How to remove the cover from a viessmann boiler

All about boilers Vitopend

The new Vitopend 100-W A1JB and A1HB wall mounted gas boilers were launched in 2017.

Vitopend 100-W A1JB and A1HB Installation and Operating Instructions 5791982_04_2017_MASA_Vitopend_A1HB_A1JB

Vitopend 100W A1HB/A1JB. View inside.

Often, seemingly elementary action such as reading the instructions before installing the boiler people do not do. A little tips on how to mount the boiler a little easier.

Vitopend 100W A1HB A1JB. F05 error. Removing the fan. Venturi tube.

Vitopend 100W A1HB A1JB. Error F05. Removing the air pressure switch.

Vitopend 100 W A1JB A1HB F02 error. Boiler temperature limiter tripped.

Vitopend 100 W. F02 error. Overheating. Circulation pump replacement.

F04 error. No flame signal. The ionization electrode may be defective in this error. Apparent fault. Electrode is dangling in the insulator. Removing ignition electrode unit with ionisation electrode.

Vitopend 100 W A1HB/A1JB. Make-up valve. Remove automatic air vent and safety valve.

Turn controller on. Activate winter and summer mode. Changing the temperature of hot water and coolant in the heating system. Switch off hot water.

Viessmann de-icing coaxial kit for Vitopend wall mounted gas boiler.

Vitopend 100 WH1D. Open new box and check completeness.

Vitopend 100 WH1D. Double-circuit with a closed combustion chamber. Preparing the boiler for installation. Mounting the boiler on the wall.

Vitopend 100 WH1D. Electrical connections.

Making up the heating circuit node of the Vitopend 100 WH1D double boiler. The single-circuit boiler has no water make-up. Turning counterclockwise. The valve opens clockwise. the valve closes. Close by turning until limit stop

Vitopend 100 WH1D Removal of the combustion chamber cover on a boiler with a closed combustion chamber.

F2 fault. The temperature limiter has tripped. Check the fill level of the heating installation. Check circulation pump for correct functioning and evacuate the system. Check the temperature limiter and connection cables. To unblock, turn the temperature regulator knob almost fully clockwise and then back again.If the blockage is not released after the temperature limiter has cooled down, replace it. Error 38. Boiler temperature sensor defect possible.

Vitopend 100 WH1D dual circuit hot water flow sensor (flow rate).If the display does not show the “tap” symbol when you open the hot water faucet, the most likely malfunction is a faulty hot water flow sensor due to contamination of the sensor.

To get to the ignition electrodes, replace the burner with a transfer to another type of gas, replace the main heat exchanger or just clean the boiler you need to remove the front sheet of the combustion chamber. By removing it we get access to everything in the combustion chamber.

Vitopend 100 WH1D and WH1B. Remove the fan. The fan rarely fails, but it may be easier to remove the fan for replacement of the venturi tube than to remove the coaxial flue.

Vitopend 100 F5 error. Possible malfunction. Condensate in the air relay hoses Remove air relay hoses and blow them out.

If the boiler error F5 appears after start without water, the Venturi tube is defective. It is melted.

Repair Viessmann Vitopend 100 24kw

Two circuits gas boiler does not work, the error F5.

Started to think how much money and where to find the right experts.In the process of searching more and more doubting all the professionals (marking up the price on the spot) decided to try to repair it myself.The more so there is an experience similar already

Turn off gas valve and startRemoved the protective cap

Vitodens Range: How to remove the front case

Yellow. gas valveOrange. control unit, control board.Red. combustion chamber. Green. pressostat.Blue is the fan (also called the turbine)

The boiler model is written on this control board cover.

I turned it on and saw how the gas boiler works.At first it worked, but after a while refused to start at all.”Floating trouble”

After reading the first links on the Internet, I decided to start with the pressostat and the fan.

Before removing it I took a picture as always not to mix it up.The functions of tubes “P1” and “P2” are signed there and there, not to be confused) One for excess air and the other for the vacuum.

Pressostat check simply.It’s normally open.The contacts close when there is an overpressure of 140-170Pa (pascals), this is 0.01-0.02 atmosphere.

It’s easy to check, turn on the multimeter to the contactsAnd it’s very easy to blow into it without touching the tube with your lips.It worked for me.When blown, it rings (contacts closed)

Got to the fan.It was working, but I was confused by the noise and construction dust that accumulated on all surfaces inside the gas boiler after the repair (4.5 years ago when we moved in).

Now I’ve taken a note, everything has to be wrapped in film during repair.

To begin with, you need to remove these 4 springs, and unscrew the nut easy tightening on the 10.

I hollowed out.Tried to blow out the blades with 7 atmospheres, but the dirt on the fan is well nailed.Creating an imbalance that kills the bearings.

Full size The balancing weight is showing

Washed and blew it well.Reassembled it and cranked it, it’s chafing hard.

I see a catch, there’s a piece in the disassembly area.Turned out to be a fan retaining ring.

Looked carefully and realized that it was broken even during the factory assembly (the crack was old).The ring is made of textolite or hetinax, it looks like.That’s probably what caused the dop. noises.These are the kind of disposable parts the manufacturers intentionally put in.

What to do now?The diameter and width of the groove won’t allow to do it quickly in a kolhozny wayAgain brain SturmAnd then I remembered that similar rings I saw on the fuel filter guides when replacing it on the cx-7

Sometimes it’s nice not to throw out junk)

It fit the width, but didn’t fit the seat diameter.I had to sharpen the inside with a file

The impeller is scraping again, I put a washer on the M6 (6mm diameter shaft) and everything is fine.

At the same time I looked at the combustion chamber.On top of the tube with fluid to be heated, below the longitudinal burners with “candles”

Full size Interesting loose heat insulating material.

Installed it, that’s it.I turn it on, it works.The fan is running quieter than it was and does not rattle.

I begin to study the algorithm of boiler operation.First the fan should start, then the pressostat should work and only after that will the burners light up.

And decided to check the first relay on the board Panasonic ALDP124, responsible for turning on the fan.It is easy to take off, all the plastic is on the pivoting latches.

The board is also only on the latches, just lift up and pull out.(one rigid side latch was cut off for easy assembling and disassembling)

When I plugged it in I looked at the color tunes that were jamming.Which stopped at an extra push.Conclusion burned out contacts on the relay

This relay was an adventure to find.Either no, or waiting (for ali) and t.д. And t.п.

I had to spend the evening on the capital traffic jams for a trip to Mitinski market (famous in Moscow market of radio components and electronics / electrics)

Found something similar from a very talkative and kind-hearted guy.You should not have talked to him about moonshine, colvados.

Relay with coil 24V for 5A at 220V.Gave information on the relay, but not necessarily)

Before soldering, consulted with an electrician, because the relay has a lower resistance winding of 1.22k ohm over native relay and 2.88kOhm.Thereby increasing the load on the power elements of the board.Traced where the signal comes from.Worth power switch (it seems to be with transistors), in general, it laid the reserve for exceeding the load of 20 times.(it is next to the gas pressure regulator on the board, where the screwdriver adjusts the blue block) Everything will hold!

I soldered the car wires to 0.5 squared (I counted by the diameter and the number of wires) And soldered the relay.

All worked clearly, as it should.So far, left it like this, on the magic duct tape.

Official spare parts price at the beginning of 2019.Gas pressure regulator from 6,000₽Control board 14,000₽

Technical characteristics

Consider the general characteristics of boilers series Viessmann Vitopend 100-W:

Parameter Value
Boiler type Wall mounted gas convection
Fuel type Natural or liquefied gas
Power 12-34 kW
Number of loops One or two
Gas flow 2,77-3,94 m3/h
Maximum pressure of the heating medium 3 Bar
Coolant temperature 40-80°
DHW temperature 35-57°
DHW pressure 10 bar
Power supply 220 V 50 Hz

How to eliminate malfunctions and breakdowns on Viessmann Vitopend boilers

Wisman Vitopend 24 kW dual circuit gas boiler does not want to start. While pressing start button, burner is in operation. As soon as you release the button, the unit fades. What is the cause of the malfunction?

We assume that there is a defect in the thermocouple or a problem with the gas valve. There may also be a drop in gas pressure in the supply line. In some cases there is insufficient voltage control board.

A problem has occurred recently. Starts up very poorly. The igniter lights up, but the main burner fire is absent. Could you please tell me what the reason is??

Probably a component failure of the ignition unit. You need to service the machine and clean the igniter.

Why the wall mounted boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 W A1JB stops switching off after the heating has reached the desired temperature? Heating goes up to 85C, then a malfunction occurs. When restarting, the problem starts again.

Most likely the board is out of order, the temperature sensor is broken, the safety sensor button is broken. We can not exclude the possibility that there was a mistake in the settings of the automatics.

Could you please tell me the reason why the coolant temperature does not rise above 70 C? We try to raise the temperature, but the display shows it is the highest setting. How to set the heating?

If the device does not increase the temperature of the heating circuit, we can assume the following problems. The maximum heating temperature limit of 70 C is set in the default settings. There is a decrease in the rate of draft in the chimney.

Gas single boiler Wiesman Vitopend 100 does not work satisfactorily in the heating mode of the hot water system. Alternating hot and cold water flows out of the tap. Tell me what the problem is?

Functional faults can occur as follows. Cold water mixing has occurred because the 3-way stopcock is not working properly. Excessive fouling of the heat exchanger. Clean the heat exchanger.

Water keeps leaking from the tap on the underside of the boiler. The device itself can not be started. What should I do?

It is evident that the heating medium has been discharged from the protection group valve. This sign indicates that the pressure in the system is too high. The filling valve might have been left open or the expansion tank has to be pumped up.

Explain what kind of malfunction occurs when the pressure rises intensely and the heating fluid dump valve is triggered? The heating symbol appears invariably on the screen during the heating cycle of the appliance. What’s wrong??

A heating line temperature sensor malfunction is present. No normal circulation in the heating line.

What is the problem if the Vitopend 100 W A1HB wall mounted boiler shuts down on a regular basis?? Recently the piezo igniter did not work. The appliance was serviced that month. What can it be??

There seems to be a malfunction in the smoke extraction system. You should inspect the chimney. If the piezo igniter does not work, this indicates that one of its parts is defective due to voltage fluctuations or that water has entered the igniter.

Can anyone tell you how to clarify the chimney stack? Soon three days, as a return draft is observed, in which the smoke began to fall directly into the kitchen. I made the chimney myself. It is a tube of steel. Perhaps somewhere there is an error.

The boiler works fine for hot water supply, but when you turn on the heating, the water boils quickly and the unit malfunctions. What is the problem and how to get rid of it??

Supposedly the circulation pump has a defect, the circuit board is broken, the temperature sensor is broken. The filter screen can also be fouled.

At the stage of preparation of hot water the device starts to deliver alternately cold and hot water. I can not figure out what the problem is. How to adjust the heating of the coolant?

It seems that the heating system is clogged or the heat exchanger needs to be cleaned. Also the relay controlling the pressure could be broken or the circulation pump could be faulty.

The main factor may be the wrong configuration of the chimney. Often there is soot contamination, which reduces its capabilities enough. In addition, it is necessary to inspect the hood in the room.

We use a gas boiler Viessmann Vitopend WH1D. The unit quickly rises to a temperature of 96 C, but then stops on overheating. Subsequently, when it cools down, it goes on reset. What it depends on?

Failure of the overheating function indicates a malfunction in the circulation process. Previously recommended to inspect the taps on the radiators. They are set to the “open” position. Then the filter is checked for contamination and the heat exchanger is checked to see if it is clogged.

I ran this model in the fall of that year. Approximately a few weeks later, the unit starts to make a lot of noise. I would like to know what is the reason for the noise in the boiler?

Most likely the presence of limescale in the heat exchanger. When the water is hard, lime will accumulate in the wall of the radiator tubes over time.

We are thinking of installing a Viessmann Vitopend 100 W 24 kW boiler for heating the house. Please advise how to start up this machine correctly?

There are steps that need to be taken in order to put this machine into operation correctly. Connect the electrical supply to the appliance. Set the gas valve in the open position. Then start the burner. At the end set the desired temperature.

We have plans to make repairs. Advice on how to drain the appliance?

According to the manual, this operation is performed as follows. Disconnect the appliance from the electricity supply. Close the gas valve. Open the automatic air vent a little. Open the drain cock. Next, remove the leaking fluid. It is also possible to drain the water through the safety valve. This component is mounted on the bottom of the appliance.

Can you tell me how to diagnose the operation of the 3-way valve? There is a suspicion that this part does not open all the way. For heating, the far radiators are poorly pumped, and the hot water cycle warms the heating water inlet pipe under the boiler unit.

You are correct, we recommend inspecting the 3-way valve for a hanging piston rod in the center position. In turn, we advise to make diagnostics of the heating system.

We have a boiler WH1D working in the apartment. Before this morning it was working properly. Currently after five seconds of starting it has started to go out.

There is a suggestion that he can not get the fluid into the system. Explain what this fault factor is? The probable factor for this malfunction is the ionizer electrode not detecting the flame or the lack of circulation.

Just recently discovered a problem with this model. It began to whistle during operation. I tried to reset it. It worked, but it still whistles. Can anyone tell me why it happens?

In many cases, heavy whistling occurs if the pressure setting on the burner nozzles is incorrect. You need to check the set value and correct it, if appropriate.

Water got into the boiler yesterday and the unit started functioning with delays. Let’s say we set some temperature, but the heating mode goes up to 24 degrees, and then the unit stops. Can you tell me what might be wrong??

In the case of water on the control board unit, it can be assumed that the board has deteriorated. We advise you to reset it by linearly switching off the appliance from the power supply. Then restart it and check that it works.

Vitopend 100 W A1JB010 connected to the system a year ago. Now the wick is lit for five seconds at start-up, but the main burner does not catch fire, and the appliance begins to go out because of this. How to solve this problem?

You could be saying that the ignition module is defective or that there is a fault in the burner. In any case, you should check that the phasing is correct when you connect it to the power supply.

Repairmen did an installation of the same model at the end of 2016. Approximately a few months later the hot water supply stops working, but the heating mode functions as intended. Tried to open the tap of the hot water, but the device only shows the temperature and does not consider it necessary to heat. Why the D.H.W. does not work?

The three-way valve is probably defective. Must be changed.

Explain why the boiler is equipped with a safety temperature sensor?

This part blocks the flow of gas to the burner in case the primary heat exchanger fluid overheats.

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The primary heat exchanger needs to be washed and cleaned. Tell me how to correctly remove this component?

The primary heat exchanger is easily removed from the unit using a simple screwdriver. Here’s the disassembly process. Drain the appliance using the drain cock. The next step is to empty the hot water system. Remove the fixing screws of the heat exchanger and take it out of the cage.

The repairmen did the startup with the heater. After about 3 months, the water pressure in the unit began to drop. Sometimes it resets and stops working. That is, it doesn’t hold pressure at all. Why doesn’t it hold pressure??

If the unit doesn’t build up water pressure, the booster valve is most likely leaking. When the cutoff occurred and the pressure drastically reduced to zero limit, the three-way valve is defective.

Tell me how to clean the cold water filter?

First, drain the water from the DHW circuit. Second, unscrew the nut on the flow sensor. Then we take the sensor and filter out of their socket. After removing it, we clean it of accumulated impurities and dirt.

The unit used to make a humming noise when starting up, but now the noise has gotten worse. In the beginning, the sound was gone quickly, but now it lasts longer. Has anyone had this problem?

Occurrence of excessive noise shows the presence of lime scale inside the heat exchanger, which is not heated equally due to the uneven thickness of the walls. The more clogged the heat exchanger, the more noisy the unit and the reduced heat output.

Appliance is operating but water does not seem to be circulating through the system. The return line pump is noticeably hot. Why is it heating?

The filter/mud filter is probably clogged or somewhere there are closed taps, which does not let the heat flow. Circulation pump can also be damaged.

Why can’t the mountain be heated? water? Water is barely warm. Explain what happened?

Search for damage in the following ways. Alternatively, the hot water temperature sensor is malfunctioning, the sensor should be replaced. Possibly a malfunction of the unit’s power controls for heating water.

All the time I observe a flame failure during kindling. The burner is not dirty, the chimney is fine, there is no problem with the draft. Where to look for?

The unit is unable to detect a flame due to a poor signal from the combustion mechanism. It is recommended to examine the wiring from the ionization sensor to the electrode. Probably need to tighten it. The insulation of the sensor can also burst, which must be replaced.

Main faults of gas boilers Viessmann

There are many possible causes of faults in any complex design. However, Viessmann boilers are rugged and can compensate for many changes in operation by themselves.

The most common malfunctions of units are considered to be:

  • F5 error. It means that there are various problems with the chimney or the possibility of removing the exhaust gas from the boiler. Occurs due to ice blocking the pipe, foreign bodies or birds, broken switches or Venturi tubes, etc.п.
  • Breakdown of the network controller. Occurs due to voltage fluctuations. Since it is very easy to avoid damage to the controller. you only need to install a voltage regulator. the case is not under warranty.
  • Failure of the heat exchanger occurred due to hard water. This problem is widespread in our country, especially in homes, fed from their own wells. Lack of technological water treatment creates conditions for rapid accumulation of lime deposits, so that the heat exchanger gets. Because of it, the heating mode has to be increased, which leads to overheating and premature “fatigue” of the metal. The heat exchanger can be flushed, but more often it has to be replaced. The solution is the use of water softeners or filters.

This list is not exhaustive, other problems may also occur, although they occur much less frequently.

All errors have their own code, which appears on the display on the signal of the corresponding sensor.

Usually, the first occurrence of the error is considered as a consequence of the induction, high sensitivity sensors. The error is reset with “R” button, but if it repeats over and over again, call a specialist for repair.

IMPORTANT! Trying to solve the problem yourself is not recommended. It is possible to put the boiler out of operation, create problems with the gas equipment and lose the warranty validity. Any errors that occur signal for an immediate call to a service technician.

remove, cover, viessmann, boiler

Saving fuel

The electronic ignition switch enables the Viessmann Vitodens 100-W WB1C110 to start and extinguish the burner automatically when required, thus saving fuel.

The modulation of the burner flame changes the intensity of the fuel supply infinitely and, if necessary, turns the flame up and down to reduce gas consumption.

Operation and control

The gas boiler “Viessmann Vitodens 100-W WB1C110″ is controlled electronically, is equipped with a display and has a port for connecting additional devices (usually thermostats, programmers, room controllers, etc.).). The advantage of the electronic system, that it does not require the constant presence of a man and allows you to save fuel (as written above), minus. it is more complicated than the mechanical and depends on voltage fluctuations (could fail at surges).

Thermostat and pressure gauge. The thermometer is needed to control the temperature of the coolant in the boiler, and the manometer indicates the pressure of the coolant, this is an important parameter, t.к. Its exceeding can lead to failure of individual parts or the system as a whole.

Repair and operation of Wiesmann boilers

Installed and connected a two-circuit boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100. Since we will still put BKN, we decided to convert it into a single-circuit. Is it enough to change the hydraulics or is it necessary to change the control electronics??

Why would you change anything?? Turn off the water heating and forget (glue) about this regulator. I have had a two-circuit boiler for six years in this mode. Heating circuit shut off because the water is hard and risk the main function of the device. heating, did not. For the heating of water is quite enough electric heater. Or from the point of view of economy. Do not engage the DHW circuit, do not convert to single circuit. Buy a boiler and a three-way valve and install. True, there will be one disadvantage. The DHW in the boiler will be heated at the DHW temperature that is set on the boiler. The boiler will not go to maximum power and temperature when the boiler is requested to heat DHW.

Gas boilers Viessmann Vitopend-100 wh1b old releases had a three-way valve to switch the heating / hot water. The movable seals of this valve. A very unreliable device and often leaks. Best mode for this connection. not move at all. From a boiler I need its main function. heating, and the water supply with an electric storage heater was installed and worked before the gas installation. So I continue to use it without any inconvenience, while being confident that the unit will not break at the most inopportune moment because of the unreliable switch node. For me it is more comfortable. To be sure of something important than to live in expectation of trouble. And what relates to the domestic comfort, I provide quite adequate alternative ways. Apparently, fortunately, but I do not distinguish between water heated by gas, from water heated by electricity. In cost. also due to the smallness of the values. If I consider it necessary to use HWS boiler, it will only need to open two valves on the water supply to the unit. While in this need not arise.

Decided to watch the work of the gas boiler Wiesman, now.3-4 outside, but with a strong wind. So now it works, somewhere like this: the battery temperature knob (coolant water) on the number “1”. at the very least. Lights the burner and heats 45-47 degrees for 5-6 minutes at minimum burner power (one division of 4 or 5). So after these 5-6 minutes the burner turns off and the temperature gently descends to 33-35 (all numbers from the screen of the device) for the same about 5-6 minutes. And so on in a circle. That is about 5 cycles per hour on and off./ off. This counts as a clock?

In operation wall mounted single boiler Viessmann WH1D atmo 24kW, the house 2 floors. The first floor is almost everywhere on the floor tiles and floor heating and aluminum radiators under the windows. Only 2 rooms (a small dressing room and a living room about 12m2) have laminate flooring and hence heating only radiators. On the 2nd floor tiles are only in the SU and there is a warm floor and a radiator, in other rooms everywhere else there are only radiators under the windows. I actually all this to what. I want to understand the algorithm of the room thermostat. Here you have set it to 22C for example. At the boiler, as I understand it is necessary to set the “knob radiators” to a larger, say, a 3 per cent, which will be sootv. Probably about 60-65C supply. Let’s say we started all this at 20C at the place where the thermostat is hanging. The thermostat contacts will close the necessary contacts, and the unit will heat / work. When we got to 22°C, the thermostat opened contacts and the boiler stopped. Up to which threshold will the thermostat keep the contacts open?? Up to that proverbial hysteresis (if I spelled it right)? That is, assuming this parameter is, for example, 0.5C, then when the temperature drops to 21.5C the thermostat will close the contacts? So or am I misunderstanding something?

This is correct. At the set 22 degrees, it will turn off at 22.5, and will turn on at 21.5, that’s if the shoulder is 0.5. Hysteresis.1 C. 2C for mechanical regulators. At the electronic. the hysteresis is less than. to 1C.

Can you advise what to do yourself or a normal technician to adjust and maintain? 1. the pressure on the pressure gauge has dropped now 0.2bar, I assume that it is necessary to look at the pressure in the expansion tank and pump the necessary. Flushing is possible. 2. Dips in the temperature of hot water: not a constant temperature is maintained, the burner is off for a few seconds and the water has time to cool, in the end it is not comfortable to swim. 3. advise what temperature controllers (radio) can be connected to the unit, preferably a specific model. How to connect several of them, t. е. To put in each room (if the boiler itself allows) or does it not make sense and limit one. In operation wall mounted gas boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100-W (wh1d, 24kW) is not under warranty.

Installed and connected gas boiler Vitopend. Can you tell me what algorithm causes the error F2? As far as I understand, the sensor is triggered by the maximum temperature installed at the outlet of the main heat exchanger? But why in the service manual “fill the system with water / water supply”? Is there a pressure sensor in this boiler WH1D? The crux of the matter is that the new unit has been hanging since the fall on a used heating system. The system. is a metal-base laminate in places poured in concrete MS-140 (of course there is nothing good, but the system was flushed and pressurized before installing the boiler). The system is small, the expansion tank is enough. Boiler is the highest point in the system. No thermostat. Error F2 appears intermittently, without any reason (once a day, once a week). Come system pressure “0”, on the display F2. Last time I checked the pressure in the expansion vessel with the system turned off and the pump plug unscrewed, the pressure was 0.5 kgf/cm2. I pumped air up to 1 kg. I refill the system with water up to 1.4-1.5 kg. After a day again error F2 and 0 kg in the heating system. When feeding water, the air vent on the pump starts “whistling” a lot. During the start up it looks like there is air instead of water in the appliance. If the membrane in the expansion tank is leaking, can air from the expansion tank get into the boiler Viessmann? And as an option. Occasionally (once a day, once a week) water accumulates in the heat exchanger and triggers the temperature limiter accordingly? There is no possibility to check the expansion tank for malfunction at once (there are circumstances). After pumping air into the expansion tank and make-up, the dynamics of the coolant pressure change from temperature about 25C to 64C is about 0.6 kgf/cm2. Also, as far as I saw, to replace the sensor for the maximum temperature with a known good one, you will need to drain the water from the unit?

If in fact the pressure is zero and the pump is bled, most likely there is air lurking in these nooks of the MS-140. It has to be driven hard. In case of leakage the pressure would just drop. Injection of air is possible only at negative pressure compared to atmospheric pressure.

In operation, two-circuit boiler Wiesman Vitopend. F2 error initially on display. Now on closer observation initially error F5 appears. I reset the error, start it up. Runs without any problems. Water pressure in the system is stable overnight at 1.5. 2.2 kg. The heating system seems to be tight (no leaks, and when F5 appears, it holds steady). There must be leaks, but they are not that critical. There is a suspicion that the boiler turns on the pressure switch with error F5, then the temperature in the room drops, built-in expansion tank is not enough to compensate for the changed volume of water, begins to suck air. From where? Through loose connections? Through the air vent on the pump (I do not know, I have not disassembled), structurally it is possible? I have a Viessmann WHOA and the air vent is installed at the outlet of the heat exchanger. Further the antifreeze protection works and respectively in an empty appliance (when checking after the error F2 air only in the boiler and repeat that it. the highest point in the system, the radiators are standing with water) burner begins to heat an empty heat exchanger with a bloated pump. F2 appears on the display. The question arises whether such a development is possible. When the error F5 the boiler will turn on the burner to protect against freezing of the heat exchanger. There is a suspicion of bad connection of the outlet pipe in the coaxial chimney and the vapors when entering the intake pipe through a loose connection frost settles on the walls, blocking the access of combustion air. Next is the air pressure switch and F5. The header is against icing. You can’t see the slope, you have to measure it. The length of the chimney is small, but in the wall 100% there are connections. The pressure switch checked with a multimeter, there is no water in the silicone tubes (there are traces of vapor). Venturi tube in the fan is normal (there are also traces of condensation). So far left open the plug in the intake pipe on the elbow of the flue gas outlet and so far a small slit in the furnace lid. I will estimate the volume of the system on the expansion tank.

Hello, please tell me, on the boiler vitopend 100 w dual circuit boiler after turning off the hot water, it turns off and then turns on a second later and flashes the top lamp green flame indicator. The unit doesn’t turn on anymore. It only starts working after the mains is disconnected and switched back on. What to see? Set the pressure to 1.3-1.4.

Faulty boiler Viessmann WH1D 24,8 kW (2-circuit), running the 2-nd week, running into freezing temperatures. F5 error 7 times. What has already been done: 1. Connected via a Teplocom1000 UPS, phase is respected. 2. Installed the nozzle on the coaxial chimney to prevent the formation of icicles. 3. This weekend opened the lid, blew the two tubes from the pump to some fancy thing. There was some condensation. Error fixed by resetting the boiler. Regular trips to the cottage to turn off. on. Replaced by ABB and Xital contactor, but still what to do?

I can offer my variant. Make a hatch in the outdoor, suction pipe, indoors. In this case, the combustion air is not taken from the street, but from the boiler room, no frosting, etc. п. problems. The only thing you need to make sure that there is a free flow of air into the boiler room.

Dual boiler Vitopend-100 WH1D 24kW in operation. Apartment 70 sqm. m, a new building. Will there be underfloor heating in the kitchen and hallway. No experience in using such devices. In this regard, there are questions: 1. I want to hide the device in a drawer of kitchen furniture. Water pipes to lay in strokes in the wall, later they will be closed with a tiled apron, taps under the countertop. The gas pipe will remain freely accessible in the closet. Is it necessary for ventilation and subsequent maintenance to leave the “ceiling” and “bottom” of the hinged cupboard is not closed? 2. Have thoughts on installing the Vitotrol 100 RT (programs are not needed). Will it really improve ease of operation for me and improve the operation of the boiler (increase its life and reliability)?

We have a gas boiler Viessmann of the same model, operated in the apartment. When servicing appliances require “freedom” to the appliance from above, (where the air inlet/outlet). There is something to unscrew and there is access to the expansion tank, nipple, etc. д. Have to remove the shelf made over it. At the bottom you only need access to the tap to add water to the heating system and in general to all sorts of taps gas and water. There is nothing to cool there. The “exhaust” pipe is hot. Approximately 50-60C. (when the unit works naturally, especially in winter).)

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In operation wall mounted boiler Wiesman Vitopend 100 w with the connection of an indirect water heater (installed 200l). And so installed the heating, poured the liquid diluted with water (initially) all worked fine and heating and hvs, literally a month later he started humming when heated hvs already at 60 degrees (in the boiler). Removed the heat exchanger. flushed with citric acid (firstly black sludge came out, then black soot), flushed everything and radiators too, now only distilled water under pump pressure to 1.5 bar as it was. Three months later, the same thing again. Flushed it again, poured regular water, three months passed. There is a hum when heating the boiler (boiler heats 56 degrees) hum starts when the boiler is somewhere near 60 degrees and ends when the unit reaches 80 (5 minutes) and heats another 5 minutes without a hum at 80. Looks like black soot again as the strainer was a bit clogged with dirt. Called the service, they can not do anything (they say the water is bad) warranty does not give. What can be, tell me. Is it also possible to flush it with citric acid without removing its own heat through a bucket or tub.

Where on the coaxial chimney should the condensate drain be installed?? Boiler wh1d with closed combustion chamber, located 1m away from the wall.

Can be set at once on the knee 90 degrees.

I thought I was the happy owner of Wiesmann Vitopend turbo single boiler, but I have questions! 1. Originally changed the atmospheric appliance to a turbine to take oxygen for combustion from the street, as the boiler is located in a small room 4m sq.(volume for burning atmospheric is small), for this purpose, installed a divider coaxial chimney, where the combustion products output to the existing sandwich chimney horizontally behind the wall, and the inflow took from the hole in the wall. Recently I found out that it is forbidden to supply air to the unit from the street. In this regard, the question. where to get it from, if you do not want to burn oxygen from the house (that’s why I changed it)? 2. Wouldn’t I have a reversal of draught in the flue when turning off the turbo? This situation occurred to me on a former atmospheric unit with a semi-turbo, as a result of which it smoked. 3. Is it possible to use the boiler’s native temperature sensor (Drazice OCS 160ntr 2016) by connecting it to the appliance with a cable? If not, where the sensor is placed and how it differs (both there and there sleeve with a cable) and what are the options for replacement? 4. Does the boiler have a blow-off valve?

It is not forbidden to supply air from the street, but your option is not the best. The pipe will be in condensation all the time. 2. It shouldn’t if the chimney is as instructed. 3. No. Genuine NTC 10. 4. There is a 3 bar safety valve.

The gas double boiler Vitopend 100 turbo 24kW has a certain make-up valve. And the plastic wrench. And how does this makeup valve work?? There is a connection to the hot water circuit somewhere inside? And when I turn the key, the water from the water line will go into the heating circuit? Correct? But if so, can it go straight from the plumbing and fill with water through this faucet? How do I set the boiler safety group? I blew air into the heating circuits at 1.5 atmospheres, then opened the valves, and suddenly the boiler started bleeding. I twisted a part that looks like the cap of a tube of toothpaste. If you look from the front, it is on the right, under the hood. No more bleeding. This is the safety group? Turn this part and adjust the opening pressure of the valve? I’ve already called a master, he will adjust, but in the meantime I had to pressurize my harness.

Correct. 2. Valve not adjustable. Turning it opens and closes. In your case it was ajar apparently.

Installed and connected wall mounted boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 WH1d. In the manual operating voltage of the boiler-230v. My boiler at this voltage begins to malfunction. When ignition starts, gas lights up for a second and then goes out. After a few seconds the boiler lights up a second time. The gas fires up and fires down (or maybe goes out). If the voltage is 232-237v., Then the third ignition follows, the gas lights up and then goes out. Red diode is on. If the voltage is 220V or lower, the boiler works fine. Voltage is lowered by the old stabilizer with manual adjustment. It’s 230-240 in the evenings and at night. The Chinese stabilizer does not help. Something with the board? Boiler without a turbine, with its own traction. The draught in the chimney is good. Problems start at 225-230v or higher. Maybe the power supply on the board does not stabilize some voltage? Once a day, spontaneously triggered three-way valve (if the unit is in standby mode, the heating is off, the hot water regulator on the temperature mode, but the tap in the sink closed). Goes into heating mode and then comes right back (at any voltage). I can tell by the characteristic sound.

Faulty boiler Vitopend 100 W. Constantly rises pressure and called the master and he cleaned the entire three-way valve and heat exchanger and burners well everything you can, checked the pressure in the expansion tank and the pressure is still growing overnight rises from 1 to 3 bar during the day when you use hot water pressure is almost in place. The unit is 7-8 years old and has not changed anything yet.

Water valve does not hold or there is a breakdown in the secondary heat exchanger. You can check whether it is a valve or a heat exchanger, simply: Close the water inlet to the boiler. Open the tap of the DHW and look at the pressure gauge.

Trouble with the gas boiler Wiesman. The error pops up like this. I turn it on, turn the heating on 2.3, ignition, runs until the temperature is reached, stops, ignites again and runs to temperature, at 3 or 4 or 6 times the error appears.

Replace or adjust flue gas pressostat.

After replacing the presostat on the boiler Viessmann found out. the appliance worked perfectly with the control unit open (when it is tilted to the horizontal position). As soon as you put the control unit in the normal position (upright) stops working. Removed the board and soldered to the board contacts of the transformer coil (it is the heaviest part there). Naturally, having previously discharged the condenser. I also went through the contacts of relays and contact groups. Result. Boiler works fine.

Please tell me the reason. Does not turn on the heating of hot water, no error displayed, just does not respond. If the cause of the three-way valve or the water flow sensor, advise where they are and in detail, how to clean or dismantle them.

If you do not react, you need to check the flow sensor.

Faulty boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 W. Has been in operation for 7-8 years. Serviced during operation according to the operation manual. There appeared the following problem: the pressure in the heating system (CO) is constantly growing up to 3 bar, and the safety valve is triggered. The pressure rises even when the boiler is switched off.

The problem is not in the membrane, if you have even turned off the boiler, and the pressure is growing. Water make-up valve or secondary heat exchanger.

Faced with the following problem: wall boiler Viessmann WH1D, chimney, running 4 year. In the same line with the washing machine is included, the distance of one and a half meters. At first (but not immediately, the first time this phenomenon did not exist at all) the problem was that if the machine turned on the hot water. When closing the faucet, the boiler did not stop, triggered the protection of overheating. Thought. Nothing wrong, the pressure in the riser decreases, the sensor does not see. Now the same pattern can happen when the machine is wringing, draining. When the machine is off, the boiler works fine. Is it worth poking around or immediately carry the money for a new sensor flow?

Flow sensors in this model is very unreliable, check the voltage on the body of the machine when washing. The sensor is piezoceramic, it is unlikely it can affect, but the phase on the body from the washer can.

Two-circuit Viessmann Vitopend 100 boiler in operation. At the beginning of last year consumed 13 cc per day at 1 position and the house temperature was 14 degrees. All summer we installed other batteries. Now there are 22 batteries and agv is using 20 cc per day per unit. If you put it on 4, it will burn 1200 cc. How to avoid going broke. How to reduce the consumption of gas?

The gas valve needs to be adjusted. To do this, you need to know whether the boiler is turbo or atmospheric, set the gas at minimum and maximum, and do limitation on the board by the centrometer on the cubic meters of heated area.

A wall mounted Vitopend 100 boiler is installed and wired. The heating circuit starts to heat on its own in the disconnected state, i.e.е. Knob in zero position. This happens when you turn on the water supply. The light of the heating circuit is not on, but the radiators are heating. And even after the water supply is switched off, the boiler is still working and the radiators are heating up for some time. At the same time none of the lights are on. What could be the problem and can you fix it??

This fault is caused by the three-way valve, try loosening the screws on the valve itself, most likely the valve is stuck.

Last year I bought a Viessmann Vitodens100w, it worked for a season, I did not use it in summer. This year the radiators and underfloor heating is poor, the boiler works very strangely-5-10 seconds. Burners work, then shuts down for 5-10 seconds. The error Fd occasionally pops up on the display. Everything is fine, so it has nothing to do with the circulation. A house of 170 sq.m.m, there is underfloor heating everywhere and enough radiators. If anyone knows, please advise. In the service center they say that poor circulation in the system, but moving the temperature regulator to the extreme right position, the heating works.

The system is clogged, if a filter is installed, it is necessary to clean it.

information on gas boilers models: characteristics, operating features, accessories, controls and adjustments, troubleshooting.

Repair of boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 with your own hands

I’m not a master of gas boilers and I’m facing their repair for the first time. Let’s start at the beginning: the boiler was installed 6 years ago. The ventilation ducts are sealed with stainless steel pipe 11.5 meters long. Installed the aluminum radiators and metal-plastic pipes.

There were gas explosions when trying to ignite the boiler. Contacted a specialist, but that didn’t help solve the problem. He explained many reasons, you can not determine them yourself. I decided to call a craftsman at home. Only an authorized service center can repair a Wiesmann gas boiler with preservation of the warranty. The wizard checked everything, cleaned, made adjustments to the gas dosing unit.

For some time the boiler worked properly, but after a year appeared incomprehensible noise. It turned out that the circulation pump is broken. Had to buy a new one for 8000.

The biggest problem with this boiler. Explosions during ignition. I figured out how to solve them. Replacement of the ceramic piezo element. Replaced, for a while when igniting the gas did not explode, everything was normal. In 6 years, have already replaced 3 of these, but this has not solved the problem with the boiler. On those devices where there are 2 circuits, one of which during the whole summer period does not work, there is often a deposit, rust. The problem can be solved like this:

  • Disconnect the device from the power supply. Shut off the water.
  • Shut off all the taps on the device.
  • Slightly open the hot water valve in the kitchen.
  • Open water inlet tap. All water drains through the kitchen faucet.
  • Remove the screws that are not painted. Carefully remove the valve (it can not be removed easily, I used a screwdriver).
  • Remove rust, scale as much as possible.
  • Turn off gas tap, remove wires from board. Reconnect the valve.
  • Turn off the water heating, turn on the heating flow. Turn the device on with the button. When the valve stem has returned to the reverse position, remove the finger from the button. Repeat the procedure

After that you can assemble the boiler back, if necessary use lithium grease. Shut off the water taps in the unit and the hot water in the kitchen. Open taps under the boiler and water supply in the apartment. Fill the system with water (it is necessary to open the black valve and wait for the filling).

After the repair work, test the boiler, check its performance. I have no problems. You can get information about the repair of two-circuit gas boilers via the Viessmann hotline.

Question: I have a boiler viessmann vitopen100 whoa, when you turn on the DHW, the boiler starts making noise, and sometimes the noise is not heard. Changed the secondary heat exchanger, the problem remains. When I turn on the heating circuit noises stop, but as soon as I turn on the DHW again, the same thing starts again, what the problem may be?

Answer: It depends on what kind of noise. Could be air in the circuit, could be boiling the primary heat exchanger, could be noisy DHW water passing through the flow sensor, for example.

Question: Could you please advise how to remove-disassemble-service the three-way valve boiler viessmann vitopend 100w wh1b?

Answer: Drain the boiler water (coolant). Unscrew 2 screws and remove the valve from the boiler, then unscrew 2 screws and disassemble. Threads on the plastic that moves the stem may be worn out.

Question: I have this problem, when you turn on the boiler Viessmann Vitopend in heating mode, the green light under the heating knob lights up, the circulation pump turns on, but the unit does not ignite, although the temperature in the heating system is much lower than pre-set, it also does not ignite when you open the tap on the mixer tap, while the green indicator under the handle lights up the DHW temperature.

Answer: Try to unlock the boiler. To unblock, turn the knob “heating” almost to the right and then back. The ignition process is repeated or turn on the extended fault indication. For detailed fault indication, first turn the “heating” knob to the left as far as it will go and then to the right as far as it will go. If you have a turbine boiler. Check the condition of the monostat.

Question: Boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 WH0A. The boiler operates normally until there is no desire to raise the temperature in the CO circuit to 75″ C. After a short time, the boiler shuts down on failure, the “furnace automatic fault” indicator is lit without flashing, after switching on the extended fault indication, the red indicator flashes 3 times every 10 seconds, “air pressure switch does not switch”. What is the problem?? There may not be enough pressure in the membrane expansion tank? The manual says “top up if necessary”. How to do it correctly? What should it be?? In CO pressure 2 bar. Condition of the pipes and the gas exhaust system checked at the beginning of the heating season. It’s OK. I repeat, the boiler works without failure at CO temperatures up to 50 C.The error beats out after the temperature CO to 75 ° C.

Answer: Check the return filter, it may be clogged and the boiler boils when the temperature increases and so gives you an error. The pressure in the boiler is not controlled by electronics. But most likely the maximum gas pressure is wrong and the diffuser gets blown at full power. Or not enough air for combustion.

Question: The problem with the boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100W WH0A in the DHW mode (in summer) without opening the tap it turns on for a short time. What can it be??

Answer: If the pressure in a pipe of cold water jumps. The flow sensor can work for a short time and turn on the boiler. This happens when there is a hydrophore. You need to shut off the cold water, disassemble the flow switch (4 hex bolts), remove the axle and clean. Sometimes it helps to change to copper. Ideal is copper 2,5 square.

Question: Boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 WH1b. the problem is. periodically some batteries do not warm, and the rest are warm only on 30% of the area! It operates for 15-20 seconds. and idle for 2-5 minutes, when working output 55-60 degrees, and the input 12-18! When switching off, the difference in input and output is the same! I read in the instructions that the boiler should when you turn on the min power, and then go to maximum, but I always go to maximum when turned on. The heating area is 210m2, the pressure is 2 bar, all the air released from the system. Masters said that this is how it should work, but the batteries are barely warm. Where to look for the problem??

Answer: The problem with the coolant circulation. With normal circulation and 210m2 boiler will not work 15-20 sec. If the return flow is almost ice cold. means there is no flow through the heating system, if the water enters the heat exchanger at a much higher temperature, then you have a broken 3-way valve or clogged bypass and the boiler is racing the coolant inside itself.

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Question: How should the circulation pump on the boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 WH1B. With or without stopping. On mine, when the burner is turned on for the first time, the circulation pump is turned on along with the burner and runs without stopping.

Answer: The pump always works when the heating is on. If a room thermostat is connected, when the set temperature is reached, the pump shuts off (run out time of about seven minutes). When operating in summer mode (only DHW), the pump operates only when preparing hot water. Stops at the end of the DHW after seven minutes.

Question: I have a boiler Wiesmann WHD1. Is it possible in this unit to connect a second external knob to the DHW temperature controller so that both would work? The reason is. The default setting of the regulator is to heat water up to 60 degrees. Which allows you to take a shower with a comfortable temperature and water pressure (supplied hot cold). But when using water in the kitchen, including the minimum flow of hot water (at which the boiler is triggered to heat) adding cold water is a strong stream of water and a lot of splashing around. It is convenient when you set the D.H.W. regulator to a lower temperature of heating, then just turn on the hot water without the cold. Seems like a simple solution, constantly turn the knob and set it, but the boiler works for 2 parts of the house, and is not installed on our side. So I thought to connect an additional regulator.

Answer: Install in the gap DHW electric boiler.

Question: Tell me, what is the difference between the pressure setting on the nozzles on the gas valve, and the potentiometer setting, what is the difference in the operation of the boiler?

Answer: The valve regulates the minimum capacity and maximum for DHW, the potentiometer maximum for heating and power at ignition.

Question: Wiesmann Vitopend 100 WH1B boiler. The problem is: after turning off the heating during the day the working pressure of the system drops to almost zero. Clears the three-way valve?

Answer: The three-way valve has nothing to do with pressure. Either there is a leak or air pressure in the expansion tank is dropping. Maybe somewhere the air exchanger does not work.

Question: wissmann vitopend100 WHO boiler. Why does the burner light up when cooking hot water, but after 5-7 seconds it goes out all the time?? Never had this problem before. Heat exchanger cleaned. did not help. What else to check?

Answer: Check the three-way valve. It is most likely jammed in the heating position.

Question: Boiler brand Viessmann Vitopend 100-W-WH1D (but without display, not provided in this variant). Been in use for 4 years. The problem is. heating does not work. When you turn on the heating function gas turns on, lights a few seconds and then goes out, green. indicator light. Lights constantly, but the heating (floor, radiators) does not work. No pressure.45 bar. Temp 36 C. Periodically (about once every 20-30 min.) the process repeats. The red light does not turn on. Hot water is working fine. This happens every season after a long period of not turning on the heating function, and then after starting everything works. Can you tell me how to start the heating??

Answer: Check the three-way valve. If the pressure rises during heating, then the tank must be pumped.

Question: How to correctly remove the secondary heat exchanger?

Answer: Drain the water from the boiler, shut off the cold water and unscrew the two Allen screws.

Question: Boiler viessmann Vitopend 100 WH1B problem with DHW when you turn on the DHW regulator, the boiler turns on, turns on (water in the taps is closed), the green diode lights up. In this case, the heating circuit does not turn on until you turn off the DHW circuit. After switching off the DHW circuit, the heating works fine. The unit has been in operation since 2008. Was flushing the D.H.W. exchanger and maybe a three way valve (this is not exact t.к. did not control the operation). I am coming to the conclusion that the DHW flow sensor is defective. Am I right? How to check if it works? Maybe it needs to be flushed. I understand it is located at the entrance to the DHW loop and it does not reach (like a temperature sensor). This problem started after re-bonding of boiler when it worked for some time without connection to the heating system. Another pressure after turning on the boiler rises from 1 to 1,3-1,5 and the arrow slightly vibrates. What could it be??

Answer: Really the flow sensor is defective. This is easy to see, by disconnecting the connector from it, the DHW indicator goes out. Next, you need to remove the flow sensor. Disconnect the cold water, remove the two stoppers and remove the sensor. If there is no skill it is necessary to unscrew makeup pipe from makeup faucet and lift it up (without losing the gasket), it will facilitate access to the bottom stopper. Then we purged the sensor and put it back. You need the accuracy, if incorrectly installed when you open the faucet cold water will be a puddle. The stopper should go in easily and completely as it was before. Install the make-up pipe in its place. Lastly, the cause of the sensor jamming is usually the lack of a filter on the cold water inlet.

Question: Boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100-WH1D I close the hot water boiler works, the gas burns, turns off when the temperature is 90, if the knob to the service, and then reset. 03 is displayed. What can be?

Answer: The flow sensor jammed. Stop the cold water and gently blow it out. Do not use a needle.

Question: How to adjust the gas valve on the Wiesmann Vitopend boiler?

Answer: Before adjusting the potentiometer on the board to the extreme right position. Carefully with a small screwdriver all the way clockwise. Pressure gauge on the valve outlet.

Elimination of failures at the boiler Wisman Vitopend

Gas boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100 W 24 kW does not function satisfactorily in the heating of DHW. Alternating hot and cold water coming out of the tap. Please help me find the reason?

The causes of the fault may be. There is a cold water back-up due to a non-functional 3-way valve. The heat exchanger is very dirty. You should have it cleaned.

There is a tap under the boiler, it often leaks water. The appliance itself does not switch on. What I have to do?

Coolant seems to be draining out of the safety valve. In this case, this indicates an increase in system pressure. In addition, the system make-up valve may not be closed or it is recommended to pump up the expansion tank.

Please tell me what often causes the water pressure to increase and why the water drain valve starts to work? On the display every time the heating symbol is shown in the heating mode of the appliance. What’s wrong?

There is a problem with the temperature sensor in the heating circuit. The heating medium does not circulate well in the heating system.

Because of what repeatedly turns off a two-circuit wall mounted boiler Wisman Vitopend WH1D? Today the ignition piezo did not work at all. The unit was serviced a month ago. What’s the problem?

We assume that there was a malfunction in the smoke evacuation process. You must check the chimney. Failure of the ignition element means that there is a component failure due to voltage fluctuations or water penetration.

Can anyone help troubleshoot the chimney problem? For two days now there has been a back draft and the smoke is blowing directly into the room. The chimney was handled on its own. It is a pipe made of steel. There may have been a miscalculation.

The boiler heats household water perfectly, but when you start heating, the water immediately comes to a boil and the unit goes to the accident. What kind of fault it is and how it can be repaired?

Possibly circulation pump doesn’t work, control board malfunction, temperature sensor malfunction. At the same time the filter screen can become soiled.

While providing hot water the appliance alternately supplies hot water and cold water. I can’t figure out what’s causing it. How to adjust the heating medium heating by yourself?

The heating system could be fouled or the heat exchanger could be in need of cleaning. In addition, the pressure control sensor may be defective or the circulation pump is defective.

The main factor can be wrongly made chimney structure. Possible contamination of the pipe by combustion products, markedly reducing its capabilities. In addition it is necessary to control the exhaust in the house.

The Vitopend 100 W A1HB boiler is put into operation. The unit immediately rises above 96°C, but then shuts down with an error. Later, when it cools down, can turn on by itself. What’s the problem?

Overheating alarm indicates malfunction of the coolant circulation. First of all, it is necessary to control the position of taps of heating radiators. They are installed open. Then check for contamination of the filter element, and also make sure that the heat exchanger is free of dirt.

Carried out the launch of this model in 2015. After about a few weeks it started making a lot of noise. I would like to know what causes the noise in the boiler?

There may be limescale in the heat exchanger. When the water is hard, over time, lime will deposit on the walls of the radiator pipes.

Wall mounted gas boiler Wisman Vitopend 100 does not start. As long as you keep the on/off button pressed, the burner works fine. If you release the button, the appliance fades out. Please tell us the cause of the problem?

We assume that the thermoelectric converter or gas valve is defective. There may also be a drop in gas pressure on the supply line. In some cases, there is too little voltage on the control board.

A problem has recently occurred. Starting is hard. The ignition device lights up, but there is no flame on the main burner unit. I can’t figure out what’s the reason?

Looks like parts of the igniter are damaged. We recommend performing a technical inspection of the boiler and cleaning the ignition unit.

What is the problem if the boiler Viessmann WH1D stops switching off after reaching the desired temperature?? Heating up to 85°C, malfunction follows. If you restart the boiler, the problem is repeated.

Looks like board malfunction, temperature sensor is damaged, overheat protection button is broken. It is possible that there was a malfunction of automatics.

Please tell me why the coolant temperature does not rise above 70C? We need to set more, but the display shows that this is the maximum. How to regulate the heating?

In the event that the device can not make the temperature rise cycle of the heating system, the following problems are possible. Set the maximum heating temperature up to 70 C in the settings. The chimney draught rate is dropping.

I am planning to build a Viessmann Vitopend 100 W A1JB two-circuit gas boiler in my summer cottage. Please advise how to correctly start up this appliance?

The following procedures are required for the boiler to start up correctly. Connect the appliance power supply. Open the gas valve. Then we turn on the gas burner. Then set the correct temperature.

We plan to do maintenance. Advise how to drain the water from the appliance?

This operation according to the manual should be carried out as follows. Unplug the appliance. Turn off the gas tap. Open the automatic air vent. Open the drain cock. Then collect the water that has drained out. The water can also be drained with the safety valve. This valve is installed at the bottom of the unit.

Explain to me how to diagnose the 3-way valve? I don’t think it’s doing a good job of opening. In heating mode, it weakly pumps the outermost radiators, although on DHW, the heating water supply pipe under the boiler unit is strongly heated.

That’s correct, you should check the 3-way valve for any stems that are getting sour in the intermediate position. We also recommend that you have your heating system inspected.

I use a wall mounted Wisman Vitopend 24 kW boiler at home. Up until yesterday it was working without any problems. Currently, after five seconds of turning on the unit goes out.

It doesn’t seem to be able to pump fluid into the system. Explain the source of the problem? Possible factor in this fault could be an electrode ionizer not detecting fire, or no circulation.

A malfunction with the heater has recently been detected. It started whistling in heating mode. Tried to restart it. Successful, but it’s still whistling. Perhaps someone can tell you what the problem is?

Often a loud whistling occurs when the pressure on the burner nozzles is not adjusted as directed. It is necessary to check the set indicator and correct if necessary.

In the boiler yesterday got water, and the unit began to function with errors. For example, if you set any temperature, and the heating is only up to 27 degrees Celsius, and then it crashes. Explain what went wrong?

If water gets into the control board, it is likely that the board is damaged. We advise you to reset it by completely disconnecting the unit from the mains. Then restart it and diagnose its performance.

I have a boiler Vitopend 100 W A1JB010. Now during start-up the wick is lit for 9 seconds, and the main burner does not take fire, so the appliance begins to fade. What’s the best way to fix it??

There seems to be damage to the automatic ignition or a problem with the burner. To be on the safe side, check for wrong phasing when connecting to the power supply.

I connected the same appliance in the middle of this year. After about three months the D.H.W. circuit stopped working, but the heating circuit works as it should. I tried to use hot water, but it only displays the temperature and does not want to heat at all. Why isn’t the DHW system working??

It is assumed that there is a breakage of the three-way valve. It should be replaced.

Can you tell me why the boiler needs a safety thermostat??

This part stops the flow of gas to the gas burner unit in case of overheating of the liquid in the DHW system.

The primary water heat exchanger needs to be flushed and cleaned. Explain what needs to be done to properly remove it?

The heat exchanger is easily removed from the boiler unit with a simple screwdriver. Below is a description of the disassembly procedure. Drain the water from the appliance using the drain valve. Then empty the DHW system. Remove fixing screws of the main heat exchanger and take it out of the frame.

Made the connection of this unit. After about 3 months the water pressure in the unit has dropped. It is not uncommon for it to reset and shut off. In other words does not hold pressure at all. What could be faulty?

If the appliance is not drawing water pressure it is most likely that the water make-up valve is leaking. When the shutdown occurred and the pressure drops to zero limit, then the 3-way faucet has a defect.

Explain how to clean the cold water filter?

First we need to drain the DHW circuit. Next step. Unscrew the nut on the flow sensor. Then we remove the sensor together with the filter from the recess. After that we remove the impurities and dirt that have accumulated.

The appliance may have been humming during start-up before, but now the noise has become stronger. At first the sound was briefly audible, but now it lasts longer. The sound is short-lived, I have observed such a malfunction?

The occurrence of an unpleasant extra sound indicates the presence of lime scale on the inner walls of the heat exchanger, which heats up unevenly due to the uneven thickness of the walls. The more dirty the heat exchanger, the greater the noise and the lower the heat output.

The unit is functioning, although there is no water circulation in the system. The return pump is very hot. Why is the heating going on??

There seems to be a clogging of the filter/mud filter or somewhere there are closed cocks and this is hindering the coolant flow. Circulation pump can also be broken.

From what stopped the heating of the mountain. water? The water comes out almost cold. Can you explain what happened??

Finding out the problem is a multidirectional process. For example, the breakage of sensor of temperature of DHW, it is necessary to change it. Perhaps there was a problem with the regulation of capacity for DHW heating.

Often we notice a spark failure at the moment of ignition. Burner is clean, chimney is fine, draft is excellent. Where to look?

The device does not detect the spark because of a bad signal from the combustion mechanism. It is recommended to inspect the wires between the ionization sensor and the electrode. You may need to tighten it up. You might also burst the sensor insulation, which should be replaced.

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