Does not turn on the cooling fan Geely sk

Geely MK / Cross. The engine cooling fan (radiator fan) often turns on

Why the cooling fan is constantly running or often turns on? After all, this is evidence of poor operation of the cooling system. It can lead to overheating of the motor and its failure. This problem is serious enough, in some cases, to fix it you will even have to partially disassemble the engine. The smooth operation of the power unit depends on how quickly you identify the fault. To check and repair it does not require special skills, any person can cope with it. The main thing is to know how to search for the cause of such behavior of the cooling system. Why the cooling fan is constantly running or frequently turns on, it becomes clear from the principle of its operation. It is turned on by a sensor located at the bottom of the cooling radiator. This sensor reacts to an increase in the temperature of the coolant, as a result, the fan turns on. It creates additional airflow, which enhances the cooling of the liquid in the radiator and, accordingly, the motor itself. On the basis of this, it is clear that the fan is constantly running, only on overheated power units. To avoid engine failure, it is necessary to react to the problem in time, and fix it.

Thermostat Overheating of the engine often occurs due to jamming of this element. The fan reacts, in the case of a stuck thermostat halfway open. In this case, the movement of fluid through the system slows down, which causes a decrease in the efficiency of heat dissipation. As a result, the engine begins to overheat, respectively, the temperature of the coolant increases. The sensor of fan activation reacts to it. As a result, it runs all the time. Checking the thermostat is quite simple. To do this, start the engine and warm it up to the temperature of the thermostat valve. This value is indicated on the housing of the thermostat itself. Wait a little more, and check the temperature of the upper and lower pipes. If both pipes are evenly hot, then the cause of the constantly working fan has been found. To be more sure, carefully examine the thermostat valve, after removing the part from the engine. Fix the problem by replacing the thermostat with a serviceable part.

Pump In many cases, the cause of high temperature of the coolant in the radiator is a bad water pump. In this case, the antifreeze slowly flows through the system and gets too hot. Once in the radiator, it does not have time to cool to a normal temperature, and goes on the next circle, heating up even more. if the pump works, then this problem is expressed only by the constant work of the fan. If the pump has failed completely, then in a few minutes the car will “boil”. This is an extremely dangerous condition, which almost always leaves behind consequences in the form of problems with the engine. A water pump does not usually fail suddenly. It first signals its malfunction. The first alarm signal is an increase in frequency of the radiator fan. The main cause is bearing failure and seizure. Therefore, a manifestation of failure may be a howling from under the hood or a knock, heard clearly when idling. Pump noise is often mistaken for a camshaft fault. The problem is solved by replacing the pump, some models provide the ability to replace only the front of the pump along with the bearing.

If the cooling system is blocked, it is often caused by blockages in the cooling system. This problem is often difficult to identify. Therefore, at the first signs of more frequent switching on of the fan without any reason, it is necessary first of all to flush the system. In many cases, this is sufficient. You can also blow out the radiator just in case. Usually, cleaning of the radiator and cooling ducts is performed together with changing of the antifreeze. The coolant is drained off to flush it. Then either a strong solution of citric acid or water with special additives is added to the cooling system. After that, they give the car a half an hour of work. Use only a small amount of coolant in the radiator to fill the radiator. In most cases this procedure is guaranteed to remove contaminants from the cooling system.

A dirty radiator All motorists know that the radiator is in the front, and is blown by the oncoming wind. So it gets all the dust and dirt on the road. This dust gradually collects between the radiator plates, significantly impairing the heat dissipation. In this case, the airflow is much worse for cooling the liquid. It gradually heats up to a high level and causes the fan to turn on. Repair in this case is simple, you need to clean the radiator. On many modern cars, it will have to be removed first, in some cases it is quite possible to get to it without even removing it from the car. It is recommended to flush it with running water. The easiest way to do this is to use a hose. In some cases, it makes sense to clean the radiator with a soft, dry brush before washing. This procedure is often combined with blowing out the radiator.

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Airlocks It is no secret that the cause of excessive fluid heating is airlocks. They appear due to errors in the replacement of antifreeze, as well as due to leaks in the cooling system. As a result the liquid heats up unevenly that leads to unstable fan work, with frequent switching on when a hotter liquid gets into a radiator. Before fixing it, it is mandatory to check the system for fluid leaks. After they are eliminated, go to the driving out of plugs. For this you will need a compressor. Unscrew one of the tubes from the throttle, which leads to its coolant. Next, you need to connect a compressor to the neck of the expansion tank, and supply it with compressed air. Usually a couple of minutes is enough to kick out all available corks.

Warming up for winter. Many motorists put special insulators on the radiator in the wintertime, it allows you to reduce the time of heating the car, and save fuel. But during the thaw the air temperature is quite high. In the presence of an insulator, the engine is not cooled enough, forcing the fan to work more intensively. To eliminate the cause, simply remove the insulation from the radiator.

The cooling system of the machine should always be in good condition. Therefore, the driver should carefully monitor the condition of this system. It is especially important to correctly find the reason why the cooling fan is constantly running or often turns on. This is certainly not a fatal problem, but neglecting this signal can lead to serious engine malfunctions.

The cooling fan turns on when the engine is cold: the main causes and the solution to the problem

does, turn, cooling, geely

As you know, various malfunctions of the engine cooling system do not allow the engine to reach the optimal temperature mode. The engine can overheat, which is fraught with its rapid failure, or remain cold, that is, do not reach the operating temperature.

Modern cars use a combined internal combustion engine cooling system: liquid and air cooling. Under the liquid should be understood circulation of tosol or antifreeze through special channels in the cylinder block and cylinder head of the engine.

The coolant circulates thanks to the pump. For additional cooling the coolant can also circulate in a small circle (inside the engine) and in a large circle, that is, through the radiator.

However, quite often drivers are faced with the question of why the cooling fan turns on when the engine is cold, the engine fan runs in the winter, or revolves constantly. In this article, we will talk about the reasons why the cooling fan is triggered when the engine is cold, the engine cooling fan does not turn off or the specified fan does not work properly.

Sensor of switching on of a fan Geely mk where is

Elimination of the permanent rotation of the fan by means of a belt drive reduced engine warm-up time. The electric actuator, which consists of a motor, relay, on-off sensor and battery, allows the fan to turn on only when the temperature of the engine exceeds the optimal value. This approach has made the internal combustion engine cooling system more efficient. The periodic switching on the fan allowed to reduce fuel consumption, because the time for heating the motor was reduced and there was no loss of power for the constant rotation of the blades.

How and where the sensor on the fan works

The sensor is based on a bimetallic plate which changes its shape as the temperature rises. If the coolant temperature exceeds the temperature indicated on the sensor body, the bimetallic plate will bend and close the sensor contacts. Electric current, which runs through the sensor contacts, turns on a power relay, which controls the fan motor.

The sensor is located on the side of the radiator. Some models have it on top, others in the middle. It is not difficult to recognize. It looks like a big brass nut with two (less often three) electric wires connected to it. If you are going to change the sensor of fan activation, consider the following. The lower the temperature at which the sensor trips, the lower it is set relative to the level of the coolant. The temperature on the sensors, which are installed at the bottom of the radiator, does not exceed 85 degrees. Sensor temperature, set in the middle of the radiator 90. 95 degrees.

How to check the sensor on the fan

Necessity in checking of sensor appears after overheating of motor or suspicion of bad work of cooling system. First of all you must check not the sensor, but wires and relay, which turns on the fan. For this purpose take off wires approaching to a sensor and short circuit them, if there are not two wires, but three, it is necessary to short circuit middle and each of extreme. The fan should turn on at low and high speed, depending on which contacts are closed. If the fan turns on, it means that the wires and relay are functioning and you can proceed to check the sensor, if not, you must find and fix the problem (broken wires, bad contact, blown fuse, burnt relay or fan motor).

After making sure that the relay, motor and wires are in order, proceed to check the sensor. You will need a coolant basin, a 30 wrench, a thermometer to 100 degrees, a pot of water, a stove and a multimeter. Remove the terminal from the battery and put a basin under the car so that the coolant from the radiator pours into it, not onto the ground. Wait until the radiator cools down to 45 to 50 degrees then unscrew the drain plug (located at the bottom of the radiator on the left or right side). After the fluid drains out, screw the plug back in. Remove the wires from the sensor (mark each one, if there are 3, so you do not mix them up when installing the new sensor), and use a 30 mm wrench to unscrew the sensor.

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Pour water into the pot to cover the working part of the sensor (up to the nut) and put it on the stove. Monitor the temperature of the water with the thermometer.

Use a multimeter to check if the sensor contacts work. Two multimeters are desirable for a three-pin. Turn the multimeter into the resistance measurement mode with an audible signal and connect to the sensor leads. When the bimetal plate contacts close, the multimeter will begin to beep. Turn off the heater and wait for the multimeter to turn off. Compare the thermometer reading when the sensor pins are triggered and when they are turned off. If the deviation from the values written on the body of the sensor is greater than 5%, it is advisable to replace the sensor. If the deviation exceeds 10%, or if the sensor does not work at all, you must replace it. Installation proceeds in the following order. screw in the sensor, pour coolant, connect the battery.

It is necessary to perform the following actions.

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Checking and Troubleshooting Air Conditioning System Geely CK-1 / CK-2 from 2005

Checking the air conditioning system

You need to have the entire system checked to determine if there is a problem. If the coolant level is too low, check for leaks and top up the coolant. Also, before starting the system after a long period of parking, it is necessary to carry out a complete inspection. The first step is a visual inspection, then check with a tester.

During normal operation of the system, the low-pressure lines should be cold and the high-pressure lines. hot. Based on the above, the condition of the system can be recognized by touching the piping with your hand.

(1) High pressure zone: compressor → condenser → dryer → expansion valve; the temperature changes from warm to hot. If the temperature change is not as described, but one element is too hot (e.g. the surface of the condenser), it indicates that this part is defective. Or, if one of the elements is too cold (e.g. dehumidifier), it indicates that this part is defective and the system may be blocked;

(2) Low pressure zone: expansion valve → evaporator → compressor; if the temperature change is not as described, the system is faulty;

(3) Compressor. Compressor inlet and outlet temperatures should be different. If the difference is not significant it is an indication that the system is not tight and there is a refrigerant leak.

Check for leaks

(1) Visually inspect all system connections and surfaces for oil spots. Presence of spots indicates that there is a refrigerant leak (refrigerant cools oil as it evaporates, refrigerant evaporates, oil remains as a spot);

(2) Apply a soapy solution to the connection, if soap bubbles appear, it means there is a leak in that place;

(3) Test the compressor with a halogen detector. When using a detector, note the color similar to a propane flame. If there is no leak, the color stays the same, with minor leaks the color will be greenish, with large leaks, the color will be blue or purple;

(4) Check each piping and valve connection;

(5) Check the hose, especially at the connection points;

(6) Check compressor shaft seal, front and rear cover, gasket, filler plug;

(7) Check condenser and evaporator surface for cracks, dents, and damage;

(8) Check inlet and outlet of expansion valve and temperature sensor.

Checking the refrigerant

Inspect through the window, from the information obtained you can judge the condition of the refrigerant and the suspected malfunction:

Check cooling system of Geely CK / CK-2 / Otaka / Free Cruiser from 2005

Check the tightness of the cooling system

Attention: Do not remove the radiator cap when the coolant temperature is high, it may cause injuries, as the coolant is then under pressure.

Fill the radiator with coolant. Connect a pressure gauge to the radiator cap;

Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature;

The water pump pressure should be 1.18 bar. Check the pressure in the system and make sure the pressure is not dropping. If pressure drops, check system for leaks. If there are no leaks, a more in-depth examination of the engine is necessary;

Notice: 1. Thoroughly wipe moisture from the surface of all tested parts. 2. When removing the radiator cap tester from the radiator cap, be careful to avoid splashing (leaking) coolant. 3. Be careful not to deform the radiator filler neck when connecting or disconnecting the tester, or while checking.

Check coolant level

The coolant level should be between the upper and lower marks on the expansion tank.

Note: If the coolant level is too low, check for leaks and refill the coolant to the top mark.

Check coolant quality

Remove the radiator cap. To prevent burns, do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, hot fluid and steam may be ejected from under the cap under pressure;

There must be no traces of rust or oil in the coolant;

Check thermostat

Check the thermostat opening temperature;

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Immerse the thermostat in a pot of water and gradually heat the water;

Check the thermostat opening temperature. It should be 80. 84°C;

Check the thermostat valve lift height (ref. illustration).

Note: The thermostat valve lift height is 8mm at 95°C.

Check the thermostat valve’s full closing temperature, it should be 77°F (77°C).

Check radiator cap valve

Standard valve opening pressure: 0.93. 1.23 atm. Minimum pressure: 0.78 bar. If the pressure is less than the minimum value, replace the radiator cap with a new one.

Checking the Fan

Check fan when coolant temperature is low (below 83°C):

a) Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position;

c) Disconnect coolant temperature sensor connector (see illustration); b) Check fan operation. c) Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor connector (see illustration);

d) Connect the temperature sensor wire to the body with a wire;

f) Reconnect the temperature sensor connector.

Check the fan at a high temperature, about 93°C (see “Checking the fan at a high temperature, about 93°C”). illustration):

a) Start the engine. Warm it up to a temperature above 93°C;

b) Check fan operation. If fan does not work, check coolant temperature sensor operation. Replace if necessary.

b) Connect the battery and ammeter to the fan connector;

c) Check the fan speed and the ammeter reading.

Note: Current rating: 5.7. 7.7A.

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Geely CK manual. page 11

(3) Blow through the hole from E to F, the airflow should be obstructed (Fig.114).

Crankcase ventilation system. The air movement should be free.

Do not allow foreign objects in the valve;

Overheating Help! | Testing Cooling Fans. Relays. Connections

Replace the valve if its operation is not as required;

Blow out the valve on the intake manifold side. The airflow should be obstructed (Fig.115).

(1) Detach the muffler. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the muffler assembly; (2) Remove the resonator assembly. (3) Remove muffler intake pipe. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the intake tube

(4) Install the silencer intake pipe. Using a caliper, measure

(6) Install the resonator assembly and check the free length of the spring. Loose spring length. (5) Attach muffler intake pipe to muffler. Use a new gasket, mount the muffler intake pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Note: Do not install the old gasket.

(5) Fasten silencer intake pipe. Tightening torque

(6) Install complete resonator. Use a new

(7) Install silencer. Use a new gasket

(8) Check exhaust system connections for leaks.

Check the cooling system for leaks:

(1) Fill up the radiator with coolant. Connect gauge to cap

(2) Start engine; (3) Water pump pressure should be 1.18 atm. (5) Check system pressure and

check that the pressure does not drop. If the pressure drops, check the system for leaks. If there are no leaks, a more in-depth examination of the engine is necessary;

Check the coolant level in the expansion tank.

The coolant level should be between the lower and upper marks.

Check the quality of the coolant:

(1) Remove the radiator cap. To prevent burns, do not open the cap

radiator cap on a hot engine, hot fluid and steam may be ejected from under the cap under pressure;

(2) The coolant liquid must be free of rust and oil; (3) Install the radiator cap.

(1) Check the thermostat opening temperature (Fig.119);

(2) Immerse the thermostat in a vessel of water and gradually heat the water; (3) Check the thermostat opening temperature. It should be 80. (4) Check the thermostat valve lift height should be 8

(5) Check the thermostat valve’s full closing temperature, it must be

Standard valve opening pressure is 0.93. 1,23 atm. Minimum pressure: 0.78 bar.

If less than minimum pressure, replace radiator cap.

(1) Check fan at low temperature (below 83°C): (a) Turn ignition key to “ON” position; (b) Fan must be standing; (c) Disconnect temperature sensor connector (Fig.122); (d) Connect the temperature sensor wire to the body with a wire; (e) Check the operation of the radiator; (f) Connect the temperature sensor connector. (2) Check fan at high temperature, over 93°C (Fig.123):

(a) Start the engine. Warm it up to a temperature above 93°(C); (b) Check the operation of the fan. If fan does not work, check coolant temperature sensor. If necessary, replace it.

(a) Disconnect fan connector; (b) Connect battery and ammeter to fan connector; (c) Check fan speed and ammeter reading. Standard value of current 5.7. 7.7A;

What to do when switching on the cooling fan on a cold motor

Sometimes car owners are faced with a situation where the cooling fan turns on and starts running when the engine is cold. Although under normal conditions of functioning of this element, it is obliged to activate only when the engine temperature reaches certain values.

There are quite a few reasons for this situation to occur in modern cars. Some of them can lead to serious negative consequences, if measures to eliminate the causes and provoking factors are not taken in time.

To understand the situation, you need to learn about the causes of fan activation, to understand its work and find the best methods of solving the problem.

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