How much chamotte brick on the fireplace

A Swedish fireplace stove with a fireclay core

The design, known as the Swedish fireplace stove and sometimes referred to in sources as “counterflow”, which is somehow not quite correct, is a relatively recent development. mid-twentieth century. Which did not prevent it from becoming one of the world’s most popular heating furnaces. Which can be easily explained by the simplicity and versatility of design.

Fireplace and heat-intensive stove, for all their close kinship, in essence, very dissimilar designs, capable of solving different problems.

The stove is inert and relatively long heats up, but then and long gives the heat to the heated room.

Fireplace perfectly ventilates and dries the room, starts to heat immediately after ignition of fuel, but it is too low efficiency and is not able to create a comfortable temperature in the room, because they are unable to accumulate heat.

Brick fireplace construction | Episode 6: Completed firebox and smoke chamber

The idea to combine the pros and cons of these systems emerged a long time ago, but the principle of their work is so different that such integration did not go smoothly. In the end, it always turned out that the two different designs are simply combined in one body (or, if you prefer, an array), why stoves-fireplaces have two different fuel pots, operating independently. And it’s hard to call such hybrids compact. In the end we have the Swedish fireplace stove with the following furnace layout.

The site has already shown a similar furnace layout, but it was not selected heat core, which is why readers have encountered difficulties with masonry firebox with fireclay lining.

For a professional there is not much of a problem. He understands that it is enough to perform the thermal core of chamotte independently, without coupling with the external heat accumulating loop. But here the inexperienced person, as it turned out, has difficulties. Therefore let’s try to analyze the laying of the stove with chamotte core and try to explain the structural differences with the stove built only from one type of brick.

First we need some explanations. The stove with a fireclay core is made a little higher. For a couple of rows. There is only one reason for this. it is necessary to cover the furnace so that the overlap does not rest on the fireclay core and it can expand independently.

In this case the binding of masonry will be changed a little. Because now the partition walls, separating the furnace ducts, cannot be tied to the furnace. Consequently, they will have to be connected to the outside walls of the furnace. And there are two solutions.

The first one is used more bricklayers. a three-quarter brick is put in a row on the corner. And many do not like this method because of the violation of the external masonry pattern. the binding of vertical joints is through a quarter of a brick, not half, as it is customary in traditional masonry (although this arrangement should be called “gothic”. this is a more accurate term). That’s why the so called “oblique binding” is shown. It is a little more troublesome to install, but it is visually inconspicuous.

Now about the changes in the dimensions of the original version. To calculate the height of the furnace described below is quite easy. With a normal stove seam (3-5mm) the row height will be 7cm (65mm 5mm). Accordingly, we simply multiply the number of rows by the same 7 cm and get the total height.

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It is not possible to reduce the height of the oven. Unless you choose a more compact door of the furnace and loaf chamber. Generally speaking, the size of the furnace determines most of the molding. Since the height and width of the furnace sets the dimensions of the door.

Actually, the choice is now in specialty stores quite large, but we still recommend buying a door of 50×50 or 50×60 cm. And one in which there is not only the main outer glass door, but also a smaller inner, cast in the form of a grid. This option is simply preferable in terms of fire safety.

the loafing chamber can be eliminated. Simply do not put the door. And instead we brick up the hole with bricks. And in the lining (heat core), and in the outer circuit.

If the dimensions of the room allow, the furnace can be increased in height by introducing additional rows in the furnace or that part of the structure located above the loaf chamber. But it is not necessary to get carried away. Otherwise you will have to increase the section of the chimney. The inside of the oven (its ducts) can be left unchanged when increasing the cross-section of the pipe to 2 bricks or 250×250 mm (in the rowing section of the pipe is one brick or 250×120 mm). To understand when it is necessary to increase the carrying capacity of the pipe is very simple.

The cross-section of the pipe depends on the power of the furnace. precisely, from the surface area radiating heat. Increasing the height of the furnace array, we thereby increase its active area. the size of the surface involved in the heat exchange.

Accordingly, after a certain limit will have to adjust the capacity of the chimney. This tabular data can be viewed on your own on the Internet, in specialized publications or on the website in the article on calculation of the furnace dimension.

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The height of the pipe (the minimum required for guaranteed operation of the oven appliance) is determined very simply. For a stove you need at least 3 meters, for a fireplace. 5 meters. Accordingly, for our construction we need the maximum 5 meters. Of course, as a heat-intensive furnace, the structure will be able to work with a three-meter pipe. But in the mode of the fireplace can be observed and failures.

In addition to chamotte and red corpulent ceramic bricks we will need oven casting (its volume is not difficult to understand from the furnace layout), as well as a binding wire. And, which greatly distinguishes this option from the stove from one kind of brick, you will definitely need non-combustible thermal insulator. They often recommend basalt cardboard or asbestos sheets. But there are nuances.

Asbestos is not so environmentally friendly, and basalt cardboard is simply not designed for such temperatures, and therefore simply sintered. And ceases to act as a thermal damper. So it’s better to use something based on kaolin. In specialized stores, such non-combustible heat insulator is usually referred to as silica fiber or wool.

You will additionally need stainless steel sheet and steel angle 2 or 45. You need stainless steel for installation of the firebox door and the loafing chamber door. Although often in stores there are ready-made installation tunnels for specific doors. And then it’s easier to use them than to make a wizard on your own.

Of course you can also fix the door in another way (with wire or spokes) but installing the door with the help of a tunnel is much safer. And the outer contour in the area of the door it protects from overheating much more reliably than more traditional methods. So it’s better to put the door with the tunnel sealed with silica wool around the perimeter.

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What are the benefits of this material?

Thanks to the ability of furnace bricks quickly heated, long keep the heat and gradually spread it around the house, they are not subject to destruction from sudden changes in temperature and for many years to maintain a warm and cozy atmosphere of the country house, country house, bath or sauna. And such qualities as strength and durability made stove bricks very popular and widespread material with a wide range of applications in various fields of construction.

  • in masonry of columnar and other types of foundations;
  • in the construction of walls of buildings, outbuildings and other structures;
  • For the construction of fences and posts for fences;
  • in the construction of partitions.

For the production of stove bricks special red-burning types of clay are used, which determines the color of the building material. In the production process the clay bricks are fired and pressed very tightly. That is why this building material gets higher fire resistance and strength.

Thus, the red stove bricks when heated can withstand very high temperatures (up to 1000-12000 ° C), while the red building bricks can not tolerate such heat, crumbles.

And the M-150 and M-200 solid bricks used for masonry hearths ensure that this building material is so strong that it can withstand a pressure load of 150-200 kg per cm².

How to calculate the number of bricks

The amount of this material depends on the size of the furnace-hollandka. If there is a finished project, it usually indicates the amount of building materials. Experienced specialists in the art of furnace also know how much material is required for a stove of this or that size. But if you plan to lay a hollandka with his own hands, there is a universal formula for calculating the number of bricks. Note that the number here is also calculated inaccurately, conventionally.

Calculate how many bricks are needed for the bottom row if they are laid flat. Then calculate how many rows are planned to lay in height, given that the height of one row is approximately 7 cm. Multiply these two figures and from the result subtract 1/3.

Let’s assume that the base of the oven is 3×4 bricks. It turns out that in the first continuous row will be laid 24 pieces. Then you must calculate the height of the future oven. If the height of the house inside from floor to ceiling is 2 m 40 cm, you must subtract from this number the height of the division. about 30 cm. That’s 2 m 10 cm. Given a row height of 7 cm you have 30 rows. Then subtract one third of that number. 30 divided by 3 is 10. Subtract 10 from 30 to get 20 rows. Then you have to multiply 20 with 24. It’s 480. For the cutting it takes about 50 bricks, so you end up with 530 bricks for a furnace like this.

The amount of material for the pipe is calculated separately. 1 pg. A m of pipe has about 14 rows. For example, one row of pipe has 6 bricks, multiply 6 by 14 and you get 84. This number of bricks is equal to 1 m of the pipe. Let’s say the length of the pipe is 4 m, then 84 times 4 is 336. Total: 336 pcs for the pipe.

The formula is pretty simple. Of course, the calculated amount of material is not accurate. But you can already estimate how many bricks will need to be purchased and how much it will cost.

Dutch oven has a simple design, small weight and will fit perfectly into a small room. It does not require large financial expenses. You can build a brick rocket stove for your summer cottage.

It heats quickly and can heat a room within a few hours after firing. However, this design has disadvantages. Its efficiency factor is about 40%, so it is difficult to heat houses with its help, where people live permanently. If the stove is not closed after heating, it will quickly cool down, it has a small heat capacity, so it often has to be heated. These properties make the Dutch oven the most suitable, economical option for heating the cottage, garden house and other premises where people do not live permanently.

Basic types of brick stoves

So, depending on the functions performed, brick furnaces in country houses are divided into the following basic types:

  • Heating furnaces. As is clear, such a device is designed exclusively for heating the air in the room. It can heat one room or an entire house if it’s built into a partition.
  • Cooking stoves. created for purely utilitarian purposes for cooking. Mushrooms, berries and fruit can also be dried on a brick-burning stove. These stoves are often installed in summer kitchens.
  • Cooking and heating stoves. A classic appliance that can not only heat a room or an entire house, but can also be used to cook food. Multifunctional multicooker with a solid history.

The centuries-old technology of building brick stoves allows you to create a highly efficient device that quickly heats the room, is safe to use and becomes the center of attraction of the entire house.

Build your own fireplace

A professional stove builder can build a quality corner fireplace that will work properly and look nice. But how does a beginner to do all the work independently? In this article I have decided to touch upon the important points that confront stove builders when building corner fireplaces.

I decided to describe in detail this particular model for several reasons. First, such a fireplace can be placed in rooms even with a small area. It can be erected in a small garden house, so that it was comfortable to stay in during the cold season.

Preliminary stage. calculations

Before starting independent work, you should decide on the size and shape of the fireplace. The first thing to do is to calculate the size of the firebox. This parameter depends on the size of the room. At a standard ceiling height, the area of the fireplace hole and the area of the room is a ratio of 1:50. For example, if the area of the room is 15 sq. м. area of the furnace 0.3 sq. м., and at 20 sq. м 0.4 sq.м.

Parameters of the furnace hole itself are calculated as follows:

1 the height of the firebox should be 1/3-2/3 less than the width;

2 the depth of the firebox in the lower part is taken equal to 2/3 of the portal height (for better heat output).

Following the above recommendations you can calculate the parameters of the firebox for your own case.

How to choose a place for a fireplace

A corner fireplace can stand in an interior or exterior corner of the house. But the location of the fireplace should be chosen based on where the chimney will exit through the slabs to the outside. The height of the chimney above the roof deck depends on the distance between the chimney and the ridge.

Necessary materials and fittings

  • normal brick.(300 pcs.)
  • Fire brick.(80 pcs)
  • Sand. It should be prepared for work. First, sift through a fine sieve (mesh size no more than 1.5 mm), and then soak several times in water. The water should be changed and stop soaking the sand when it becomes transparent. Thus, all the dust and debris will be removed from the sand.
  • Gravel for the foundation.
  • Reinforcement (for the reinforcement in the wall)
  • The blue clay to bind the masonry rows.
  • Portland cement.(2 bags)
  • Corners of steel.(3 pcs.)
  • Smoke damper.

Foundation structure

Furnace makers recommend building your own fireplace during the construction phase of the house. This is because the fireplace must have its own foundation, and therefore it is necessary to dismantle the floor and dig a pit. Without the pit, you can do only if the floor of the house is much higher than the ground. Then we only need to tamp the soil under the foundation. The parameters of the foundation are larger than the basement masonry row on each side by 5-6 cm. Excavation depth up to 70 cm.

Fireplace in the house

Where to start

Let’s take as a basis the fact that this object we can lay out in a private home. That is an undeniable point, and certainly if we live in an apartment, then it’s out of the question about such a part of the interior.

But for a country house fireplace is the real pleasure! And since we are going to do everything ourselves, we should immediately stipulate that our first fireplace will be laid in economy class, and we will try to minimize costs.

Let’s not hide that the first step is to find information about the proposed work. And, of course, we will need drawings of brick fireplaces. Still, for the first time most of us have very little idea about this construction, and it is limited to visual moments only.

The fireplace is not only part of the decor, but also heating

Important! Today in the market of construction materials you can find new technologies in the creation of a fireplace, but we, nevertheless, we will focus on the brick, and not so much as a tribute to conservatism, but the recognition of its extremely useful properties.

Preparing the material

In order to lay out a small brick fireplace, we will need about 500-600 pieces of bricks. We suggest using a double M 150 silicate brick. This is the most common building material, which is ideal for masonry fireplace and stove.

Next, we buy about 50 pieces of special fireproof bricks, without which the masonry is not possible. Many people prefer to lay bricks on simple cement mortar, but we still recommend using a special masonry mix. Given that this is our first experience, we will leave the simple mortar to professionals.

  • Magnesionglass sheet, 1.5 cm thick. This is a special material, fireproof.
  • A door for the fireplace.
  • For our project, a ready-made chimney made of sandwich panels of the right length, it is usually from 3 meters.
  • Stove tape, we glue the hardware on it, as the scheme of the brick fireplace shows.
  • Eight corners, of course, metal.
  • Chimney vent.

If you set your mind to it, to calculate

much, chamotte, brick, fireplace

Preparing the room

We can lay the fireplace at any time of the year, the work will still go indoors, the only difference is whether it is residential or non-residential. In the first case, buying bricks for the fireplace, and all the necessary materials, all this should be stored somewhere, so as not to breed dirt.

In general, just have to buy plastic film, and cover all the furniture and floors in the room with it.

Tip! Buying film, ask to give you the densest version of polyethylene. You have to work with brick, and it can have sharp chips, and polyethylene should not be easily damaged and torn.

The base of the fireplace

Whatever the drawings for a brick fireplace with their own hands, we must necessarily start with the foundation, and here is the first interesting point.

For example, if the house is old, or it is a light construction, a dacha, and does not have a strong foundation, then we must necessarily strengthen the base of our fireplace. Here you can simply pour the foundation under the entire structure, but you can also do a lighter version.

We simply put under the first row of metal corners of the fireplace, and between the bricks to leave a small gap in which to fill the screed.

much, chamotte, brick, fireplace

Important! To make the corner and bricks become a really powerful base of the fireplace, you can weld the metal parts to each other, then we will completely eliminate their displacement.

Next, pour the laid building bricks with a screed. Unlike conventional concreting, we do not use crushed stone in this screed. You can slightly strengthen the screed by changing the usual proportions of cement and sand, increasing the amount of cement.

We level the mortar with an ordinary plaster float. Let’s determine the tools that can be useful to us here:

  • Plain trowel.
  • A tape measure.
  • Construction level.
  • “angle grinder”, if the angle is not initially sawed to the right size.
  • The trowel.

First masonry

Any drawing of a brick fireplace contains in its schemes “podom”, or the first rows, that is how they are called in the terminology. Since it will be the first rows of masonry, then we will have special requirements for them.

It is important to measure the first row so that the base is a rectangle with the same diagonals.

Do not forget that we lay out a simple fireplace, which means that the duct will not be very long, and it will consist of:

Advice! All rows, that is, each row, be sure to lay the level. This is the only way to get the perfect proportions.

If the partition between the rooms is made of non-combustible material, then our fireplace will require a minimum level of thermal insulation. On one side we will already have fireclay, or refractory bricks, on the other side we just install basalt cardboard.

Firebox and door

Naturally, before installing the door, it is necessary to remove the glass. The door is selected on the basis of what was the design of the brick fireplace, but if we break, deform the glass during the work, it is an unnecessary expense.

Tip! The place for the door is left on the second row, and the joints in the masonry should be in the middle, not on the edges.

Choosing the materials

The strength and durability of the fireplace depends on the quality of the materials

Pay attention to the appearance of the bricks: cracks and chips are not allowed. They can be used only on the first row of the base

Sand and clay should not have foreign particles and lumps.

The main building materials for a brick fireplace are red and refractory bricks, clay and sand, cement M300, M400 (for the foundation). The outer layer is usually made of red bricks, the furnace and chimney. of refractory (fireclay).

Red bricks should be soaked in water before starting work.

This will prevent the absorption of moisture from the mortar and ensure the strength of the masonry. Readiness is determined simply: if air bubbles stop coming out of the bricks immersed in water, they can be put to work.

Fireclay yellow bricks are not subject to deformation, can withstand temperatures up to 1000. Slowly heats up, but then slowly cools down, retaining heat well. So it’s perfect for masonry interior parts of the fireplace.

One of the drawbacks, though, is that bricks can’t be cut into pieces because of their high strength. But manufacturers take this fact into account and produce bricks of various shapes: straight, wedge, trapezoidal, arched.

How many refractory bricks you need approximately on the fireplace where the furnace will be ?

How much refractory bricks you need about a fireplace where the furnace will be ? Size does not know exactly where the wood will burn an approximate amount


Find out the dimensions and calculate! And why do you need refractory bricks for a wood burning fireplace?? Buy a good quality red one and don’t sweat it!

You need 0 fire bricks for the fireplace and you can even have 10 less. He has no business being there. to the refractory one

What’s the use of refractory in a fireplace?? If you don’t heat with coal, of course.

Guys, chamotte fireboxes are made ideally on the mastic, do not bullshit, let you red hollow on the cement neighbor for a bottle, and a man of his ignorance do not confuse. Write to the stove group, they’ll tell you and tell you. There are a lot of masons who pretend to be stonemasons but don’t know a damn thing about it

Anastasia, I’m a sucker. i made it out of red bricks and it’s been standing for almost 30 years without burning through. Although I often heat with elm is the fireplace. not a stove ☝

Victor, well, let’s just say I believe in your decor fireplace with 30 years of experience

Anastasia, in fact, it is the only source of heat and burns regularly and the wood is so. ☝ the birch tree is shyly silent beside them ☝ and you have to believe in God. I have enough knowledge for the rest

Victor, that’s what I say, there should be knowledge and education

Victor, if the author is not a fool, he will order the project with the layout and calculation of materials from professional stove-setters

Anastasia, the author is a fool, it’s the same as saying please stop the bus somewhere here, and in response the stop will be somewhere else

Victor, and with a stationary barbecue, you can do this trick?

Sergey, without chamotte ? of course. Why does he need it there at all? ?

Sergey, what the hell temperature there. It’s not even convenient to forge steel. no supercharger

Victor, you should at least explain to the man that elm is the same as Karagach. Many people don’t understand it, please put a fireplace in the studio

Maxim, of course. elm tree. it’s a type of elm. but it is more difficult with a photo. it is not here. There’s nothing to take a picture of. my phone is a “brick

Victor, I’m burning pine and birch, sorry your phone is no good, maybe you should send it to me.

Maxim, why ? I am fine with this one. I don’t charge for a week. Someone will. I’ll take a picture then. although i need to look for old photos

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