The device of internal block of split system: how to disassemble the equipment for cleaning and repair
Many owners of this type of equipment often have a question. how to clean the air conditioner themselves? Of course, it is possible, but it will require patience and tools like these:
- Tank in the form of some kind of container (it can be a simple tin can);
- an ordinary vacuum cleaner;
- The filter (new if you use disposable ones);
- a brush with a long handle;
- a special cooling plate;
- Screwdrivers (better if it will be a complete set);
- spraying device (for detergent).
All these tools will surely help you to clean the air conditioner correctly without leaving a single speck of dust
Note that the brush and rags should be clean. For rags, you should choose a cotton cloth, but by no means synthetics. this will ruin the parts of the appliance
The detergent can be a special detergent, or it can be for cleaning kitchen and bathroom surfaces. A special detergent can be purchased at the appropriate store that sells air conditioners. It is unlikely you can find it in a regular hardware store. Screwdrivers should be dry and clean. And the filters must be of high quality, make sure they are exactly the right size and free of defects.
Of course, in order to clean a home air conditioner, you need to use a special list of actions. And it looks exactly like this:
First you should get rid of the filter, which is located on the front grill. Most of the time it is disposable, so just replace it with a new. If your air conditioner has a reusable filter, however, it should be cleaned. And the best way to clean the air conditioner filter is with powder. To do this, sprinkle it on the surface of the filter and soak it in hot water for a few minutes (15 minutes is enough). After you should rinse it well with water and that’s it. the filter is clean.
The second step is to remove the front grids, which are on the front part of the air conditioner unit. Very often they are fixed from below by two clamps on springs. To remove the grids, simply press on them from the bottom on both edges and pull upwards. If the grids do not give in, then somewhere there are hidden screws that need to be found and unscrewed with a screwdriver. The next step is to remove the metal cover of the block. It is screwed with screws, you need to unscrew them and then it will not be difficult to lift the cover, thereby removing it. Be careful not to injure other parts of the appliance. Put all removed screws into container or jar, it will be more convenient if there are several jars: for outer screws and for inner ones. The fourth step is to check the fan motor, find there a hole in which the oil is poured. Practically in any conditioner there are special plugs
They are made of rubber, so take them out with great care, because the plugs can be damaged: cracked or broken. A simple sewing needle or small screwdriver is good for removing them
Try not to pour a lot of oil, it should be in the device in moderation, about 3 or 4 drops at one end of the motor housing and the same on the other. Drip the oil slowly.
The next step is to carefully remove the dust and dirt from the cooling plates. The above brush will do the job just fine here. Take your time cleaning up and down. Remember that these plates are very soft, so it is easy to damage them. After cleaning with a brush the plates should be treated with detergent from the sprayer. The applied product should last about 15 minutes, then it must be rinsed with warm water. Make sure that the water does not come in contact with other parts of the appliance. If you notice that the plates are slightly bent, you need to straighten them with a special brush. Now clean the coil itself. To do this, repeat steps 5 and 6 Pay attention to the fact that the plates can be covered with a special plastic cover, if this is the case of your air conditioner, the cover should be lifted slightly. Now you need to wipe the plates of the fan itself. A simple soft rag is perfect for this purpose Make sure that the plates are not bent, it can be detrimental to the engine. Vacuuming all exposed surfaces. It is also necessary not to forget to vacuum and under a cover of the device. Also it is necessary to clear the base from debris well. It is necessary to drain the residual water in the base and let this base to dry.
After all the work is done, it is necessary to turn on the air conditioner and check its operation. If there are no failures it means that you have done everything correctly. As you can see, cleaning the indoor unit of an air conditioner is not that easy, that’s why you should have patience.
Disassembly of external module
Dismantling mobile or window conditioner does not take much time. it is enough to take out the device from the window or take out the air duct. It is necessary to save all refrigerant while disassembling full scale split-system.
Connecting pipes that transport freon have different diameter. Thin channel serves for transportation of liquid refrigerant. Large tube is designed for pumping freon gas. When disassembling the air conditioner it is necessary to “run” the refrigerant into the outdoor unit. Then it is possible to disconnect the main ducts. In order to pump the refrigerant it is necessary to screw on the branch pipe with liquid freon that goes from the outdoor unit to the room while the unit is working. The unit will pump the gaseous substance into the outdoor unit within 1 minute. After that, you should immediately turn off the unit.
After disconnecting the unit from the electric network disconnect cables by marking the terminals.
The copper ducts that carry the refrigerant can be straightened out on their own, taking care. Together with it the electric cable is removed into the room
It is screwed to the end of the tube. Then it is necessary to unscrew the nuts that hold the external module. Two people take off the unit. Lastly brackets must be removed from the wall.
Removed outdoor unit requires vertical storage and transportation. To avoid possible damage, it is placed in a box with foam.
In some cases one only needs to take apart the outside block, for example when it is necessary to set the compressor working. The indoor unit remains in place in this case. The main task is to remove the compressor correctly:
- to dismantle the cover of the outdoor unit;
- Disconnect suction and discharge tubes;
- disconnect wiring;
- Unscrew fasteners of fan and condenser;
- Remove condenser from housing;
- Remove the compressor fasteners and the part itself.
If dismantled incorrectly, it is easy to damage the air conditioner. Possible unpleasant consequences.
Disassembling of the conditioner, which shaft is pulled out from the right side
For more details see article about air conditioner cleaning.
To reassemble the air conditioner we carry out the considered operations in the reverse order.
Thus we have got rather long, but sufficiently detailed instruction about how to disassemble the conditioner.
Disassembling the split-system
Friends! The split system is designed so that you can occasionally take the turbine out, service it, and then put it back in. So the system turned out to be repairable, but you just should know exactly, where are the screws and latches, where you should press them in order not to break anything.
Imagine I’m standing on the ladder right in front of split-system and looking at it. On the right side I have motors, all electronics and LEDs. I wrote this paragraph to make it clear which is right and which is left.
So, first thing you need to remove the housing. It is held by screws on the bottom and latches like hooks on top. But it was hard to find two screws on which the body is attached. I was looking for a long time, but I found them. They were under the plugs. First of all we lift the wing-cap on the motor with our hands (I do not know the special terminology, unfortunately). Remove the two screws and gently pry the body upwards. It comes off very easily, but probably with a click, for at the top it is hooked on three latches. hook.
The second thing we need to remove the assembly, which includes an external air gate (lid-wing) with a motor and a styrofoam tray for accumulation and drainage of condensate. It’s not held by screws, but by two specific horns that are in their grooves somewhere quite deep inside the unit. Let’s put our hands through on both sides of the tub and press down vertically. The tray and the body on which it is fastened are loosened. You can separate the assembly first on the left, then on the right
Slide the air outlet assembly with the air damper and condensate pan vertically down. You can see the specific horns on which the knot was held.
There are three serious nuances. First, the condensate drain hose is attached to the tub. It can be attached either to the left or to the right. This hose, if it will be on the left side, can interfere. Apparently, it’s going to have to be removed. I have it on the right side and it doesn’t obstruct. Secondly, this tub is hanging on the wires and can not be removed completely. The wires are extremely thin. It’s better to tie up the whole knot somehow, so you don’t tear these wires. And, thirdly, from this whole device can spill some water, that is, condensate. So you also need a pretty big rag to wipe off whatever might come out.
Then we look at the left side and see that the screw head is exposed. This is the last screw that we have to unscrew. In addition, we see the bearing assembly that holds the turbine. This bearing is rubber and is inserted as if in grooves. There is no need to touch it! Undo screw.
At this point the turbine is quite accessible and can be touched by hand. Pay attention to the right side of the turbine. This is the part where the main motor is located, the turbine that drives the. Twist the turbine by hand and find on the rightmost edge the place where the lamella is missing. Looking from below into the space created, we see that we get access to the screw that fixes the turbine on the shaft of the engine. Carefully put a screwdriver inside the turbine and unscrew the screw. But not completely. It’s going to be hard to get it back in.
Now comes the last crucial moment. We have to lift up the left side of the heat exchanger assembly. You have to take care not to cut yourself on the sharp edges. The coil is holding on some unknown and invisible latches. You have to use some force to lift it up. Lift it up by the left side.
After the heat exchanger is unhooked you need to lift it very carefully up by the left side. There is a vertical crack big enough to pull the turbine down, starting from the left edge. It may even fall out on you at all. But most likely it will get stuck somewhere half way.
We remove the rubber bearing from the shaft, take out the turbine itself and take it to the sink. Once it’s washed, we reassemble it carefully. We do it in reverse order. Work carefully so as not to damage anything. Don’t work too hard and don’t rush anywhere. Don’t forget to fix the turbine on the right side of the motor shaft. By experience, assembling the outdoor unit is much faster than disassembling it.
In the end we have to unscrew only 3 screws and loosen one screw. All the rest is on clamps.
How to disassemble the conditioner
Before you examine the inside of the air conditioner, you must be prepared for this work. To begin with it is necessary to wipe the case from a settled dust with the subsequent disconnection of the device from a direct current source. Disassembly of the unit requires special tools and materials.
What tools and materials are needed for the work?
Dismantling the internal contents of the appliance can be done using the following tools:
Besides you should provide a rag for wiping surfaces and collect excessive dust. It will not be superfluous to include in the work an industrial vacuum cleaner that can safely clean the construction from accumulated debris.
Note! Before taking off the casing of the device it is necessary to wipe it well to exclude the possibility of debris penetration inside the air conditioner elements.
How to remove the cover
Before to dismantle the split-system indoor unit one should carefully take off its front cover. It is fixed on the appliance with bolts or clips. Usually such fixtures are hidden under decorative devices. The clip elements can be removed with an ordinary thin-headed straight screwdriver. To remove the bolts of the cover, you should use an electric drill with a bit of appropriate size.
By the way, the clip elements are at the bottom and top, so you should remove each of them for easy removal of the faceplate. Next you need to remove the strainer (coarse cleaning). The plastic louvers, which can be easily removed from their slots, should then be removed from the unit. Now you can disassemble the indoor unit.
Disassembling the internal block
The true conditioning system is inside the faceplate. To remove it, open the clips on the inside and unscrew the bolts that fix the unit. Now it is necessary to pour the formed condensate into a previously prepared container. Many units have internal drainage system similar to the tray. Some models of air conditioners have a unified system of the case and the indoor unit. In such cases, you should carefully dismantle these elements together.
The algorithm of the following steps is as follows:
- Disconnect all plugs from the tray (unscrew the louver motor).
- Taking out the tray with the following disconnection of screw (latch) fixing the “tail” of the drainage hose.
- Remove the fan element (shaft).
Depending on the air conditioner model, the fan shaft can be disassembled in different ways:
Remove shaft motor and control box
This is one of the most time-consuming jobs that require attention and coordination. Remove the control box from the housing by first disconnecting the appropriate sensor wires. Then you need to unscrew screws and free the clips that fix the block. Then the self-tapping screws (4 pieces) fixing the motor housing must be unscrewed. After a thorough inspection of the structure you need to disconnect the motor from the shaft and then remove it. Most often it is necessary to bend the copper tubes going to the radiator.
Please note! Removing shaft motor and control box at the same time is very demanding and requires some skill. It is desirable to entrust these operations to professional masters-repairmen in case of such conditioner structure.
Remove the shaft by moving it to the left without removing the motor
This is a simpler way to deform the structure by unscrewing the propeller inside the shaft (not completely). Handle the tool carefully when doing this work for fear of breaking the shaft lobes and damaging the screw head. It is difficult to disassemble the screw by unscrewing it, because it is tightened sufficiently. Pulling the shaft out of the housing with a slight downward movement.
The role of the refrigerant inside the air conditioners is performed by freon connections. You can assemble them from the design in the following ways:
- Unscrew the “plugs” on the cocks with the pressure gauges connected.
- Starting the appliance in “cooling” mode, selecting the lowest temperature possible.
- Closing of the thin tube of the valve using a hexagonal wrench.
- Screwing the nut in the clockwise direction up to the stop (pressure decrease on the pressure gauge).
- When the pressure drops to “zero”, close the tap with a thick tube and turn off the conditioner.
Notice! The freon is recovered at high pressure in this way! Use of protective gloves will help to prevent from burns.
If there are sub-zero temperatures outside and there is no need to turn on the air conditioner, the procedure for collecting freon is as follows. closing both taps on the outer tray. The maximum amount of refrigerant will remain inside the structure, and the connections in the tubes will “bleed” when the fasteners are later unscrewed.
These methods will help preserve Freon inside the structure when dismantling the air conditioning system. Thanks to this it is not necessary to charge the system with the refrigerant after the repair.
How to remove the casing
Remove the housing after disconnecting the copper tubes, which are cut at a distance of 2 cm from the connector. To cut them off hermetically, you should use sharp tools that do not cause them severe deformation. It is desirable to make further for full hermetic sealing “caulking” of the formed cuts.
Further, the algorithm of the work performed is as follows:
Removal of heat-insulation
This requires a partner on the outside of the building. As a result, one of the masters should disconnect the power, followed by disconnecting the wires in the area of their connection. It is desirable to mark the disconnected terminals.
How is an air conditioner built??
The principle of air conditioner operation is known: the compressor of the outdoor unit (condensing) pumps the refrigerant vapors out of the indoor unit (evaporating), they are condensed, heated, give the heat to the environment through the radiator of the outdoor unit, then the liquid refrigerant goes to the evaporator of the indoor unit, evaporates there, absorbing the room heat, and the cycle repeats.
Construction of cam vacuum pump
From this one vulnerability is already visible. the pump of compressor of the conditioner. Operating under such severe conditions, it must be a rather complex piece of equipment. That’s right. domestic air conditioners use cam vacuum pumps. Its heart. two or three (in this case there are three cams on each rotor) rotors of complex configuration in hermetically sealed chamber, see. Fig. No additional seals, such as piston rings, gaskets, valves, etc., are fitted.п. no; the required tightness and one-way action are ensured solely by precision machining of the parts. Any other design will not give the desired performance at these temperature and pressure fluctuations.
Now it is clear why the pump is so vulnerable: the slightest scratch from dust, ice or piece of oxide from pipes. and conditioner will spend electricity for mixing the coolant, but not for cooling the premise. Because on one side of the pump. freon vapor at.70 degrees (approximately) with pressure of a fraction of atmosphere, and on the other. its condensate at 80 degrees with pressure of several atmospheres. And freon is exceptionally fluid.
It is for the safety of the pump that air conditioners are sold filled with purified pressurized inert gas (remember, it was vented during installation), and before filling the system they are evacuated to vacuum to remove water vapor. freezing in the system will give ice that will quickly put the AC out of service.
Knowing all this let us try to understand how to dismantle conditioner by ourselves and what are the risk factors.
How to dismantle aircon Daikin FTKS25 Fan coil
How to take off air conditioner with your hands
Split air conditioning system has a distributed refrigerant transport pattern between the outdoor unit and the indoor unit. Such device has many advantages, except for one. disassembling of the system is much more difficult than the monoblock. And very often not knowing how to take off conditioner with one’s own hands, leads to its breakage.
How to take air conditioner off correctly
There are three obligatory conditions for conditioner’s removal by yourself:
- Outdoor unit must be within reach. If it stands on the façade of the apartment house above the level of the second floor, one can dismantle it only from the window or from the balcony. Otherwise it is necessary to involve specialists of industrial alpinism.
- You need at least one helper to take the heavy blocks off the wall and properly shut off the compressor.
- It is necessary to rent manometric station exactly under that type of freon which is pumped in this model of the conditioner.
Note. The last point concerns stations with ordinary (pointer) pressure gauges. Digital manifolds are tuned to the brand of refrigerant.
If conditioner is out of order and can not be repaired, it is easy to take it off. there is no need to save freon, it is not important whether the compressor, condenser and evaporator are hermetically sealed.
Do not do the same thing with working conditioner. And in this case, the main thing is that no dust or even air gets inside the system. Otherwise you can talk about a guaranteed compressor failure after installation and start-up of the air conditioner at the new location. The reason is a peculiarity of vacuum pump device.
Freon is extremely fluid, and the temperature difference at the inlet and outlet reaches several tens of degrees. No gaskets or rings used in ordinary pumps and compressors can withstand this kind of usage.
Necessary tightness is reached due to extremely accurate adjustment of pump moving elements surface to the internal geometry of chambers. The slightest scratch with a solid particle will lead to compressor failure.
And such particle can be an ice speck, formed when moisture in the air inside is freezing.
That is why new conditioners are sold as filled with inert gas, which is pumped out with vacuum pump before charging the freon.
When you take out the air conditioner by yourself the freon should be pumped out and the blocks disconnected. Do it in such a way that no dust and air gets inside the system. That is to create a vacuum.
And it is desirable to save all Freon (or big part of it) so that on a new place it would be easier to put system in working condition.
To properly remove the air conditioner, the only professional equipment you need is a gauge station, which you can rent.
The rest of the tools are available to every home handyman:
How to Clean an Air Conditioner. Servicing AC at Home Without removing front cover of indoor unit.
Draining of freon
There are two ways to dismantle a working air conditioner:
- Use of a pressure gauge station to collect freon in the outdoor unit.
- Using of pumping and freon collecting station connected to a special double valve bottle. The station has its own manometric manifold and compressor for pumping out the refrigerant in liquid or gaseous state.
The first way is more “accessible”, but it can be used only while starting a conditioner. freon is transported due to regular compressor.
The second method is universal. It can be used even in winter when the air conditioner cannot be turned on because of the low temperature outside. The advantage of this method is also that the external unit will be vacuumed. without freon in the condenser. Which is much safer when transporting to a new location. But renting such a station and cylinder will cost more than an ordinary manometric manifold.
Gathering freon in the external unit
There are two fittings on the side of the outdoor unit housing from which the tubes come off:
Both fittings have shutoff valve heads under the covers. From the gas head there is a branch pipe with a nipple.
The refrigerant in the condenser is collected in the following order:
- Protective covers are removed from nipples and connectors.
- Connect the manifold to the nipple.
- Turn on air conditioner on maximum “cold”.
- After a few minutes close the valve of liquid connector, stopping the freon supply to the evaporator.
- Pressure gauge will be used to check the pressure.
- When the pointer will show “-1 MPa”, tighten the valve of gas fitting with hexagon and at once disconnect conditioner (for this purpose the assistant is needed). compressor pump can fail in long idle mode.
A pressure gauge reading of “-1 MPa” means that all freon is in the condenser and there is a technical vacuum inside the evaporator, in the tubes and in the compressor.
Dismantle the air conditioner in steps
Disassembling with keeping the conditioner’s operability is as follows:
Here are the instructions for disassembly of the wall mounted air conditioner.
To remove an external block of an air conditioner at first you disconnect pipes.
- Unscrew the cap nuts that press the rolled ends of the tubes to the flanges of the fittings of the outdoor unit. And beforehand prepared covers are screwed on in place of the nuts. Advantage. the tubes remain intact. Disadvantage. there is a big risk that the air can get into the compressor.
- We use diagonal cutters to cut the copper tubes (from the connecting part about 15 cm). Bend edges and clamp (hammer in) with a vice. The disadvantage is that it is necessary to install new tubes on a new place. The advantage is that this procedure is very fast and there is less chance that dust and air will get inside.
Note. Cap the other end of the tube to protect the evaporator of the indoor unit.
The next step is to disconnect the cables (signal and power), remove the unit from the frame on the exterior wall and lift it into the room.
Service of indoor unit of air conditioner.
Hi all! At the request of my friends and all my fellows I want to write a post about servicing of air conditioners, because it is actual at the moment (I hope the moderators will behave understandingly)! The point is that the consumer is often misled, offering to have the air conditioner serviced ANYWHERE. You don’t have to do it, because it all depends on a degree of dirtiness of a premise where conditioner is located! How to understand that cleaning is inevitable? Let’s have a look at process of cleaning of the inside block, maybe you can do this operation by yourself: So, we have a usual inside block:
At the bottom, in order not to smear the repair, we glue the film with usual masking tape:
Open the lid, remove filters and wash them under the stream of water (it can be done with any frequency, but not less than once in 2 months)!)
Now let’s take off completely the upper part of the case together with cover.
Unbuckle the tray (through it condensate gets to the outside).
and then enjoy the awful spectacle! Here we can already understand what we are breathing including a clogged air conditioner.
Here we have reached the main point I wanted to tell you about! Without opening the air conditioner you can see how dirty it is and make a conclusion if it needs to be cleaned? Note the fan impeller, which we need to clean.
We remove the fan (if possible), washed with a jet of water and a brush and clean the radiator with a steam generator VOID:
Then assemble the internal block in the reverse order! And here are those same strainers.
Turn on the remote 22-25 degrees (do not turn on the minimum never in the heat, no condenser will give you 16-17 degrees. You will stupidly destroy it!) and enjoy the coolness!
How to remove the outside unit from the wall
First of all, you must have the necessary tools. For independent removal of the conditioner you will need:
- A wrench or a gas wrench;
- Open-end wrenches and socket wrenches;
- indicator screwdriver;
- pipe cutter;
- pressure gauge or pressure gauge station.
First remove the external module. compressor and condensing unit or AHU.
Use an adjustable wrench or a wrench on the side of the AAC to open the valve plugs.
Close liquid cock of external unit. Use hex wrench.
To let all freon go to the outside unit, start the air conditioner in a cooling mode for 30-40 seconds. As soon as compressor starts to work only on suction, on valve from gas pipe connect gauge station and wait when indicators will be zeroed. Immediately shut off the freon return valve.
The system is completely de-energized. Before proceeding to the next step of removing the air conditioner from the wall, use a screwdriver to check the lack of current by inserting it into the terminal with the phase.
Now with the pipe cutter cut the freon line as it is a fixed element of the construction. Seal off the remaining ends with moisture and debris. Duct tape can be used for this.
Step 6 Carefully disconnect the drainage pipe and inter-unit wires. It is also desirable to wrap the ends of electrical wires and drainage tube with a protective material.
Step 7 Now proceed to dismantling the unit itself. How to remove a conditioner’s external block from brackets correctly? To disconnect it from the nuts and bolts use a spanner or a socket wrench. As the AHU is usually quite heavy, it is advisable to have a second person to help you.
Step 8 Remove the brackets from the surface of the building or balcony by unscrewing the locking fixtures with a socket wrench.
After conditioner is taken off the wall it is packed up. For this you need a laminated cardboard box, some Styrofoam and soft cling film on a roll of paper.
If transportation is planned for winter time, it is necessary to dismantle air conditioner from a wall not to let out all Freon. For this purpose it is obligatory to use a gauge station. But most experts advise draining the refrigerant and then completely refilling the circuit.