Failure of the expansion valve
For normal operation of the refrigerator a metered amount of refrigerant must be supplied to the evaporator. If it’s fed more than necessary, it won’t evaporate fully. If less than necessary, the amount of boiled Freon will not be enough to cool.
The TRV (thermostatic expansion valve) is responsible for the quantity of refrigerant. They come in a variety of designs. But in time they fail. It is impossible to determine by yourself if the thermostatic expansion valve is broken. The problem has the same symptoms as many other problems. Some expansion valve can be repaired, others must be replaced. This decision has to be made by the refrigerator maker.
What’s the danger of ice?
All refrigerators have to be defrosted, both with and without defrosting systems. The difference lies only in the frequency, complexity and duration of the procedure itself. In any case, you can’t do without it.
The biggest mistake a refrigerator owner can make is ignoring the problem of ice. This has only a negative result.
Mildew in the freezer is unsightly, inconvenient and, worst of all, expensive. The crusts prevent normal use of the refrigerator. The volume of the freezer decreases significantly and you have to put the food farther from the walls.
If there is food in the freezer wrapped in clingfilm or a thin plastic bag, the food may freeze to the ice layer.
It will have to be torn off with effort, tearing the shell and sprinkling the floor next to the freezer with ice cubes. Slightly later, puddles form and require cleaning.
The unpleasant appearance and inconvenience of using a frostbitten camera are not the main problems.
Thick ice layers make it more difficult to maintain the set temperature. Refrigerators turn on more often, run longer, work worse, and use more electricity. It has been observed that housewives who take care of the freezer in a timely manner pay less for light. We told you about your fridge’s energy use and how to save money in this story.
The compressor of the refrigerator with a large amount of ice wears out faster, and the service life is reduced. Its replacement is an expensive type of repair, which costs almost half the cost of the appliance itself.
There are certain recommendations concerning the frequency of defrosting the fridge, but one should be guided not so much by theory but by the actual amount of ice.
Causes and speed of frost formation are different, so sometimes it is necessary to clean the freezer more often than advised by manufacturers of household appliances.
Some modern models are equipped with this button. That is, you just press it to start the defrosting process. The fridge itself doesn’t need to be unplugged. It is convenient because the freezing chamber continues to work. But sometimes the button is located inside the body. The user himself can accidentally press it, as a result of which the work of the device is suspended. That is, you need to turn off this mode for the refrigerator to work again.
Why the refrigerator doesn’t work, but the freezer works? Troubleshooting
You are about to have a snack and find that it is abnormally warm inside the fridge compartment and excessively cold in the freezer compartment? Or the compressor is working continuously, although only yesterday it was intermittently silent? It is not at all pleasant to find out about the breakage of such an expensive appliance, is it??
But, probably, the problem will be not so global as it seemed at first sight and everything can be corrected with your own hands. We will help you to find out why the fridge doesn’t work but the freezer keeps working and we will advise you how to fix the detected malfunction.
In this article the most common causes of such failures are collected and the ways to fix them are discussed. We have selected illustrative pictures and video tips from the experts that will help you to find faults in different models of refrigerators.
Using of refrigerator “Indesit”, as well as any technique, fraught with a possibility of breakage. Some may appear after defrosting the unit.
Defects of the defrosting sensor and timer of refrigerator “Indesit”
The defrost sensor of an Indesit refrigerator, which includes a fuse and a thermostat, can fail after defrosting. Then the defective element will need to be replaced. It is not difficult to check the sensor: the contacts close only when the temperature is much lower than the room temperature.
Electronic defrosting timer also can be in need of replacement. Especially if the defrost sensor is defective.
Refrigerator doesn’t cool after defrosting
often than not, the appliance will not cool after defrosting when the compressor is broken. In single-compressor refrigerators in this case:
- Cooling does not start, but the light in the chamber is functioning.
- The engine hums, but the device doesn’t freeze.
- The light in the main chamber is on, but the motor stops working after starting, and both compartments don’t cool.
- Lights and one chamber work.
- Motor hums, equipment won’t shut off. Chambers do not cool and do not freeze.
- Clicking noises can be heard and lights on. Neither chamber cools.
The reason for the lack of cooling after defrosting does not always lie in the failure of the compressor. In no-frost models malfunctions often appear due to poor quality frost removal.
Malfunctions can also occur if the gasket is not properly sealed.
Automatic defrosting does not work
Problems with the work of the auto-defrost are often due to the breakage of the heating element. On electromechanical models the problem is indicated by the lights flashing and the code F07 on electronic models. It is not always necessary to replace the necessary element. Sometimes it is enough to check the wires and connection.
If replacement is still necessary, it is better to invite a technician to diagnose and perform the appropriate work. If you defrost your Indesit No Frost fridge correctly from the beginning, these problems can be avoided.
What is better: a drip defrost system or No Frost
The drip and No Frost devices are identical in the basic principles of operation. The units’ walls contain a refrigerant, Freon, flowing under pressure generated by the compressor. Aggregate state of the substance changes from liquid to gaseous, in parallel the evaporator heating changes, which reduces the temperature inside the refrigerator.
To find out which refrigerator defrosting system is better, let’s determine the parameters for comparison:
- easy to maintain and simple to use;
- correspondence of the energy consumption class and noise level;
- Preservation of the quality of the food and the space available in the fridge.
Advantages of drip systems compared to No Frost systems:
- win in the price range;
- are available in a wider range;
- The units do not require any special maintenance;
- use less electricity, the operation of the unit is less noisy.
If it is necessary to repair, it is more difficult for the craftsmen without special qualification to understand the peculiarities of No Frost complicated scheme.
Finding the cause of fridge malfunction by ourselves
Our managers will answer all your questions, choose the necessary equipment and prepare a quotation.
The fridge doesn’t turn on
|Signs of malfunction||The Problem||The cost of work|
|The light in the refrigerator is on, but the motor does not work. It is possible that you hear clicking noises. the motor is trying to “start” but immediately stops.||Compressor burned out. Clicks you hear are made by the starting protection relay, which turns the motor on and off. Often, the refrigerator turns on and off almost immediately. Compressor motor must be replaced.||from 2400|
|The light in the electromechanical refrigerator is on, but the motor doesn’t work. Occasionally “clicking” sounds are heard.||Most likely, the thermostat (thermostat regulator), which is responsible for determining the temperature in the refrigerator, is out of order. “Brain” does not receive information that it is too warm. as a consequence, the motor does not turn on. Thermostat must be replaced.||From 1500|
|The light in the fridge compartment with electronic control is on, but the motor does not work.||The air sensor in the fridge chamber could be out of order. The brain fails to send a signal to the control center that the temperature has reached the critical level and that it is time to start the motor. Air sensor needs to be replaced||from 1500|
|Your refrigerator won’t start and the lights aren’t on.||Most likely there is a breakage in the starting protection relay. The defective part must be replaced||from 1,500|
|Cooler doesn’t turn on. The light in the refrigerating chamber can either be on or off.||Control module may be defective. In this case the problem is in the “brain”. It receives data from the sensors, but does not make “conclusions” and, accordingly, does not give any commands to the engine to cool. The control board needs to be re-flashed or replaced.||from 2500|
The refrigerator works constantly, it does not turn off
|The problem||Repair costs|
|Worn or damaged rubber seal on refrigerator door. The door is no longer closing tightly and the motor is overloading to compensate for the excess heat coming in from outside. Seal needs to be replaced. This is cheap and does not take much time.||1000-1500|
|Thermostat or temperature sensor breakage. In this case there is no signal going to the “brain” of fridge that the low temperature is reached, that is why the motor continues freezing. The problem can be easily solved by replacing the sensor. the operation is simple, performed by a technician on site.||1000-2000|
|Control module fails. With such breakage, brain can not see or processes signals from temperature sensor incorrectly. In case of a minor malfunction the technician will put the refrigerator back in operation at the first visit, but sometimes the electronic boards need to be “re-flashed”. In this case the master will take it away and return it at the next visit.||from 3000|
|Clogged capillary tube in the evaporator. As a rule, blockages are connected with depressurization of the pipe and formation of an ice “clot”. The technician will try to locate the exact location of the clogged tube during the visit, and repair the refrigerator at once. In some cases it turns out that in order to repair it is necessary to disassemble the unit almost completely. This is a messy procedure, so the refrigerator will be taken to the service center and then returned back repaired.||from 3500|
|Refrigerant leakage from the refrigeration circuit. Such a breakdown leads to a reduction in the volume of freon, due to evaporation and condensation in the freezing chamber, which produces cold. Sometimes it is possible to eliminate the problem quickly and on the spot, in some cases special equipment and working space of the service center may be required. It depends on the location of the leak and the specific model of the refrigerator.||from 3500|
|Compressor wear. The “old” compressor is incapable of creating a sufficient pressure in the blowing pipe and as a result, the set temperature mode is not achieved. hence the non-stop motor operation. Compressor motor replacement can be performed either at the customer’s home or in the repair shop. this again depends on the particular refrigerator model.||from 3200|
Snow coat forming in refrigerating or freezing chamber
|Failure||The problem||Repair costs|
|In the refrigerator with independent temperature control in the chambers (two temperature controllers), there is an even layer of ice in the freezing compartment. At the same time the refrigerator rarely shuts down, works almost continuously.||Probable cause of ice formation. Failure of the temperature sensor in the freezing chamber. Due to the failure, it mistakenly reports that it is not cold enough inside the freezer, thereby “forcing” the motor to freeze more intensely. As a result the freezer gets a snow “coat”. The temperature sensor requires replacement.|
This defect is characteristic of the refrigerators with a simple device, when the temperature in both chambers is regulated by one thermostat located in the evaporator of the refrigerating chamber.
The drain hole, through which the humidity resulting from the defrosting process should drain into a special tray under the refrigerator and evaporate there, is clogged. When the drain is clogged, the water cannot escape and accumulates at the bottom of the freezer, freezing up with a thick layer of ice. In no-frost models with the drip-thaw defrosting system, the drain hole is also provided in the refrigerating compartment; therefore in case of a clog, the water will be accumulated in the refrigerating chamber under the drawers for vegetables and fruits as well.
In refrigerators with the Full No Frost system, the cold air duct in the fridge compartment also freezes and as a result, it no longer cools.
Freon leakage is the most common:
Leak in the sealed part. from 8000
The cause of freon clogging could be a “clot” formed as a result of “burning” of machine oil, which is present in the system together with the freon.
It is required to clean the capillary pipe and to fill the fridge with freon. Also need to check the oil and replace it if necessary.
Proper operation of the valve consists in the alternate switching of the two modes: cooling of the freezer compartment separately and both compartments simultaneously. If the valve gets stuck in the mode of simultaneous cooling of the freezing compartment and refrigerating compartment, the refrigerating chamber overfreezes and the freezing compartment on the contrary freezes badly.
Fridge compartment does not cool
|Failure||The problem is||Repair cost|
|Fan does not work and 10 hours of defrosting did not help.||Fan “burned out” electric motor (typical for “nofrost” models). Your failed unit needs to be replaced.||2000-2500|
|Oily liquid is visible under the refrigerator or the motor starts for 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off.||Fridge cavity motor-compressor malfunction. In case of small decompression the breakdown can be diagnosed by oil traces on the floor under the refrigerator, and in case of complete failure. As per symptoms “motor runs for 5-10 seconds and then shuts off”. In any case, an inspection of the motor is required, which results in the repair or complete replacement of the compressor.||3000-3500|
|Blistering of the wall and/or heavy, irregular frost in the refrigerator compartment.||Freon leak in sealed part of refrigerator.New evaporator needs to be installed and freon needs to be recharged.|
The freezer does not freeze
|Failure||The problem||The cost of repair|
|In the double-compressor refrigerator, the motor that operates the freezing chamber, turns on for 5-10 seconds and then turns off at once|
The fridge freezes heavily
|Failure||Problem||The cost of repair|
|In a fridge full of “no-frost” water is leaking from the freezer. There is heavy ice and unfrozen water inside the freezer compartment.||The seal is most likely to be worn out. Warm air is infiltrating into the fridge, to compensate for the excessive heat the unit is freezing harder than necessary. This results in a “fur coat” on the walls, food freezes.|
The rubber seal needs to be replaced.
The drain hole must be cleaned.
|Failure||The problem||Repair cost|
|Refrigerator full of “no-frost” water leaking from the freezer compartment. Heavy frost and unfrozen water inside freezer compartment.||The drain hole in the freezer may be clogged, and therefore the excess moisture cannot leave the chamber. Accumulating water partially freezes, forming a “coat”. The same part of the water that didn’t have time to freeze is leaking through the seal onto the floor. To solve the problem you need to clean the drain. However, it is “inside”, under the plastic box. So we recommend to entrust such an operation to a repairman.||from 1,500|
|In the refrigerator with “crying” evaporator water is leaking from the refrigerating compartment along the front part. Also the water “stands” under the drawers for fruits and vegetables.||Perhaps, the drainage hole in the fridge compartment is clogged. It is located in the lower part of the back wall. If crumbs or other small objects fall into it, the hole gets blocked and the water has nowhere to go.|
You can do it yourself: take a small syringe and fill it with warm water. Inject water into the hole.
|In addition to the constant beeping in a single-compressor refrigerator, both chambers do not work, while in a double-compressor refrigerator, one of the compartments does not work. At the same time, the motor usually operates without shutting down, or with a short break for “rest” to compensate for the lack of cooling capacity and reduce the temperature to the set value. The red light of some models can illuminate or flash. In the case of electronic refrigerators Ariston on the display appears error A2.|
The Know-Frost freezer compartment temperature is elevated and the compressor is running, but the fan is silent. The unit beeps all the time.
If a refrigerator with a drip defrost system in the fridge compartment. the fridge compartment works properly.
If the fridge-freezer is Full No Frost. it is warm in the refrigerating chamber.
The choke may have “frozen. Also, the pilot reed switch or geared motor that turns the shutter may have malfunctioned.
Buzzing or humming noisily
|Failure of||Problem||Repair costs|
|Noise and humming when the compressor motor is running.||The motor-compressor is likely to be worn out. Piston or piston ring wear and tear may have occurred as a result. As a result, a loud noise is heard when worn components are running. Severe wear and tear also causes decompression of the motor. In this case, besides the loud noises during work, you will notice longer work of the compressor motor. The motor needs to be replaced.||2,500 to 5,900|
|The refrigerator is noisy when the compressor motor is running, and the noise is especially loud at the beginning and end of operation||Most likely the compressor dampers are loose and the vibrations from the running engine are especially strongly audible. At the moment of starting and stopping there is a jerk, so the sound becomes stronger.|
Your fridge requires a complete defrosting: at least 10 hours! If the freezing problem recurs after a while, it could be an indication of a number of malfunctions. The refrigerator door is probably not tight or the evaporator heater (in the models with no-frost) is out of order. In both cases, you should unplug the refrigerator and call a technician for diagnosis. Using the refrigerator with these malfunctions can cause the fan motor to fail, and then you’ll have to replace it as well.
It is possible that the refrigerator door seal or evaporator heater need to be repaired or replaced
Ice forming on the rear wall
|The freezer compartment is freezing too hard. Fridge motor turns on frequently, working with a short break to rest. Frost has evenly frozen on the rear wall of the fridge compartment.||The thermostat is defective in electromechanically-controlled models, measuring the evaporator temperature, or in electronically-controlled refrigerators, the air temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the cooling compartment.|
The defective temperature sensor erroneously signals that it is not cold enough in the refrigerating chamber and “forces” the motor to work more frequently to reduce the ostensibly high temperature. Rear wall of the unit does not have enough time to thaw and a snow “coat” is formed on it.
As a result of the leakage, the refrigerator motor begins to run nonstop “trying” to compensate for the lack of cooling capacity.
Leak must be repaired and freon recharged. If the evaporator leaks, it often needs to be replaced.
The rubber door seal has worn out and as a result, warm air enters the inside of the unit. The “crying” evaporator of the fridge is not able to thaw because of the constant operation of the motor and the rear wall of the refrigerating compartment is covered with ice.
The sealing rubber needs to be replaced with a new one.
Due to a breakdown, the valve is “stuck” in the cooling mode of both compartments, resulting in the refrigeration chamber overfreezing.
Turns on and shuts off right away
|Failure||The problem is||Repair cost|
|The fridge switches on and off after several seconds. A distinctive clicking sound is heard and refrigerator motor is strongly heated.||Most likely, the motor-compressor malfunctioned: there was a winding breakage, an interwinding short circuit or the motor “jams”.|
Defective motor begins to run, gets very hot and to protect the compressor from overloading, the starting-safety relay is activated, after that the motor turns off.
A defective motor-compressor cannot be repaired; it must be replaced.
Control board needs to be re-flashed or replaced.
Making a click but doesn’t freeze
|is defective||The problem||Repair costs|
|Clicks can be heard when the electromechanical refrigerator is turned on, but the motor does not turn on at all.||The thermostat is most likely malfunctioning. This sensor normally sends information about the temperature to the control module, which gives the motor the command to turn on or off.|
The thermostat always operates with a clicking sound, but if the motor does not start due to malfunction and does not start making noise, the clicks can be heard particularly clearly.
The defective part should be replaced
It is necessary to change the inclination of the refrigerator or, if it doesn’t help, to adjust the springs that hold the compressor.
Troubleshooting Defrost System Problems in Refrigerators
Door doesn’t close
|Failure||The problem is||Repair costs|
|Door will not close, probe test revealed that the paper does not lock at all||Most likely the door bindings are loose, and the door can no longer fit tightly.|
Our managers will answer all your questions, choose the necessary equipment and prepare a quote.
Our managers will answer all your questions, choose the necessary equipment and prepare a quotation.
What to do if the freezer has stopped freezing?
It is necessary to disconnect the refrigerator from the electric mains and try to determine the preliminary cause of the malfunction in order to inform the master about it. In most cases, it can be done based on the external manifestations of the malfunction. We strongly recommend not to make repairs by yourself. Only an experienced specialist will be able to eliminate the occurred malfunction quickly and safely without damaging important and expensive appliance components.
What to check first of all
First of all check the position of the thermostat. You may have inadvertently set it to the minimum setting at which the freezer compartment defrosts. It is necessary to make sure that there is no ice on the walls. It can damage the rubber seal of the door or simply prevent its tight closing, provoking the penetration of heat into the chamber.
In this case, it helps to defrost the unit completely or to replace the sealing gasket. If the above-mentioned problems are eliminated, but the freezer still does not work, then you have encountered an internal breakdown and you should seek help from professionals.
The compressor motor
If you are the owner of a single-engine unit, when the compressor motor breaks down, there will be no cold in all the compartments. If only the freezer stopped freezing, but the refrigerator works, the appliance is equipped with two compressors. In this case the freezer motor usually starts for 3-5 seconds and then shuts down. Causes of malfunction:
- Compressor motor components are worn out;
- motor stator winding has broken off (you can smell the fumes);
- The starting protection relay responsible for starting and timely switching off the compressor is broken (if the motor doesn’t start at all and you can hear the clicks)
- Excessive load on the motor. For example, the user frequently switches the thermostat to maximum freezing or rapid cooling mode.
This part is installed on electronic control units. Defective sensor sends wrong signals to the control module or does not send them at all. Accordingly, the processor does not understand that the temperature in the freezer has exceeded the permissible value and does not command the starting relay to start the motor. Compressor is functioning correctly, but there are long pauses between starts.
This assembly is an integral part of electromechanical refrigerators and is a mechanically controlled temperature controller. the thermoregulator bellows flexes and unfolds depending on the pressure in the system, thus making and breaking contacts. Correspondingly, the absence of frost is a consequence of breakdown of the thermostat which is unable to close the contacts to start the engine.
If the freezer continues to work, but freezes badly (freezing is not deep enough), the reason should be looked for in a faulty valve for switching between cooling modes. Most often the failure is manifested by a stuck valve on the simultaneous generation of frost in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Such malfunctions are characteristic of single-motor units with a weeping evaporator or “No Frost” automatic defrost system. The valve should be replaced because in this case the motor-compressor performs double work and it wears out much faster.
Refrigerant leakage due to mechanical damage to the refrigerant circuit. Do not categorically speed up the defrosting process by breaking out the ice with a knife or by placing a bowl of boiling water in the freezer compartment. It can provoke puncture of evaporator or formation of microcracks in it.
- Freezer compartment ducts or condenser tubes are worn or corroded;
- bent compressor motor tubes;
- The refrigeration circuit is damaged.
- motor does not turn on, rarely turns off or works continuously;
- In all compartments or in one of the compartments the temperature is significantly higher than normal;
- The evaporator is covered with ice;
- The condenser is cold (during normal operation of the unit, the condenser tubes are warm).
Refrigerant leaking through the steel circuit. Such a defect can be encountered by the owners of the units the cooling chamber of which is equipped with a weeping evaporator and the freezing compartment is located at the bottom. Signs of leakage:
- the body of the appliance is covered with rust near the freezer compartment;
- The freezer has been freezing badly for a long time, after which it abruptly stopped even cooling the food.
Cause of leakage. clogged drainage system. No water escapes or evaporates, so there is a puddle of thawed ice under the drawers. All liquid drains out onto the freezer compartment. If the plastic protection of the steel circuit is defective, then moisture is getting on it. The metal will definitely be corroded, and all the freon will eventually leak through the formed microcracks.
If the freezer does not freeze, but the external manifestations of this “malfunction” are not detected, it is necessary to diagnose the operability of the control module. Only the refrigerators with electronic control system are equipped with this detail.
Due to the damage of electronic components of the circuit board or due to some critical system errors, the computer has stopped signaling certain assemblies about the necessity of keeping low temperature in the freezing compartment. The electronic module should be flashed or the board should be replaced.
The device of a refrigerator with a drip system
Drip-freezer defrosting system is a modern widespread technology according to which the principle of work is even distribution of cool air flow over the whole surface of the back panel.
The structure of the fridge includes the following structural elements:
- condenser (a zig-zag tube attached to the rear wall) containing the refrigerant, which carries the heat to the outside; compressor;
- A capillary tube, where the refrigerant is converted from gaseous to liquid;
- The evaporator, located inside the pipe, is engaged in absorption of heat from the inner chamber
- relay controlling the temperature range.
To improve the efficiency of the device, insulating material is used for the inside. The device is hidden from the user’s eyes, the technical elements are hidden by a smooth wall.
How the drip defrost system works
Drip defrosting of the refrigerator works on the following principle: moisture accumulated on the back wall begins to condense because the temperature is lower than the other elements of the structure. The water falls into a separate container through a special trough and is drained to the outside.
The technical process is presented as follows:
- the compressor pressurizes the refrigerant gas in the condenser;
- in a capillary tube the gaseous refrigerant condenses into a liquid and is then sealed;
- The liquid gradually moves through the evaporator. The substance absorbs the accumulated heat, resulting in cooling;
- when the substance takes in enough heat, it begins to boil and is transported to the boilers. The transformation of refrigerant back to gaseous state takes place;
- the air circulating inside the refrigerator contains moisture. When starting the duty cycle, the evaporator has the lowest temperature inside the chamber. Moisture is converted into snow and begins to settle. Once the cycle is complete, the snow melts and becomes a liquid, gradually dripping down.
There is a special hole in the lower part of the wall, through which the liquid is eliminated from the refrigerator, moved to the container located above the engine. During the operation of the compressor, the water is periodically evaporated into the environment. The air circulation and cooling system is repeated in multiple order every day. Холодильник работает отчасти по принципу увлажнителя.