When turning on the fan a slight vibration and rpm start to rise.
In general, I noticed one peculiarity, when the fan starts a slight vibration and rpm rises. It feels like the engine is stalling. as soon as the fan stops spinning, everything runs smoothly. how it is connected to the engine and what happened? it did not happen before. mileage is 40th 1.5 years;. car is 1.5 years old
The PS fan is the one that cools the engine, not the passenger compartment fan)
Ignition skips on Peugeot 308. what is it?
You can find the spark gaps without any diagnostic equipment. Dash light bulb for Peugeot 308. features of the product selection and tips on the replacement process Any motorist will agree that the properties of the light. Here are the main symptoms:
- engine revs;
- the check illuminates;
- The fan is running all the time;
- power drops sharply and fuel consumption increases;
- an error message appears.
On Peugeot 308, the ignition fault codes start from P1336 (ignition fault, not detected cylinder), in order up to P1340 (ignition fault on the 4th cylinder).
- Poor quality fuel;
- insufficient compression in a certain cylinder; the rating is 12.6-13 atm in each cylinder. If compression is abnormal or one of the cylinders has low compression, it means there are no compression rings, air drainage, malfunction in timing gear
Citroen C5 2008, engine Gasoline 1.8 liter., 125 h. p., Front drive, manual. vehicle breakdown
Sometimes also very seldom the coolant temperature goes from 7 to 8 and then back to 7 after a while.
Seems to be ok, fan is working as it should be.
Thermostatic Control System principleThermostatic Control System determines the cooling requirement at a given moment and adjusts the cooling system accordingly. Under certain operating conditions the coolant pump can even be switched off completely, e.g. in order to heat the coolant quickly during the warm-up phase. It can also start and stop the auxiliary coolant pump which is responsible for cooling the turbocharger. That is, the cooling intensity can be set independently of the engine crankshaft speed. The temperature control system is able to switch both the mechanical coolant pump and the electric auxiliary coolant pump on and off as required, as well as adjusting the programmable thermostat. In this way, the engine management system can adapt the coolant temperature to the driving situation. These measures have further reduced fuel consumption.The engine management system regulates the following temperature ranges: 109°C = Economy mode 106°C = Normal mode 80°C = High mode with connected controlled thermostatIf the engine control unit senses an economic operating range from the vehicle’s dynamic performance, the engine management system will raise the temperature to 109°C. In this temperature range the engine operates with a relatively low fuel consumption. Internal engine friction is reduced at high temperatures. Thus, higher temperature contributes to low fuel consumption in the low-load range. If the driver wants to use the maximum engine power, the temperature in the cylinder head is reduced to 80 °C for this purpose. This reduction improves the fill level, which leads to higher engine torque. The engine control unit can now, according to the driving situation, make adjustments within a certain operating range. It is thus possible to influence the flow and output through the cooling system.If the coolant or engine oil temperature is too high during engine operation, certain functions in the vehicle have an effect in the direction of increasing the energy required to cool the engine.The measures are divided into two groups: Parts protectionTemperature of coolant 117°C or higherThe oil pressure and temperature sensor in the main lubrication channel shows an engine oil temperature of 143°C or higherMeasurement: e.g. reduced power to the cabin air conditioner and engine Emergency caseTemperature of coolant 122°C or higherThe oil pressure and temperature sensor in the main lubrication channel shows an engine oil temperature of 151°C or higherMeasurement: e.g. reduced engine power (approx. up to 90%).
And I have 8 squares. it’s normal, but 9 appears with excessive heat and is accompanied by the cooling system fan switching on. Never observed less than 8 in motion. The vibration of the engine, or rather the vibration of the body, you probably go when the fan is on and it happens because the fan blades are covered with mud or ice. It happens in the winter. Clean the fan and you’ll be fine, or you’ll burn the relay or engine.
I usually have 7 normal, both antifreeze and oilwent to the car wash today and seemed to have the radiator and fan washed. I haven’t seen any overheating or vibration yet, but the temperature is outboard.It’s 15 degrees I’ll see when it’s near zero!)
Has anyone used a hand-held sprayer to clean the underbody?? I think there’s a sticker forbidding it.
No and there is no need to wash anything there. The radiators and the fan will be washed at the service.
Has anybody used a scrubber under the hood?? I think there’s a sticker forbidding it.
there was a sticker only on fuse box teammates used to wash (and do it regularly). they wrap vulnerable units in bags and go ahead you can wash with steam if you’re afraid of water I used active oxygen foam (in OKie) and used a hand sprayer to wash mine.
I will probably use a dryer to clean only a radiator with a fan and in the spring I will wash and leave it to dry in the spring sun. ))
I wash radiators with steamI think it’s saferespecially if it’s too dirty.
See, we don’t have any specialty services just regular car washes and there are regular little services(
I wash with steam at a regular car wash the steam generator isn’t that exotic right now see if you can find such a machine around here.
I’ll try to find one, this is the first I’ve heard of it!))
Most likely dirt on the fan I had this. washed it passed.But with time it appeared again(((I guess I have to wash them again!
I’ll go to the car wash and be sure to wash itor take it off and wash it?
I haven’t had it removed.I asked for it at the service station and they washed it.It is not practical we have it installed!((That’s sticking all sorts of things ( (
Sensors and contacts
In modern engines (regardless of gasoline or diesel) the cycle is controlled by electronics: it changes the ratio in the fuel-air mixture, selects the timing of ignition advance, in some engines. the time and opening angle of the valves. All changes are based on the readings of numerous sensors. Besides the serviceability of the device itself, the quality of connector’s contact (chip), the integrity of the wires, the battery charging level and onboard voltage have an impact on the reliability of these readings.
Indicators, which may cause the engine to run hot:
- Crankshaft position sensor.
- Camshaft position indicator (if any).
- Oxygen sensor. lambda probe.
- The fuel pressure sensor (common rail).
- Air consumption meter (flow meter).
- Temperature gauges (oil, exhaust, coolant).
- Sensor of choke (throttle) position.
It often happens that a car engine starts to rev up because of a single magnet and a piece of wire, and before the source of the problem is detected, the car owner has already changed plugs, injectors or even a fuel pump.
The spark plugs are consumables, it is necessary to change the plug at the first suspicion of its failure, but sensors and other electronic devices are designed for “lifetime” work, so their failure is an abnormal case.
If the car often trots when hot. to rule out malfunction of one or more sensors. you need to perform a detailed computer diagnostics, or if the car is “old”, and is not equipped with a BC with a self-diagnostic system. sequentially remove the parts that are “in question”, check their connection, power supply, test the car tester.
Idling engine: common causes and quick diagnosis
It is obvious that with a malfunction like this it becomes difficult to operate the vehicle, because you constantly have to increase the speed to maintain normal operation of the engine. The result is a marked increase in fuel consumption, cold engine start can also be very difficult, etc.д.
The first thing to do is to find out which cylinder is malfunctioning. To do this, start the engine, and then disconnect the high-voltage wires from the plugs one by one. If after disconnecting the power supply the work of the engine changes, it means that the cylinder is working. Disconnecting the power supply from a non-working cylinder, on the contrary, will not change the sound and character of the power unit.
Having identified the problematic cylinder, you should start by checking the ignition system. As a rule, at the initial stage it is necessary to assess the condition and check the performance of the spark plug on a particular cylinder on the spark. It is also necessary to pay attention to the high-voltage armature, checking it.
In some cases, replacing the spark plug or cleaning it allows you to normalize the engine and get rid of the “trojan. It is worth remembering that, although the spark plugs may be rated at 30-80 or even 100 thousand. km. But if you use local fuel, you often need to replace these elements already at 20-25 thousandths of mileage.
It is also important to consider that, checking the high-voltage equipment, it is necessary to observe the technique of safety. If you have no experience, it is advisable to put a block of wood, rubber mat, etc. under your feet.п. Also, when disconnecting the wires from the plug, you can not hold the cap. It is necessary to take hold of the high-voltage wire. When doing this, you should try not to touch the engine and the car body.
At the same time, it should be understood that the armature wires can also be damaged and punctured. By the way, if the spark goes somewhere, in the dark time of the day, it is enough to look under the hood to find the breakdown.
It can be added that you don’t need to disconnect wires on engines with direct fuel injection, it will be enough to disconnect the fuel supply control wires from the injectors, identifying the problematic cylinder by changes in the ICE operation.
Note that when the diesel engine is Trojit, you need to perform the test by switching off the diesel fuel supply to the injectors. This is done by unscrewing nipples on the high pressure lines.
Blown Alcohol 454 Big Block Chevy Rear Engine Dragster Fire up
And now let’s imagine that the right cylinder is found and the spark plug gives a spark, the armature lead is in good order and the engine is still Trojing. In this case, it is necessary to unscrew the spark plug once again and examine the tip, determining whether it is wet or dry. As a rule, it will indicate problems with mixture formation.
If the spark plug is wet, then the fuel-air mixture may be too enriched. Dry spark plugs indicate excessive richness of the mixture. In both cases, the cylinder will not operate with such a mixture, even if the ignition system is functioning properly. The reason can be contamination or damage of injectors, as well as air intake.
Also recommend reading this article on why engine vibration is transmitted to the bodywork. From this article you will learn about the main causes of the increase in the level of vibration during the work of the engine at idle and under load.
As part of the diagnosis, you can perform a quick check of the injectors by disconnecting the power plugs from them. If when disconnecting power from any injector, engine operation does not change, then it is a faulty element. To confirm or refute this, it is necessary to swap this injector with the one in the neighboring cylinder. If the cylinder will work normally, then it’s not the injector.
I would also like to note that the trophy can be caused by a more serious reason. the decrease of engine compression. In other words, it is a problem with the valves and/or the cylinder head. In this case, low compression often occurs in only one cylinder. To determine this, you need to know how to measure the compression in the engine.
Revving Engine Till It blows up #shorts
Finally, you should remember that the injection engine also throws up in many cases due to damage or failure of coils, switches, ECU sensors, improperly set the timing, etc.д. In some cases, there may be no spark, and in other cases, there is a spark and the fuel supply is normal, but the throbbing is still present.
In situations like this, it’s going to be very difficult to solve the problem yourself, especially on the road. It is better to immediately go for computer diagnostics. For example, a malfunction or incorrect signal from the DMRE (mass air flow sensor) is often the cause of an engine that runs rough and rattles when idling.
Why the engine starts to vibrate
So, what is the reason for the TNT of a modern gasoline engine with a fuel injection system?
To begin with, the engine thrashing is a disturbance of the combustion mixture in the cylinders, which is accompanied by a pronounced increase in vibration. Pay attention, the appearance of ICE vibrations is not necessarily a TNT, as there are a number of other reasons why the engine strongly vibrates.
The list of the main malfunctions, as a result of which the engine trots, are noted:
- The supply of insufficient or excessive amounts of fuel into the cylinder;
- Insufficient or excessive amount of air supply;
- ignition system malfunctions, early or late ignition;
- engine wear or failure, which is accompanied by a decrease in compression;
In other words, the engine starts to bleed as a result of inadequate composition of the fuel-air mixture, untimely ignition of the mixture or inability to ignite the charge, as well as a violation of the conditions of normal combustion as a result of mechanical wear or damage to the engine itself.
Based on these data, you can narrow down the search and the number of systems to be diagnosed. Start with the fuel system and the injector, then check the intake air and the ignition system. In some cases, the engine thrust may also be the result of a malfunction of one of the sensors of the electronic engine control system.
The most common cause that causes the engine to be at a standstill is late or early ignition, as well as a weak spark plug spark. At the initial stage, you should unscrew the spark plugs for a detailed inspection. If you can see signs of damage to the insulator or other defects, then the spark plug must be replaced.
In the case of a damaged insulator, the place of damage is clearly visible, as this area turns black. Also pay attention to the condition of the center electrode and assess the clearance of the side electrode.
Next, you need to check the spark plug wires. Indirect sign, indicating this element, is occasional flickering of engine in high humidity (rain, damp, etc.).д.). After the engine has warmed up and reached the operating temperature the symptoms may completely disappear.
Start by inspecting the spark plug cap and the high-voltage wire itself. These elements have rubber insulation, which tends to dry out and crack over time, as a result of which the wire begins to pierce.
Also the high-voltage wire or cap is often damaged during service or repair work in the underhood. We can add that the breakdown point may not be visually detected. In this case, it is better to check this element of the ignition system with one of the available methods.
If everything is all right with the plugs and wires, then the ignition coil may be the culprit for the engine tripping. On engines with a separate coil for each spark plug, this phenomenon is especially common. To check the ignition coil you need to unscrew the plug, put it on the ground and run the engine. Note that the spark plug threads must touch the ground firmly and the cap should be tightly applied to the spark plug. Ignoring these rules may burn out the coil or the commutator. A good spark with a characteristic crackling sound is an indication that the coil is in good condition, while the lack of spark will indicate the need to replace the coil.
As for the electronic ignition distributor (commutator), this element is not often broken. To check the plugs firmly fastened to the ground, then connect the caps, and then one person twists the engine with the starter, and the other person evaluates the spark plug power.
It’s a boo-boo-boo for a reason!
There’s very little theory today. Engine stalling is when a four-cylinder engine starts skipping ignition for some reason in one of the cylinders. Although, once on the Internet I encountered an amusing theory that the throbbing is when a four-stroke motor is missing one of the clock cycles. Well, it happens. I’m not going to comment on this scientific discovery.
Anyone who started out as a motorist with a 9 or something similarly spiritual and staple will immediately roll up their sleeves and in most cases find the cause of the malfunction. Those who have recently sat behind the wheel of injected car and mix up the wood-polymer compositeB (about which we wrote not so long ago) and the oxygen sensor, have a harder time. It seems that there are too many smart things, blocks, sensors, and other “kompuhtors”, and it’s hard to make sense of such an engine. There is some truth in this. The death of the same wood-polymer compositeB can also lead to an insecure start of the engine, and to its throbbing. But let’s face it: it is not so often that these sensors die by themselves, and the reason for the TNT is much more often much simpler. And to find it yourself is not only easy, but also pleasant.
It’s impossible not to notice the throbbing itself. The engine is running rough, instead of a regular “trrrrrr” from the exhaust pipe you hear some uneven “trrr-boo-trrr-boo”, and sometimes it can slam quite loudly (if gasoline accumulates in the exhaust, evaporates and hits from the heated iron). Sometimes (but not always) the Check Engine light will blink or be on. And it is already a good reason to be engaged in diagnostics.
I want to warn you right away: computer diagnostics itself is a necessary thing and good, but do not expect that someone for 500 will connect to your car his Chinese scanner ELM 327 and immediately diagnose. Most likely, the result of this diagnosis will be the phrase “ignition failure in such a cylinder,” and that’s it. Why the skip, where the skip comes from, what to do with it. all this puts such a grief-diagnostic in a stalemate. In answer, you will see the way a recluse pensioner looks at LJ and you will hear inarticulate bleating. So if there is no money or desire to go immediately to a good, but expensive diagnostician, it makes sense to deal with the engine yourself. As an example we will disassemble the simplest atmospheric four-cylinder gasoline engine which is in the majority in modern budget cars.
I suggest a non-standard approach to the problem. We’re not going to go from cause to effect, but the opposite. the way we deal with it in life. That is first of all we shall carefully examine, under what conditions the throbbing occurs, and already on the basis of this information we shall think, why it can appear. Let’s start with the simplest case. the tripping after the morning start in wet weather.
Engine warm up: causes and common malfunctions
Let’s begin with the main signs. Often a cold engine starts quite normally, but then begins to stall after a partial warm-up or a complete return to operating temperature. In this case, the TNT can manifest itself as an idle and under load (when driving).
If you shut off the engine and let it cool, after the restart the power unit runs smoothly again, but the situation repeats as it warms up. Let’s look at the main causes of the TNT of the gasoline engine and ways to detect malfunctions.
In any case, wrong readings or malfunctions of the sensors (lambda probe, temperature sensor, DPMV, etc.д.If the engine is hot, it may cause such symptoms as heavy engine rumbling, explosion, etc. ECU on the basis of incorrect indications can over-enrich working fuel-air mix and fill plugs.
- Then you need to go to the spark plugs. At the initial stage you should remove the spark plug wires and unscrew the spark plugs from the spark plug cylinder. Next, a visual inspection of their contacts and insulators is performed. Normally, the plugs should be dry, grayish in color, without an abundant layer of soot.
If the spark plug is wet and/or oily, then it is obvious that there is an excess of engine oil in the combustion chamber or the fuel is not burning in the cylinder. In either case, a wet spark plug does not allow the cylinder to work properly. Let’s add that often both causes are often present at the same time or are a consequence of each other.
In simple words, there is a lot of oil in the chamber, the electrodes are oily, there is no spark or a very weak spark. If there is no or insufficient spark, the fuel does not burn or burns partially, which adds another problem to the greasing already present. Either way, it is important to check all the plugs to understand whether this phenomenon occurs only in one or all cylinders at once.
If all of the plugs are wet, check the oil level in the engine. When the level is elevated (often as a result of overfilling), the oil pressure in the lubrication system after the engine warms up is higher than normal, the excess grease penetrates into the combustion chamber and contaminates the plugs. The result is a weak spark.
The crankcase ventilation system should also be checked. For example, the breather hose could be kinked, there could be dirt, etc.д. The main thing is that the problems with the mentioned system also lead to the fact that the pressure increases and extra oil gets into the cylinders. If hot runaway is gone after pumping out the excess oil and cleaning the crankcase ventilation system, it is safe to say that the problem has been solved.
We also recommend reading the article on why the engine is struggling and the check flashes in different internal combustion modes. From this article you will learn about the main causes of such malfunction, as well as diagnostic methods for troubleshooting.
If this does not help, the spark plugs themselves will require increased attention. It is likely that even if the plugs have been recently changed, they will not be properly matched to the engine caliber and will be “cold”, and the plugs can simply go out of order or the product will be faulty. To check, you need a working set (it is better, if the plugs are taken from another car). If the engine does not crank on these seven plugs after warming up, it is necessary to replace the spark plugs.
Now let’s imagine the situation, when only one cylinder is hot, and only one cylinder is hot. In other words, the spark plug in this cylinder is wet, while the other plugs are dry. So, the first thing to do is to swap wet and dry plugs. If the dry candle did not become wet, and the wet spark plug in the other cylinder and did not dry out, then the problem is precisely the wet spark plug, which requires replacement.
If it turned out that the dry spark plug in the cylinder got wet, then it is worth checking the high-voltage ignition wire of a particular cylinder. The wire should be replaced with a working one. Also note that the problem may not be in the wires. For example, on carburetor engines, a frequent cause of ignition problems is the tumbler (ignition distributor).
On injector engines, ignition coil failures can lead to malfunctions. In the case of the tramler, it is necessary to disassemble, dry it, clean the contacts and make the necessary adjustments. If it is an engine with an injector, you can swap ignition coils and wires. This method allows you to quickly identify a faulty coil.
Ignition skips on Peugeot 308. what is it?
It is possible to detect ignition gaps without diagnostic equipment. Here are the main symptoms:
- The engine is at a standstill;
- the check lights up;
- The fan constantly works;
- power decreases sharply and fuel consumption increases;
- there is an error message.
On Peugeot 308, the ignition skip error codes start from P1336 (skip, not defined cylinder), in order up to P1340 (spark plug skip in the 4th cylinder).
There can be many reasons for skipping. from low-quality fuel, to insufficient compression in a particular cylinder. If we have already replaced the plugs, everything is also fine with the coils, then measure the compression. It is rated at 12.6-13 atm in each cylinder. If the compression is abnormal or one of the cylinders has low compression. this will indicate that the compression rings are laying, it is possible air drainage, malfunction in the timing mechanism.
Problem with the injectors
Errors P1336-P1340 can also occur because of a faulty or clogged injector.
In order not to remove the ramp, you can check the resistance on the pins of the injector. To do this you need a multimeter in resistance measuring mode.
Nominal injector resistance is 12.6-12.8 ohms.
You need to check it only at the moment of occurrence of malfunction. If all is normal with the resistance, it remains to flush the nozzles. it is better to do it on the flushing stand with a special liquid.
Problem with the timing belt
Problems with the timing mechanism with their own hands to determine and fix is not easy.
This requires removing the block head and performing a visual diagnosis, as well as measuring the height of the valve lift. For example, on an EP6 engine, the valve lift height at idle is 0.4 mm. and at high revs, it’s about 4 mm. BMW’s VVTi system is responsible for the phase change, which is quite difficult to figure out.
A frequent problem on 308s is valve seat misalignment or falling out. valve fouling, which will also cause the above-mentioned errors and symptoms.
Air intake can occur in several places:
- head gasket;
- inlet manifold gasket;
- leakage through the inlet manifold connections;
- EGR valve failure or clogging.