Even a beginner can adjust the parameters of the sewing machine on their own. It is necessary to use the product manual, but when something is not completely clear, ask more experienced tailors.
- Adjust the spring with which the thread is fed up, to the needle. Find the position in which the thread is unbraided when the bobbin is secured with the bobbin.
- Achieve the right amount of thread tension. this is done through the mechanics of the hook tuning screw and on the front of the machine itself.
- Test the operation of the device after adjustment. You will need an unnecessary flap. After sewing test stitches on the machine that has just been set up, check that there are no hanging stitches. If they are. the upper thread tensioner is too tight, loosen it. Repeat the test stitching. if the tensioner is adjusted correctly, the stitch will come out flat, uniform, not overstitched. This contains knots in the middle that cannot be felt when examining in detail.
- The correct value for the press force on the foot side is found by turning the individual screw. With most electromechanical and electronic sewing machines, it is within easy reach and can be turned without much effort on the part of the user. This is necessary for accurate and fast adjustments. within a few seconds. Do not overtighten or unduly loosen this screw. In the first case, the fabric may tear, in the second, the seam will come out slanted, t. к. The presser foot does not press the layers of fabric properly.
- Make sure that the motor is working and working properly. Achieve optimal speed of its drive shaft (the number of revolutions per minute, enough for fast and comfortable work). Set this parameter with the regulator on the foot pedal. There are cases where the machine starts abruptly, even with a slight pressure on the pedal. The pedal itself should also be cleaned regularly.
- Finally, check the proper operation of the needle holder. The needle must not be blunted, or it will tear the material each time it is pierced in a new place before a new stitch is sewn.
These rules will also work for the tune-up of an old manual sewing machine.
How to adjust the stitching?
Good day, all readers of blog milla-sidelnikova.com!
Nice, straight stitches are very important! Seams are one of the main elements of the construction of the product and their quality performance is an indicator of the level of professionalism of those who made them. Therefore, you should try to do everything to make sure that the stitches made by the sewing machine are flawless.
But before you make the seams, it is necessary to prepare as well as possible. It is better to spend a little more time on preparation, so that you can get the job done quickly, accurately, and neatly.
And, of course, set yourself up for a successful job, too. Then the work will run smoothly.
There are several conditions that must be met before sewing machine stitches.
Sewing Machine Thread Tension. Updated
Thread and needle numbers for sewing machines should be chosen according to the type of operation to be performed and the thickness of the fabric.
All inside stitches are made with threads in the color of the main fabric.
Finishing stitches are either in the color of the main fabric or in a contrasting color. Finishing stitches are sewn with silk or synthetic threads. But they definitely need to be more resistant to “aggressive environmental influences” than the threads for the inner seams, because in the process of operation of the finished product from them and the “demand” more.
The stitch length for internal stitches made with a sewing machine depends on the thickness of the fabric being worked. The thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch. It can be from 2 to 3 mm. A stitch of this length is called a normal or regular stitch.
As the fabric is thicker, it automatically reduces the stitch length when sewing items such as natural or synthetic leather, suede, etc.д., the stitch length is increased to 2.5 4 mm. This is also done in order to prevent the fabric itself from tearing as a result of the line of dense needle-punctures on it.
In the areas subject to the greatest stretching during use (e.g. the middle seam on the back of the trouser, the armhole seam on the back side, etc.).д.) it is best to lay the stitching with finer stitches (up to 1 mm).
Very short stitches 0.5 0.7 mm perform tack.
The stitch length of the finishing stitches are set longer than the normal stitch length. And maybe 4 5 mm.
Before you start to do machine stitching, the details of the cut need to be swept. That is to fold the fabric with its right sides facing each other, align the seams and markings and sew a bias stitch.
Or before you do machine stitching parts of the cut can be chipped pins. Such a “procedure” can be done when the seam is laid in straight lines. Then the pins are poked across the seam.
Of course, the likelihood that the sewing machine needle will hit exactly the pin is not so great. But when that happens, the needle and pin are likely to become unusable for further work. Yes, and to risk the “health” of the sewing machine, personally, I’m never in a hurry. So I remove the pins right in front of the sewing machine foot.
The fabric is placed under the presser foot so that it is all to the left of the presser foot.
Conversely, if you are sewing a narrow hemmed stitch or a belt will be sewn, then the fabric should be on the right side of the foot.
Machine stitches are laid strictly along the contours of the pattern (which is already applied to the fabric), at a distance of 0.1-0.15 cm from the interlocking stitch.
Whether you baste the details of cutting, or overlap, and when laying the stitching, the sewing machine still somewhat shifts one layer of fabric against another. To somehow minimize this shifting of layers, you need to follow these rules:
- If the length of the cutting pattern is the same, then you can sew from either side of the pattern. But in doing so, the cut of the lower pattern must be pulled slightly toward you with the right hand, and the cut of the upper pattern must be guided (pushed under the sewing machine foot) with the left hand;
- If the cut of one pattern is slightly longer than the other, then the stitching is sewn on the side of the pattern whose cut is shorter;
- (1 in picture 1) if the machine stitches two cuts that “belong” to different fabric thicknesses together, then the thicker fabric will go down.
- (2 in picture 1) if when joining two patterns, one with a straight cut, the other with an oblique cut, the “union” of these patterns is placed, for stitching, with the straight cut at the top, oblique cut at the bottom;
- If the stitching is sewn on a closed contour, it should be sewn from the inside;
- (3 in picture 1) and if one of the patterns to be joined (when the stitching is on a closed contour) is squished, then it is placed at the bottom;
- (1 in picture 2) if two seams are joined, one of which is a lapped (formed assembly), then the stitching is laid on the side of the lapped cut;
- (2 in picture 2) when joining a seam that is straight and the other is convex, the stitching is sewn on the convex side;
- (3 in picture 2) when joining seams that are convex and concave, the stitching will be sewn on the concave side.
when joining a seam at an angle to the warp ends, then the stitching should be sewn from the wider part of the pattern to the narrower one. This way the threads of the cut are less cracked.
If the machine stitch was performed on a closed contour, it can not be fixed, and just make the end of the stitch at the beginning of 2 2.5 cm.
Finish the machine stitch the same way you started with a tack.
And about this, how to properly start and finish a machine stitch, I suggest you read in the next article.
How to adjust the sewing machine thread tension
The quality of the seam, and therefore the entire finished product, is determined by the proper thread tension settings in the sewing machine.
This is a parameter that is very important to adjust every time you use a different fabric or different fiber type.
If something is wrong with the tensioner while working, the thread is constantly torn and the seam is sagging. The fabric can be jammed and sometimes the stitches can have gaps.
This not only reduces the quality of the finished product, but also makes the work unbearable. A few recommendations help to deal with this problem.
How to make the stitching even?
Well, in the previous article we prepared the sewing machine for work. Pull the ends of the upper and lower threads up to 15 mm and pull them back under the presser foot. And what to do next, so that from under the foot of the sewing machine stitch comes out flat?
Because straight stitch, it’s so important! The quality of the stitching determines the appearance of the product and how long it will last. By machine stitching can immediately determine who did it, a crooked amateur or a pro.
So in today’s article we will deal with how to make a machine stitch quickly, efficiently and with the first time.
In order for the machine stitch to be even, two factors must work simultaneously. Sewing machine a basic tool in sewing, must be ready to work 100%. And working on it must have the appropriate mindset.
What does it mean, the sewing machine is ready for 100?
The sewing machine needle (stem thickness (size), shape of the point) must be in perfect condition and match the type and thickness of the fabric;
T h e n i ts. tucked in a sewing machine, must be of high quality, correspond to the type of fabric, its thickness, as well as the size of the needle;
The upper and lower threads must be of the “same dough”. Which means they must be the same thickness and preferably the same brand;
The sewing machine should be threaded with upper and lower thread, exactly as suggested by the manufacturer of the sewing machine, in its instruction manual.
If there is no automatic thread tension control, both upper and lower thread tension must be adjusted by yourself. How to adjust it, this tension?
Properly adjusted tension of upper and lower threads is when during the stitching, their (threads) intertwining occurs in the middle of the sewn layers of fabric, not on their upper or lower surface. The stitches formed by this should be the same at the top and bottom of the stitching.
Therefore, a trial stitch should always be sewn before the main stitch is sewn. If the upper and lower threads are of contrasting colors, then their intertwining will be more clearly visible. In doing so, the sample thread, in structure, in texture, in size should be exactly the same as the thread with which the main stitch will be sewn.
If the stitches on the proof are the same, both on top and bottom layers of fabric, then the tension of the upper and lower threads can be considered correct.
If loops of upper thread form on the underside of the fabric, it is necessary to increase the tension of the upper thread.
If loops from the lower thread form on the upper surface of the fabric, you need to increase the tension of the lower thread.
The tension of the upper thread is adjusted with the regulator. It looks different on different sewing machines. This may be some rotating circle or screw. But it is invariably located on the head of the sewing machine, somewhere near the needle or the “paths” of the upper thread. It always adjusts the distance between the discs, washers, etc.п. which clamp the upper thread.
There is usually a scale on such a regulator. The desired tension of the upper thread is set according to the marking. The higher the number indicated by the upper thread tension regulator, the tenser the thread is.
The lower thread tension regulator is on the bobbin case.
It’s a little screw that adjusts the tension of the elastic plate mounted here on the bobbin case. And depending on what tension the lower thread is required, the screw, then loosened (unscrewed), then clamped (screwed).
The length of the stitch should also be adjusted to the thickness of the sewn layers of fabric and the type of stitching performed. This is done, or by scrolling the knob stitch length regulator on mechanical sewing machines, or is exposed on the display of computerized machines.
Well, with the numbers on the display of a computerized machine, everything is clear, which figure is put so long stitch (in mm) and will sew the sewing machine.
The scale, located on the regulator of stitch length of mechanical sewing machines can be s:
- The inch division is from 0 to 20, where the number means the number of stitches per inch (1 inch ≈ 2.54 cm). If you put the number 10, then the stitches in an inch will be 10, which means the stitch length will be somewhere around 2.54 mm;
- with metric division (0, 1, 2, 3 etc).д.), where the number indicates how many mm in one stitch of stitching;
- By the numbered division (from 0 to 9), where the length of the stitch is exposed, we can say the method of poke, the higher the number on the scale, the longer the stitch and vice versa.
When making inside stitches, the sewing machine controller is set to the division at which the sewing machine should make a normal (normal) stitch:
- For sewing machines with an inch division recommended to put the regulator to the division between 10 and 12;
- with metric division at 3 mm;
- with a numbered division on the number 5.
There is no stitch width adjustment as such. There is a stitch width adjustment. It, too, is exposed or on the display of computerized sewing machines or the regulator the width of stitches in mechanical machines.
Pressure presser foot, if it is not automatic, and it can be adjusted, too. For thin materials set the foot pressure on the fabric is weaker, for thicker.
When sewing different stitches, you need to use the foot, recommended by the manufacturer and designed to perform certain stitches.
Now, as for working at the sewing machine.
Of course, it is better to learn right away with a good technique. And work too. But any, sometimes even the best technique in the hands of the unskilled piece of iron. Have you ever met one of these in your life?! Yes? Whatever he takes, and his hands are hooks. In this case, you can advise one of two things, or do not approach the sewing machine or practice and again practice, and there you look, and kulema become a pro.
Next. To make the case was going well, the stitch came out even, first you need to clean up. Do not sit down to work at a sewing machine in a state of extreme nervous agitation. Sewing machine, it is certainly an animate object, but the jerking, braking and thrashing can not stand. Definitely will retaliate.
Sew evenly. On long, smooth distances, you can increase the speed to the maximum. At corners, on difficult sections, on curved seams slow down. And in the most difficult places, where the seam has a very complex shape, the stitch must be laid, turning the handwheel by hand.
Always leave the needle of the sewing machine in the fabric when stopping or turning the sewn layers to avoid stitching misalignment.
Do not push, push heavily under the needle of the sewing machine.
While stitching, many, especially beginner sewing enthusiasts, like to look at the sewing machine needle running. It is certainly mesmerizing when one is working. And there’s no end to looking at it. But then do not expect a straight stitch.
Needle will not go anywhere, will not go for a walk, a smoke break, too.
On many sewing machines, to the right of the needle there is a scale. It can be on the needle plate or it can be applied to the body of the sewing machine. The scale is the same as a ruler. Where 0, this is the point of entry of the needle into the needle plate, and therefore the point of reference. The distance from 0 to the lines of this scale is the width of the seam.
This is the line that you need to navigate while sewing. The cut of the fabric layers to be sewn must run along it. The calmer and smoother the cut along the reference line, the smoother and neater the stitch is obtained.
If the sewing machine has no such scale, or available badly visible (the glow of the light) or not enough markings on the scale, it can easily be done yourself.
To do this, you need to cut a strip of paper of any width and length. For example, let it be 5 cm long and 1.5 cm wide. Mark on it the divisions you want in cm, mm, etc.д.
Attach the homemade scale to the sewing machine body. The axis of the needle should be on the zero mark. Opposite any mark on this scale (except 0), make any marks on the scale and on the body of the machine (for further alignment).
Then a part of the self timeline from zero and to the right should be cut off. Cut enough so that the homemade scale does not interfere with the conveyor belt.
Cover the front side of the homemade scale (the side on which the divisions are applied) with a sticky side of adhesive tape.The strip of tape should be slightly wider and longer than the scale strip.
Next, aligning the mark on the scale and the body of the sewing machine glue a strip of tape to the body. This thing can serve you well for a long time.
An excellent “guiding star” for making straight stitches can be a strip of duct tape glued across the body of the sewing machine, at the right distance from the needle.
Or you could do without the scale. Choose some other reference point. For example, the sewing machine foot, its inner and outer edges can serve as a great guide.
Often it happens that here would be done right, but the seam well or not get flat. I explain it this way, life itself, does not let you go on. It organized you a temporary cul-de-sac, in order that you stop and think about something wrong, something is missing, something else needed to be done. And not seldom it turns out, exactly, some operation, manipulation or action, in the process of sewing was missed.
Well, that’s all for today. Have a smooth stitch! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!
Tuning and adjusting the sewing machine with their own hands
In the case of a serious damage to the sewing machine can only help it a competent specialist. Although, in most cases, as practice shows, the machine is operated at home does not require complex repairs, and to be able to use it, you only need to make its adjustment and. And it’s quite possible to do it on their own, most importantly, to learn and understand how to properly adjust the sewing machine before work and what specific parts should be adjusted in it.
How to adjust and adjust the sewing machine
Modern household machines are well thought out designers. A minimal understanding of sewing principles is required from the user to adjust the following parameters and work with the appliance with peace of mind:
Setting the stitch parameters
Even the most basic models of electric home machines have a good selection of stitches designed for sewing in different techniques. The choice of mode also depends on the fabric used. The sewer can manually adjust the length and width of the stitch to get the best stitch quality.
Warning! For thin and delicate fabrics the stitch pitch should be shorter.
The user manual usually contains a description of the operating modes, the suitability of certain operations for certain tasks, and the types of fabric. For some materials and modes, the sewing width and even the needle must be changed.
Types of stitches in a modern electromechanical sewing machine
Setting the needle relative to the hook
To ensure that during operation the seam was even, with no skips, you need to adjust the setting of the needle relative to the hook. This adjustment is very important for zigzag stitching.
Normally, the working needle, rising from the lower position by 1.8 mm, should meet at the point with the hook. Adjust this position can be adjusted with a wrench, loosening the screw, fixing at this time the flywheel.
If you can not adjust this setting yourself, you need to contact the service.
Adjusting the needle bar and tensioner
Breakage, slack and looping of the working thread is a fairly popular problem. In this case, the machine makes skips in the stitching or sews unevenly. The problem is in the tensioner: the tensioner may shift or fall out. In this case, the needle bar retracts to the high point together with the needle.
The problem can be solved by loosening the screw and adjusting the needle blade so that the groove is in the correct position.
Adjusting the working thread tension
This setting affects the quality of the stitching: how smooth it is, without clips or sagging. If the tension is too high, use the dial on the machine body to choose a lower number on the scale. Act gradually, checking the effect of each displacement of the regulator on the stitch.
The lower half of the buttonhole must not come out on top. If the tension of the upper thread does not help, the lower thread should be adjusted.
Adjusting the tension of the bobbin thread
You can check the correctness of this adjustment with the removable shuttle. If the bobbin, inserted into it, does not move when the whole structure is suspended by the thread coming from the bobbin, it is necessary to loosen the tension. If, on the contrary, the bobbin winds too much, the tension must be increased.
To increase the tension, the adjusting screw should be tightened with the tool in a clockwise direction, to loosen it, in a counterclockwise direction. Here also need to act slowly, step by step, checking the adjustment after each step.
Adjusting the position of the toothed bar
This one is responsible for the movement of the fabric during operation. the moment the needle pierces the material, the top of the tooth must be in line with the working surface. If this setting is not correct, the fabric will not stay in place, or will pull and tear, and the stitching will not be even.
The position of the bar is simple to correct. To do this, lift the presser foot, and the sliding bar so that it takes the correct position (this point is usually described in detail in the user’s manual). At this point the flywheel should be moved towards you.
Tooth bar height
It may happen that the top point of the tooth is not sufficiently elevated above the surface. This can be corrected. Tilt the machine backwards. Slightly loosen the screw, adjust the height of the tooth. When adjusted correctly, only the teeth should be visible in the middle of the plate. Front of workpiece should be 0,5 mm higher than back of workpiece. If necessary, a shim can be placed on the presser foot.
Adjusting the presser foot pressure
The stitch quality and working comfort depends on this parameter. On simpler models the presser foot pressure can be adjusted by adjusting the screw on the presser foot holder. In the more advanced models, this screw is on the body. Work with it according to the user manual of the particular machine model.
Sewing problems are often the result of improper use of the machine and lack of maintenance. Adjust the equipment in strict accordance with the documentation of the machine manufacturer. Very important:
- Make sure that the threads are correctly threaded;
- keep the tension under control;
- Choose threads and needles according to the type and thickness of the fabric;
- lubricate the machine at the appropriate time and remove any dirt;
- Keep it in a dry place out of the reach of children.
Needles and threads must be suitable for the material. It is contraindicated to sew thick fabric (twill, canvas, denim and others) with a thin needle, otherwise the product will be ruined.
needle and thread thickness are indicated in the number markings.
The following tips will help you avoid wasted time in readjusting the machine, and with it, incipient problems with the machine.
- Before starting the next stitch, remember to take the ends of the upper and lower threads away from yourself. This prevents unnecessary intertwining of the threads. Newbies often make this mistake the first time.
- To quickly detect problems with the evenness of the test stitch, it is recommended to use different colors of thread to contrast with the color of the fabric. But your main job will require threads of similar, not drastically different colors.
- For each type of fabric and thread of varying thickness, it’s a good idea to write down the exact settings of the tensioners. This will allow less than a minute to set up the machine for the work to come, and without wasting time, immediately begin sewing.
- The tensioners should be adjusted from the top tensioner, not the bottom one.
How the thread tension mechanism works in a sewing machine
Thread guides are responsible for thread tension and proper placement. These are the hooks on the body of the machine through which the thread passes before being inserted into the needle. Thanks to this intricate route, the thread doesn’t get tangled along the way, and it doesn’t get caught or tangled anywhere. The thread tension is uniform, resulting in an even seam without any stitches or sagging. The bottom thread is pulled taut by a spring in the hook.
The tension of this thread is adjusted by a special disc tensioner. Thread is passed between two discs. The distance between them is changed by the operator when he sets a particular tension value. The gap between the plates changes, clamping the thread to a certain degree.
Old models have only one tensioner, the degree of tightening of which is controlled by a simple nut or rotary switch. On modern machines there are 2-3 tensioners, which are controlled on the front panel of the machine in the form of buttons or regulators with a scale.
The upper thread tension can be adjusted in many ways
You need to adjust the tension for each type of thread and fabric. Excessive tension will cause the thread to tear and tighten the seam. In advanced machines, this is adjusted automatically.
The lower thread is also adjustable in tension. This is controlled by the hook spring. You can adjust this value with the screw located at the base of the spring.
Finding the screw for the bobbin thread tension in a removable hook is easy. If the design of the hook does not involve disassembly, it is more difficult to find the spring and screw to adjust it. For the location of this adjustment, refer to the owner’s manual of your particular machine model.
In any machine the adjustment is the same: the screw on the spring is tightened clockwise, increasing the degree of tension, or vice versa. Thread tension is sensitive to screw twist. It is enough to turn it 30-45 degrees for it to change. It is recommended to make a control seam after each such turn with a screwdriver. A miniature screwdriver is most often included with the machine.