How to convert a gas boiler to an electric boiler

Converting the boiler to liquefied gas: how to correctly remodel the unit and make adjustments to the automatics

The gas boilers offered for sale are oriented and configured to process the main gas. But how in this case, what about the owners of private homes that are not connected to the system of natural gas? After all, to live in normal civilized conditions with a functioning heating system is needed now.

Everything is very simple. the transfer of the boiler to liquefied gas will allow to heat the house and warm sanitary water, using a group of cylinders or a gas holder. To achieve this goal, your unit will have to be slightly modified and reconfigured for other fuel pressure parameters. We explain in detail how this work is carried out.

What documents regulate the replacement of boilers?

Gas heating equipment, if not properly installed, operated or maintained, is source of danger. Therefore, its replacement is not just the purchase and installation of the right unit, but a whole procedure, which is regulated by a number of documents.

All necessary information about replacing gas boilers is freely available. But sometimes it is not easy to find them, because the topic of gas equipment regulate dozens of domestic profile documents. Among them are laws, based on them SNiP, governmental orders, etc.

But among them, there are a number of documents that are more important to the consumer than all the others. Since the information laid out in them will help you understand the nuances of the replacement of stakes, as well as protect your interests from possible misconduct of representatives of the state gas service.

Replacing a gas boiler is a carefully regulated procedure that requires some knowledge. As a result, there are many requirements, rules that must be strictly followed

The most popular documents include:

  • SNiP 2.04.08-87, which is called “Gas Supply.”
  • SNiP 42-41-2002 called “Gas Distribution Systems”.
  • Gs of 29.12.2004 90-FZ (the Town Planning Code);
  • PP from 30.12.2013 314 (Government Decree “On amending the rules for connecting to gas distribution networks” );
  • PP of 16.11.2016 203 (Government Decree “On approval of the rules for connecting to gas distribution networks”);
  • SNiP II-35-76, which prescribes the procedure for connecting boilers;
  • Administrative Code of 30.12.2001 N 195-FZ (the Code of Administrative Offences).

It should be remembered that, if necessary, you should use their latest versions, which contain current articles with the latest changes and additions.

Schemes of heating a private home with an electric boiler

Mounting an electric boiler on the wall

  • Clean the wall from dust and dirt.
  • Mounting kit: hinged mounting plate, wall plugs and screws are usually included with the boiler.
  • Make a mark on the wall in accordance with the mounting bar and drill holes of appropriate diameter dowels (usually Ø 10 mm), insert the dowels into the holes.
  • Hang the boiler on the threaded hooks and tighten the screws.

Depending on the model, the fastening elements may vary slightly. When installing Protherm Scat models, you need to secure the mounting bar and then simply hang the boiler on it. The detailed algorithm is always specified in the manual.

Wiring arrangement

For electric heating element boilers in the monoblock body which already have all the necessary elements of the system it is enough to connect the supply and return lines to the appropriate nipples. To the return through the make-up valve is necessary to bring the water into the system.

For simple THEN boilers without circulation pump and expansion tank all elements are connected according to one of the diagrams above.

  • First, the water collector and the expansion tank are mounted on special mountings.
  • Then, in accordance with the scheme, lay the distribution of pipes with the circulation pump, filter, safety group installed on them.

Not all isolating shut-off valves are shown in the wiring diagrams for the electric boilers. It is advisable to install them before and after each element of the wiring, so that they can be replaced in the event of a fault without draining the water from the entire heating system. For the construction to be reliable, fasten the swinging sections to the wall with bundles. It is recommended that all threaded connections should be sealed with sealing tape.

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Bringing electric wiring and connection of electric boiler to it

Electric boilers have a large capacity and only low-power models up to 3.5 kW are allowed to be connected to the socket, usually used in apartments. Otherwise, only connect directly to the appliance.

Boiler unit is connected to the electric network via a differential circuit breaker or RCD circuit breaker (1 circuit breaker for each phase). The power cable must have a sufficient cross-section, which can be calculated, for example, based on the capacity of the electric boiler.

So, when the electric boiler with 18 kW power (three-phase network) and using a cable with copper conductors, its cross-section should be 10 mm 2 (according to Electrical Installation Regulations, the allowable load is up to 19 kW). Usually the exact values of the cable cross-section and the nominal values are indicated in the electric boiler data sheet.

The electrical wiring diagram itself is the same for all electric boilers, the only difference is the number of phases.

When connecting to a single-phase power supply, it is sufficient to connect the phase to any of the contacts (U, V or W). When connecting the electric boiler to a three-phase (380V) power system, it is necessary to remove the jumper (see “Wiring diagram”). connection diagram) and connect each of the 3 contacts of the phase. Zero and ground (N and PE respectively) are connected in the same way in each case.

We also recommend to connect the electric boiler through a voltage regulator. Since the failure of automatics as a result of power surges in our conditions. a frequent problem.

Earthing

Electric installations of high power, which include household electric boilers, require high-quality grounding in compliance with all rules and requirements. From the body of the boiler must go wire the necessary cross section to the internal switchboard grounding if it is already organized, or directly to the buried electrodes, if the grounding in the country house is not.

The outer part of the protection should be in a place where it is guaranteed that there will be nobody at the moment of breakdown of power supply, but preferably not more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house.

  • Digging a triangle and its approach with a shovel to a depth of 0.5-0.7 meters, the length of the sides of the triangle is 1.2 meters.
  • Sharpen with an angle grinder and hammer into the ground on the tops of the triangle vertical grounding bars. metal 5050 angles, 2.1-2.2 meters long. They must only protrude slightly from the ground so that horizontal grounding plates can be welded to them in the future.
  • Form the sides of the triangle, weld to the vertical electrodes 3 strips of metal long 1.2 m, 4 cm wide and at least 4 cm thick.
  • Weld to the nearest apex of the triangle and run along the trench to the foundation of the house a strip of stainless steel 4)4 mm.
  • Connect the grounding wire coming from the switchboard or electric boiler body with a bolted connection.
  • Backfill the construction with earth.

Materials:

What are the combined boilers “gas-electricity

The electric gas boiler. is always a floor construction with a steel or cast iron heat exchanger, without the use of a removable gas burner. it is a standard solid fuel boiler, differing only in the presence of a built-in block of heating elements (tubular electric heaters), additionally heating the coolant in the water jacket. Binding, installation and connection of universal boilers is performed similarly to the single-fuel.

What are the needs and how are they used?

Undoubtedly, there are advantages of using a combined design:

  • Saving space in the boiler room, because the dimensions of the universal boiler is usually equal to the dimensions of the classic solid fuel boiler;
  • The possibility of using two types of fuel at any time, for example, electricity, as long as there is no planned gas line near the house;
  • In the presence of conditionally free electricity (solar panels, wind farms, etc.д.).

However, as we have said, without special conditions, the purchase of electric boiler is not justified either economically or practically.

Firstly, absolutely all models of combined electric and gas boilers, the gas burner must be purchased separately, which practically compares the cost of a full-fledged boiler with the cost of two separate budget boiler-aggregates.

Secondly, the efficiency and functionality of individual, even budget models, is always higher than a single multi-fuel. This is due to the structure of the furnace chamber, designed primarily for solid fuel, as well as fairly simple automation or its complete absence. The only exceptions are multi-fuel foreign models, but their

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Third, a small bonus of two single-fuel boilers is that if one breaks down, the other can be used as a backup. And even judging by the demand, it is much more common scheme.

Device and principle of operation

The principle of operation of domestic models is quite simple and well known: in the furnace chamber burns solid fuel, the walls of the chamber. a heat exchanger, inside which is circulating through the system coolant. If you want to switch to gas, on the ash door or a specially dedicated mount is installed gas burner with an appropriate attachment (without welding).

However, the design of the heat exchanger, designed for a large volume of the furnace chamber, while burning gas produces a corresponding efficiency. in the range of 75-85%, as well as when burning solid fuel. This means that when burning gas accumulates on average 10-15% less heat, because modern, even the budget gas boilers have an efficiency of 88-92%.

Also on average 5-15 liters of volume of the furnace chamber takes away the built-in block of heating elements. Depending on the model, it turns on automatically when the coolant temperature drops below a critical level, or manually (both independently and simultaneously with the work of the gas burner).

A significant disadvantage is that the block of heating elements is designed only for additional heating or longer preservation of temperature after turning off the gas burner. Therefore, its capacity even in foreign expensive models does not exceed 6 kW.

The cost of specialists

for complete replacement, paperwork and pre-commissioning work depends on the type and model of boiler, region and company providing the service. And in the Moscow region it is about 8-22 thousand for St. Petersburg. 6-15 thousand for regions. 4.5-12 thousand. About half the cost is for dismantling the old and installing the new boiler unit, almost half. the commissioning work.

Please note that the procedure of registration of the necessary documents is not always included in the replacement services.

Assembling the heating circuit as a whole

The heating system can be assembled according to the following schemes:

Bottom mounting. Inlet and outlet of the main pipe is connected to the bottom nozzles of batteries. This method can result in 15% heat loss and uneven heating of the radiator.

Upper installation. The inlet of the heat carrier is mounted on top of the radiator and the outlet is on the bottom. With this scheme, the heating of the batteries is more uniform throughout the plane, and the heat loss is minimal.

Connection on the diagonal. Suitable for radiators with a large number of sections. In this case the return is installed at the bottom, but diagonally to the inlet.

Before installation it is advisable to draw a diagram of the whole heating system on paper and calculate the rationality and efficiency of movement of antifreeze in circuits.

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Important point. Conventional FUM tape shows poor sealing when temperatures change. A thermal gap is formed and there is a leak. Classical tape with sealant will be much more effective.

How to make an electric boiler for heating

Manufacturing process. So, the basis for the tank-hull will be a square steel profile pipe 60×60 mm. Of course, if possible, it is better to use a solid seamless round tube of similar cross-section.

The master puts the TEN to the profile pipe, marks its length, and adds 3-4 cm to it. According to the received marking the body piece is cut off. In this case, the length is 380 mm.The author made this operation on a band saw, but an ordinary angle grinder .

At drilling machine , using metal drill bit , you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 25 mm in one wall of the profile.

The bottom plug is prepared in a similar way, only the hole in it should be 40 mm in diameter (the size of the heating element).

In this case the body ТEН has an external thread m42, so the plug will need to weld a piece of fitting with an appropriate internal thread.

In order not to spoil the threads on the bottom spigot with metal splashes (when welding the bottom plug), it should be protected.

Next, the surface of the housing is degreased, and painted with spray enamel. To form a durable coating and fast drying paint, it is better to apply it on a surface heated to 60 degrees.

The heating element is screwed into its place, and the master connects the output to it electronic thermostat W3002 . This controller is designed for a 1.5kW load, but according to the author, it works fine.

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Backup power to a two-circuit boiler

I started with a simple. I tried to connect the old uninterrupted power supply, the battery was taken from a child’s car as a test. Result: The boiler turned on, but the pump would not start. I tried it with another boiler: it worked, the pump started, but it didn’t start making good noises, the boiler gave me an error, it wouldn’t light up.

I decided to get to the bottom of it. Figured out what the boiler needs. So, all boilers need pure sine at the input, in addition, boilers are divided into two categories. phase-independent and phase-independent. And then there’s a phase-dependent one that needs a through-zero on top of that.

The first obstacle is a pure sine. Conventional ubp and car inverters happen to produce a saw instead of a sine wave. There is a category of UPS, which gives the desired. with double conversion. Of the popular representatives. a series of Smart UPS with a number 750 or larger (without any SC) from APC. But such a UPS costs about 40.But it is 1,000, but it is a filter and stabilizer in one person. Also found an alternative on ali express. pure sine wave inverter up to 4000 W

Of course no 4 kW is out of the question (the reviews confirm), but 1.5 there is. This is for the option of running a car in the yard. They cost about 8000 roubles.

After reading the forums, I decided to try my luck on the secondary market. And good luck smiled. APC Smart ups 1500 (sua1500) 30 km from home for 2500 p. Of course the battery is dead at zero.

A short inset “how to check the phase dependence of the boiler“. Just flip the plug, if you don’t swear, then you’re in luck.

convert, boiler, electric

There’s also this thing, some boilers need zero from the pole instead of the ibp. I can tell you that Baxi with such a zakidon. Otherwise, the fire detector doesn’t work.

convert, boiler, electric

There’s an ubp with a feedthrough, there’s no feedthrough. On apc smart ups the zero is not through, only the ground is through. But there is a solution. throw a jumper past the relay ibp, you can inside or outside. Only after that don’t flip the plugs.

So I got lucky. My boiler doesn’t need a zero or ground or phase in a certain place.

I did the test on two of my cars battery packs, I took them off a gulf and a maxima:

The boiler is working properly, as from an outlet.

Ordered the batteries. A word or two about them. From the factory, this unit has a block of two 12v 17A×h batteries glued together, connected through a fuse in series, which means we have a total of 24 volts and about 408 watt-hours. Of course, the factory unit does not interest anyone. Batteries were bought in dns at 2000 p each.

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Accumulators connected by copper, connections smeared with solidol, as the old were traces of oxidation.

Connected to the UPS via USB, using the powerchute business edition software. Here you have to enter the date the batteries were installed. There is also a choice of thresholds for low and high voltage, and a bunch of settings, which in my case is not interesting, like limiting the power consumption and shutdown on battery depletion. Double calibrated.

After that, decided to measure how long it will last. In theory (according to the documents), the boiler consumes less than 130 watts, and ibp (according to the graph on the manufacturer’s website) on the new batteries can last 180 minutes at 100 watts of load.

So, according to the ibp, when running water through the system, the boiler takes 2.2 amps, and when heated 4 amps, the load on the ibp at 9%

And as a result, in practice it came out without 5 minutes 3 hours of continuous work. Satisfied with the result. This will be enough time to bathe and keep the house warm. Depending on Sveta’s maintenance schedule, you can either leave it on permanently or turn it on for 10 minutes, pour boiling water into the radiators and stew. And if it’s really bad, you can take it off the machine and keep it warm until it

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