How to make a melting furnace with their own hands

Tin cans and other scrap. for recyclable materials How to make a melting furnace for aluminium with your own hands

Aluminum alloys have a low melting point and good machinability. And there is always plenty of scrap aluminum in the household.

Therefore, aluminum is often smelted at home to replace non-standard or small parts of mechanisms: cast a billet, and then work it on a lathe. Sometimes aluminum is used to make handmade souvenirs and small interior items.

Circuit cooling

Industrial smelters are equipped with a forced cooling system using water or antifreeze. Performing water cooling at home will require additional costs comparable in price to the cost of the unit itself for melting metal.

Air cooling with a fan can be accomplished if the fan is far enough away. Otherwise, the metal winding and other elements of the fan will serve as an additional circuit for the closure of eddy currents, which will reduce the efficiency of the installation.

Components of electronic and lamp circuits can also heat up actively. Heat sinks are used for cooling.

Induction furnace for melting metal where to buy and prices

make, melting, furnace, their, hands

Copper smelting

The material foam concrete can be used at home to smelt copper. Cut out of this material 2 cylinders with a diameter of 100 mm. The height of one is 100 mm and the other 15 mm. Putting one on top of the other, a hole with a diameter of 15 mm is drilled in the middle. In the large cylinder, in the middle, a hole is made in the form of a funnel to a depth of 85 mm. In the middle of the cylinder, on the outer side, a groove is cut and a wire tie is made. This is to ensure that the piece does not collapse from the temperature of.

On the gas stove, there is an adapter. A larger cylinder is placed on top, so that the cone funnel is directed upwards. The top is covered with a small cylinder with a hole. Lighting a torch, lower a piece of copper rod into the small hole until it hits the wall of the funnel. In a minute, the rod will melt.

kak_eto_sdelano

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It all started when I needed a furnace for. any. I wanted to melt and roast steel and burn my hands, the whole kit, in short. I decided to take the easy way and ordered a similar one from ali for 10k (5k shipping):

Worked exactly two melts _ after which the spiral leaked and damaged the muffle:

In general I would strongly advise against buying furnaces from the Chinese, they die at a moment’s notice. However, I was able to get a full refund, ali sided with me. But not including shipping. I kinda lost 5 grand, but I still have what was left of the furnace, namely a graphite crucible, a bunch of refractories, a thermocouple and regulator, and fancy tongs. In the end almost a draw, I guess.

The stove is dead, long live the new stove!I built this one myself with these:Fireclay bricks SHL. 1 (I think, I do not remember exactly what number):

Needed exactly lightweight fireclay, as it’s very convenient to cut helix grooves in, and it’s also really light (brittle, on the other hand). We cut grooves in 4 bricks so that there is a spiral, rising from the bottom up, to lay into this spiral, already another spiral of fehral. I made the bottom out of a couple of these bricks, and cut a couple more into plugs in the corners of the stove. Glue everything in place can be fireproof composition for masonry fireplaces and stoves, fireproof sealant, or fireproof glue as well.

Then you need fechral, or better super fechral. Nichrome is not suitable, it burns out in contact with the air. I bought in Novosib such a roll (what’s on top do not pay attention):

Sell it by weight and there are 3 kg, the specific resistance of this wire 1.78 µOhm per meter. The calculation of the required length of wire is very simple: the square of the voltage divided by the power (I needed 1.5 kW) and the specific resistance. So in my case: 220220/1500 = 32 Ohm. 32/1.78=18 meters. In total, we take 18 meters of wire and wind it on some rod of the desired diameter. That it fits well into the grooves sawed into the bricks. Fast winding can be done, for example, with an electric screwdriver. I coiled by hand %-)Spiral will need to stretch so that the coils do not touch each other and put into the grooves

The denser the coil is in the grooves and corners, the better. The ferrules get softer when heated and can sag and fall out of the troughs. The outside of the coil comes out the top and bottom (in the photo above you can see the output from the top). It is worth halving the outputs so that the wire does not heat up too much. I connected the ends with copper wire to the electronic remains of the Chinese stove. I won’t disassemble my furnace to take pictures of them, but these regulators are sold in major radio component stores. They look something like this (left):

In principle it is already possible to switch on and everything, in theory, will work (for melting of aluminum should be enough). However, with more or less prolonged use, there will be a lot of heat loss and you won’t get the temperature to melt copper, for example. In this case mullite silica wool, the same kind of felt or some ceramic wool will help. All this stuff is sold in online stores of refractories and is quite affordable per kg. It should be wrapped around the working chamber and in general all the holes should be plugged with it, so that the heat does not escape from the chamber. The lid should be made of lightweight chamotte and a lot of absorbent cotton, so that it would fit better %-) In short it is better to make the chamber as isolated as possible from the outside world.

I, however, still can’t get my hands to the lid, so I just put the ceramic wool from the Chinese stove in three layers on top (at 1000 degrees inside you can easily press the wool on top with an unprotected hand).Oh yeah, I forgot something. mullite silica wool soaked in some oily stuff to make it easier to lay. When heated, it burns out and smells quite perceptible, at first the wool will be smoky, then normal.

One more thing. the thermocouple (aka thermometer) definitely should not be placed on top, like mine. The thing is that in this position it lies about the temperature, shows, in my case, about 100 degrees lower than in the work area, where the workpiece hangs in the photo above.

And, of course, keep in mind that there is current flowing through the coil. Before you get into the furnace, you should turn off the power or be extremely careful not to touch the coil under voltage.

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How to make a smelting furnace-horn from a bucket with their own hands

Dear visitors site samodelkin a friend today we will look at how to make a forge furnace-horn to melt aluminum from a bucket with his hands. This oven is fairly simple to make and for its creation will require a minimum of materials, namely an old and unnecessary bucket 10-15 or 20 liters (depending on how much power you want to make a melting furnace, horn) Just be sure to need gypsum and sand, a mixture of 1/2 will form the walls of the furnace, the mixture is put inside a bucket forming the bottom thickness of 3-5 cm, then put the punch (for example a small plastic bucket, to form a cavity in the mortar) then build the walls that there was no cavity and air cushion.

In the bottom of the melting furnace for aluminum, place the metal nozzle 16 or 22 (depending on the volume of the bucket) through which the air will be blown to the burning coals. The PVC pipe connected to the ordinary hair dryer will be used for forcing the air into the combustion chamber.

The crucible for melting aluminum is traditionally made from an old metal fire extinguisher, by cutting off its top. The crucible should enter freely into the furnace cavity, not forgetting the fact that along the edges there should be placed coal. Aluminum melting point is 660° C molten metal in the furnace is poured into the previously prepared metal forms (make sure they are dry). ) If you pour red-hot metal into a damp mold, the consequences will be dire, because the aluminum will fly around! FOLLOW THE SAFETY RULES!

Let’s see how to make a melting furnace for melting aluminum from a bucket with your own hands?

make, melting, furnace, their, hands
  • Metal bucket 10-20 L
  • gypsum
  • sand
  • drain
  • PVC pipe
  • hair dryer
  • used fire extinguisher (to make a crucible)

Step by step instructions for creating a melting furnace from a bucket with their own hands.

We take an old and unnecessary household bucket, preferably made of simple black metal NOT GINGED! Because the zinc when heated will release fumes and oxides, which you will inhale while working nearby. Instant damage of course will not be, but in the future may affect health, so take a simple bucket of black metal, will not miscalculate. Then the given bucket should be filled with a plaster and sand mixture, and it is better to use a special masonry mix, as an example you can read and watch our article How to make a fireplace from a tin can there just the master took it masonry mix (photo of packing is presented) Also it is necessary to have a metal water pipe pig, which will be placed in the bottom and through it will be pumping air into the combustion chamber of coal. An ordinary hair dryer provides the airflow. Adapter. PVC pipe for connecting hair dryer and melting furnace. Shape the furnace cavity with a small plastic bucket. First you lay out the bottom of the furnace 3-5 cm thick, then the walls, and you have 15-20 minutes for all this until the plaster begins to solidify. Mix the gypsum and the sand in the ratio of 1/2 and bring to a homogenous mass. Let it dry as it should be, connect the hair dryer, pour the charcoal and ignite it, it is better to do it with the kindling fluid. Put a crucible inside (made from a used fire extinguisher) in the crucible we put aluminum scrap, we can put beer and lemonade cans. Focus! Make sure there is no water in the cans and they are dry, because if there is a sudden drop in temperature aluminum can jump out of the furnace))) From the resulting aluminum can be cast a variety of blanks, any shape, here it all depends on your imagination, as well as interests. For example, some guys cast aluminum billets, and then bored on a lathe pulleys for mini-tractors and cars. So you can cast all sorts of figures, figurines, coats of arms, cockades, etc.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

For casting more serious parts for the car will need a bigger mill, but you have a sample and you decide what you will cast, small toys or parts for machinery. We hope our material was useful to you, thank you for your attention.

Furnace for melting aluminum (Part I. Preparing the base of the furnace)

Who follows my blog, probably remember, about my COMPRESSOR For a long time, I did not write anything about it, so as to write, especially there was nothing. It works, no problems observed. The only thing that was a little bit unsatisfactory was the fact that the calculated value of the power output, did not correspond to the actual. The explanation is simple. the speed of the pulleys of the two compressors is: the first. 1650 rpm., The second one has 1750 rpm. Raising the speed means changing at least two pairs of pulleys. And they’re just not available in that size.Therefore, I have long set the goal, to put the third compressor from the ZIL 131 on the same compressor frame and to spin it from the same engine.Since I had plenty of compressors, thanks to Azat, aka Yasny for that. it was decided to equip the rig with this compressor.The problem came “out of the blue”. I need a pair of pulleys on the engine and the compressor.Considering the fact that there is not much space, they should not be standard size. I’ll have to make it to order.After talking to turners of all levels, it turned out that to turn a one-arm pulley costs 300 But the bolt is made of color. A meth of this diameter costs 3-5 thousand. 🙁

It was decided to make the pulleys with our own hands and for the pulleys to spend only 300

The beginning as always is standard: In the junk we take unnecessary gas cylinder

According to the old scheme, saw his head (on the top edge) and do not throw away. it’s our cover.

We sawed off the upper part of the lid (faucet) with an angle grinder and welded a piece of pipe of the same diameter

If we put the lid on, it looks like this

Again we take off the lid and weld in the armored band.

Put the lid on the bottle on a hinge with offset sleeve. when you rotate the lid, it should rise 1-2 cm from the edge of the bottle.

In the rough draft the furnace lid opens like this

Next, we take on the shelf a meter-long 5-liter plastic bottle and put it into the same cylinder.

We center everything with the help of the springs from the same mesh

Then we leave everything as it is and prepare the plaster mix.There are a lot of proportions of refractory mixes on the Internet. I made everything from what I had.I bought 25 kg. gypsum construction GV-5, 10 kg of refractory mix (left over from masonry stove on the waste), sand about 1 bucket and 20 liters of water.We mix it all with a construction mixer (quickly, so the gypsum doesn’t get too thick) and pour it into our future stove

Half an hour after the pouring, before cement cures completely, remove excess cement and trim the edges.

Carefully we take out a bottle (by punching holes in it, letting out air, crumpling and taking it out into the light).

Then we close everything and fill the container with hot air for an hour and a half with a construction dryer.

If you are not using refractory, you can not heat, but as I have it in the cement. heating is necessary, as the base of the mixture hardens at a temperature of 100-120 degrees.Opening the lid from time to time, watching the moisture evaporate from the cement

Drying time of our product 2-3 daysSo, for now we forget about it and go to the aluminum.At a guess about 10 kg of aluminum junk was found in the junk.

That’s all for now Later we will weld the furnace ventilation system and do a test run Well, good luck.

Helpful hints

It is necessary to comply with fire safety, the casting process involves the use of open flame. It is important to use personal protective equipment: gloves, goggles.

Melting furnace with their own hands

Dear visitors to the site samodelkin a friend of the material provided you will learn how to make their own melting furnace for melting aluminum and other fusible metals with their own hands. For remelting fusible metals such as aluminum, tin, brass, lead, copper is quite possible to make a homemade furnace or furnace furnace The best fuel for such a furnace is liquefied propane gas, capable for a short period of time to heat up the inside of the fire chamber more than 1000 ° and it is more than enough to melt aluminum scrap and remelt it into blanks, for example, can do pulleys, casters, and much more)

This furnace is made of several parts-a metal housing with a lid that has a hole for laying scrap into the crucible, inside of the two layers of insulation, the first mineral wool and ceramic blanket (can withstand high temperatures) Inside this chamber is placed crucible in which the melting of metal. In the side part there is a hole and a socket with 4 mounting elements is welded, it is needed for fixation of the gas burner nozzle during furnace operation. The crucible in such a furnace is placed exactly in the center, the molten metal is taken from it with a special ladle and poured into pre-prepared forms.

And so, let us look at the process of assembling the furnace in more detail.

DIY Metal Melting Furnace at Home l Homemade Metal Foundry l

  • square profiled pipe
  • sheet metal 1,5 mm
  • crucible
  • Gas burner with propane bottle
  • mineral wool
  • ceramic blanket
  • Wheels 4 pcs

Step by step instructions for creating a melting furnace with their own hands.

With the help of a pipe bender 4 rings were bent from prof tubes with a square cross section. Then the metal base of the furnace itself is made, with a lid. Lid of melting furnace. There is a neck like this, through which you can do scrap metal directly into the crucible. The body of the furnace inside has 2 layers of insulation. mineral wool and ceramic blanket. At the bottom of the furnace there is a welded socket, it is necessary to fix the gas burner nozzle during the melting furnace operation. Temperature measurement. The molten metal. Pouring the sand mold with aluminum. Here are the samples obtained) Home-made melting furnace is additionally equipped with a frame with 4 wheels, which allows you to transport it around the garage or workshop. Additionally there is an electronic thermometer for determining the temperature inside the furnace. Detailed video instruction from the author, here is more finely covered all the main points from the beginning to the melting of products. Have a nice view.

Installing the thermocouple

We then measured and drilled a hole for the thermocouple.

The temperature is measured only 1″ from the tip of the thermocouple, so we wanted to position this area closer to the foundry floor to get the most accurate reading.

We made a small lever with a small adjustment to set the thermocouple. After that, they closed the hull.

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