding, but the indicator on it is silent.But it can be design differences of manufacturers.

Alexander 14.12.2013 at 13:37 There are different indicators. Those that operate on a small safe current flowing through the person to indicate the phase requires not too good isolation from the ground. For example, the person is standing on a good insulation (eg, a ladder), the indicator does not light. Leaning the other hand against the wall. lights up. The idea is to know the qualities of his indicator and not trust it too much, only as a 1st degree test. 2nd stage. incandescent lamp.

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