Fan does not start? Can be fixed!
What does an overclocker do to achieve an acceptable temperature condition in the system unit and for all its components? Correct, install additional fans or replace them with more powerful. And what does he do when he realizes that the roar of a whole bunch of fans is not compensated by ten extra megahertz that he managed to squeeze out of his CPU or graphic card? Right again, trying to reduce the RPM and with it the noise.
The most common way is to give the fan a lower voltage, usually 7v instead of the standard 12v. As a rule, it’s enough to plug one wire and we kill two birds with one stone: we lower noise to an acceptable level, but lower the temperature. Since the starting voltage for many fans is the same 7V, most tolerate this procedure painlessly.
Most, but not all :o(. Unfortunately I have encountered fans which do not have seven volts to start but have enough to keep them stable. If you push the blades a little the fan continues to run without any problems until the next time we turn it on, when we have another problem with startup. You should agree that starting the fan manually is not the most convenient solution and it often becomes impossible if the access to the fan is difficult.
We have the task to provide nominal power to the fan only at startup and a reduced power during subsequent operation. It turned out that the solution literally lies on the surface and is available to anyone who can hold a soldering iron.
In our case there is no need to change any wires and the fan is powered from the standard 12V. To provide the necessary voltage for constant operation we solder several diodes in series in the forward direction into the gap of the 12 volt wire. In doing so, each of them will drop about 0.7 В. The number of diodes is chosen so as to get the right voltage at the output. For example, we used eight suitable silicon diodes soldered out of a dead power supply and got an output of 6.8 В.
What to pay attention to if the fan does not spin (does not rotate)
First, a few words about important “nuances” (so that everyone understands each other):
- the cooler. by this I will not only mean the fan itself (which spins ✌), but also the heatsink and the copper tubes, etc. (т.е. the whole kit that cools the CPU);
- without a fan (or with a non-functional / non-spinning one). The CPU can run, without a cooler. no. In any case, the CPU should be cooled by at least a heatsink;
- to conclude whether or not the PC can be left to work with a non-working cooler. at a minimum, you need to know the model of the processor and its temperature under load.
In general, I should note that modern CPUs are equipped with a special heatsink. protective:
- If its temperature reaches a certain limit. it begins to reset frequencies (and as a consequence it is less warm);
- If lowering the frequencies did not help. then reaching a critical temperature, your PC will simply shut down (or reboot). As a result the CPU will be “saved” and will not burn out.
GPU Fans Not Spinning AMD Fix (2020)
But it does not give 100% protection from burnout. If it constantly works in “emergency” mode at high temperature. the probability of its failure increases significantly! (I’ve already had a couple of burned-out Ryzen models. )
Full diagnostics and troubleshooting
So we press the power button but nothing happens. What to do?
First: check the connection of all cables, including whether the power supply is on and powered from the mains. If there is no fault found we move on to the next step.
Second: check if the button works. Disconnect “POWER SW” wire and short circuit the corresponding pins. Contacts can be closed by any metal object without an insulation layer, whether it is a screwdriver, a razor or knife blade, a piece of wire or wire with stripped insulation. All you have to do is touch the two pins with it. If nothing happens, the contacts or the object may be greasy, you should degrease the contact and the object itself and repeat the action again.
Thirdly: if still nothing happens it’s time to take the components out of the case on a table or any other surface where you can work comfortably and examine the components. Try to run everything on the table, maybe the iron wall of the case somehow short-circuited the motherboard or any other element of the PC.
Fourth: if the actions described above did not yield any results, it is time to check the power supply. Naturally if you have a test motherboard or multimeter the check is much more informative and simple, but let’s imagine you have nothing. How in this case to check the functionality of the power supply (at least its ability to start the system)? To do this you need a piece of wire or wire with stripped insulation or, most trivial. a metal paper clip (preferably not painted). Straighten the paper clip and bend it into an arc. so that its two ends are parallel to each other. Next, unplug the power supply to eliminate the possibility of any electric shock. The rest of the power supply cables should also be disconnected from any connectors. You take a 24-pin (204pin, or 20-pin on the most ancient) pads and short-circuit the contact of the green wire with the contact of the black wire with the same paper clip or wire. If your power supply has unpainted pins, then position the socket as shown in the diagram, count off the appropriate pins and short them (the fourth from the top, on the side where the lock is located with the fifth/sixth/seventh from the same side).
Don’t forget that we de-energized the power supply. After shorting the pins, apply power to the PSU, remembering the button on the back.
If the power supply starts. Congratulations, the PSU is functioning properly. If the power supply fails to start. still rejoice, it is possible that only the power supply unit is defective (even in such a situation try to remain optimistic).
Fifth, let’s assume our PSU is perfectly functional. This means that the problem is with the motherboard and/or the components attached to it. Let’s start with the simplest method: remove the battery from the motherboard and short-circuit the contacts in the socket where the battery is inserted. Create a short circuit will be enough in the de-energized motherboard for literally 3-5 seconds. Next, try to start the board.
Sixth: if the above steps have not yielded any results, you should disconnect the video card from the motherboard, and at this stage begin inspecting the motherboard. I also recommend to use your sense of smell, if you can smell something burning then it is most likely that something is burnt and you should replace the component which is burnt. But if the visual inspection does not reveal any physical defects, then try to run the system without the video card (of course, and without other devices connected to the board).
How To Adjust PC Fan RPM
Seventh: If the previous step failed to start your PC, then you can find out by elimination: the problem could be with RAM, motherboard and in extreme cases with the processor (which does sometimes happen). You should try to start the system without RAM. If there is some junk in the slots, you should clean it out e.g. with a toothbrush (clean). If at this point the culprit is found, congratulations: either the problem is with the memory controller inside the processor, or the problem is in the motherboard RAM slots, or one or more memory modules. How to bring the RAM back to life. about this and other non-standard solutions of typical computer breakdowns you can learn from the previous material.
Eighth: let’s assume that the system does not start and in this case. So the problem lies either in the processor or in the motherboard. But don’t worry beforehand that some of them are dead or need expensive service repair. Remove the cooler from the CPU, clean the thermal paste off the CPU cover. Carefully examine both processor pins and substrate and CMT components (if any). If a visual inspection reveals that the CPU is in good order, it is time to inspect the socket.
Carefully inspect the per-socket area and the socket itself. If visual inspection does not reveal any problems and you do not smell burning, inspect the motherboard from the backside. You need to take off the backplate, carefully examine the CMT components behind the socket, examine all the tracks on the board for scratches, there must not be any cracks on the motherboard. If visual inspection also does not reveal a malfunction, then by key insert the processor back into the socket and try to start the system. At the very least, if the board still does not start, then try to start the motherboard without the processor.
Ninth: If in this case the system still refuses to start it means that either the problem is with the motherboard only or the problem is with both the motherboard and the other components (except the power supply unit). In this case all you have to do is remove the heat sinks from the motherboard’s power supply circuitry and inspect your motherboard’s so-called “power supply” accordingly. You should be interested in capacitors and field effect transistors (mosfets). While a faulty capacitor is easy enough to identify, a faulty transistor can most often only be determined by using a multimeter probe. A blown capacitor or dead transistor can easily be replaced by soldering with a 40-60 watt soldering iron.
The cooler on the CPU, power supply or graphics card is not spinning
If the cooler on your CPU, graphics card, and power supply isn’t spinning, you may have two reasons.
The first reason, the most common and not expensive, the cooler stopped spinning because it has dried out the grease and after one drop of oil it will serve you faithfully.
The second reason is a failed cooler can be checked with a multimeter in the diode switch mode, if it will give out a diode, it means the cooler is in working order. You need to wire the black and red wires.
How to Lubricate a Cooler
Many people use WD-40 to lubricate all kinds of squeaky or noisy mechanical components around the house and office. But don’t try to use WD-40 to lubricate your computer’s fan. WD-40 is designed as a cleaner / degreaser that can be used to loosen stuck parts, prevent corrosion and displace water. all kinds of problems not normally found in computer fans. WD-40 is also a lightweight lubricant that is better at lubricating something like a hinge that only moves around occasionally, rather than a computer component like a fan that is constantly moving at high speed.
I prefer to use machine oil or sewing machine oil because in addition to being a light oil, it has excellent viscosity, holds up well at high temperatures, and is specifically designed to lubricate moving parts running at high speeds. There is also a special silicone oil for coolers.
Other possible reasons
In addition to the things already described that can cause the problem, there are some other things to keep in mind.
- In a warm room the heat of the laptop will be greater than in a cold room. The reason for this is that the cooling system in your laptop uses the air around it, running it through itself. The average operating temperature inside the laptop is considered to be around 50 degrees Celsius, which is quite a lot. But the warmer the air, the harder it has to cool the system and the more hot the laptop. So do not use a laptop near a heater or fireplace, or at least place the laptop as far as possible from them. One more point: in the summer period the heating will be higher than in winter and just at this time it is necessary to take care of additional cooling.
- Along with external factors, the heating of the laptop also affects internal. Namely the actions which with the help of the laptop the user performs. On a notebook loaded with complex tasks depends on its power consumption, and the stronger the power consumption the more active is the heating of microchips and all the innards of a notebook, due to the increased power released in the form of heat all components of the laptop (this parameter has its own name. TDP and measured in watts).
- The more files move through the file system or are transferred and received via external communication channels, the more active the hard drive has to work, which results in its heating. For less heat on the hard drive is recommended to disable the distribution of torrents after completing their download, unless you do not need the reverse for ideological or other reasons, and minimize the hard drive accesses in other ways.
- When you play an active game, especially modern computer games with top-notch graphics, a serious load on the graphics system, and all other components of a portable computer. RAM, hard drive, graphics card (especially if a discrete chip is used) and even the laptop battery due to high power consumption during gaming. Lack of good cooling under prolonged and continuous loads can cause damage to one of the devices on the laptop, or damage to several. Also its complete inoperability. Best advice here: If you want to play a new toy, then choose a desktop computer or do not play on your laptop for 24 hours, let it cool down.
Preventing heat problems or “What to do?
For the prevention of problems, leading to the fact that the laptop is very hot, it is worth to use it in a clean, ventilated room. Placing the laptop on a flat solid surface, so that between the bottom of the laptop and the surface on which it is located was the space provided by its design. the height of the feet of the laptop, which are on the bottom of it. If you are used to keeping your laptop on the bed, carpet, or even on your lap. this can cause it to heat up.
In addition, do not cover the running laptop with a blanket (and anything else, including that you can not cover and his keyboard. In most modern models, through it goes air intake for cooling), or allow the cat to warm near his ventilation system, do not feel sorry for the laptop. At least have pity on the cat.
In any case, preventive, cleaning the insides of the laptop should be made at least once a year, and with intensive use, in adverse conditions even more often.
The cooler does not spin. What to do?
If you take out a moving part of the fan you will see not just a lack of grease, but also the presence of quite viscous composition, which is formed from the lubricant and small particles of waste materials: plastic, insulation of stator conductors and dust. First, thoroughly wipe all internal parts of the cooler from this compound. After that it is necessary to drop machine oil (the oil for sewing machines will do) on places where there is a slip of mobile parts of the fan. Then put the cooler back in its place.
You will be pleasantly surprised by the result: the cooler began to work, and it began to work much quieter than other fans of the computer cooling system. Using the moment, revise the other components of the cooling system of the computer, sometimes the cooler does not spin on the back wall, well, and other fans. Surely they have also worked long enough and can fail at any time.
How to solve the problems
Ways to troubleshoot for each of the breakdowns:
- In the case of contamination, the problematic part should simply be cleaned. This is done with a screwdriver or dust brush. On how to access the cooler located inside the laptop, written below.
- If the fan itself was damaged (the blades cracked or the rotating element stopped working), you will have to buy a new one. Such parts cost about a thousand in technical stores, you only need to know the model of the processor and the dimensions of the old cooler.
- At detection of problems with system parameters (if the fan itself was normal and more or less clean) it is necessary to download an anti-virus program and run a full scan of the laptop’s database for malware. If checking for viruses did not help, you may have to replace the entire motherboard. If there is a possibility, it is necessary to try the work of the fan on another board.
- Temperature sensor failures are easy to check. For this you need to download a special mini-program, which displays various architectural parameters, including the temperature of the processor. If the temperature is different from the real picture, or its indicators “jump” under equal conditions. for example, there are no processes on the laptop, only the utility window is open, and the temperature rises sharply and rises. it means that the sensors are damaged. The only way to fix it is to buy a new CPU or remove the old fan and install a third-party fan for external cooling.
Power supply fan is making noise
If your fan makes a whining or squeaking noise, you can lubricate its bearings with a light oil, such as machine oil. However, replacing a noisy power supply fan is much better, because its bearings are probably worn out and it will bother you again, even if you have lubricated it once.
Other reasons include poor connection of the block fan connector to the 2-pin connector (located on the PSU PCB) or failure of some components (capacitor, resistor, etc.).д.) In the electrical circuit, which is connected with the work of the fan.