The question of length: How to hem pants correctly
Often, favorite brands sew pants for the average height, ignoring the fact that the same size may suit girls with height 155 cm or 180 cm. We have to wriggle out. Almost any model can be corrected, and we’ll tell you how.
How to quickly perform hemming with your own hands with a webbing
An adhesive cobweb is a semi-transparent tape with an adhesive coating on both sides. Thanks to this webbing is very convenient to use for fixing the bottom hem.
There’s a great trick. using a webbing in conjunction with the seam. First fix the trouser hem with a cobweb. Then hem more and hand countersunk stitching.
So do because from the frequent washings glue properties are lost, tucked edge comes off and soon will still have to hem it by hand.
How to cut jeans: 3 step by step master class
Jeans have long been almost the main part of a woman’s closet. This is the most universal thing, which perfectly suits any style and is generally indispensable. But even such practical things sometimes require changes or modifications. Mainly needlewomen prefer to do it themselves at home. So today we propose to figure out how to trim jeans.
Sewing machine is not in every home, but you can hem pants with your own hands using thread and a needle. The countersunk method is also used in classic clothes, where the hemming should not be visible. It is important to consider:
- iron the bottom of the finished pant leg from the inside along the edge only;
- Measurement of the required length is carried out on a person or use a finished product;
- When sewing, be sure to combine the seam of the pant leg and the tucked part.
How to hem the pants manually with a countersunk stitch? To begin with, you should measure, note how much is to be cut. Then, it is necessary:
- align the pant legs;
- Mark the length of one pant leg with a tape of centimeters on both sides, near the arrows;
- Using a ruler, draw lines from these points at right angles, connect them with a smooth curve;
- measure down 4 cm, hold the fishing line;
- Pin the pant legs together, matching the side and inside seams;
- use scissors to cut two trousers at once.
Finish the bottom of the trousers to prevent them coming undone, preferably with an overlock. In the absence of a sewing machine this is done with a hook or sew by hand. Follow up:
- Make a fold inward along the mark;
- Pinch with pins;
- Iron the bottom of the trousers from the wrong side;
- Sew with a countersunk stitch, capturing 2 threads on the pant leg and hooking them at the trimmed edge of the hem in 5 mm increments;
- turn out;
- Steam the arrows first, then iron the stitching area on the inside.
How to correctly hem women’s pants on the length? There are no special differences in technology. It is customary to leave 3 cm for bending in women instead of 4 cm in men’s version. For sewing ladies pants are often used lightweight fabrics, so suitable method using adhesive tape, which is called a spider web. It will also help those who are not good with a needle. The technology of shortening is as follows:
- Make preparatory operations, as in hemming by hand;
- Bent and steamed edge otpryladte;
- lay the cobweb tape;
- iron it with an iron.
How to mark the length?
Don’t measure the length on old jeans. After all, during wear the thing could deform. So the length of her pants may be different.
- Wear your new jeans with shoes and belt.
- Look at yourself in the mirror from the side.
- Turn the jeans inward and pin the hem.
Adjust the mid-calf length of your jeans to the heel. Narrow jeans need to be flattered above it. Try letting half of your flared jeans cover your heels.
How to hem jeans and make scuffs: a master class
If you at least once shortened jeans with their own hands, you probably faced this problem: the finished seam because of the lack of scuffing looks flat. There are different ways to avoid this: for example, you can hem your jeans keeping the factory seam, or try using some abrasive material like emery cloth. The way described in this master class is a little different. Scuffs here are simulated with acrylic paint for textiles. This takes a little more time, but the result is good and there’s no chance of damaging the seam, as happens with abrasive stitching.
Use acrylic for textiles and a denim machine needle.
How to shorten your jeans and keep the inseam in place
You will need:
How to hem jeans by hand double-needle stitching
Try on your jeans, determine the length you want and mark on one of the pant legs.
Align your jeans so they are folded evenly in half, align the edges of the waistband and staple the jeans with pins, securing the top edge.
Straighten the pant legs and align and line up the inside and outside seams.
Above the marker, pin the pant legs. Run a fishing line at the level of the marker perpendicular to the side seam.
From the drawn line, set aside the distance needed for the seam allowance. We will twist the edge of the pant leg twice: this distance should be equal to the width of the tuck you need x2. In our case the width of the hem is 1,3 cm, put aside 2,6 cm. Place a mark and at its level, draw a line parallel to the first one.
Cut the pant leg at the bottom line. Remove all the pins.
Cut the seam allowances with a corner and trim the thick places at the seams, as shown in the photo. Be careful: the cut out areas should be able to be hidden by the tuck later on. We do this to reduce the overall thickness of the seam and make it easier for the sewing machine to work.
If we want to imitate a roughened appearance, it is better not to trace the lining, so that the edge does not appear flat. So we’ll take note of them. First, we tuck the edges of the pants inward by 1.3 cm and stitch.
Then fold the hem one more time and iron over the fold again.
To make the thickest areas flatter, tap them with a hammer. This will help get them through the machine easier.
Sew the hems 1 to 2 mm back from the fold.
Cover the work surface with plastic wrap and use a spray gun to moisten the bottom of the pants. The cloth should not be quite damp, but rather moderately damp.
This step will work for you if you used thread the color of your jeans for your stitching. In our case, the jeans are stitched with a dark blue thread, and we used a similar thread for the bottoms of the pants. So the paint in the color of the denim will not change the color of the stitching. It will be possible to darken the seam area. Pick colors that match your fabric (I mixed some blue, purple and black paint) and dilute them with water. To be on the safe side, you may want to test the dye on a couple of cutoff pieces of your pant leg.
Using a brush, apply the diluted paint a little at a time to the seam area.
Now you need to let the paint and the jeans dry. Wait until it dries, otherwise the result may not be what we are aiming for, as the white and dark paint will mix and may give a muddy hue. To speed up drying, you can use a hair dryer.
To imitate scuffs, the resulting lapel should be pulled up. Use a thick, strong, double folded thread and a hand needle. First, sew the stitches along the stitching with which the lapel is sewn. Stitch about 0.5 cm long. Don’t try to make them even and exactly the same. Once finished, secure the thread.
Repeat, this time running the stitches along the bottom edge of the hem.
Moisten the bottom of the pant legs again. Prepare the white paint. It does not need to be diluted with water. Use the brush to get a little paint and remove the excess so that the brush is semi-dry.
How to Cut and Hem Jeans on Sewing Machine
Lightly stroke the brush over the protruding tuck areas. Repeat on the wrong side.
Then slightly bend the hem inward and brush over the folded area.
Allow the jeans to dry. When the paint dries, you can remove the stitching, assess the result and add a little paint if necessary (and dry again). Done.
Sewing by hand
In the absence of a sewing machine to hem jeans will be more difficult, especially if you needleworker is not very experienced.
The main difficulty is to make an even and strong stitching. After all, denim is a fairly dense material that is difficult to work with. So you’ll need a needle and thread and a thimble.
The first step is to measure and cut the jeans. Here you need to do everything as we described in the previous section. After that, from the cut off the bottom of the pant, cut a piece with a factory seam. then we only need it.
Now turn your jeans inside out and start sewing the “native” hemming to the trimmed edge of the product. It is best to sew with the simplest linen stitch (also called French stitch). The new seam needs to be threaded along the edge, so the fabric doesn’t fall out.
Take an iron, and steam the bottom of the trousers well on both sides. After that, the junction point between the edge of the trousers and the factory hemming will be almost invisible.
Flared and tapered pants are much more difficult to hemmed in this way, because the width of the pant legs and the trimmed factory seam will not match. In the first case, you will need to rip the hems on the side seam and remove the excess fabric, and in the second case. expand the bottom with inserts of the same material.
Processing the bottom edge is not very difficult for the novice craftsman, allows you to save on the price of services in the studio. For this you need an ordinary sewing machine. Even a rarity model, left over from your grandmother, will do. Thread used for sewing should match the color of fabric or decorative trim. This material is better to pick up right after buying the thing. The thickness should be just enough for the machine to hem the garment. You can’t mimic factory stitching. You can rub the seams with pumice stone to give your jeans a shabby look.
Before you hem your jeans, you should correctly measure the length as finished. Do the following:
- Put the item on.
- Stand without shoes in front of a big mirror.
- Tuck the excess inward, secure with pins or needles. The fishing line fold should be near your heels at floor level. If your shoes have a heel, you can hem the garment by leaving it longer.
- Put on your shoes, check the result. Correct it if necessary.
How to cut and hem a pair of jeans correctly? Your steps:
- Lay the item out on a flat surface, smoothing lengthwise and crosswise.
- Length your jeans to the final length, using soap and a ruler.
- Draw 1 cm down. Draw a second line.
- Measure down an extra 1 cm before you cut the jeans. Draw a third line.
- Trim both pant legs.
- Turn the garment to be cut inside out.
- Make hemming along the first line, then along the second.
- Sew by hand.
- Sew even stitches.
How to cut our jeans and keep the inseam in place
Often. When shopping for a pair of jeans. We find we need to shorten the length of our jeans to suit our tastes. You don’t want to lose the original factory stitching. the bottoms of your pants are often finished with unusual decorative stitching or scuff marks.
Length your jeans and mark the new hemline with a tailor’s crayon or pins.
You’ll have a crease on the wrong side.
Use a ruler to straighten out the fold, so that the distance from the factory hem to the new hem line is the same, and secure it with pins.
Sew as close to the hemmed bottom as possible.
Please note: the side seams and the inside seams should be aligned as evenly as possible, otherwise the bottom of the piece will look ugly and untidy!
Trim the fold, leaving an allowance of 1-1.5 cm. Overcast the seam edges or use a zigzag stitching machine.
All we have to do is fold down the hems and hem up the seam allowance. Secure the seam allowance with a finishing stitch or stitch 1 to 2 mm away from the seam with thread to match or contrast, depending on your preference.
The same way you can hem corduroy pants.
We measure the desired length, align the new bottom line with the finishing stitching, line up the hem, stitching close to the edge of the factory hem, trim and overcast the seam allowance.
Unwind, baste the seam allowance upwards and secure with a finishing stitch into the seam (if you want it to be invisible) or 1-2 mm away from the seam.