The result of the work air
An ordinary fan is a rotor with fixed blades that deliver air as the rotor rotates. The position and shape of the blades determines the air direction. Household fans are classified by size, capacity, number of blades, design and functionality.
Efficiency of a household fan the higher, the more air it can move per unit time. For small rooms is quite enough performance of 100 to 300 cubic meters per hour.
As a rule, fans are produced with a power of 40-60 watts. It turns out that you should not always take into account such a parameter as power, as the main criterion. If a 40 W floor fan has the same motor speed as a 60 W fan, it means that fan efficiency in both cases will be the same. But the higher power, the more expensive equipment.
Paddles, blades, vanes
Fan blades, as a rule, consist of three to six blades and are made of plastic, sometimes of wood or metal. The position and shape of the blades determines the direction in which the air is discharged.
Floor-standing or desktop, or maybe wall-mounted?
According to their performance fans can be floor (Stadler Form Mistral HAU412, Bork P 503, Bora HAU 412), desktop (Scarlett SC-1371, Vitek VT-1912 PR, Maxwell MW 3510B) and ceiling fans (Bork P 110).
Table fans question price
Low-priced tabletop models have a capacity of about 30 Watts and 1-2 speeds, such as Mystery MSF-2409, cost on average 400-500.
If a table fan has some additional functions, as, for example, Bimatek FF 300 for 1500, then the device is more expensive. For this money we get a mechanical control, rotary function, 3 speeds, power 40 watts and air blast 5 meters long. It should be noted that there are not many desktop models on the market. But if your choice is in favor of local air blowing, then table fans are more convenient.
Floor fans, compared to desktop fans, have more size and power, as they are ready to provide coolness to a larger area of the room and, accordingly, they are more expensive in price.
Floor models question price
The market offers a wide variety of floor fans, great dispersion of prices. For example, the model Vitek VT-1908W medium has 3 speeds, adjustable in both height and angle. Model Bork P 503 is estimated at 7690.
It has not only the function of tilting the body, but it is controlled by remote control and equipped with a timer that allows you to set the time the device. Bimatek HT 400 has a heating element and is both a radiator and a fan. Such combination of features is priced at 2990 on the market, but there are cheaper options 2 in 1.
How to choose a fan for the house: help to decide on the criteria
With the advent of summer increases the demand for fans, relatively simple household appliances, familiar even to people who are far from technology. We will not bore our readers with the obvious arguments about what the fan is and what it is used for. Let’s notice only that the main rival of ventilator is air conditioner. The difference between these devices is essential: fan only increases air circulation in a premise, thereby creating more comfortable conditions, while air conditioner directly regulates the temperature.
The advantages of ventilator are obvious: it will cost several times cheaper than conditioner, it does not need a specialist for installation, and it can work with open windows simultaneously with airing of the room (while conditioner is able to cool air but will not provide fresh air i.e. oxygen). In addition, the fan can always be moved from one room to another or removed completely (for example, during the winter).
Let’s take a look at the types of home fans and understand what they are and how they differ.
Type of working mechanism
The simplest, most affordable and common type of operating mechanism of a domestic fan is axial. This is the first thing we think of when we talk about fans.
The axial fan is a wheel with blades fixed on an axis and mounted on a stand. An electric motor drives a wheel with blades that direct the airflow. The inlet and outlet air flow direction for such appliances is horizontal. Where the fan looks in, the airflow is directed. The blades of these fans are usually plastic. To protect people from coming in contact with the blades (and to protect the blades from damage if the device falls), they are covered with a casing of metal mesh.
Axial fans often have an additional swivel mechanism that enables the fan to turn a few degrees to the left/right, thus increasing the working area.
The more modern type of radial fans. The easiest way to explain how such a fan works is using the example of a classic snail fan, consisting of a cylinder with curved blades and an air duct to blow air out.
With such a fan, the air goes inside the cylinder and is pushed out in all directions. With an enclosure with a dedicated duct, the air is predictably routed in the desired direction (through the outlet designed for it).
Centrifugal fans are usually used in column-type appliances, which are a narrow vertical housing with a grille on the front (that is, they belong to the floor models, although occasionally such wall and table fans are found).
Finally, mention should be made of bladeless fans that work on the principle of a turbine, blowing the air and pushing it through the frame in the right direction. These fans provide a fairly strong, steady and uninterrupted flow of air. Such devices look stylish and futuristic, and the absence of open blades, which can be reached by children, makes these devices the safest.
How to install
Household fans can be divided according to the type of installation. There are not many variants: fans can be installed on the floor or on a table, or mounted on the wall or on the ceiling.
For residential areas, desktop, floor and ceiling fans are most often used. The choice of one or another method is usually dictated by the room characteristics (not everywhere there is a place for a floor fan), design decisions, as well as safety issues (in an apartment with small children it is better to place the fan out of their reach).
Note that ceiling fans are often combined with a lamp, which also saves space. They are usually placed over the bed, dining-table or sitting area. They are also often installed in country houses on terraces and gazebos.
Desktop fans are usually purchased due to their compactness to maintain the comfort of the workplace.
Floor-standing fans are good because of their mobility (they can be easily moved from place to place). They are also quite powerful and usually have a fairly large angle of rotation, which makes them a versatile solution for both home and office. Centrifugal fans are almost always floor standing.
Fans with wall mounting method are not very popular. The reasons are clear: such a fan lacks mobility and can serve only a predetermined area of the room.
Finally, let’s mention portable battery-powered fans. They are also quite rare. often users choose a compact USB-fan, which can be powered from a computer port, a cell phone charger or a portable charger (powerbank). The power of such devices is small, but in cases where you need the most compact solution, they are quite usable (for example, in the workplace).
Power and performance
As it is easy to guess, these two parameters are interrelated and determine how intensive the air flow will be and consequently how big the room can be served by the chosen model. But structurally different models can have different outputs even with the same power. The instructions concerning the recommended area of the room, as a rule, are contained in the instruction manual to the device. Having studied it, it will not be a big problem to understand whether the selected model can cope with the task.
This parameter is directly connected to the capacity of the device. In the general case a more powerful fan will create more noise (but this is not certain). Therefore it is not superfluous to get acquainted with the instruction manual, where you can see the maximum possible noise level for the chosen device. This parameter becomes especially important if you intend to use the fan in the bedroom or children’s room.
Unfortunately, the fan may generate additional noise, caused, for example, by unwanted vibrations. It is almost impossible to predict their presence, so it is highly desirable to see and listen to the device in operation still in the store. It’s true that the background noise in a shopping mall does not always allow you to adequately assess the noise level of an individual device. But it’s better than nothing.
Also note that the passport of the product may indicate the noise level calculated for the minimum power (minimum speed of rotation of the blades). With this simple trick the manufacturer can present your product in a better light. Finally, it is not uncommon for a cheap model to start making noise not immediately, but after a few months of operation. No one is safe from such situations, and you can only rely on the reputation of the brand and feedback from users who have purchased the model you are interested in before.
The fan can be controlled by mechanical (cheaper) or electronic (more expensive) units. Many modern models are equipped with a remote control, and the most high-tech fans even allow controlling them with a smartphone.
The control panel can consist of one or more buttons, as well as have a backlight, digital display, timer, room temperature indicator, etc. д.
The control system of a good fan allows you not only to select the appropriate power, but also to set the mode of rotation, turning on or off at a given interval (or on a schedule), as well as additional modes (for example, some fans can be found mixed mode, which simulates the occasional wind blowing).
When selecting a fan it is not superfluous to check how well the unit is designed. A good fan must be stable (especially true for apartments that have small children or pets). It is good if the fan allows for height and speed adjustments. Large and wide blades provide less noise than smaller units with smaller blades.
Plastic blades will make less noise than metal ones (although some people prefer fans with metal blades for reasons of reliability and prestige).
The blade guard must be tough (won’t bend on impact) and have a fine mesh surface so children can’t stick their fingers through.
Many manufacturers add additional functions to their fans, the advisability of which we leave to the discretion of the buyer. Fans can combine the functions of an air ioniser or humidifier, room aromatiser or heater. Some models have a backlight that allows you to use the fan as a night light. The ceiling models are often equipped with a fairly powerful light fixture or even a chandelier.
So, let’s determine what parameters you need to pay attention to when choosing a household fan.
Faults of floor fans and table fans come in 2 types. mechanical and electrical. It is the first ones that the average man does not pay much attention to, but this leads to a breakdown in the electrical part of the device. For example, if the shaft is jammed and the equipment continues to run, it will undoubtedly cause overheating of the electric motor. If the bearing becomes loose, the stator winding will be damaged in the future.
Before diagnosing the fan at home, disconnect the device from the power supply. The unit often does not turn on due to a faulty cord or socket, so the first thing to connect any other device to the power unit. If it does not turn on, then the culprit is a socket, which must be repaired.
To inspect the interior of the fan, disassemble it by following the steps below:
- Remove the main rim.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the protective grid and remove the front of the grid.
- Disconnect the propeller and blades. Feature. in fans, the propeller is attached by a nut with a left-hand thread, which is screwed to the shaft of the electric motor. Therefore, unscrew fasteners clockwise and screw them in reverse.
- Remove the protective mesh at the back by unscrewing the nut.
- Remove 4 screws.
- Remove all fasteners from the motor shroud and remove the panel. Do not forget about the bolt on the knob that regulates the rotation of the housing. Failure to do so will not allow access to the motor.
- Remove the plug from the back of the unit.
- Remove the screw.
- Access to the motor is open.
Since breakdowns are often associated with a lack of lubrication, be sure to drop a few drops of industrial oil on the sleeve.
Turn the shaft first to one side and then to the other so that the lubricant can be absorbed more easily. After that, reassemble the fan in the opposite direction, turn on the device and check for function.
To see how to disassemble the fan and diagnose the problem, see this video
To detect malfunctions in the mechanical part of the fan unit, pay attention to the following manifestations:
- Unusual noises (noises, whistles, squeaks, etc.). п.);
- Slow rotation speed of the blades during operation;
- Difficulty turning the propeller when the fan is off.
An electrical malfunction is manifested by the following signs:
- smell of burning;
- inability to start the unit;
- slowing down of the propeller mechanism speed when the unit is on;
- operation of the circuit breakers (if provided).
I was too lazy to write this material in the summer, but nevertheless it will be useful for the next “shitty winter” ))) Despite the fact. The summer is over, but the long heat, which annoyed us in all senses, many will remember for a long time. I’ve already written a few recipes I used to save myself from the heat. but the most popular remedy that occupied all the tops of hit parades in hardware and household appliance stores became a fan and an air conditioner. When the weathermen became something closer to God for a couple of months, we all rushed to buy fans and that mass of plastic buzzing blades blew our sweaty, exhausted bodies all day long. Someone was more lucky and had not one but two fans that surely aroused wild envy of those who had a fan only to see the price tag on the empty counter. But one way or another any mechanical equipment sooner or later breaks down to which includes a desktop and floor “rotisserie. Especially often fans broke down in people’s heat when they were working tirelessly 25 hours a day. Many people are simply stupidly threw their rescuers to the dump or put in the hallway for the simple reason “when you plug a fan into the outlet it doesn‘t spin or spins very slowly, making a buzzing sound and emitting a smell”. I also encountered this problem when I had a fan that stopped. Since fans are in short supply in stores, and we want air all the time, I started to fix the fan and at the same time decided to get to the bottom of the problem of fan failure.Despite the fact that fans can be floor-standing or table-top, the difference in construction between them is no more than between a fork and a spoon. So whoever understands how I took my floor fan apart will probably understand how to take my desktop fan apart.So, move closer to the monitor, Uncle Chinilkin begins his briefing. We take and put a fan next to it, and put a screwdriver, pliers, a cotton rag and an oil can nearby. If you do not know how to use these things, then invite your daddy or mommy to the monitor.Removing the protective mesh from the fan. by opening the three latches.Unscrew the plastic nut counterclockwise. When screwing it back in, don’t use too much force so as not to break it. You can’t buy a spare anywhere!Now easily remove the impeller from the motor shaft. Again, be careful because the plastic the impeller is made of will eventually dry out and crumble. You’ll break the seat. you will twist with the tape, winding it in a place of a landing on a shaft to restore somehow the transmission of rotation.Having removed the impeller, unscrew a plastic sprocket nut which fastens the back grill to the case.Now unscrew all the screws from the front of the housing. Sometimes screws don’t come out easily, but don’t work too hard with the screwdriver or you will bite the threads in the plastic.Remove the screw from the back of the housing which actually fastens the housing cover.Now when the cover is off you see that the main part of your actuator consists of two things: the motor itself, which is made of metal fortunately, and the swivel gearbox, which is made of plastic. This reducer consists of a worm gear and a sprocket which will turn your fan left and right when running. There is a condenser attached to the gearbox on a small screw so that the fan motor can start.Fasten the 3 screws (or screws). The screws that hold the gear flange to the motor and carefully remove the plastic casing on the gearbox. In the picture you can see the back shank of the shaft with the worm that the gear mechanism engages with. By the way, anyone interested can unscrew the other 3 screws on the gearbox and look inside and find that the mechanism there is all plastic and greased with thick grease.Now it is the turn to unscrew the 4 screws that connect the two halves of the motor housing with the stator. Put the screws and screws in the jar so you don’t have to look for them under the table or the sofa later.Slowly pull off the back wall of the engine, if necessary scrolling it along the axis of the engine.Do the same with the front cover. Note that there is also a rubber gasket on the shaft, which is important to keep. But for now you need to pull it off the shaft and put it in the same jar.Take the covers in your hands and first remove all the dirt in the bearing unit with a rag. You can wrap a cloth around a thin rod to guide it through the hole. After that, degrease everything with acetone or gasoline. again wipe dry and drip from the oil can into the bearing (holes in the center of the cap). Use only liquid grease! No lithol, solidol, etc.д.! The grease will get caked (get sooty) on the shaft in a couple of days of continuous use in the heat and you’ll be back to disassembling your cooler.Now about the most important thing. the cause of the engine jamming. The main cause of the fans jamming, t.е. The main reason of failure is the thick grease, which is in the gearbox and on the shaft of the rear engine shank. During operation, the grease is carried along the shaft in the bearing and there is a sludge build-up, which over time becomes larger and the engine clogs. It is necessary to wipe off all the grease from the shaft shank and in the gearbox itself on the part that will be meshing with this shaft! Be sure to! There’s no point in greasing a plastic gearbox until it’s made of metal.Reassemble everything in reverse order as the Chinese did before you.If the picture is too small, click on it to see a bigger one.
If I helped you to save time and money and teach you something, do some nice scribbles in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. On SIM Uncle Chinilkin says goodbye to you until the next time.
Floor fan stopped spinning, how to fix it?
In the photo with the shaft, you can see the aluminum grooves at one edge around the circumference. is it supposed to be like this?Removed the pivot block, it didn’t helpThe shaft is hard to turn when the motor is assembled, problematic to turn specifically when the shaft is inside the windings
I have something similar in my kitchen window paneIt’s actually here http://www.mastercity.ru/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=80230d=1243139768странный моторчик. not a collector, not a capacitor.how it works. It looks like a single-phase asynchronous motor without a starter winding, but it starts by itself and the torque is considerable.
well, and i wanted a 12 volt (you know, used to be in soviet cars and buses, all-metal, tin blades and protective grille).but I couldn’t find it (Doesn‘t anyone have it?? really need it) I wonder what kind of power it has?It blows harder than the plastic ones you buy.
AZUS6: I have something similar in the kitchen window sash and here it is it is a motor of a magnetron cooling fan from a microwave oven-about 2800-2950 revolutions (at50Hz) blows well and some of them are weakly noisy-I have a dozen of them from oven disassembly also suyu in hoods-principle of operation described by me on the previous page motors of this type are initially strongly heated and therefore are wound by heat-resistant enamel wire usually classF that allows to put the motor inside the screen of a refrigerated lamp motor withstands the wedge of the rotor for tens of minutes. at the wedge in the clock can melt the coil but the motor is still alive, it is necessary to remove the wedge and wash the bearings to lubricate them, it will turn such a scheme did sovkovye motor-vent, but they were 4 pole and rotated 1450 revolutions and sovkovye PEV sustained only 105gr
Just by the looks of it. exactly the same motors are in the windshield wipers.
I know about the motors, but I am interested in the fan nozzle (done well)
This seems to be an old development, installed in all vehicleshttp://s005.radikal.ru/i211/1207/90/ec16cd7947d1.jpg there used to be these on the railroad, but a long time ago (photo from the 50’s)
I wonder why they were rejected.Is it because a metal screw can injure your finger??
AZUS6: I wonder why they were discarded.Is it because a metal screw can injure your finger?? Plastic is cheaper, lighter, more technologically advanced, can be molded into any shape and the stamped iron is limited in geometry by the coug! You can break a finger with a plastic screw! and the iron could cut it off
You need to grind the shaft on a grinding machine or use a file. and everything will work
I wouldn’t be grinding anything. First you need to find out why the rotor got scuffed. It could be a misalignment of the rotor or the magnets on the housing. Transverse misalignment can be due to bearing wear and is very difficult to treat (find new bushings, press in, etc).д.). If you drop the fan (which is possible) the magnets on the housing could be dislodged or the motor cover could be pressed in. You have to look for the cause and then treat it. Scrapes have to be sanded down but not much else.
Grinded it down but it did not help. Bushings on the motor outlet and inlet where the axle is. The bushings themselves can be, how should I say, rotated, tilted. That’s the way it’s supposed to be? the shaft is hard to rotate when the motor is assembled, it is difficult to rotate when the shaft is inside the windings this is the way it should be. how many different motors i have taken apart, all the bushings were fixed, immobilemaybe i am mistaken, but there are no bearings, only bushings. i took apart a soviet table fan recently, there are only bushings without bearingsxxtp://s018.radikal.ru/i513/1207/30/bc967dc7a3f0.jpg. The insides of 1 block
THEDOGG: The bushings at the motor outlet and inlet where the axle. The bushings themselves can be turned and tilted. it is supposed to be like this? Maybe I am mistaken, but there are no bearings, only bushings,
Shyk you and the engine is normal, I mean, with self-centering bearings, maybe even an alloy decent (bushes et is a friction bearings (with balls. It’s rolling.)
I can’t read it all. Sorry about that.Well, what are you braking or not spinning??Every single piece in every bearing does not grind? (a cap put on one axis.It rotates all right?)If in each normally does not grind, and grinds only when assembled, then probably violated the alignment when assembled, then and as above wrote musor. Like, “a mallet in your hand.”
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Review: Homeclub FS-1603 Floor Fan. Spins, spins, blows air. our fan is playing tricks on us.
Rarely do things disappoint. However, had to deal with this. Which is what this review will be about.
In the hot summer we want to sit on the beach, feel the breeze mixed with sea moisture, relax and think about nothing.However, the manufacturers do not always allow to do such a thing. There’s no way to relax with them.
Far away from the sea, a short walk to the store.
It’s a good choice. Grabbed what was cheaper, and hurry to the cash register, and then fly home on the wings of a fan.
But, no need to print in the store the package at once. Check if everything is in place. However, stingy as a child, walks forever with a bouquet of disappointments.
You can see all of the fan’s specifications on its packaging.
The main core. We take it as a base.
You can see the slots in the pad.These through holes have a special purpose.They are located at the bottom of the rod.
The upper part has a cap, which is held in place by a thread. Screwing it, we fasten the top post.
The instructions are in Russian and are accompanied by explanatory drawings and diagrams.
The legs are made in the form of a cross. This is where our fan is placed.
The screws (there were four of them in the set) are used to fasten the base of the rod to the legs.
It comes with four legs as well. Which is a big plus. Rubber round caps prevent scratches on the floor when moving (moving).Feet are inserted into the ends of the crossbody.
Protective nets have a large diameter and a special purpose to keep your hands away from the rotating parts of the fan.
If the length of electrical wire is not enough, you can use the Extension cord of Era. Want to measure the boom length? Buy an extension cord.
The impeller is plastic. Reminds the appearance and configuration of a submarine propeller, which in all ships is always in the underwater position.
Inside the round base turned out to be a rack. It can be pulled out to a convenient height and thus can be adjusted.
The control panel has many levers, buttons and pivoting devices. They all have their functions which can be found in the manual.Only three speeds (no back speed).
From the first glance, the fan looks good.
But it has a number of significant drawbacks.
As it turned out there is nothing to fix the lid, because there are no screws for it in the package.
And the nets themselves don’t fit together smoothly.
The planks of the legs have defects in concavity and distortion. And, judging by the subsequent painting, it’s an original factory defect. It is very difficult to restore them to their former appearance (without damaging the paint).
Inside the legs there are traces of rust from many years. And this is from a just bought item.
There are models of fans with bases, made on a round base. The same fan has feet that stick out in different directions. Moving around the room, you are constantly bumping into them.
In order to protect feet from injury on the legs of the fan, it is better to wear special protective boots with metallic heel in the apartment ZapadBaltObuv. what we need rain, what we need heat.
From the disadvantages we would like to pay attention to the control buttons. They jam, the round lever makes an unpleasant squeaking when switching on or switching modes.
If the fan did not work at all, you could safely give it a “D”. And since it still rotates and winds, it deserves a miserable “C” minus.
Why is the fan humming but not spinning??
Your little helper begins to hum and emit an unpleasant odor when you turn it on? Another frequent fan failure is the blades that do not spin. Why it happens when yesterday the appliance was working properly? Unfortunately, this is a problem faced by many users, especially when actively using the device. Today we’ll deal with why the fan hums, but does not spin?
If the floor fan does not turn on and the external inspection is not successful, you will have to unscrew the device. For this, prepare in advance a screwdriver and pliers. By the way, this method is suitable for those who are concerned about the question of why the floor fan slowly unwinds. Reanimation of the device is carried out in a few steps:
Remove the grid that covers the fan blades. As a rule, the grid is fixed with three latches.
Next remove the impeller. It is fixed with a plastic nut. It has to be unscrewed. Be careful not to damage any parts. Otherwise you’ll have to come up with an alternative to the nut. By the way, also carefully remove the impeller. Plastics on inexpensive fans rapidly deteriorate under the influence of heat and air. The impeller can crumble right in your hands as a result.
Now you need to disassemble the case. First remove the nut fixing the rear grill. Then gradually remove the screws, first from the front and then from the back of the fan.
Once you have reached the hood of the device, you can remove it. You will see the motor and gearbox. The last part is made of plastic. The condenser is attached to it. It is necessary to start the motor in operation.
The next step is to remove the gearbox. There are a few screws that hold it in place. After unscrewing them, you can easily remove the gearbox with all the stuffing.
Next, remove the screws that connect the motor housing with the stator. Now we can remove the front and the back of the box. You will come across rubbers as you go, put them in a separate container. You can also put the small screws in there.
Now we can start to clean the bearing itself and the surface around it. Remove the dirt with an ordinary cloth. Then you need to degrease the surface, acetone is suitable, and wipe everything dry. In the center of the bearing it is necessary to drop from an oil can.
In this way you remove the thick grease that penetrates into the engine. As a result it becomes jammed and the fan blades stop rotating. The process described above can be repeated for the tabletop unit, since they are designed the same way.
Possible breakdowns of Timberk fans
Timberk company fans have established themselves as inexpensive and easy-to-use devices to create comfortable climatic conditions, to maintain the air exchange in the apartment or office. Despite their good quality, they are prone to breakages.
The following faults have been noticed by the customers during operation:
- blowing power decrease because of soft plastic blades;
- There are cases when the condenser fails;
- appearance of extraneous noise during operation;
- breakage of electric motor;
- the rotor breaks;
- high backlash;
- Burning oil smell during long run;. Blowing power loss due to soft plastic blade;. Rotor failure due to low airflow;
- the legs bend and change the geometry under the weight of the motor;
- overheating of the power unit;
- mechanical breakage at fixing points.
According to the price-quality ratio the Timberk products are leaders in their segment. All devices have a manufacturer’s warranty and can be replaced upon request.
No function when plugged in
The first failure, which we will consider. does not react when you turn on the power and setting the buttons of the working mode.
Accordingly, the first thing we’ll do is check the integrity of the power cord, to see if there are any hard kinks in it somewhere or if there are any squeezes?
Pay particular attention to the condition of the cord just before it enters the plug and on the opposite side before it enters the housing. these are the places where it is most likely to be damaged.
If you find a broken cord, it should be replaced completely, or if the damage is in the inlet of the plug, the cord can be cut and replaced with a new plug.
If the cord is intact, consider the possibility of a blown fuse or a problem in the control box. Now for further repair you will need a screwdriver and a multimeter.
It is necessary to unscrew the fixing screws from the back of the device to open it.
When opening the unit and carrying out further operations, remember to disconnect it from the mains and switch it on as necessary, do not touch moving and electrically conductive parts with your hands or with a non-insulated tool!
Using a multimeter, test the main elements of the circuit: thermostat, thermal switch, thermal fuses. One fuse is immediately visible. To access the second fuse, you will need to remove the fan.
If diagnosis reveals a faulty fuse, it should be replaced. The old one is simply bitten off and a new one, with the same characteristics, is installed in its place with a soldering iron.
It is unacceptable to install any other construction (bugs, wires) instead of the fuse!
Fuses ensure the fire safety of the heater, if not replaced correctly you will make the unit unacceptable!
If the problem is not in the fuses but in the control unit, you can find the diagram in the enclosed manual to help you.
Troubleshooting when repairing a domestic fan
Before you start your own repair you need to study the circuit diagram of the device. As a rule, an asynchronous motor consisting of eight windings (operating and starting) is installed in a floor fan. For a successful start-up, a phase shift of 90 degrees is necessary. A condenser is installed for these purposes. The device starts to work after the button is pressed, after which the indication light comes on and the motor starts, the rotation speed of which depends on the winding inclusion scheme, for which the 3-speed switch with mechanical interlocking of simultaneous inclusion of several buttons is responsible, which can cause the occurrence of short circuits.
Before you start checking the electric motor:
- Immediately check that the power cord to the power outlet is in good condition. To do this, you must first disassemble the switch block, and then with observance of electrical safety measures multimeter check the presence of 220 volts on the contacts of the light bulb.
- Check the condition of the condenser according to this manual.
- Probe for integrity and check the reliability of all contacts of wires and connections in a chain. Ringing instruction.
- If you hear a hum or noise when the fan is running, then lubricate the plastic parts inside the gearbox with Lithol or Solidol through the holes that are specially provided for this purpose.
- Check for 220 volts at the output of the on/off switch.
Repair of the floor fan with your own hands. All the reasons why it doesn‘t spin and how to disassemble.
In the hottest summer days, the only salvation from the wearying heat is an ordinary floor fan.
Not everybody can afford full-fledged split system or even mobile conditioner.
But unfortunately, even this inexpensive and affordable fan occasionally breaks down. Particularly Chinese models fly like sunflower seeds.
And there are an overwhelming majority of them on our market. What to do if the fan stops rotating and working? What are its main shortcomings and why it breaks?
In total it is possible to allocate 5 main reasons of failure of floor fans:
The main problem of cheap models, which for some reason not many people pay attention to. The wrong casting of the blades. Because of this there is imbalance, broken bearings, increased clearances.
You can not influence it, since you have already bought the fan with this initial defect. Sometimes it seems to work, the impeller rotates normally, but it does not blow.
That is, there is no cooling air flow from it. Why does this happen??
Because of the wrong angle of attack of the blades. Its lobes are deformed and are driving the airflow in a circle, instead of throwing it outward.
This effect can appear over time, after the fan for a long time stood in the direct sunlight and its impeller heated up, began to gradually change its shape.
This can only be cured by replacing the impeller with a new one.
The most common problem is grease drying up or lack of it. The fan starts to jam, loses speed and as a consequence, the load on the engine increases. The blower no longer operates at its full power.
The engine, wound with a thin wire of 0.2 mm begins to warm up and gradually burn out the windings.
How to detect such a defect? In this case, the fan stops rotating. It hums, but the impeller does not spin.
And it also happens that it starts only in the 3rd speed, and does not react to the first two at all. It simply lacks the power to turn the shaft.
In order to start it, you have to spin the blades impudently, like on old planes.
By the way, the same symptom can be when the starting capacitor is damaged. How do you know without instrumentation, which cause is to blame for the breakdown?
To do this, you must at least get to the motor shaft by removing the protective shroud and blades. If the shaft rotates by hand with great difficulty, then blame dirt and dried grease.
And if it rotates easily and has inertia, most likely the capacitor is dead. Symptom. After plugging in the fan and it doesn‘t spin. You crank the engine and it will start.
If you hold the blades of the fan with your hand while running, it can stop again. Check the capacitor with a multimeter, if it has the appropriate scale for measuring capacity.
To replace it, look for a new one with the same parameters as on the housing of the old one.
By the way, not completely dried out condenser also affects rpm. If you notice that they have dropped and the fan is spinning slower, that’s a bell to check it.
The problem of a stiff rotation can be solved by new bearing grease. Here, so-called slide bearings are used. Some people call them bushings.
It is expensive to use balls in such constructions, and they rattle a lot with time. There is no need to dismantle the entire motor for repairs. It is enough to loosen a few screws and spray in the right places with a universal spray WD40.
How do you get to the bushings without removing the motor?? First, unscrew the central screw on the back of the protective housing.
There’s another screw hidden in the adjusting button lever to turn or stop the fan head.
After that, the back cover is easily removed from its place. What’s underneath? Here you can see the swivel gearbox that gives the whole head rotation.
At the bottom there is a special rod.
The starting capacitor of the engine is mounted on top.
By the way, notice that in different models it may not be there. In this case look for it near gear buttons.
You will need to remove the gearbox to access the motor bearing. It is attached to three screws and underneath it is supported by a rod.
You unscrew the screws and disconnect the rod. After that the gearbox is removed from the shaft and you get access to the rear bushing.
No need to unscrew or disassemble anything else. The WD40 will do the rest.
You put a narrow tube of WD40 on the bottle and spray it several times in the gap between the shaft and the bearing.
After spraying it with WD40, turn the shaft by hand in different directions and move it back and forth a little.
Excessive grease, debris and dust will slowly come out. This excess dirt is easily removed with cotton swabs.
If you have a thick grease like Tsiatim or Lithol, it is advisable to apply it to the gear worm. After these cleaning procedures, you drop a few drops of sewing machine oil on the outside of the bearing.
Just don’t apply it too much. Otherwise it spreads over all the places and the dust sticks to it and turns back into dirt. You will end up with a wedge and a fan rotation problem again.
Some models have felt washers near the bushings. They are impregnated with oil and when heated, the oil flows onto the shaft, lubricating it.
Reassemble everything in reverse order. Traction. the three screws of the gearbox. outer cover.
By the way if you tighten the central screw on the rear cover too much, and it is a screw, not a screw, it can go through the plastic of the swivel gear and bump into the shaft.
With the rear bearing done, move on to the front of the fan. There’s a protective cap in the center.
It can be unscrewed. clockwise, since the thread here is left.
Dismount it and remove the propeller from the shaft. You get access to the front slide bearing already.
The principle here is the same. First squeeze out and soften the old grease and dirt with vaedyshka, then apply new grease.
After that, put the propeller back on and close the lid. When you have finished, turn on the fan at high rpm and leave it running for a few minutes and then turn it to the desired speed.
If the damage is more complicated and the simple lubrication does not help, you have to take apart the fan in detail.
First do all the disassembly machinations as above. After you have removed the propeller unscrew plastic front locknut which is located right behind it and take off the whole protective frame.
In your hands you have the motor itself and the leg, which holds the power wires and pushbutton mechanism.
Disassemble this leg by removing the 6 tapping screws.
First of all you have to check the soldering of the wires. It is possible that one or more of them fell off or burned out.
Floor fan fix
If everything is intact, how do you know which wire goes where and what it does?? Start checking with the two wires from the power plug.
One of them, let it be black (as on the photo below), through the light bulb goes directly to the fan motor.
The second wire goes to the bottom of the dial switch (button 0).
Further, by pressing the appropriate buttons. 1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, some of the contacts on the switch are closed and so the speed of the motor is changed.
Each wire from these buttons goes to a different terminal on the winding, with more or fewer turns. By putting voltage on them, you make the propeller go faster or slower.
A simplified windblower circuit looks like this.
Typical diagrams of most inexpensive 3 speed floor fans are about this:
Pressing of each button is followed by closing of the contact group.
The other contact group opens at that moment.
Sometimes these contacts burn out or do not reach their plate. Then you lose one of the speeds.
All this is checked elementary a Chinese multimeter, in a mode of chain checker.
If you break the very first wire or no contact on it, the fan motor simply will not start. So if the fan’s not working at all, check it first.
If of course you have checked before that the plug itself and the power cord from it are serviceable. This is also called a tester.
Place one end of the probe on the plug pin, and touch the other end to the contact pad on the “0” button. If correct, there should be zero resistance.
Then you can check the wires on all speeds in the same way. One probe on the plug. the other feeler gauge on the lead from the corresponding speed button to the motor.
If there are zeros everywhere, then your switch and wires are working.
Next, check the second contact on the plug and the wire that goes directly past the switch to the motor. Make sure you have an intact cord here, too.
Only then can you check the windings of the motor itself.
Using a multimeter, set the resistance to 2000 ohms. Next, so as not to bite out the wire anywhere, at the point where the capacitor is connected, strip a little insulation.
Look for a common point in the circuit, as in the diagram below.
When you find it, call the resistance of the winding. To do this, touch the contacts on the switch one by one with the second probe.
Approximate resistance values of the fan windings may be as follows:
Certainly, it can slightly differ from model to model, but it is most important that there is no breakage or short circuit. Measurements can show as a few hundred ohms, as well as a little more than 1 kOhm.
It depends on the fan power and wire size.
The resistance between the leads of the windings will be less. 100-200 Ohm.
Also check the capacitor winding and the total resistance of all windings combined.
Here is the most competent and complete video on how to check the health of the fan windings with a multimeter.
If checking the integrity of the windings does not reveal any deviations or defects, go to the next step. To do this you completely disassemble the fan, so to speak, to its bones.
First you need to free the motor from all plastic parts. Unscrew the 4 screws from the front side and remove the cover.
On newer models, besides screws, there are also latches. You have to bend it with a screwdriver.
To disconnect the leg, you need to find another screw, which is usually hidden under the plug.
Loosen it and pull out the mounting shaft. To disassemble the wires that go through the leg, they need to be bitten out or soldered from the terminals on the speed buttons.
At the same time write down or sketch which one is initially connected.
As a result you should have in your hands a bare fan motor without anything else.
Taking it apart. Unscrew the screws that tighten the back cover.
Before disassembly, be sure to mark on all covers and hardware how it was originally assembled.
Otherwise, you’ll lose the alignment after mating it incorrectly. There will be problems with the shaft jamming and the rotation of the blades.
By removing the bearing you get to the windings themselves. Amongst the bunch of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermostat.
Very often a motor will stop working after it burns out. This relay should trip and open the circuit when the temperature of the windings is 135-145 degrees.
After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. Well, sometimes it burns out completely and actually plays the role of a fuse.
If your fan often shuts off and starts again independently, it is this protection is to blame. Know that it doesn‘t just go off. It means that either the shaft is jammed or the windings are overheated.
Overheating the windings can be caused by the breakdown of a small impeller that sits on the shaft inside the motor itself. It is designed to blow and reduce the temperature of the windings.
In the cheapest models there is no temperature sensor-relay, everything is connected directly. On that basis, if your “thermal fuse” burned out, you can of course bypass it and start the windblower. But you’re left with no fire protection.
There should be a wire chain between its legs.
If all parts and relays inside are intact, it remains to look carefully through a magnifying glass at the winding, shaft and rotor. You may see torn or nicked copper wires.
It happens when the bearing pops out of its seat and the rotor hits the windings.
With modern Chinese floor fans, it’s quite common for the screw joint between the two halves of the motor to come loose. Do not forget that the shaft is dressed on both sides by self-aligning copper-graphite bushes, which are tightly locked in the covers.
When assembling and tightening them, you can lightly tap the transformer iron itself with a hammer so that the shaft rotates easily, with little inertia. Some people try to catch the center on their own and make a silent horror like this.
Eventually the shaft falls out of the bearing, resulting in a wedge. As a consequence, the rotor begins to scratch the windings and its surface.
Also keep in mind that if your fan fell and then stopped working and rotating, it is likely that the bushings are misaligned. Nothing else can break from such a fall.
The capacitor won’t be damaged, the windings won’t break. Unless some of the buttons have come loose. But first, check the bearings for alignment. And then everything will work as it should.
Unfortunately you can’t cope with mechanical defects of the windings or the rotor or with short circuits inside the windings. It is not rational to rewind the motors of cheap wind blowers.
However, this is the last stage of the check, and there is hope that you will not get to it, having found the damage somewhere else, by the methods discussed above.
Motor Faults. Find out why the motor fails?
Every year, gasoline engines are increasingly being superseded by electric motors, installed on a new type of car called electric cars. But like internal combustion engines, electric powertrains can also break down, causing problems with the functioning of the vehicle. The bulk of malfunctions of the electric motor occurs due to heavy wear of the mechanism parts and aging materials, which is reinforced by improper operation of such a car. Causes of the characteristic problems can be numerous, and some of the most common we will now tell you.
The first type is mainly used for motors of continuous starting and running. Joint connection is used for starting high-power motors. Three-phase electric motor connection diagram per volt is also used. There are many kinds of motors, but for all of them the main characteristic is the voltage supplied to the mechanisms and the power of the motors. High starting currents act on the motor when connected to c, reducing its service life. To switch from an electric motor wiring diagram to there are several options, each with different advantages and disadvantages
It is very important to understand how to connect a three-phase electric motor to a c
Electric motors, like all mechanisms, are subject to wear and tear, and in their operation there are often malfunctions, breakdowns or operation with parameters different from the nominal values. Since in the electric motor electricity is converted into mechanical energy, it is obvious that malfunctions of electric motors can be caused by failures in electrical and electromagnetic systems, as well as defects in the mechanisms. Electrical faults are divided into internal. faults in the motor windings and collector contacts, and external. faults in the starter components and power leads. There are many algorithms for checking electric motors depending on their design, type, size, weight, location and current mode of operation.
Design of a typical floor fan
On the agenda repair of the floor fan with their own hands! Small things are a good place to start: The simplest fans do not have an earthing terminal. The unit has no electrical safety rating. The floor fan includes a housing made of plastic. If water gets inside, expect a good shaking. A floor fan of this variety should not be used near water. Starting with an aquarium with fish to a flower vase. Particularly dangerous where small children live. If the thing falls down, the child will guess to pour milk inside You draw your own conclusions:
If a floor fan falls, with a high degree of probability nothing will happen. Let’s dive inside the construction. Let’s leave aside for the moment the peculiarities of the motor speed control and the button. Let’s talk about the gear. Krasnodar floor fan carries one asynchronous capacitor motor. The front side of the shaft through a pin, a nut with a left-hand thread is connected to the blades, the back side goes to the gearbox, formed by two gears, one double.
The shaft has a thread that catches the teeth of the big wheel as it rotates. The torque is transmitted to the small wheel that drives the flywheel. Crank pinion is hand-diameter, so the rotation is inferior to the speed of the original induction motor shaft.
The crank is hooked to the foot via a driveline, the motor housing is mounted on an axle. As the induction motor shaft rotates, the blades move smoothly to one side or the other. But it is possible to stop the process. In the double pinion, the shaft is attached to the larger pinion by two balls with a spring inserted in a through hole. If you pull the regulator handle directly connected to the axle, the latch slips up. Connection between pinion, shaft is lost, rotation stops. The mechanism implements a fall protection: six grooves are cut along the inner seat of the drive pinion. Accommodates the balls. Six positions are obtained, the mutual transition is accompanied by clicking, the axis rotates relative to the pinion, the balls hit the walls slipping into the grooves.
Sounds of clicks are heard, high probability floor fan has fallen. Drive jammed, safety mechanism operates, snapping, preventing the motor from burning.
We find it disadvantageous for the floor fan, if the device is not switched off, the thermal fuse of the motor will definitely break. Gearbox is fastened with three bolts to the motor, cut with a couple of lubrication holes through which you can grease the plastic gears. Applies to the drive one, rotating at the speed of an induction motor.
The headache of how to repair a floor fan and reassemble. We see the layout: wrong mutual position of the reducer, the feet through the gear, the head of the floor fan will move asymmetrically relative to the front plane. Could be annoying. Attach the reducer, test the product by connecting the power. Careful not to electrocute, try to visually determine if the assembly is correct.
Why isn’t the heater heating troubleshooting
If suddenly the heater has stopped working and the network connection indicator is not lit, then first of all it is necessary to check the presence of supply voltage in the electrical outlet. Could work circuit breaker at the input of electric wiring in an apartment, the contact at the place of connection of wires to a socket breaks or electric socket break down itself.
There are two ways to check if the socket is working, you can plug in any electrical appliance, such as a desk lamp or hair dryer, which is preferable. Or connect the heater to a different outlet. If the heater starts to heat, it means that the socket is defective.
If the problem is the heater, it is possible that it overheated, and worked its system of protection against overheating, or plugged in the socket, but forgot to turn the switch on the body of the heater or set in the right position the temperature knob (if available). So before jumping to conclusions, you need to check what position the switches are in and wait for the heater to cool down.
If all the checks are unsuccessful, then the heater is out of order and needs to be repaired.