How to remove the radiator: the technology of dismantling cast iron, aluminum and bimetallic radiators
Most often it is necessary to perform the dismantling of cast iron heating radiator, which has already served its century. But sometimes you have to decide how to remove a bimetallic radiator. Modern radiators are the easiest to dismantle.
How to assemble aluminium radiators
Work on the removal of the heating radiator may be needed in the following circumstances:
- When cast iron radiators leak between the sections. In this case, the distance from the supply line is small, there are many sections. With an ordinary radiator wrench can be impossible to reach the nipples, which are on the side of the blind plugs. Therefore, you have to remove the device from the supply side. To make the dismantling emergency, you need to know in advance how to remove the radiator correctly.
- If there are leaks at the connection points of the radiator. To change the drain (whether threaded or welded), it is required to dismantle the appliance.
- Sometimes it is necessary to replace the radiator with a different device with better performance characteristics or a more modern design.
- Radiators also need to be removed for preventive work to remove the scale inside. Sometimes it is done by annealing. After this procedure is necessarily required to replace the inter-section gaskets.
- When repairing an apartment to glue or paint the wall behind the radiator, it must be removed. Gluing wallpaper near radiators is not recommended during the heating season, they will not hold, so this should be taken care of in advance.
- There are also other cases: for example, it is decided to convert from a one-pipe system to a two-pipe system. Radiators must be dismantled carefully in order to reuse them. Particular care should be taken with aluminum appliances.
Before putting in a modern radiator, you need to figure out how to remove an old heating radiator. Cast iron radiators, although durable, but they are difficult to remove, if only because they are very heavy. To figure out how to remove a cast-iron radiator, you need to understand the ways of connections.
Therapy reset your laptop BIOS
Why Therapy? Because we will not interfere in the “body” of the laptop, and we will achieve the result by regular means. At this stage, the question “how to remove the battery BIOS” we are not interested in.
To begin with, we turn on the laptop and study the start window
In most cases, the bottom of the screen should catch your attention. Exactly in this area the manufacturer specifies the names of keys which allow to enter BIOS on this PC model
If the instruction manual from a laptop or desktop computer is preserved. you can refer to the documentation. This information is always printed for inquisitive users.
The most often used keys are F2 or Delete, in some cases F10. There is no complete compatibility, unfortunately, because all computing devices are different and use different proprietary standards.
After finding out which keys are used, to enter BIOS you need to press them at a certain moment. The signal for manipulation is a loading screen. If the operation was successful a blue screen with different menu items and sections will appear. This is what BIOS looks like.
In the next step, we will look for the tab labeled Exit. Almost all manufacturers use the same name. The tab is located in the top menu. Go to the section and select the line Load Setup Defaults, in the next step we look for the line Exit Saving Changes.
If the knowledge of English does not allow for self-translation. you can use Google Translate on your mobile device.
In the vast majority of possible problems, after these manipulations, the laptop begins to work properly.
How to wash the radiators inside and outside
One of the main tasks of any housewife is to keep all the corners of her house clean. Heating radiators are no exception. And many have a fear of how thoroughly we will have to clean old batteries, on which accumulated centuries of dust. But we should not worry, because for a long time already invented useful tricks that make life easier for cleaners. In order to understand how to wash the radiators inside and outside, you should only read this article and get all the most important.
Why do you need to clean a radiator
Sometimes the housewives have a question: why do we need to clean the radiators?? After all, sometimes the dirt on them is not visible at all.
Heating devices rather quickly become covered with a layer of dust. This happens for several reasons:
- Open window. The wind blows, and all the rubbish is already flying into your apartment.
- “Dust collectors” that are in the same room as the radiator: carpets, a large number of books, soft toys, curtains.
- Dry air in the apartment. In addition to dust, it carries a lot of other troubles.
- Animals, especially long-haired ones. A huge amount of hair will be deposited on the heater.
That is why it is a good idea to periodically clean the radiator inside and outside. Otherwise, you can get the following problems in the future:
- Grease stains, dirt hardens and gives the radiators an unaesthetic appearance.
- Sometimes a layer of debris is so thick between the sections that the radiator ceases to do its job properly. In other words, there is a decrease in heat transfer, as a result of which the room is much worse heated.
- Also, dust particles, which in any draught begin to rise into the air, negatively affect people with a sensitive respiratory system. They can cause allergic reactions and worsen the well-being of asthmatic patients.
- If the radiator is not emptied, they can cause corrosion in the future.
To prevent rust, for prevention it is necessary to apply substances with an anti-corrosion composition to the heater.
Ways to quickly clean the radiator
Let’s understand in detail what are the methods for cleaning cast iron, aluminum and bimetallic radiators.
Dry cleaning of the radiator
This method should be used at least once a year. As the name suggests, it means that the radiator is cleaned superficially: from dust, cobwebs, crumbs and other light stains. Batteries are cleaned of debris inside with a broom, vacuum cleaner or dry rag.
Wet cleaning of heating batteries
Carried out at least once every 2 years. This method will help get rid of grease and stubborn stains. But before you start it, it is necessary to perform a dry cleaning. Next, you need to assess the degree of contamination: light, medium or heavy. Because depending on this will be able to understand what aids and chemicals to use to quickly clean the radiator.
Useful tips on how to clean the radiators
Hostesses can take note of some interesting tips.
The cleanliness of the radiator must be maintained at all times, which will always make it quick and easy to clean the surface. This makes the appliance last a lot longer.
If the radiator is equipped with a protective screen, it must be removed before washing a cast iron or aluminum radiator. The most effective way to clean the grille is to place it in a bathtub and wipe it thoroughly with a cloth soaked in a soapy solution. And then dry well with a clean cloth.
In the case if the heating is turned off, it is possible to remove the radiator completely. Then you can soak it in the bathtub, previously covering it with a thick material to avoid damage to the enamel. If necessary, add detergents. Then the dirt and impurities come off much more easily if you just rinse the sections with a good flow of water.
When using wet mopping, make sure you take care of the surrounding materials like wallpaper, laminate flooring and parquet. It is therefore recommended to cover them with a waterproof material. This can be a cloth, film or an old unwanted piece of linoleum.
Clean your cast iron radiator carefully. Because the surface of cast iron is uneven and has some defects that can hurt your hands. It is best to clean with rubber gloves.
If the heater has a totally unattractive appearance and does not wash out in any way, all is not lost. Special acrylic paint can help.
If you use different chemicals or boiling water, you need to think about hand skin safety. Namely wear thick rubber gloves.
Household appliances for washing the battery
If the mistress is interested in how best to clean the battery from dust and dirt, then the answer will be: with household devices. After all, cleaning is much faster if you use a vacuum cleaner or steam generator.
What home “helpers” are effective:
- The hair dryer. It makes sense. dust particles are well blown off with a stream of air. And in order that they then do not fly around the room, it is worth to hang a damp cloth behind the heater. Then all the rubbish will be deposited on it.
- Vacuum Cleaner. Pretty useful device. Just a few minutes and the result is ready: the batteries inside are clean. And for convenience you can use a small nozzle, which almost every manufacturer adds to the complete set of a vacuum cleaner or make such a thing out of improvised means, such as a sleeve from a toilet paper.
- Steam cleaner. It’s sure to be the dream of every neat freak. In this appliance the steam is pressurized by a high pressure. As a result, the jet is powerful and very hot. So if you are perplexed, how to wash a bellows radiator, the steam cleaner will definitely help you in this difficult matter. However, you should remember about safety when working with it. It is necessary to avoid getting the jet on the skin, otherwise burns will not be avoided.
- Electric kettle. If you pour boiling water from a kettle on a cast iron radiator, then most of the debris will wash away. But in this case you should put under the heater a tray to collect water. a tray or a large basin.
How to remove the radiator: the technology of dismantling cast iron aluminum and bimetallic batteries Advice from Builders On DomoStr0y.ru
Depending on how it is connected to the pipes and the type of fittings may require different tools and technical solutions. And with them we will have to get acquainted.
Dismantling is necessary in the following cases:
- If a cast iron radiator leaks between sections at a short distance from the connections. If there are many sections, the length of the radiator wrench is often not long enough to get to the right pair of nipples on the side of the blind plugs. The only solution is to disassemble the radiator from the supply side,
Leak between the sections. a typical disease of cast iron radiators.
- If there are fist joints on the inlets to the radiator. To replace the drain (threaded or welded) it is necessary to remove the heater completely,
- When replacing radiators with new ones (with a higher heat output or more aesthetically pleasing),
- When restoring radiators by annealing them,
Cast iron sections clogged with fossilized sludge can be restored to working order by heating them (e.g. in a fire) and hitting them with a wooden or rubber mallet. The burnt-out dirt pours out through the manifolds. Of course, after annealing the gaskets between sections must be replaced.
To wallpaper the window niche, it is better to remove the radiator.
Why are we talking about different ways to dismantle radiators??
How they can be connected differently?
- The fittings used. Traditionally for the installation of cast iron radiators of the Soviet type a bunch of jumpers (pipe with a long thread) and locknuts were used, nowadays radiators are more often connected with American style. quick disconnect fittings with union nuts,
On photo. connection of aluminum sectional radiator with American pipe.
- The position of the pipes in relation to the radiator. Connection can be single or double sided. It is important when installing on the connectors: one of the through radiator plugs will have a left-hand thread.
- Many of the houses built in the 80-90s use convectors as radiators. Convector is a coil of steel pipe of the same diameter as the riser, with increasing heat dissipation fins. Typical way to connect the convector and steel riser is with butt weld.
Heater is connected to the riser pipe with welded joints.
It should be noted that it is much easier to remove the radiators in the summer, for the reason that the heating is off, so if you can, it is better to leave such work for the summer time. But it is not always up to the owners, so you should always be prepared to have to change the radiator in the winter time. However, even this work, if you follow the instructions, will go smoothly, without problems.
For private homes, which are far from always have batteries, a heat accumulator, which warms the house and the furnace without the need for firing in the morning and in the evening, will be excellent. Installing the heat accumulator can also be carried out with your own hands, there is nothing complicated about this case.
Cutting off the heating medium supply
Before the radiator can be removed, the heating must be turned off and the water drained. How to do it?
I will explain how to turn off the heating in an apartment building. For standalone heating systems is difficult to give any general recommendations because of their individuality.
The simplest scenario is to turn off the water with valves, ball valves or throttles installed on the pipes. It is sufficient to shut off the stop valves on both supply lines. and you can disassemble the connections on the radiator plugs, previously placing under them a basin or other container for draining water.
Between the supply lines with shutoff valves must be installed jumper. Without it, a closed restrictor or a faucet will stop circulation throughout the riser. Very soon your neighbors will come knocking on your door and begin to question your moral character.
The correct connection: the shut-off ball valves on the supply lines and the bridge between them.
If the supply lines are deprived of shut-off valves, you will have to look for and dump the riser. Here’s a little lyrical digression.
In apartment buildings with flow distribution two layouts of outlets are used:
- The upper inflow means taken to the attic supply. Risers connect it to the reverse outlet located in the basement or basement. Each riser operates independently of the others and is shut off at two points. at the bottom and at the top,
A couple of schemes for heating with an overhead connection.
- In a house with a bottom-flush connection, the supply and return pipes are installed in the technical basement. The risers are connected to both outlets in turn and connected in pairs by crossovers on the upper floor of the house. Accordingly, two risers will have to be disconnected. the supply and return riser.
To determine the type of distribution, look in the basement. If the perimeter of the house laid two horizontal pipes in the insulation. you have a bottom filling, one. the top.
Bottom connection: Both return and supply pipes are installed along the perimeter of the house.
First find your riser. In the basement it is easier to find your way along the stairs between the entrance and the first floor landing, in the attic. through the apartment windows. What you do next depends on the type of tap.
In the case of the upper riser, the procedure for disconnection will be as follows:
Jan shows how to remove radiator covers to clean the dust out.
The riser branch from the supply riser in the attic looks like this.
- Unscrew the plug one or two turns and wait for the fall of the water flow hitting the threads. This way you can be sure that the valves are in full working order,
- Unscrew the plug completely. Water hanging in the riser will pour out after you open the connection to the radiator.
Here are instructions on how to disconnect with your own hands the heating riser in the house with a bottom outlet:
If instead of a stub on the riser is a dumpster, the task is greatly simplified.
- Ajar the valves on the neighboring risers. This way you will identify the riser associated with yours,
- Fully open the valve you do not need. Match your riser to turn off,
- Unscrew the plugs on yours and connected with it risers.
How to remove the battery installed on the American?
Installation and removal of the radiator on the american takes no more than a couple of minutes.
The only problem that may arise during disassembly is the significant force required to unclamp the steel lines for diagonal connection. In this case, slightly tilt the radiator on the brackets, and the Americani will disconnect.
How to remove the radiator, connected to the supply pipes?
- Use a pipe wrench to unscrew the locknuts on the supply pipes. The locknuts always have right-hand threads, regardless of their location relative to the radiator,
- Bend the locknuts all the way down to the end of the threads of the jambs. If layers of paint and rust prevent from doing this, preheat the hose with a construction hair dryer, blowtorch or improvised gas torch from a spray bottle and its nozzle,
Left. original position, right. threaded locknut.
- Remove any remaining compacted linseed from the threads (old threads are usually lined with lead wax-impregnated sanitary linen). This can be done with a flathead screwdriver or a knife,
- Remove and remove the radiator plugs after the locknuts. With a one-sided connection, both of the gland sealing plugs are right-hand threaded, but with a diagonal connection, one of the gland sealing plugs is left-handed. A thread reversal is indicated by the letter “l” on the plane of the second plug, located on the same side of the radiator.
To unscrew the cast-iron plug use a pipe wrench.If it does not unscrew, heat the manifold of the first section. Then the thermal expansion plays on your side: the manifold diameter will slightly increase, and the threads will unscrew with a little effort.
Be prepared for residual water and dirt to come out of the opened radiator.
I underline: it is not the cap that needs to be heated, but the section.
An unpleasant surprise awaits you when unscrewing the left plug: by turning it, you will simultaneously screw a drain plug into the radiator. If there is a threaded joint on the supply side. do not unscrew the radiator plug, but unscrew the socket or corner piece. It will go into the hole in the plug and then after the disassembly of the radiator it can be unscrewed without any effort.
Diagonal connection on the connectors. On the left side you should not unscrew the plug but dismantle the thread nearest to it on the supply pipe.
What to do if the bottom of the cast iron plug breaks off, but the threads remain inside the section?
- Warm the manifold,
- Putting a chisel to the cast iron part at a tangent to the progress of its unscrewing, strike it with a hammer for a few revolutions,
- When the edge of the thread appears out of the manifold, unscrew it with pliers.
It is not uncommon for the long threads on the end of a pipe near the jam nut to be corroded by rust or a fistula. What to do in this case?
- Short pipe fitting with long and short threads. Brass is better. Yes, its price is two or three times higher than that of the steel part, but this is compensated by virtually unlimited life.
The way to repair the pipe is very simple:
As a winding on the heating I use sanitary tape impregnated with a quick-drying paint on organic solvent. It keeps the organic fiber from rotting at low temperatures and from burning out at high temperatures.
Condition of the paint-impregnated linen after several decades of service.
Fixing the leak without turning off the heating
A small problem, when the water slightly seeps and begins to drip on the floor, is eliminated with a tight winding of rubber. Use bicycle inner tubes, rubber gloves, etc., to. д. Cut strips of sufficient width and wrap them tightly around the problem area of the pipe or battery. To secure the top clamp or rigid wire, twisting its ends with pliers.
In the store you can buy special clamps with a rubber gasket. By fixing them to the damaged area, you can temporarily fix the problem. Experienced craftsmen are advised to use:
- winding fabric impregnated with epoxy resin. The only disadvantage is that this requires a dry surface, sometimes you have to turn off the heating system and drain it;
- zinc whitewash is used in the same way;
- in some cases, heat-resistant sealant will help, but you should know that this acid-based product increases the damage on the aluminum battery, suitable only for products made of cast iron;
- Another way is to putty the hole with the so-called cold welding. It comes in two varieties: liquid (it is impregnated with cloth) and in the form of plasticine. The latter is kneaded in your hands until soft and smeared on the damaged area.
Important! Stay on the safe side! Always wear rubber gloves, work in a ventilated room.
Repair of aluminum radiator with your own hands in a car
Repair of aluminum radiators has always caused a stir, both on the part of car owners and craftsmen. The first constantly wanted to eliminate all malfunctions, the second to make money. In this article we will try to consider all aspects of repair of aluminum radiators. All of the following applies equally to both cooling radiators and furnace radiators.
The most common malfunctions of radiators:
- appearance of cracks in the section of the radiator supply and return pipes;
- the tightness of the tubes is compromised;
- the seals are not sealed properly;
- appearance of holes and cracks as a result of mechanical damage;
- Weak fluid flow, as a result of clogged tubes.
Construction of aluminum radiators
First, let’s look at the construction of aluminum radiators and what composite materials are used during their production. The first type is a traditional aluminum radiator with plastic cisterns, it may differ depending on the model the type of clamping the cisterns and the manufacture of the core. As a rule, cisterns are clamped by wave rolling or serration.
Sometimes it may seem that the only difference is the method of rolling, but this is not true. Without going into detail, we note that the type of gasket used between the bottom of the radiator and the cistern imposes certain restrictions, or, in other words, entails the use of a particular type of rolling. Now let’s look at the types of cores.
Dialed cores are divided into:
These radiators are more complex to produce, and, accordingly, they cost much more expensive than prefabricated. The point of the core is that it is dialed like copper, but then sent to a special furnace, with an inert-gas environment and a strictly defined temperature for sintering. Then, when the core is ready, the plastic tanks are connected to it using wave rolling. Naturally, there are also combinations of the above methods in nature.
As a rule, prefabricated models are based on round tubes with a cross-section of 7-11 millimeters, and set plates of heat sink, they are not welded to the tubes, but simply put on top of them tightly. The advantage of this design is cheapness, since almost all the work is done mechanically, without the help of welding. But still there is one type of prefabricated radiators, where the tubes are not rolled through the silicone gaskets to the metal mesh, but soldered to the aluminum. To these radiators, 99 percent of cases, the tanks are connected with a toothed roll of a certain type.
Slightly different are all-aluminum radiators, which have both cores and tanks made of aluminum. The cores of these radiators are always made by solid soldered technology.
But, surprisingly, not a single radiator cooling radiator of a major manufacturer, does not apply this technology, because the tanks may need as much material as directly on the core. The only exception are exclusive U.S. radiators, they are made to order by a capricious owner of “drag” or restored “classic”.
In our country this technology can be met either in radiators of some manufacturers (for example, DAEWOO Nubira, Lanos) or in models of Chinese or domestic manufacturers. But these two described variants, although cheaper than the copper-brass radiator, but the quality of their assembly and design is completely copied from the brass models, and inherits all the “inherent” flaws. In addition to the above, it should be said about the aluminum stoves, their tanks are not welded to the grid, as it should be, and glued, and even with glue that is dangerous to use even to the garden watering can, not to mention the radiator.
That is, to make a quality aluminum radiator, which, in addition to good heat sink, will also be able to withstand mechanical and hydrodynamic loads for a long time, requires careful design and use of sophisticated equipment during production. And it increases the cost of the final product, which immediately puts it from the category of leaders, compared to the “copper” product, in the level of expensive outsiders.
As, for example, the brass radiator of a GAZelle, with our roads, seldom goes without failures for 40000 Km, and it is approximately a year with the daily load of 100 Km. After overhauling the radiator with his own hands, its lifetime, unlike the factory, we can increase by 2 times, but to do it with aluminum counterpart is quite difficult, and most importantly, not very profitable in financial terms. Here is a reason to ponder whether you need to save money when buying between an aluminum and brass radiator?
As a rule, masters call as exotics furnaces and radiators, which can be met very seldom. As an example, the 1992 Opel Omega heater, it is made of all-plastic mesh (bottoms) and tanks made monolithically, and connected to a dialed core, which has oval tubes, with a welded turbulator. In addition to this example, there are also a number of rare varieties, but these, again, are rare.
It is necessary to notice that the more exotic a radiator is on your car, the more difficult it is to repair it to car mechanics, and not only because of complexity of a combination of different materials, but also for the reason that experience of many masters simply does not give the chance to apply the checked and true variant of repair from the first time. That is, an inexperienced technician will do the repair at random, while learning the subtleties, so to speak, practicing with his own hands on your radiator, gaining experience.
As already mentioned above, plastic cisterns lighten the weight and make the construction cheaper. But it should be mentioned that the term “plastic”, considering the tanks, is not very correct, since they are based on polypropylene, and no one will disclose other additives and admixtures, as their survival in a competitive environment depends on it. Fiberglass reinforcement, fillers, and other tricks are found here.