SpeedFan setting. Adjusting the cooler
Here you get information about the SpeedFan settings and instructions on how to use the program. How to Increase or Decrease Cooler Speed.
At first you need to download the speedfan program and install it. You can see the detailed installation process here.
Now you need to enter your notebook or PC BIOS and disable automatic fan control. This will prevent possible conflicts between the application and the motherboard system environment.
After changing BIOS settings, you can start the program. It will scan your computer in seconds, looking for temperature sensors and coolers, and then show its main window. Where you can see many temperature readings for different components such as CPU, GPU and hard drives of Windows operating system (XP, 7, 8, 10, Vista).
Next, you need to click on the Configure button, which is located at the top right of the window. In the new window that appears click on the Options tab and make sure the settings are correct. That there is a checkmark Full speed of fans at exit. It will allow you to return the speed of the coolers to the maximum mode when closing the planner.
To adjust the fan speed, we need to go to Advanced tab and select your motherboard from Chip drop down list. Then select MANUAL, manual override, against the appearing fans.
Now by clicking OK, we get to the main window of SpeedFan utility, where manual control of our cooling devices is already available. And we can adjust the speed of rotation up to 100%, or reduce to the desired speed.
The ways of adjustment
There are several ways to correct the errors. It is possible to use one of the following ways:
- Adjust the rotation speed in the motherboard Basic Input/Output System (BIOS). This way has some inconvenience, because of the need to restart the device and enter BIOS. Thus, if you need to increase the speed in a short time, this method becomes unreasonable.
- How to change the speed of the cooler? There is also a lot of software that can speed up or slow down the rotation speed of the blades. These include SpeedFun, MSI Afterburner, OverDrive and other programs.
- The most expensive way is to buy a reboost with the connection of fans to it. In this case it is possible to regulate the rotation speed in real time by turning the built-in controls, each of which is responsible for a particular fan.
It is up to the user to decide which method to use. However, the most versatile and affordable is the use of software.
How to set up SpeedFan. Free fan control software
How to adjust the fan speed on the case
The main highlight of the software is to adjust the fan speed depending on conditions (such as CPU temperature), but again, if there is hardware support from the hardware. In addition, it can collect statistics on the taken parameters and write them into log-file, draws graphs of temperature, voltage and fan speed.
In this release quite a few important changes and innovations have been made:
- new tab called “EXOTICS” is added
- fixed problems with dialogs when using large font resolution
- Added full support for Areca RAID controllers
- significantly extended support for SCSI devices
- added support for Abit uGuru 3 (uGuru 2005)
- Added full support for monitoring the temperature of Intel FB memory-
- added support for ITE IT8720F, Andigilog aSC7611, LM96000, Analog Devices ADT7490, SMSC SCH5327, Windbond W83766HG sensors
- Processor ID system improved
- extended support for WINBOND W83637HF, Asus F8000, SMSC SCH5514, SMSC EMC2300, ITE IT8718F, Analog Devices ADP3228, ITE IT8512F, Fintek F71872, SMSC LPC47M17 sensors
- Added support for HECI driver
- fixed problems with temperature readings on Intel processors made on 45 nm technology
- added support for SMBus of nVIDIA MCP65, MCP67, MCP73, MCP78S, VIA CX700M, Intel 82801JI system logic
- extended support for some motherboards and system logics
- added support for some Dell laptops
- Fixed many other bugs and inaccuracies (more)
The only drawback is, perhaps, insufficient support for mobile platforms, or rather its almost complete absence.
To get acquainted with the list of supported sensors, motherboards that allow to change the fan speeds, and hard drives can be found on the official site (although it does not contain most of the latest models, but this does not mean that the program will not work with them). If you wish, you can participate in beta-testing and get the latest test versions. To do this, you need to register in the appropriate section.
How to reduce cooler RPM
One of the ways to make your computer less noisy is to reduce the speed of the fans (coolers) inside the system unit.
This can be solved by using special software, by installing cooler-reducing devices in the computer, or by a combination of the two methods mentioned above.
At the same time, noise reduction should be approached wisely, as lowering fan speeds increases the temperature of the computer’s internal devices. This can have a negative effect on their performance and longevity. It is important to find a balance between comfortable noise level and permissible computer operation temperature.
A guide to unleashing the potential and fine-tuning the air cooling of personal computers
Unfortunately, there is no simple and universal recipe, where and how to screw the fans does not exist, aerodynamic processes inside the case are quite complex, in addition, they vary depending on the configuration and so simply on the knee they can not calculate. The information below can be useful not only for optimizing cooling in your finished computer, but also when choosing a new case.
п.1 I will begin by comparing the two basic blowdown schemes. with the predominance of blowing fans and blower fans. There are no fundamental differences between them; both are able to pump air through the enclosure with confidence. However, the scheme on the blowing fans (so-called negative pressure) will make it a bit more efficient, due to more laminar (calm) air masses movement. The blowers, in turn, create eddies that inhibit and agitate the airflow and negatively affect performance. On the other hand, these swirls more effectively remove heat from passive heatsinks and other heating elements, which do not have their own fans. This improves the cooling of the chipset, RAM, NVMe drives.
п.2 Nuances aside, negative pressure is preferable in my opinion, but this is no reason to abandon blower fans. Operating at about 20 percent less rpm than blowing fans will add little to the noise, while noticeably helping them pull air through the case by pushing it up from behind. Or to put it in scientific terms. reduce the aerodynamic resistance of the enclosure system.
п.3 Contrary to popular belief, there are no well-defined air flows in the enclosure; the operation of any fans inside it, first of all, results in the formation of low-pressure and high-pressure areas. The movement of air is caused by its desire to fill the low pressure areas (as well as leaving the high pressure areas), and this takes place along the path of least resistance. The resistance is in turn determined by the influence of neighboring high and low pressure areas, as well as by the distance to the ventilation holes and their area. Let’s look at these processes in more detail on the example of a standard dual-fan graphics card:
As you can see, along with the fresh air outside the case, the rarefaction under the video card will willingly fill with its own heated exhaust. In the absence of other fans, only a small force of convection pulling the warm air upwards can prevent this. Case fans are designed to improve the situation. either blowing in from the front side, which will reduce the drag in this direction, or blowing out from above, preventing the exhaust air from being drawn back in:
At the same time another problem arises. Excessive airflow in the case causes parasitic drafts (shown in pink) that interfere with the fans’ ability to do useful work, reducing their efficiency. It can be reduced by balancing the intake and exhaust (which is not easily feasible in every enclosure), or eliminated by carefully sealing all unnecessary openings.
п.4 Special attention should be paid to the influence of nearby fans on each other, because this influence can often have a negative effect on their performance. As an exaggerated example, imagine two identical fans stacked like a sandwich, pointing in different directions. They will spin and make noise, but do zero work moving air. Naturally, such situations do not occur in real-world scenarios, but a partial manifestation is quite common. Below is such an example:
Similar phenomena can be observed when blowing in, if one fan is installed on the front panel and the other on the bottom. And also with the power supply with the fan up and the video card in the lower slots, with an inevitable rise in temperature of both components. If the fans are oriented perpendicularly, the losses are not so critical, but you should take into account that, firstly, the resulting capacity will be lower than the air volume, which both can pump separately. Secondly, it is desirable to tune them to equal productivity, otherwise the weaker fan risks to be in the role of a vent for the other, letting the air in the opposite direction, that reduces the sense of its use to nothing.
п.5 Main task, which comes down to organizing the ventilation of an enclosure. to provide the cooling system of each computer node with cold air in an amount equal to their flow (this is how much the video card and processor pump through themselves). Although it often makes sense to make a compromise and let the cpu cooler partially use the air exhausted by the graphics card. Increasing extraction power is of little or no benefit. In order to achieve the lowest noise possible, two conditions are important. bring the noise of each fan to about the same level and ensure that they are as efficient as possible. And all this relying solely on the power of your imagination, simulating in your head the movement of air masses under the influence of the factors listed in the article. Not the easiest task, but I hope many readers will find it fascinating.
п.6 Additions and notes:
1) The more resistance the enclosure puts up, the more important is the role of parasitic sealing and the more important is the pressure created by the fans (irrespective of their orientation). Factors Increasing Resistance. a blank front panel and bottom, an array of hard drive garbage cans in the front, and cable clutter. Air friction against the enclosure walls also creates drag, so it’s a little easier for the air to move in wide enclosures.
2) If blowing fans prevail, the harmful roof and rear wall peoria should be sealed first. The opposite is true with blower cases.
3) Graphics cards of non-reference design with traditional fans form a vertical air flow, so if you get carried away with the blower fans in the upper half of the case, they can come into conflict with the video card’s CO.
4) The weaker the graphics card’s CO, the more heat will be dissipated passively from the back side of the board. And this is where swirls from blower fans can help, but considering the previous point, it only works with reference turbines.
5) Pulling air over the motherboard bezel, when there is negative pressure, cannot be completely eliminated, but modern motherboards have a fan guard installed there to pull the air over the VRM heatsink and help cool it.
6) Cases with a single fan on the back wall. not a sentence for hot systems because its efficiency can be easily raised to almost 100%. In contrast, enclosures with a top-mounted PSU. real evil. If you put there a modern unit, which is cooled by a low-speed fan, depending on the speed of the rear one, the air flow through the PSU risks to get close to zero, which can lead to various unpleasant consequences.
Why fans are noisy and what are the ways to fix it
With the exception of special fanless modifications, every computer has two or more coolers: in the power supply, on the processor, graphics card, in the case, and others. And everyone makes noise in their own way, and that is bad news. Many people have got used to the noise of their system and think it should be like this. Maybe it should be, but it doesn’t have to be! In 99% of cases computer noise can be reduced by 10%-90%, and this is good news.
As you have already figured out, silence is achieved by reducing the noise from the coolers. You can do it by using coolers that are quieter by nature or by reducing the speed of your existing coolers. Of course, speeds can be limited to values that do not threaten to overheat the computer! In this article we will talk about this method. Even programs to decrease hard disk rumble can help.
So, to reduce the speed of the cooler, you can use one of the options:
- The program to control cooler rotation speed
- Intelligent speed control system embedded in the BIOS
- Utilities from the motherboard, notebook or graphics card manufacturer
- Use a special device called a reboost
- Artificially lower the supply voltage of the fan
Who has a normal control from the BIOS, can not read further. But often the BIOS only superficially adjusts the RPMs, without lowering them to silent, yet still acceptable, values. Utilities from the manufacturer, sometimes the only way to affect the fan because third party programs often do not work on unusual motherboards and laptops. Let’s analyze the most optimal. the first method.
Changing settings via BIOS and UEFI
To adjust the BIOS settings you need to boot into this interface. Reboot your computer and after you restart it press one of the buttons: F2, F8, F10, Escape or Delete. Which one depends on the motherboard model and BIOS version.
This can also be done through UEFI. Newer motherboards already have this graphical shell installed. In fact, it is the same BIOS, but in a nice “wrapper”. Here you will find the Fan Temperature or Fan Control section.
Pay attention that the option has no words CPU or GPU in its name. these settings are responsible for the fan of the processor or graphics card.
To change the current value, highlight the item with the arrows on your keyboard, press Enter, and specify the appropriate parameter. I advise to start at 80%, and then decrease it gradually if the cooler is still too noisy.
To save the settings press F10. Your changes will take effect the next time you boot Windows.
At your own risk
When experimenting with the computer’s cooling system, you should be aware that a complete stop or a drastic drop in the speed of the coolers can lead to overheating of the device they cool. This is more true for the CPU and graphics card. All other fans usually have an auxiliary function, but if their performance does affect the level of cooling of said devices, then you need to be careful with their control.
However, even the old motherboards and graphics cards were equipped with an overheat protection mechanism that immediately cut off the power supply when their temperature reaches a certain point. But this should not be a reason to test the reliability and efficiency of this mechanism.
In other words. do everything at your own risk.
Greetings! This is my first post on the PS. My computer is equipped with home-built air cooling system, it is cool, quiet, overclocking.everything is fine.In the system two fans, 120mm blowing air videocard (x1950gt Palit 512MB) and 250mm works on the air (chassis Aerocool) and a third in the PSU.The fans were connected in parallel through the emitter repeater to the video card cooler connector (2-pin) and the cooler itself gave way to a waterblock.The scheme is very simple, the voltage (read speed) at the connector videcard cooler is regulated in Riva Tuner and the fans spin as I please. All was fine before changing the video card at GF8800 GT 512MB Palit (blue cooler, not Sonic) SIM card was exposed to a week of torture (overclocking and tests, with everything you can), then put the “water” on it, and the cooler, respectively, went to rest. Now let’s get down to business.On this card, the cooler has four contacts and is controlled by a PWM signal, my circuit refused to regulate the speed.I had to learn more about pulse-width modulation technology from the internet.The solution was pretty simple.apply a field-effect transistor, not bipolar.I will not give the schematic, it is enough to take a picture of the “product”.
Solder! I used a D50NH field-effect transistor, everyone is familiar with the MOSFET.Donor was a video card 7600gt Palit, fell victim to voltmod over a year ago.Transistor is included in the gap of the black wire (“-” or “ground”), PWM signal is fed to the gate transistor from the video card (on mine it is the blue wire or 1st contact from the left).It is advisable to do it with a 1-2 kOhm resistor “just in case“.to the poloviks are afraid of static.As can be seen in the photo, the fan is powered through a 3-pin connector and connected to the motherboard, you can also hook up the video card, if you have the appropriate connector.If everything is connected correctly and the transistor is not “broken”, the valve becomes “obedient”. You can regulate any fan with this simple method.Not seldom change the “boxy” cooler with a 4-pin (PWM) connector for a more efficient, but equipped with a fan with a 3-pin connector, while on the motherboard remains unclaimed exactly the fourth contact with a PWM signal.Now it is possible to engage it, for example, I have a connected housing 250mm fan, but it already ruled Speedfan. I hope that my experience will be helpful to someone. P.S In the photo, the black wire on the small 2-pin connector is ILLEGED! I was too lazy to cut it off. RPM monitoring in this circuit is not WORKING! The tachometer wire should be disconnected (on the advice of a major specialist), to avoid damage to the speed monitoring circuit or the fan!