How to Remove a Bottom Heater

How to temporarily remove a heating radiator

This article is about how to temporarily remove a heating radiator to replace it or paint the wall behind it. Remove the radiator is not at all difficult, as it may seem at first glance, about this we will tell in the article. First of all you must understand the consequences of failed radiator removal: if you do not know how to remove the radiator properly, you may leak and damage the flooring. However, if you pay attention to our tips, you will eliminate all the problems at once, during the process of removing the radiator.

First of all we must show you the main elements of the radiator: top right regulation valve, bottom left shut-off valve (to regulate the water supply), top left the Maevsky valve to bleed air from the radiator.

With the regulating valve you can adjust the flow of incoming water to the radiator, opening or closing the valve you will regulate the temperature of its heating by adding or removing water respectively. With the help of a stop valve you can adjust the intensity with which the water will flow. This valve is most often used to balance all radiators and is installed on each radiator.

The first thing to do is to close the valves. The regulating valve is closed by hand, and the shutoff valve with an Allen key.

TIP: When you close the valve remember how many turns you made to open the same number.

Now you need to disconnect the radiator from the valves. For this you need a wrench or a gas wrench. Valve design consists of an American-style (removable sleeve). Unscrew the cage nut to separate the radiator from the valve.

TIP: In order not to spoil the flooring on the floor, put unnecessary rags under the radiator.

Unscrew the adjusting valve in the same way To be safe, use a second wrench to hold the connector of the American pipe while unscrewing the nut.

The last step is to remove the radiator from the brackets. The best advice we can give you is that you remove the radiator with someone else, as the radiator with water is very heavy.This operation requires at least two people.

TIP: if you will be painting the wall behind the radiator, seal the valves in bags or paper.

During the process of painting or taping the wall, arrange the radiator so it won’t get scratched. When you are finished painting, hang the new radiator or the old one on the brackets.

When the radiator is hanging in place, connect the valve and the radiator with the shrinking American pipe. While tightening the stop valve, remember the number of turns you had to twist to shut it off and open it by exactly the same amount.

Open the regulating valve for the coolant flow, and you need to open the Mevskoe tap so that air escapes through it and the radiator is filled with water. After the water drips from the Mayevsky faucet, close it, this will mean that the radiator is filled with coolant.

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What to do if the batteries are on the runoffs

The step-by-step steps for removing radiators on the flip-flops are as follows:

  • You need to use a pipe wrench (no. 1 or 2) to unscrew the locknuts until the end of the needle thread (right-hand thread). If paint residue or corrosion buildup gets in the way, the leash needs to be heated. This can be done easily with a construction hair dryer, blowtorch or by any other convenient method.
  • Use a screwdriver or a common knife to remove the residual compressed winding from the threads. As a rule, lead wax or plumber’s linen.
  • Now you need to “roll up” the radiator plugs. If the connection is one-way, the two plugs have a right-hand threaded connection. At a diagonal method of connection one of them is left, the letter “l” will indicate the course of the thread.

You have to be ready for the moment, when the rest of the coolant will start to flow out of the radiator.

Tip. In order to. To unscrew cast iron plugs, use pipe wrenches No3 or No4. To make the work easier you can heat the manifold of the first section. Even a slight increase in diameter from the thermal expansion will cause the thread to shrink. Attention, it is necessary to heat the section, not the plug itself!

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How to shut off the radiator in the apartment

Almost all work with the elements of the heating system requires the disconnection of radiators, and sometimes their dismantling. Even such a relatively simple operation as painting. This should be done when the surface is cold. It is easier to work after taking off the radiator, this way you have full access from all sides. If more complex operations are required, such as replacing or repairing the radiator, you need to know how to shut off the radiator.

The task of disconnecting the radiator is complicated by the fact that there is coolant inside it all year round. Drain the heating system only in case of repair, because leaving the radiator without coolant for a long time leads to corrosion.

Liquids inside the radiator contain a small amount of dissolved oxygen. After a period of time all oxygen in the water reacts with the metal parts of the heating system and the corrosion is stopped. After draining the coolant, air enters the system and combined with water vapor, especially hot air, the corrosion increases. Therefore it is correct to drain the coolant only in exceptional cases.

This combination allows the installation of a bimetallic radiator in centralized and autonomous heating systems. Steel is not subject to corrosion, can contact with aggressive components of heat transfer fluids. It has a significant margin of safety, well withstands high pressure. Aluminum with its high thermal conductivity provides rapid heating of the premises.

Steel heating devices depending on the design are divided into two groups:

The first type represents the plates connected to each other by metal ribbed convectors. Inside each plate, consisting of two welded sheets of steel, the coolant circulates. Such design is easily destroyed under the action of water hammer, so the installation of panel radiators in central heating systems is not rational, but it is perfectly suited for individual complexes due to the low price, stylish design.

Steel tubular appliances are made by laser welding. As a monolithic product, they are as strong as possible, protected against leaks, successfully withstand pressure fluctuations. The small internal volume of the tubes allows you to minimize the amount of coolant used for heating, thereby reducing energy costs. Given the excellent strength properties of steel, it becomes possible to install the radiator in an apartment with centralized heat communications.

How to remove the section from the radiator

Sections of any kind of kit radiators are connected by a nipple nut. It must be unscrewed to remove the section from an aluminum, bimetallic or cast iron radiator. For this you need a nipple spanner of appropriate size.

Standard diameter of the nut is 3/4″ (but there can be variants). On the outside there is a thread that is screwed into the individual sections of the radiator. On the inside there are two small clips, which must be caught with a wrench. Next, clearly follow the technology of dismantling the radiator section:

  • Put the nipple wrench on top of the radiator so that its head is opposite the place to be unscrewed;
  • Insert it into the upper channel of the section to the measured depth;
  • Turn counterclockwise two turns;
  • Insert it into the lower channel at the same distance and unscrew the nut for two turns;
  • Alternate from one part of the radiator to the other until you have unscrewed the nuts completely.

It happens that the nipple nut does not yield (this often happens with old cast iron radiators). If this is the case, wipe the connection with acetone, solvent or “White Spirit”. Remove paint residue.

Apply WD-40 or similar rust inhibitor to the joint. Lightly tap the joint with a hammer (remember that cast iron is strong, but brittle). You may have to work the joint several times and wait an hour and a half.

If the nipple nut is permanently stuck, you will have to do some work. The detailed process of separating the sections is described in the article “How to disassemble a heating radiator: aluminum, bimetallic, cast iron”

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Goodbye, America

How to remove a radiator installed on American?

Installation and removal of the radiator on American takes no more than a couple of minutes.

The only problem that can occur during removal is the considerable effort required to unclog the steel pipes for a diagonal connection. In this case tilt radiator slightly on brackets and American joints will separate.

Ways to disassemble

Removal of the radiator during the heating season is performed after emptying the riser. In a private home it is the owner’s responsibility, but in a multi-storey building you need permission from the management office. The service is paid and carried out at a convenient time for the housing and communal services. Most heaters are equipped with blocking valves, the coolant stops flowing to a particular area.

Fitting connection

The thread remains intact if the axial dimension from one connection to the other in the new device is the same as in the old battery.

  • Counter-nuts are twisted on the supply pipes with plugs. If a layer of paint gets in the way, heat the connection with a hairdryer or blowtorch. The old winding is removed from the thread.
  • The radiator plug is unscrewed using a sub- or 4-gas spanner. The right-hand thread is generally used for the side connection.
  • The radiator is removed from the holders.
  • Radiator plugs and counter elements are screwed on the supply pipe.
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Existing fittings must be cut off if the radiator is to be moved, a valve or a thermostatic valve is to be installed, or if the radiator is to be installed backwards using the American pipe. New threading for taps or fittings in fresh sections.

With the help of the swivels

Tightness is ensured by using a system of two nuts. One ends the radiator with a pipe and the other is a cage nut. Unscrew the smaller element according to the length of the slit on the ring nut and the connection nut. The process is performed on both flow and return lines.

Radiator is removed from the mountings. Cast iron products are heavy, so help is needed or the radiator is divided into separate sections. Water remains in the battery, so rags are used so as not to flood the neighbors.

The problem occurs when couplings have rusted and become rigid. A blowtorch can help or the joints can be cut off. The remaining length may not be enough for a new thread, so an additional piece is welded.

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Features lower connection assemblies

Connection to the heating system below is effective when passing through the supply pipes under the floor, sometimes for convenience and aesthetics are wound into the walls to a small height corner fittings allow you to connect the pipes to the radiator body.

In addition to locking and regulating valves, indoor and outdoor bypasses are often built into the fittings connection assemblies to increase efficiency, and temperature controllers are used to set the temperature mode.

The main material of manufacture of devices is brass, when buying should pay attention to the wall thickness and thread length manufacturers who produce budget products, make them thin-walled with a short threaded thread.

The main material of manufacture of devices is brass, when buying should pay attention to the wall thickness and thread length manufacturers who produce budget products, make them thin-walled with a short thread.

remove, bottom, heater

Types of bottom connection assemblies

In individual apartment houses single-pipe and two-pipe heating systems are used, for connection of the separately standing heat exchanger a combined method is used, when in the distribution with two pipes it is included only in the supply line according to the scheme leningradka.

Accordingly, the manufacturer produced assemblies with bottom connection are designed for the use of fittings in single-pipe, two-pipe or combined circuits, their features:

  • In a single-pipe mowing line, when the heat-carrying fluid moves in series through all the heating devices, its temperature drops, which respectively leads to a strong heating of the first in the chain of batteries and the cold surface of the latter. To equalize the temperature of the heat carrier at the inlet of all devices, thermal compensation is used, which is carried out by the bypass, dividing the incoming flow into two branches one part goes to the radiator and heats its body, the other goes to the next battery, mixing with the cooled flow coming out of the first heat exchanger.
  • In two-pipe systems the heating temperature of all heaters is uniform and no temperature compensation is required. In this wiring applies the basic design binocular fitting with shutoff or regulating valves, one branch pipe of which is connected to the supply line, the other is connected to the return.
  • Combined unit with internal bypass channel is built into both one-pipe and two-pipe heating system, in the first case, the bypass channel is slightly open, in the second case it is completely closed.

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There are two main varieties of bottom connection fittings according to the design of the body:

  • Direct. Designed for connection of radiator modules to pipes coming out of the floor vertically, since the outlet of the assembly has an external thread, the pipes must have outlet fittings with a union nut (American pipe) or a compression coupling with the transition to the American pipe.
  • Corner. Angle fixing systems are the best option from an aesthetic point of view, in this case, the pipes come out of the wall at a small height from the floor, and the threaded sockets of the angular fitting are connected to them with a coupling nut installed on the pipe ends.

To connect the node with the line of steel pipes use the American pipe, for cross-linked polyethylene (metal plastic) using a special compression connector Euroconus. Its nozzle is inserted into the pipe and pressed to it by the outer ring with a slit through the union nut rotating around its axis, which together with the cone seal connects the mating parts with each other.

In addition to the standard design with integrated shut-off or control valves that resemble binoculars, the construction market offers a fairly wide range of products with a design that differs from the typical unit. The basic modifications of the assemblies presented in the trade network:

  • With shutoff or control valves. The fitting is designed to connect to a two-pipe system, mounted in the body of the ball or screw valves with a recessed head for a flat screwdriver allows you to adjust the flow of supply and return separately when necessary balancing, as well as to disconnect the radiator from the heat carrier line.
  • With integrated bypass. This is the scheme of the Hummel radiator fittings in its lower part has a bypass channel, the diameter of the passage of which is regulated by a screw valve. This design is efficient for single-pipe systems where it is desirable to maintain the same inlet temperature for all radiator heat exchangers. Additionally the Hummel radiator fittings are supplied with eccentric nuts, which are required for connection to pipe bends with different axial spacings to avoid faulty installation in case of misalignment.
  • With remote bypass. The radiator connection diagram with by-pass makes it possible to increase the temperature of the flow in order to increase the heating of the following radiators and thus equalize their heat output throughout the circuit. By-pass connection is connected to the radiator from the side, the by-pass tube is connected to the radiator top point via a fitting with a thermostatic head. Since the fluid flows through the bypass to the top of the heater and then flows back down into the circuit via the return, it heats much more efficiently than a purely bottom connection version with a heat loss of about 20%. Also in the model with vertical bypass includes a screw to regulate the return flow of the coolant, sometimes an automatic air vent is built into the top.
  • Injector. To the varieties of bottom feeder devices can include injector devices, connected to the side of the battery from below, the scheme includes a tube inserted into the outlet housing nipple. Hot medium flows into the radiator through the inlet around the tube, and through it returns to the return. In the side part of the injector there is a valve regulator, in some models it is replaced by a thermostatic regulator, also in the device there is a possibility to adjust the intensity of return flow with a screw.
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In addition to the above devices, produced a number of other modifications of n-fittings, with different design features of the fixture devices with cross flow direction, elements with a lateral branch for water drainage (drainage), with transition eccentrics, shifted alignment of inlet and outlet openings.

Node connection diagram

The main types of radiators for heating, which are connected to the low supply, are steel panel and bimetallic (can withstand high pressure), much less located below the outputs are found in the design of the aluminum radiator and tubular modifications.

Since the liquid supply from below can be used in one-pipe and two-pipe system, its scheme does not differ from other methods of connection and connection of radiators (lateral, diagonal, top). With a one-pipe distribution, the standard heating circuit requires manual or automatic adjustment; the Tichelmann (traverse) distribution, in which the total length of the supply and return heating circuit is the same for all heaters, helps considerably to simplify the balancing.

Connection diagrams

The radiator has holes at the ends to connect the pipes with the coolant flow into the radiator and out of it (return). There are the following connection schemes:

Side

The supply pipe is connected to the top opening on the end of the radiator. The heat carrier travels through all sections from top to bottom and is led out via the return flow connected to the bottom hole at the same end.

In the upper hole on the other end is installed Maevsky tap to bleed excess air. A blanking plug is provided in the remaining lower opening.

  • For use in apartments with a one-pipe distribution system.
  • Length of radiator no more than 1 m (heat loss increases with the number of sections).

Diagonal

The supply of coolant through the top hole on one side, the return flow through the bottom hole on the other side of the radiator. The heating medium flows diagonally from top to bottom.

  • Efficient heat transfer in any number of sections.
  • Allows several radiators to be connected in series.

Bottom and seat

The supply pipe enters at the bottom hole on one side, the return pipe exits through the bottom hole on the other side of the radiator.

Lower heating radiator connection diagram: pipes pass between the floor and the radiator.

  • Used with concealed piping in the floor.
  • Thermal efficiency is 30% lower than diagonal (stagnant coolant in the upper part of the radiator).

Reference! Most often in private homes heating pipes are laid on the wall between the radiator and the floor. Make a diagonal connection upwards next to the radiator.

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