How to put the right fan in the computer

Ventilation of enclosures. myths and realities

Cooling various components. one of the favorite topics of overclockers (however, not only them). Good ventilation of the cabinet is important here. After all, by reducing the temperature in it at least a couple of degrees, we will reduce the temperature of all the elements inside. Unfortunately, I haven’t come across any more or less exact methods of enclosure ventilation calculation. But in excess general recommendations wander from article to article, which have bronzed from frequent use and are not perceived critically any more.

Here are the most common of these myths:

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  • Intake fan performance should be about the same as the outlet fan performance
  • It is necessary to let in cool air from below, and to let out cool air from above
  • The more expansion slots and 5-inch bays filled in a case, the worse its ventilation
  • Replacing normal air inlets with round air inlets noticeably improves the ventilation of the case.
  • Front fan significantly lowers chassis temperature.

As a result the struggle to ventilate a case often boils down to installing fans of the largest possible size and performance in all the regular slots, after which a drill (hacksaw, jigsaw, chisel, sledgehammer, “angle grinder”, autogenous blowtorch) gets hold of. underline the correct one :-), and the fans are shoved into the non-standard places. After that a couple of fans are added to the inside of the case for greater effect. usually to blow air on the graphics card and the hard drive.

The amount of time, effort and money spent on all of this is better not to talk about. Though the result is usually not bad, but the noise, produced by this “battery” at full speed is beyond any limits, and it sucks dust at the speed of a vacuum cleaner. As a consequence soon the case starts to get fenbasse and re-basses and looks like a medium mixer. And the process of launching the game instead of just clicking your mouse now looks like getting ready to take off an airliner. do not forget to turn up the speed of all of these fans. In this article I will try to show how you can achieve a similar effect “with little effort.

All mass-produced enclosures can be divided into three kinds. desktop, tower with top (horizontal) PSU and tower with side (vertical) PSU. The main share of the market is occupied by the last two. Each has its own merits and demerits, but the third kind is considered the worst in terms of ventilation. Here the processor is in an airtight “” next to the power supply unit, and it is rather difficult to arrange the flow of fresh air there.

General principles of ventilation are quite simple. First, the fans must not obstruct natural convection (from below upwards), but must help it. Secondly, it is undesirable to have non-blown stagnant zones, especially in places where natural convection is difficult (primarily the lower surfaces of horizontal elements). Thirdly, the greater the volume of air pumped through the housing, the smaller the temperature difference in it compared to the “outside” temperature. Fourthly, the flow does not like various “twists”. changes of direction, contraction-expansion, etc.п.

How does air exchange take place?? Let’s suppose that the fan blows air into the casing and the pressure in it increases. The dependence of flow on pressure is called the fan’s performance curve. The higher the pressure, the less air the fan will pump in and the more air will come out through the vents. At some point the amount of air pumped in equals the amount of air leaving the ventilator and the pressure will not increase further. The larger the area of the vents, the lower the pressure will be and the better the ventilation will be. So simply increasing the area of these holes “without noise and dust” can sometimes do more than installing additional fans. What changes if the fan doesn’t blow air in, but blows it out of the enclosure?? Only the direction of flow changes, flow rate remains the same.

The “classic” options for venting an enclosure with a top mounted PSU are shown in Fig.1-3. Actually, these are actually three varieties of the same method, where the air goes diagonally around the case (from the front bottom corner to the rear top corner). The red color shows areas that are not blown out. The flow resistance does not depend on how tightly they are filled. It goes by them anyway. Note the lower area where the video card is located. One of the most critical components of a computer to overheat. Installing the front fan allows to bring some fresh air to it (and to the south bridge as well), bringing down the temperature by a couple of degrees. But in this case the hard disk (if it is installed in its usual place) gets by the side of life. In Fig.4 shows why this is the case. Here’s a schematic representation of the airflow through the fan (darker color corresponds to higher speed). On the intake side the air comes in evenly from all sides, and its speed rapidly goes down as you move away from the fan. On the discharge side the “range” of airflow is noticeably greater, but only along the axis. an unbreathable zone is formed on the side of it. The same “aerodynamic shadow” is created behind the fan hub, but it quickly fades away.

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To illustrate this I will give an example from life. Looking for the best way to cool my desktop, I turned the intake fan in the PSU. This is supposed to improve the cooling of the PSU. because now it is blown with fresh air and not with used air from the case. However, the PSU temperature gauge showed just the opposite. The temperature went up 2 degrees! How could this happen?? The answer is simple. the card with the sensor is set away from the fan and therefore appears in the aerodynamic shadow. Since together with the temperature sensor in this shadow there are some other elements, the status quo was restored to prevent them from failing.

Now let’s move on from theory to practice. Our main goal. to increase the area of ventilation holes, preferably quickly and without using any plumbing tools. Their area must be at least equal to that of the fan (i.e. the area swept by the blades), and preferably exceed it by at least one and a half times. For example, for an 80mm fan, the effective area is approximately 33 sq. ft.see. If there are several fans and they all work for blowing (or, vice versa, all for blowing), their effective area is summed up. This measure is especially urgent for cases of old design, which still remember the Pentium-2 and nevertheless are still being produced (and sold) until the dies are completely worn out.

My Codegen desktop is one of these “veterans”, it has outlived three motherboards already. As for “features” it has a place for a 90mm front fan, which, according to the designers’ plans, should draw air through a slot at the bottom of the front panel measuring only 5 sq.m. of area. see., yes token holes with diameter of 1,5 mm in front of it (later I’ve reamed them in staggered order up to 4 mm. it’s even more beautiful). Of course, the case is not a submarine, the air will be sucked in through other small cracks and leaks, the exact accounting of which is impossible. But anyway the ventilation in normal mode is like running in gas mask.

Computer configuration during testing:

  • CPU Athlon T-red-B 1,6v. 1800@166X11, Evercool ND15-715 cooler connected via 3 pos. switch (second speed was used, 2700 rpm)
  • M/b Epox 8RDA3, no bridge airflow
  • video Asus 8440 Deluxe (GF4ti4400), act. the cooler covers the chip and memory.
  • 512 Mb RAM Hynix
  • HDD Samsung 7200 RPM
  • CD-ROM, FDD, Rack-container
  • Modem
  • TV/capture card Flyvideo
  • Codegen 250w PSU
  • Total power (without PSU). about 180W

Processor temperature was measured with Sandra, graphics card. by built-in sensors via SmartDoctor, in the case under the top lid above the processor (have not forgotten. case) was placed a remote sensor of an electronic thermometer, and the second sensor of this thermometer measured the temperature in the room. The results were then adjusted to an outside temperature of 23 degrees.

The system was loaded by running in a loop of 3DMark2001SE game tests. At the initial state, the temperature in the case exceeded the outside temperature by 15 degrees, the video card temperature (chip/memory) was higher by 55/38 deg., processor at 39 degrees Celsius. To compare, measurements were made with the lid open. Results: videocard temperature is higher than external by 44/30 degrees, the CPU. by 26 degrees.

First let’s try to go the traditional way. What’s the first thought that comes to mind when looking at this case? “If there’s a hole for a fan, there must be something in there” (quite according to “Golden Calf”). Well, let’s do it. What was the result? The temperature sensor in the case did not react at all to our manipulations; the CPU temperature went down by 1 degree, and the video card by 4-5 degrees (by the way, another traditional step gave approximately the same result). I see installation of Gembird SB-A blocker next to the video card). Actually, this is where the “traditional way” ends.

Now let’s return everything to its original state and go the other way. let’s take out two plugs of expansion slots next to the video card. This kills two birds with one stone: there is a new hole for case ventilation and the dead space near the video card is eliminated. In addition let’s break out the protective “comb” at the front air intake (thanks God it’s at the bottom and it’s not visible anyway). and the total size of ventilation holes will be 45 sq.m. See.

The result is immediate. the case temperature dropped two degrees and the graphics card is even better, dropping 9 degrees on the chip and 7 degrees on the memory. You should agree that it is not a bad result and it is absolutely free. This variant can be recommended for cards with passive cooler as an alternative to the fan installation. And if this is not enough? Adding the front intake fan has the following paradoxical result. the temperature of both the case and the graphics card. goes up! Not much, only one degree, but still. The explanation is simple. now more air enters the case through the front opening and less. Through the rear past the video card.

Custom PC Build: How to setup your desktop cooling fans for proper air flow

And if you set it to blow out? That’s a different story. Both fans (in the PSU and the additional one) are now switched in parallel, their costs add up, and here’s the result. the video card “cooled down” another 3-4 degrees, and the total temperature drop compared to the original version was 12 degrees on the video chip, 10 degrees on the video memory and 5 degrees in the case (and respectively, the processor). Note that the video card is cooler here than in the open case! But the expense was limited by buying one middle-powered case fan.

Finally, the last option, the “extreme”. all three fans (PSU, front and blower) are blowing out, additionally one more slot is opening at the back. The blower was installed in the lower (of the two) five-inch compartment instead of the removed Rack container. Results. the processor “cooled down” compared to the previous version by 4 degrees (and now it’s the same 4 degrees hotter than itself in the open case), and the video card lost another couple of degrees. True, the temperature sensor in the case did not show any decrease. cold air goes below it, because the extra fans don’t take air from the top, but from the middle of the case. The overall results are summarized in the table. It shows the absolute temperature of the components, given a room temperature of 23 degrees.

CPU Mem GPU
Original case 62 61 78
Vent. blowing 61 56 74
Open. Slots 60 54 69
Open. ventilation slots.blowing 57 49 65
Open. vent slots.and blower 53 48 63
Outdoor enclosure 49 52 67

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Now that we have grasped and tested in practice the general principles of effective ventilation, let’s apply them to the most common case. Tower with an overhead PSU.

Fig.6 shows the most effective way to cool such a case. An additional fan on the back wall actually provides the same purging action as in my last experiment. As almost half of the heat is emitted by the processor, it makes sense to deliver some cool air directly to the area where it works. This is done through a free three-inch or five-inch compartment on the front wall. both its plugs (plastic and metal) are removed, and how to decorate the resulting hole. it is a question of your skill and imagination. In the simplest case you can buy a panel with a couple of small fans (take them off at once, they are useless), there are many variants of such “gimmicks” for 5″ compartments. from the usual grid to the panels with built-in electronic display, USB-ports or fanbase (although the area of the grid is less).

Installation of a Rack-container also provides a good air purging. Keep in mind that all this stuff should be placed in the lowest compartment. The choice of the particular option depends on what needs to be “frozen” in the first place. If your CPU or memory gets overheated, the slot’s openings should be larger, and if your video card. You can do without them at all, but open up more slots at the bottom. You want the total area of the openings to be at least 70-80 sq. ft. cm. depending on the size of the fans. For your reference: the area of one slot opening is 13 sq. cm., open three-inch compartment. 30 sq. see., five-inch. 15-30 sq.m. see. with the aforementioned decorative grid and 60 sq. cm for fully open. Another 10-15 sq. see. can give the removal of the plugs from the port holes on the back wall. Oh yes, I almost forgot, there is also a standard air intake at the bottom of the front panel with area 5-30 sq.m. see., and some cases have holes in the side walls.

If there is a regular fan hole on the top panel, it’s a pity not to use it. Put something not too powerful out there. If there is no such hole, it is not necessary to cut it. Better yet, buy a special blower and install it in the topmost 5″ bay This will be especially useful for those who, for whatever reason, don’t have a hole for an extra fan under the PSU or have it used for direct CPU cooling. But in this variant it is worth to make a duct, directing fresh air from the lower five or three-inch compartment to the processor area. Without it, much of this flow can go straight into the blower without picking up enough heat on the way.

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In Fig. 8 shows a rather exotic scheme with the bottom blowing fan. It is worse than the previous two and can be used only as a last resort when the video card needs to be cooled first. In fact this scheme provides two independent streams. the first (lower, from the back to the front) cools the graphics card, expansion cards and South Bridge, and the second (from the front to the back) cools the upper half of the chassis. Advantages of this arrangement. total output of the fans increases, a lot of hot air from the graphics card is blown outside immediately, total flow resistance in the case is lower.

But there are also major drawbacks. The main drawback is that, for design reasons, the bottom holes in the front wall, through which the air is blown out, usually have a much smaller area than the effective area of the front fan. Also the reflow has to change direction twice, which he really doesn’t like. The result is the same “gas mask run”. for example, if the hole in the case is half the size of the fan, the fan capacity drops by half too, and that’s not counting the back pressure in the case. But the noise, on the contrary, will be bigger. Seeping through narrow slots, small holes, intricate “squiggles” and other design tricks in the front panel, the air flow can produce not at all artistic whistling. Additionally, the noise of the front fan (unlike the rear fan) is not shielded by the case.

You can increase the efficiency of the front fan by introducing more air in the cavity between the front panel and the metal front wall of the case. For this we will follow the well-trodden path. take out the plastic one (only the plastic one this time)!) Bottom three-inch compartment cover. But we still have to blow cool air into the upper half of the case from the front too. These streams need to be separated with a baffle under the lower five-inch compartment.

Now let’s have a look at the flow inside the case. In the first and second diagrams, the main flow moves from bottom to top. The resistance to the flow is determined by the bottleneck in its path. In this case the section is at the graphics card level: the graphics card takes up about half of the case and on the other side stands the hard drive with the cable sticking out. Since the video card can not be moved to another place, you have to move the hard drive. It can be lowered down or put in one of the 5″ bays (preferably the one used as an air intake). In both cases the hard drive will be well ventilated, which will be good for its health. By the way, the bottleneck is not really here, but at the entrance of the case. There its speed is by an order of magnitude higher, and aerodynamic losses are proportional to the square of speed. That is why “sticking” and laying of loops from the point of view of air exchange practically gives nothing.

I hear, I hear snide voices. and what about the fearful stuff about the dust, which by setting all the fans to blow-out will be sucked through the CD-ROM and FDD? Answering. The air follows the path of least resistance and with good ventilation will not go into narrow slots when there are large windows nearby. And the standard ventilation system works on a blow-out, in brand-name cases and notebooks too (and there are not fools sitting there, as some colleagues like to say, when other arguments run out 🙂

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Say a word or two about tauers with a side-vented PSU. Despite the large number of holes in the most unexpected places, ventilation of these cases is disgusting. If you can improve the air flow over the graphics card in the traditional way (by opening the neighboring slots), then with the processor have to tinker. For good blowing of its “” it is necessary to remove somehow the hot air from there. The most effective. cutting in the top panel of the fan to blow out the air, but it is rather time consuming. So let’s try alternative ways. InWin cases on the top of the rear wall there are ventilation holes of unknown purpose. warm air will not go out of there, t.к. in the case is the vacuum from the PSU fan, and supplying cool air under the very ceiling is ineffective. To keep them in use, put a blower on the top of the case. In cases where this is not the case either, the blower can be pointed forward and connected by a duct to an empty five-inch compartment (of course, removing both plugs from it, Fig.9).

Another option. installing a PSU with a powerful fan, where the air intake is only from the “” side. You can find PSUs on sale that have a 120 mm fan on the side wall. It is supposed to be enough to ventilate your chassis sufficiently. You can do and vice versa. to pipe fresh air into the area with a fan or a blower, expecting the jet to reach the unblown corners. In general, the area for experimentation with these cases is endless.

There are still a few myths about the choice of fans. but this question deserves a separate article.

Removing the cooler from the CPU

This procedure is not complicated and involves either removing the metal lock or turning and pulling out the plastic latches. In the latter case the upper flats of plastic pins need to be turned counter-clockwise and pulled up. Below we will tell you how to remove the cooler from the CPU on the latches. These designs are used for both AMD and Intel processors.

right, computer

After the heatsink is removed from the processor, you must carefully clean off the old thermal paste residue from the mating surfaces of the processor and heatsink, and apply the thinnest even layer of new thermal paste to the top of the processor. Now you know how to properly install the cooler on the CPU.

The main mistakes when installing the cooler

It is important to know how to place the coolers in the system unit correctly. A malfunctioning cooling system can be inefficient, or on the contrary, it can create the conditions for rapid overheating. The most important thing here is which way the case cooler blows.

  • Only the rear fan is installed, blowing air in. The warm air that is blowing out of the PSU is re-injected and then blows in the same circle to the outside. The bottom of the case doesn’t circulate at all, and everything gets warm there.
  • Only the front fan is installed and blowing out. It will create a low pressure in the case and a lot of dust will accumulate quickly. There will be no heat dissipation, so everything will overheat, and the computer will constantly keep the coolers at maximum speed, so that also the noise will be much more.
  • The rear fan blows air in and the front fan blows air out. This is not normal, if only because the warm air rises and cannot be forced downward. So the effect will be the same as in the previous point.
  • Both coolers are blowing in. Too much pressure is created in the case, fans are working overtime, and of course, there is no benefit.
  • Both coolers are blowing. This is the most dangerous situation, because it creates a low pressure in the case, the air circulation is disturbed, and all computer components overheat very quickly.

As you can see it is very important which way you install the cooler. If you turn it upside down, it blows in the wrong direction. That’s why it should always be checked. Correctly installing the fans in your PC case. the top rear fan should be blowing air out, and the bottom front fan should be blowing air in. Then it will circulate naturally and properly, and the cooling system will work as efficiently as possible. Now you know how to install the coolers correctly in the system unit. If you installed them yourself, check their work. If you are going to do this, do it right away.

Your computer is quite complex: it consists of many parts, each generating a lot of heat. Overheating of any of them can lead at best to malfunction and computer shutdown, at worst to failure. Processor, graphic card, motherboard’s North and South Bridge chips become particularly hot. But other components are also heated, e.g. the hard drive becomes quite warm during active work. So the computer needs to be cooled.

How to install fans into a computer case.

Incorrectly installed fans.

Here are some examples of unacceptable installation of additional coolers in a PC case.

One rear fan is intake fan.

A closed air loop is created between the power supply and the extra fan. Some of the hot air from the power supply is immediately drawn back inside. In this case, there is no air movement at the bottom of the system unit and therefore the cooling is ineffective.

One front fan is mounted on the blow-out side.

If you put only one front fan and it runs on air, you end up with very depressurized inside the case, and with ineffective cooling of the computer. And because of the reduced pressure the fans themselves will be overloaded, as they will have to overcome the reverse air pressure. Computer components will be heated up, which will result in increased operating noise as fan speeds will increase.

Rear fan blows in, front fan blows out.

Creates an air short between the power supply and the rear fan. The air in the CPU vicinity works in a circular pattern.

The front fan, on the other hand, tries to push the hot air down against the natural convection lift, working under a higher load and creating vacuum inside the case.

Two auxiliary coolers are blowing in.

An air short circuit is created at the top of the case.

The effect of the incoming cold air is only felt for the hard drives, as it is pushed further into the counterflow from the rear fan. Creates excessive pressure inside the case, making it difficult for the extra fans to operate.

Two additional fans are blowing out.

Toughest cooling mode.

Inside the case there is low air pressure, all case fans and inside the power supply work under reverse suction pressure. There is not enough air movement inside, and consequently, all components work by overheating.

These are basically all the main points that will help you in organizing a proper ventilation system for your personal computer. If there is a special plastic sleeve on the side cover of the case, use it to blow cool air to the CPU. All other installation issues are resolved depending on the case structure.

A computer is a complex device made up of many blocks, each of which generates a lot of heat. Overheating of any of them can lead at best to malfunction and crash computer shutdown, at worst. to a failure. Processor, graphic card, motherboard North and South Bridge chips are getting especially hot. But other units are also heated. for example, the hard drive heats up quite noticeably during active work. Therefore a computer needs cooling.

How to install the fans in your computer case.

How to Install Fans in a Computer Case Properly

A computer is a complex machine with many components which have to run continuously. Cooling is an essential part of this entire complex system because every part generates heat, consuming electricity. If there was no cooling, there would be a risk of sudden “combustion” would increase by a factor of ten. But what to do if the old cooling has failed? Definitely need to look for a replacement and take on the installation. How to properly install the fans in the computer case? The answer to this question you can find in this article.

Correct installation of coolers in the system unit

Once the coolers are selected and purchased, you can begin to install them in the system unit. For proper installation, it is important to understand how the air moves inside the computer and how the coolers will affect it. With convection the hot air rises to the top of the case by itself and to cool it as efficiently as possible the coolers have to be installed in a way that exploits and enhances this natural air movement, instead of counteracting it.

Therefore, traditionally the top of the case coolers are installed on the blowing out, it allows to remove the heated air from the case. And in the lower part of the case the fans are installed on the air intake, because it enhances the natural air flow from bottom to top. The picture below shows possible locations for installing coolers and the direction in which they should flow air. This scheme of installing coolers in the system unit is considered the most correct.

If you ignore the natural air movement and, for example, in the upper part of the system to install a cooler for blowing, it can even increase the temperature of computer components. Hard disks in particular will be badly affected if a hot air stream from the CPU radiator is directed to them.

The process of installing the cooler to the system unit is not difficult. The cooler is installed on the inside of the system unit, and then fixed with 4 screws on the outside. When installing, it is important to make sure that the cooler directs the air in the proper direction. To do this, the cooler usually has an arrow that indicates where the air will move.

After the cooler is installed you need to connect it to the motherboard (if you use a 3 or 4 pin connector) or to the computer power supply (if you use a MOLEX connector).

Naturally, all these actions should be performed with the computer completely turned off and de-energized. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging components or receiving an electric shock.

Users, who assemble their own computer for the first time, often have a question about how to properly install case coolers in the system unit, so that the cooling works as efficiently as possible. In fact, there is nothing difficult, you just need to find a suitable cooler and install it so that it does not interfere with the natural air movement.

Test three, variations of “classic” schemes: one fan in, one fan out (different location of the fan in the front of the case), open and closed front panel.

Now we move on to “classic” schemes combined in a single test, because they all provide the location of one fan on the air intake and one fan on the exhaust.

Let’s start with the most classic case where we have an intake fan on the bottom of the front of the case to blow air over the hard drives, and an exhaust fan on the back of the case. Case front panel closed.

This “classic” fan layout is less efficient than the dual fan blow layout in terms of CPU temp. However it is worth noting that with such arrangement of fans the hard disks inside the system unit cool much better than in the case when there are no fans at all in the case.

For more detailed results please see enclosed.

Now it is the same with the front panel open.

CPU temp dropped to dual fan blowout with front panel closed. Hard drive temps are down to near zero.

For more detailed results, please see the materials provided in the attachment.

Repositioning an intake fan above the HDD cage and closing the front panel.

Definitely this layout makes absolutely no sense since the temperature of the processor became even higher than with a single blowing fan. But it’s worth noting that with this arrangement.

For more detailed results please see the materials provided in the attachment.

Keep the location of the fans and tear off the front panel of the case.

Processor temperature was about average between two fans with the lid closed and with the lid open. The graphics card temperature stayed about the same. The cooling efficiency of the HDD cage has definitely gone down.

For more detailed results please see the attachment.

Why do I need a heat sink?

The CPU casing is made of aluminum (pictured). can’t it just blow heat into the air by itself, why do you need a radiator? Here you need to understand that there is such a thing as contact area. The processor itself is very small and the air has insufficient thermal conductivity to dissipate all the heat that even the simplest processor produces.

For this purpose a heat sink is hooked to the processor. It transfers the heat through the copper tubes to the aluminum lattice, through which a large volume of air is driven by the fan. This way we dissipate heat with much more efficiency.

The picture clearly shows how the copper tubes pass into the aluminum grill.

The same principle applies to graphics card cooling. But due to the large number of manufacturers and the special shape of this component, the radiators are all different and made for a specific model of video card, while the CPU radiators are standardized.

Some heavily loaded motherboard components like the power supply circuit or chipset are equipped with fanless heat sinks. If your system involves overclocking, using a powerful graphics card and CPU, then you need a good blowing of the case. Then a flow of fresh air will cool all the elements with a passive cooling system.

If the blowing of the case is insufficient, the CPU and graphics card fans will simply drive already hot air around. And as we know, the heat transfer process goes from more to less, and the heated air no longer takes in the heat as effectively. As a result, heat energy is accumulated in the case, which leads to overheating: at best, the automation will work and the computer will shut down, at worst, a component will burn out.

How to install the cooler on the processor

During the assembly of his system is the need to install a CPU cooler, and if you need to replace the CPU, then the cooling must be dismantled. In these tasks there is nothing complicated, you only need to follow the instructions and do everything carefully so as not to damage the components. Let’s take a closer look at the installation and removal of coolers.

Installing the cooler from AMD

Coolers from AMD have a peculiar mounting, respectively, the process of assembling also differs slightly from others. It is carried out easily, it requires only a few simple steps:

    First you must install the processor. There is nothing difficult, just take into account the location of the keys and do everything carefully. Pay extra attention to other accessories, for instance RAM or graphics card slots. It is important that once the cooling is installed, all these parts can be installed without difficulty in the slots. If the cooler will interfere with this, it is better to put the parts beforehand, and then mount the cooling.

Mounting an Intel cooler

The boxed versions of Intel processors already have branded cooling. The mounting method is slightly different from the above, but not fundamentally different. These coolers are mounted on clips in special slots on the motherboard. Simply choose the appropriate location and insert the pins into the connectors one by one until you hear a distinctive click.

It remains to connect the power supply as described above. Note that Intel coolers also have thermal paste on them, so unpack them carefully.

Installing the tower cooler

If standard cooling capacity is not enough to ensure normal CPU operation, you will need to install a tower cooler. They are usually more powerful due to large fans and the presence of several heat pipes. The installation of such a part is required only for a powerful and expensive processor. Let’s go through the steps of mounting a tower CPU cooler in detail:

  • Unpack the cooling box and follow the included instructions to assemble the base, if necessary. Carefully review the specs and dimensions of the part before buying it, so that it not only fits on the motherboard, but also fits into the case.
  • Attach the back panel to the underside of the motherboard, placing it in the appropriate mounting holes.

This completes the installation of the tower cooler. Once again we recommend that you study the design of the motherboard and install all the parts in such an order that they do not interfere when trying to mount other components.

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