How to make a warm floor in a pre-bathroom

Using infrared underfloor heating in the sauna

make, warm, floor, pre-bathroom

It is almost impossible to imagine Russian life without a bath today, even despite the fact that Finnish saunas have become popular. The only thing that slightly clouds the impressions from the visit is the difference in temperature in the steam room and the anteroom.

To step on the cold tiles gives no pleasure. To solve this problem, many experienced construction crews recommend laying infrared underfloor heating in the bath. In this connection there are several questions.

Pre-bath functions

This room in the bath can perform different functions, but the main ones are as follows:

  • After the Steam Room Bathing. Everyone knows that after the steam bath it is necessary to take a dip in or pour cold water, as it has a positive effect on human health. If there is no pool in the bathhouse you can pour water from the barrel in the anteroom.
  • Shower room. There you can wash off the dust in a day and do not have to go to the sauna.
  • Storage of utensils. It is possible to store chuikas, washers, brooms and other things.

Because this room should be built as comfortable and warm as possible, so it was possible to rest there after the steam room, drink tea or pour ice water.

Is it possible to do the water floor in the bath??

The device of a warm water heating of a floor in a bath is not only expedient, but also the necessary decision. Unlike infrared and electric floors, the use of water heating system is completely safe.

It is possible to lay the contour under the tiles and get a warm base without additional energy costs. Heating the coolant will be from a boiler, steel or brick stove.

What are the advantages of this solution?

    The circuit is mounted inside the screed, does not reduce the usable area.

Another undoubted advantage, it is possible to lay warm water floor heating systems in the bath with their own hands. Although the installation process is labor-intensive, but the result will fully meet all expectations.

Pre-bath functions

This room in the bath can perform different functions, but the main ones are as follows

  • Water procedures after the steam room. Everyone knows that after the steam room should dip into cold water, as it has a positive impact on human health. If there is no pool in the bathhouse, you can pour water from the barrel in the anteroom.
  • Showers. There you can wash off the dust from the day and not necessarily go to the sauna.
  • Storage of utensils. You can store stoves, brooms, brooms, etc.

So this room should be built as comfortable and warm as possible, so you can rest there after the steam room, drink tea or poured ice water.

How to make a warm floor in the anteroom with your own hands

The Russian bathhouse requires a warm anteroom where you can relax after a good steam bath. Cosy anteroom reliably protects the steam room from the cold air, but also serves as a cosy room for quiet pastime. One of the positive factors for this is a warm floor in the anteroom. How to properly make it and what materials will be needed for this. in our article.

With the right design and reasonable arrangement of the room, it is possible to achieve harmony for the entire sauna. Increased comfort contributes to the observance of such norms:

  • looks harmoniously lined steam room and pre-bathroom, made in the same style;
  • Maximum thermal insulation makes it possible to maintain a stable temperature in the anteroom for a long time
  • Properly organized ventilation helps to get rid of condensation.

Wall insulation is provided by traditional synthetic materials with a minimum thermal conductivity coefficient. Most of them come with a foil backing.

The floor indoors is one of the coolest areas, with temperatures that hardly ever rise above 30 0 C. For insulation of the floor of the pre-bath is possible to use almost any material:

It is desirable to provide a slope in the room for the outflow of excess moisture. Therefore, before you insulate the floor in the anteroom with your own hands, it is worth to have a construction level.

Do not use in covering the floor synthetic fusible materials, such as linoleum. It can under the influence of high temperatures to melt and emit toxic odors that are harmful to health.

Plan on whether it is necessary to insulate the floor in the pre-bath or, on the contrary, how to make the floor in the pre-bath warm, it is necessary to have before the beginning of all construction work. This is due to the fact that under each type of insulation is carried out auxiliary work associated with the installation of different types of insulation.

The most comfortable to use in the bath and pre-bathroom during the installation of the floor such species of trees as larch, fir, pine, spruce. Conifers for the floor are the most rational, as they include a certain percentage of tree resin. It to some extent extends the life of the floors in the pre-bathroom, laid with their own hands. There are two varieties of wood flooring:

In the first case, form the basis of wooden lag, recessed in a concrete pour or in the clay. The upper part consists of wooden flooring. In this case, the coating should have a slight slope to the middle or under a certain side. At the minimum point should remain a hole with a grid, providing the drainage of excess moisture into the sewer or makeshift settling tank.

Such floors in the pre-bathroom made of wood are the simplest version of the execution. But the construction has certain disadvantages. The decking is short-lived, and will also be quite cool.

Most often, the owners of baths wonder how to make the floor in the pre-bath leaking. For this purpose, layers of sand and gravel are poured, on which a concrete screed is poured. This respects the formation of the slope of the surface to the previously prepared gutter. It is designed as a concrete or brick ring.

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Eggs are placed on special posts, and a plank panel with a 5-7 mm gap between the individual elements is punched on top of them. This will ensure the passage of excess moisture and will not block the exit when the wood swells.

Before you insulate the floor in the anteroom, you need to decide on the main heat carrier. For baths in which it is possible to install a boiler, it will be appropriate to equip the anteroom with water distribution of the type “warm floor”. Hot water intake is carried out from the boiler, and installation must be done in advance.

Pipes of such materials are used for it:

As the coolant is often either water or ethylene glycol.

For baths that are located in a freestanding building and used irregularly, it is recommended to fill the system with liquids with a reduced freezing point (alcoholic liquids), so as not to subject the entire system to over-freezing.

For laying use a pre-levelled surface, covered with heat insulators, vapor insulators and insulators, not allowing heat to leak simply into the ground. When covering the outer layer of the floor in the anteroom, adhesive-backed material or normal concrete is used.

The convenience of such a design is obvious, but the disadvantages include the impossibility of repair or preventive work. Also there is no visual control over the condition of the poured concrete pipes. The final layer is often a ceramic tile.

It is not uncommon to see electric underfloor heating in the anteroom of a frame bath or other type of a steam room. It can be of two types:

For cable heating, you will need a material that gives out heat about 250 W per m 2. The construction does not use water or other liquids as a heat carrier. It is the cable that heats. It is laid out on a flat surface by hinges or in the form of a snail without overlapping each other, and then filled with a concrete screed 3-5 cm high.

The thermostat on the wall is used to control the temperature. The heating process starts as soon as it is plugged in. This lack of inertness increases the efficiency of the system. The disadvantage of electric underfloor heating in the staircase is the high power consumption.

Using the film for heating is relevant in cases where it is not possible to use the concrete casting, although the use of such a layer is acceptable. The film is fixed to any surface with masking tape. Protect the electrical part from the effects of moisture will be possible with a waterproofing layer laid on top of the floor heating in the pre-bath, installed with your own hands.

Even in case of failure of one of the elements of the electrical system with the use of foil floors, the rest of the system will function normally.

An excellent way not only to protect feet from the cold, but even to protect the skin from burns. In most cases the bath mats are made of natural materials: felt, wool, etc.д. The size for the steam room should match the bench so that several people can fit on it at once, or buy one for each person separately.

As for the washroom, here, too, will be very relevant coating made of felt, but it is better to choose the one that is made on a rubber base. Such mats are very easy to wash, relatively quickly dry out and do not let your feet get cold, even if the floor is not insulated well enough.

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In the pre-bathroom will also be relevant felt (we give it all the time for example, since the cost of felt in 1,5-2 times cheaper than wool) on a rubber base. Rubber acts as an additional insulator in this case. In addition, such covers are very easy to clean with a broom or vacuum cleaner at the end of bathing procedures.

After the end of the bath, the mats are necessarily disinfected. Ideally, it should be treated with an alcoholic compound and dried in the sun (summer and spring). In winter, still wet carpet is treated with alcohol or disinfectant, after drying again pass.

Construction of the anteroom is a responsible occupation: it depends on the heat in the bath, and hence the health of loved ones. Properly performed work with finishing and insulation, as well as ventilation significantly affects the temperature in it. In this article we will find out how to build and make insulation of the anteroom with your own hands and how to insulate the floor safely and for years.

Before you make a pre-bath with your own hands, make a calculation of the materials that will be needed for the work. Traditional Russian baths are built of wood, and the same material is taken before the anteroom is added. It is treated with antiseptic in 2-3 layers. If this is not done, the restroom will be covered with mold and mildew in a short time. It is recommended to treat wood with fire-fighting compounds, since fires in the bathhouse are not uncommon.

As insulators for the pre-bath are used moisture-resistant materials of inorganic origin. Inorganic materials are very resistant to water, unlike organic materials. Better to insulate with rock wool, polyurethane foam, plastic foam, glass wool, polystyrene foam, etc. д. Polyurethane foam is the best material for insulation, as it is durable, has high moisture resistance, fire resistance, noticeably insulates and evens out sharp temperature drops.

When deciding how to make a pre-bathroom can not do without a drawing. Well thought-out project not only helps in the work, but also prevents possible errors in measuring the area and calculation of materials. To calculate the area of the pre-bath from the inside, use the principle of 1.3 m^2 per 1 person. Standard area of the room is 1.4×2.3 m^2.

Mounting the foundation begins with the removal of the top layer of soil.

At this stage, we highlight the following steps:

  • excavate a 0.5 m deep and 0.3 m wide trench;
  • filling the trench with tamped sand;
  • Installing the formwork;
  • place in the resulting structure reinforcement 0.8-1 cm, at the edges of which are fixed galvanized steel pins;
  • Concrete.

After the concrete has dried completely, lay a roofing felt. Now you can attach the pre-bathroom itself.

To install the timber frame, follow the algorithm:

  • install the bottom strapping made of 10 cm2 beams;
  • fix the corner posts, checking them for accuracy with a construction level;
  • Install the intermediate props;
  • Install the upper strapping of beams (section 10 cm);
  • Fix the corner braces for stiffness of the building;
  • fix the joists from unedged boards;
  • fasten the boards for the frame of the door and window openings;
  • Nail the wind- and waterproofing membrane onto the frame;
  • make the outer skin.
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In the room air circulates at the expense of openings. window and door. There are different opinions on how to install windows and doors in the anteroom. One number of experts believe that the pre-bath needs large windows for additional ventilation.

Others recommend not to install windows or to make them very small, so that no heat escapes.When planning the pre-bath you can include windows in your project, or you can do without them.

But, anyway, to maintain the microclimate in the steam room you need to make vents. Ventilation plugs must fit tightly to the vent, and in the closed position absolutely do not let air in.

The bathtub would become much cozier if the floors were insulated. The installation of the warm floor in the staircase is usually made of wood with the use of heat-insulating materials.

There are now several options for insulating the floor in the pre-bathroom. There are several options:

This type of flooring is a certain tape, cable or heating special film, which, by converting the current flowing through them, give heat.

Installation of such floors is carried out in several stages:

  • Pour gravel or crushed stone on the prepared ground to a thickness of 15 cm, then thoroughly tamp it down;
  • form the basis;
  • then concrete is poured to a thickness of 5-7 cm;
  • Then there is reinforcement and pouring of mortar;
  • When the mortar has dried, the pre-bath floor is installed;
  • in the final part of the work once again make the pouring and tiling.

The preparation process itself is not complicated, but the direct installation of the system is still better to entrust the professionals. This will avoid mistakes that are unacceptable in this case: if there is even a local breakdown of the system, it will not be possible to get to it anymore.

Ceramic tile is considered an excellent cladding for electric underfloor heating. First, it is practical and beautiful, and the heating system does not allow it to be cold.

This type of floor heating on the type of laying are of two types: flooring and concrete. In both cases, the heating element is a pipe filled with hot water. Now for these systems are successfully used plastic pipes or, alternatively, metal-plastic.

The peculiarity of their installation is the possibility to create a completely leak-proof system, which practically excludes any breakages. This system works perfectly in wooden houses and baths. These materials are non-toxic, very hygienic and inert to water. At the same time the warranty period of their service. more than 50 years.

For heating, you can also use not only water, for this purpose are suitable coolants:

For the sake of reducing heat losses, the pipes should be laid on top of a layer of thermal insulation material. To increase the heat output. placed on the foil. They are installed in two ways. “snail” or “snake”.”Snail” distributes heat more evenly. “Snake” is easier to lay.

Further arrangement is usually in 2 variants:

  • use polystyrene plates, equipped with grooves, and lay pipes over them;
  • Lay the floor on a wooden base;
  • Make installation of pipes and cover with concrete screed.

This heating system works due to the properties of natural heat, which is an infrared radiation spectrum. This kind of flooring in the pre-bathroom is usually done with a film into which heating elements are soldered.

It is network powered, so you must be prepared for the extra cost of power consumption. The good news is that it is easy to turn them on and off as needed.

Mounting such floors is easiest: the film is placed on the ground over the entire surface of the pre-bathroom. A wooden deck is placed on top.

After warming is finished, you can start facing the anteroom. Usually it is trimmed with wooden linings, taking into account the unique design and style of the bathhouse. When covering the floor, firstly timbers are put on the damp-proofing layer. Again, all wood should be treated with a water repellent solution.

Fix the floorboard to the joists with self-tapping screws on the tongue and groove system. It is not superfluous to install a rubber cover over the floorboards. Once the floor is lined, proceed to cover the ceiling and then the walls. Walls can be clad in different ways. For example, you can clad the timber horizontally, vertically, or diagonally. This is where your imagination comes in.

Trim on the outside of the bath must match the style of the whole finish of the bath. Beautiful and aesthetically beautiful look without additional finishing wooden frame structures. Therefore, the framework of the bath can be left as is. Varnish coating is an important finishing stage in the work with the outer surface.

The finished sauna anteroom must be caulked and all planks must be thoroughly sanded. After sanding it is recommended to varnish the wood or use a special paint.

When choosing a paint, we stop at the one that is designed for exterior work on the wooden surface. Insulation and proper ventilation of the pre-bath maintain a favorable microclimate in the steam room. Because of the high humidity in the bath, do not forget that organic materials need to be treated with moisture-resistant compounds.

What should be the floor in the steam room

The specific operating conditions of the steam room require compliance with requirements that make it comfortable and safe to use the sauna

In order for the floors of the room to serve their purpose, it is important that they are warm

When constructing the floorboards it is necessary to fit them so that the surface was solid, as the presence of gaps is not allowed. It is necessary to create a certain slope towards the drain, and the flooring should preferably be lightweight and with the ability to quickly dismantle.

Due to the fact that the humidity level in the room of the steam room is high, greatly increases the risk of rotting the floor. Therefore, a high plinth with watertight properties should be used.

Using materials of synthetic origin at high temperatures is not allowed due to the allocation of toxic substances by heating. When making a concrete floor, you need to make a sand-and-rubble base and install a thermal insulation layer.

Removing moist air and drying the floors requires the creation of ventilation in the foundation. Constant ventilation of the floor will not allow unpleasant odors and rotting wood.

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Floor in the steam room

Peculiarities of production

Preparation of the floor in the anteroom begins with preparing the work site. The first step. the removal of all vegetation on the ground and excavating to a depth of 15-20 cm. Next, the surface of the ground is thoroughly tamped, and the depression is filled with a cushion of sand and gravel with compaction. The surface is leveled, and then the first layer of waterproofing (usually made of roofing felt) is laid.

The wooden joists are made of 10-15 cm thick bar. During the laying they are lifted from the surface to a height of 8-10 cm, for which concrete pillars, bricks or stone are used. The level of the beams is carefully leveled with a construction level. The spacing depends on the size of the room and is within 40-60 cm. Before the laying they are impregnated with rot-proofing compound and noncombustible mortar.

The next step is laying (filling) the thermal insulation between the joists.

Note! If you use tile or roll materials, the joints must be sealed with a film with a sticky layer.

The material is fastened to the joists with a furniture stapler with the introduction of the edge on the beam. The overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls is made. If you use expanded clay, it is filled in between the joists with the layer of 20-25 cm with a tight press. On top of the insulation is laid the second layer of waterproofing, and then a layer of vapor barrier, with a foil layer up. Rolled materials are laid with an overlap of 15-20 cm, and the joints are sealed with a film with a sticky layer.

Underfloor heating in the stoop: How to warm the floor in the stoop

Warm water system allows for a small cost to heat a sufficiently large area and distribute heat evenly throughout the room. But it should be remembered that this option warms up not only the air, but also all the objects in the room. That is why pipes must be located in places where no furnishings will be located. In this case the work of the water system will be more efficient and energy costs will be minimal.

How to make the floor of the stoop warm

It is not very pleasant to come out of the steam room and step barefoot on the cold floor in the anteroom. So you need to make it warm. As a rule, the floors in the baths are made of wood. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to choose boards made of conifers. pine or spruce. To insulate the floor, you will need the following materials: edged boards, timbers, vapor barrier (Isospan or polyethylene), insulation (mineral wool or foamed plastic) and adhesive tape. Of the tools required to prepare a saw (jigsaw), nails, a hammer, and a stapler.

First remove the old flooring. On both sides of each joist strengthen bars and lay boards on them across the joists. This step is called the creation of the rough floor, all parts of which must be treated with antiseptic. In order to insulate the subfloor, the vapor barrier is laid over it with an overlap, and it is fixed with a stapler. Overlapping places are connected with scotch tape. Place the thermal insulation mats between the joists.

The width of the mats is a little wider than the distance between the beams.

Then they will fit tightly against the joists and will not let the cold air in. The surface of the upper layer of insulation must be flush with the upper edge of the joists. The entire structure is again covered with a vapor barrier, and then the tongue and groove boards are laid. The floor in the staircase is warm enough. To protect it from moisture and prolong its life, it is recommended to paint it with water-resistant paint.

Warming the walls of the restroom

Insulation of wooden and not only wooden walls in the pre-bathroom is better carried out with the use of natural insulators, such as mineral wool. Such insulation does not release toxic substances into the air when the temperature rises. To insulate the walls from the inside. It is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

  • vapor barrier;
  • foil polystyrene foam;
  • insulation (mineral wool or Styrofoam);
  • aluminum scotch tape;
  • Wooden bars 25×25 mm;
  • Battenings in width of 12-15 cm;
  • stapler;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • A saw (electric jigsaw).

According to the size of the pre-bath height, wooden bars are cut, which are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The spacing between the slats equals the length of the battens. Vapor barrier with a stapler to reinforce the walls, the joints overlap with duct tape. Next, between the joists, starting from the bottom, lay insulation. If you use mineral wool as insulation inside the staircase, it is better to mount the timbers horizontally. Fix polystyrene foam on top of the insulation. The foil layer of expanded polystyrene foam should face the inside of the pre-bathroom. Finish insulation of walls with fixing of finishing moldings. Just like the floors, the walls can be painted with a special water-repellent varnish or paint.

Warm ceiling

Considerable heat loss also occurs through the ceiling. So it is worth to insulate here as well. For this purpose the ceiling in the staircase is lined with a board 5 cm or more thick on the inside. From the attic side, cross bars 20×20 cm are installed on the ceiling slab, and the vapor barrier is spread on them. It is good to insulate the ceiling with clay, which keeps heat for a long time. It is filled on top of the vapor barrier with a layer of 3-5 cm and leveled. Place mineral wool mats between the beams and cover them with polyethylene film. The total layer of insulation is made so that it is flush with the height of the beams. The last layer is placed boards. The warmer the ceiling, the less condensation will be on it.

When carrying out insulation, you can not caulk the room, it must be ventilated. Otherwise, the insulation will get wet and there will be a lot of condensation.

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