- Existence of transport bolts.
- Improper handling, excessive or insufficient load.
- Installation on an uneven surface.
- Shock absorbers breakage.
- Tachogenerator malfunction.
- Bearing Wear.
- Mixing and breaking of counterweights.
Each of these causes gives imbalance, and as a result, increased vibration, knocking, noise, displacement of the machine from its installed place.
The presence of shipping bolts
Most often the bolts are left due to inattention when installing the machine yourself. They serve as a fixing of the tank, protection during transportation. If they are not removed before use, the washer will not be able to operate normally, will shake and bounce. The problem is solved by unscrewing the bolts on the machine’s rear wall. Usually there are no more than 4 pieces.
The instructions clearly state that the items should be sorted before loading, and a suitable mode should be selected for each type of fabric. Do not wash material of different densities at the same time: when wet, the weight of the clothes increases, overloading may occur. In this case, the machine will reduce the speed when spinning, over time more important nodes will fail. Often the drum is filled completely in order to save money or put only one or two things. both cause imbalance.
All four legs must stand firmly on the floor. The worst option for the base is a wooden floor covered with linoleum, the best. concrete, tile. If the installation was done manually, the leveling of the machine may have been neglected. Correct the situation by putting a water level on the cover of the washing machine and change the height of the feet. You can additionally put a mat of thick rubber to neutralize the vibrations, but in case of a serious failure it will not help. If after aligning the feet, the unit continues to shake, then the cause is inside.
Damage to the shock absorbers
This is a common problem in Ardo and Veko models. At the bottom of each washer can be found shock absorber or damper, depending on the model. They perform the same function, but have differences in design. So, the damper does not contain return springs, but only the piston and rod. If you remove the lid and push the tank, it should not rock or jump, but rise a couple of centimeters up and stop. If this is the case, the shock absorbers are fine, but if not, then the gasket between the piston rod and the piston or the mountings are likely to be worn out.
A manufacturing defect or deformation during transportation is also possible. Do not turn on the unit with such a breakdown, the part must be replaced with a new or repair their own hands. If a damper is installed, deformation and loosening of the springs to which the tank is attached can cause imbalance.
To replace them, you need to open the top cover, lift the drum, put something to fix it at the highest point, use pliers to remove the springs. To remove the shock absorber or damper, you will need to tilt the housing, remove the front or back, depending on the model.
Damper replacement instructions
- Unscrew the mounting screws on the rear wall, remove the top cover, powder box and protective panel.
- Remove the control unit, it is also bolted and wired. Before you disconnect the wires, take a picture of them to make sure they are connected correctly. If their length allows you to do without disconnecting them, it is better to do so.
- Tuck the collar into the tank.
- On the front, unscrew the fasteners at the top and bottom, the hatch lock, the panel.
- Dampers are attached to the bolts or plastic latches, if you could not open immediately, it is better to lubricate the part with machine oil. Press in the latch to disengage the locking pin.
- The shock-absorber is fixed on the side wall to the tank or by means of a rod, in the latter case to remove it it is necessary to remove the tank or take out most of the parts.
- Replacement with a new or repaired part is done in reverse order, special attention should be paid to the wires.
The part is a piston that enters the cylinder with external pressure and a return spring. Most often the cylinder gasket wears out, you can replace it yourself or buy a new part, its price is about 1 500
To replace the gasket, a piece of leather or rubber at least 3 mm thick is needed, along with machine oil for lapping. The gasket length is calculated from the inside diameter of the cylinder multiplied by 3.14. Twist, insert into the cylinder, tightening the plug. Lubricate with oil or special grease. It is correct to replace the rubber inserts fixing to the tank and the wall.
For Samsung brands. LG. Bosch the design of the part may be different. If it is impossible to make the seal yourself, you should replace it with original spare parts, it is better if they are bought in the service center of the manufacturer. Repair yields inconsistent results, such a part can serve from 4 washing cycles to 3-4 years of operation.
A set of shock absorbers should be replaced, even if one of them is not yet worn out.
Tachogenerator measures the speed of rotation of the drum and is located on the motor shaft. It looks like a ring with two wires, it measures the voltage during the movement of the motor due to the magnetic field. If it fails, then the control unit will not be able to control the spin process, to regulate the speed of rotation. In such a case, the machine either does not spin at all or does everything at a critically high speed, which leads to imbalance.
To make sure of its failure, no need to remove the motor from the machine, just disconnect the tachogenerator wires. The resistance between them should be about 60 ohms. If you set your multimeter to voltage measurement and turn the shaft by hand, the voltage should increase.
The cause of the malfunction may be the sensor mount, during operation it can loosen. For elimination of a malfunction it is enough to tighten it strongly. Failure of the tachogenerator is a rare phenomenon, if the multimeter shows no resistance, the motor must be removed and the sensor replaced with a new one.
Wearing of the bearing
If other manipulations have not been successful, the cause of the sound and vibration may be the bearing. To replace it is not so simple, to begin work without a complete set of tools it is not necessary, as well as without experience of repair of washing machines. To get to it, you will have to dismantle almost all parts, disassemble the entire unit.
- A set of hex, socket, and open-end wrenches.
- A rubber or simple hammer.
- Screwdrivers to match the size of the fasteners.
- adjustable wrench.
- Gland packing, bearing.
- Blunt chisel to remove bearing.
All your actions should be photographed, because the unit will have to be reassembled. This task should preferably be performed by an authorized service center.
- First remove the rear and top covers with the dispenser and control box as for replacing the damper.
- Open the drum door, remove the clamp, and thread the lip seal.
- Unscrew all fasteners, remove the front wall.
- Loosen the clamp and remove the counterweight.
- Take out the heating element, paying special attention to the wires and the place of connection.
- Disconnect all the pipes, remove the belt from the pulley, take out the motor.
- Remove the reservoir collar and mark its correct location.
- Unscrew the fastening screw by disconnecting the pulley.
- Knock out the shaft with a rubber mallet, you can use a simple hammer if you put a thick piece of rubber.
- Separate the tank into two halves, clean it from all sides.
- Use a blunt chisel to knock out the bearing, remove the oil seal, and lubricate the socket.
- Install a new gland with bearing in the prepared seat.
- Reassemble everything in the reverse order.
In a machine with vertical loading, the repair is made in a similar way, but it is better to see the location of the main units in the manual. It is better to immediately take the non-disassembled tank to a service center. Successful bearing replacement will save 4,000. that’s how much this job costs a craftsman.
Displacement and destruction of the counterweight
To improve balance, the manufacturer uses a concrete stone as a counterweight. Its destruction, deformation of fasteners lead to automatic unbalancing, the fragments of a stone can hit the drum, making loud sounds. Alignment may be accomplished by adjusting the fasteners or replacing the counterweight completely. Plastic and concrete rocks can crack, and metal rocks can loose their mounts. They are located on the back of the drum.
Take out the stone must be very carefully, having a large weight, it easily deforms the tank in the event of a fall. If you can see cracks on the concrete counterweight, they can be covered with a solution of cement and PVA glue. When fasteners cannot be tightened, they should be replaced with new ones. Since balancing the stone is simple enough, the work takes only a couple of hours.
Controlling imbalance begins with proper operation of the washing machine. Many serious malfunctions are a consequence of trivial overloading, improper installation. Of course, as the years go by, any thing wears out and needs to be replaced. Do not ignore the strong vibration and noise, it can mean serious violations in the work. If time is lost, just tighten the bolts and center the drum will not be enough, it is not always easy to find high-quality, original parts and have to change the entire unit. In modern models LED-screens are installed, where you can see the error code. This will help identify the breakage without disassembling the housing.
How to disconnect the washing machine from the water supply
You are going to move and take the appliance with you? Then you need to know how to disconnect the washing machine from the water supply. Disconnecting, as well as connecting, it is important to do correctly, otherwise the technique can quickly break down. In the publication you will find step by step instructions on how with your own hands to carry out work to disconnect.
Preparing the appliances for the move is just as important as the transportation itself. If you skip this step, it can lead to damage to parts of the machine on the road. To avoid forgetting anything, we suggest you make preparations according to the following plan:
- Disconnect the unit from the electricity by pulling the power cord, then disconnect the appliance from the water and sewer. If you move in a hurry, you may forget to perform these simple steps and damage important parts of the appliance.
- Drain any residual water from the connection pipes, connections, drum and drain pump. Then leave the door and filter plug open for a while to allow them to dry on the inside. If you don’t carry out this procedure, the liquid could drip onto some parts of the washing machine (such as the control panel) or wet other items nearby during transport.
- Make sure to fasten the external parts, such as cables, hoses, connectors, etc., in a stable position. п. Sturdy plastic clamps are good for this purpose.
- Seal sharp corners and moving parts such as the door and powder compartment with tape. This prevents parts from being damaged and protects the person who will be moving the equipment from injury.
In the initial phase, it is important not to forget to disconnect the unit from the utilities
When the first preparation steps are done, fix the drum. Even during a jolt on the road, it must remain stationary. The best way to securely fasten it is to use the transport bolts. 4 extended fasteners that come with the machine and fix the tank when transporting the washing machine. They must be screwed into the special holes on the back wall. If you don’t have them handy, the question arises: How to transport your washing machine without transport bolts?? To do this take a screwdriver and unscrew the top panel cover. Between the tank and the walls place any softener, such as pieces of foam rubber or polystyrene, then put the panel back in place and tighten the screws.
To avoid damage to the internal parts of the washing machine, a soft insert is placed between the walls and the tank
Before you move the washer-dryer, it needs to be packed. If you do not have saved factory packaging, replace it with improvised means. You can wrap a cloth around the body of the machine and secure it with a strong rope. you can find these materials at home. It is not recommended to transport the product completely without its packaging. If to observe the rules of preparation, the household appliance will be delivered to the destination intact and undamaged.
Connecting the washing machine
A new washing machine must be freed from the packaging, then the transport bolts and plugs are removed. Such details are installed, so that the moving parts of the unit will not be damaged during transportation.
Transport bolts are unscrewed with a special wrench included in the washing machine, or with an ordinary spanner
In models of washing machines, such as such popular brands as Bosch, Samsung, LG, Indesit, Candy, transport bolts and plugs can be placed in different ways. You can find the exact location and description of the procedure for dismantling the parts in the instruction manual of the machine.
When all the bolts are unscrewed, the holes formed are closed with special plugs supplied with the washing machine.
Connecting to the sewer
For models of appliances not equipped with a special valve, which prevents spontaneous drainage of water, it is important to position the drain hose in relation to the tank of the washing machine. The place of connection of the hose and sewer must be higher than the level of the tank, otherwise the water will go into the pipe. Usually the instructions for the unit indicates the minimum distance from the floor, which should be the end of the hose.
The drain into the drainage system of used water can be organized, using a siphon located under the sink. To do this, choose a model equipped with a separate inlet for the washing machine drain hose. This inlet must be above the knee of the siphon, otherwise dirty water will enter the washing machine.
In the photo you can see the connection of the washing machine drain to the sewer through the sink siphon
If the sewer pipe is at least 4 cm in width, the hose can be connected to it directly. Connecting the hose to the drain, you must use a rubber seal, and ensure that the entry point into the pipe was not less than 50 cm above the floor.
You should not push the end of the hose inside the pipe. the end should not touch the surface of the wastewater.
Drainage of waste water from the washing machine can be organized through a sewer pipe
The easiest way to organize the drain is to fix the hose to the rim of the bathtub or toilet bowl with a special mount in the form of a hook. This method has a drawback: the end of the hose can come off, and then the water will pour out on the floor, and the streams of waste water will constantly contaminate the surface of the bathroom or toilet. However, if you need to organize a temporary drain, this is the most suitable option.
To drain the water from the washing machine you can fix the drain hose to the rim of the bathtub
After connecting to the drain hose to straighten the entire length to avoid kinks, and fix it to the back of the washing machine at a distance of about 80 cm from floor level.
Connecting to the water mains
Before connecting the washing machine to the water supply, make sure there is sufficient water pressure in the pipes (at least one atmosphere). Measure the pressure with a special device. a manometer. To increase the water pressure, you can install a special pump in front of the washing machine.
An important point in the water connection is to install a filter screen at the hose connection to the washing machine. This will protect the unit from debris from the water supply.
At the junction of the water supply hose to the washing machine installed filter mesh
The water supply can be made in various ways. The fastest. connecting the hose to the faucet or to the water supply to the toilet cistern. To connect use a tee fitting, connecting it to the pipe in front of the faucet or at the point of attachment of the water supply hose to the cistern. If the faucet or toilet is far from the washing machine, you need a long hose.
Using a tee, it is easy to connect the washing machine hose to the place of water outlet on the toilet cistern
Connecting to the faucet is usually used as a temporary way, because such a design does not look very aesthetically. In addition, with each wash, the mixer hose will have to turn off.
A little more time is needed for tapping into the water supply. If the plumbing pipe is metal-plastic, it is cut a small piece, and connect the two resulting ends with a special T. fitting, sealing the connection points with the pipe and hoses with rubber gaskets. The ball valve and water supply hose are attached to the fitting.
In a metal-plastic pipe is cut in, using a special T. fitting
If the pipe is metal, use a crimped socket for tapping. It consists of two bolted halves and a threaded outlet. Socket put on the pipe and through the hole drilled through the branch to the water supply. Then screw a ball valve on the branch, and to it. the hose water supply to the washing machine.
It is very important that the washing machine is installed level with the floor surface, otherwise overloading will occur and the unit can quickly break down. Check the position of the machine with the spirit level.
Adjust the position of the washing machine relative to the floor by changing the height of the feet
To adjust the position of the appliance, twist its feet. Never place small slats or other suitable materials under the washing machine. The appliance should only stand on the floor, ideally concrete, which can provide excellent cushioning.
Disconnect a Washing Machine
Connecting to the electricity
It is very important to connect the machine correctly to the mains. the combination of water and electric current can be deadly.
First of all, ground the switchboard. The bar to be used must not be smaller than 3 mm. The socket to connect the washing machine should be three-wire, and if you want to connect the technique through an extension cord, choose one that has grounding contacts.
The best connection is to use a separate wire that comes directly from the meter and has a safety circuit breaker.
How to disassemble an Indesit washing machine
All machinery fails sooner or later. Washing machines of budget category, such as such models of Indesit brand as WISL 82, WISL 83, WISL 102, WISL 103, WISL 105, IWSC 5105 (especially those, which have been used for a long time) often require repair. Breakdowns can be very different, and in order to properly determine the cause of the malfunction and to fix it, as a rule, the machine must be disassembled.
To determine the cause of the malfunction and to fix it, you usually need to disassemble the washing machine
Sometimes it is sufficient to remove one of the housing covers, but there are cases when it is necessary to get to the bearing located in the drum, or to other hard-to-reach parts. Then the owners of technics face a serious problem, which decision should be approached with all responsibility.
If you want to save money, try to make repairs without going to the service center. In our article we will tell you how to disassemble the Indesit washing machine with your own hands so that you can then easily reassemble it.
Scheme of disassembly of a washing machine
All appliance manufacturers like Ariston, Indesit or other machines have similar structure and disassembly principle. There may be only slight differences in the details, which we will talk about later.
Main diagrams are predetermined mainly by the type of laundry loading.
First, you should de-energize your device, remove the drain hose from it and disconnect the water supply to it.
- Reduced washing quality, increased noise during spinning and poorly wrung laundry indicates that there is a problem with the pump, or if it is just a clogged hose. To fix this type of failure, disassemble the machine from the bottom, or simply remove the front panel.
- If you notice that the water is not heated, then it is most likely a heating element failure. You can locate this part by reading the manual. As a rule, it is necessary to remove the back panel, but in some models of washing machines this part may be at the front.
- If the drain takes longer than normal, the problem is in the pressostat or pump. Based on the structural structure of the washing machine, the part can be located either behind the side panel, or in the upper part.
- If there is a problem with the drum or bearings, you will have to completely disassemble the machine.
Step by step instructions for disassembling the washing machine
It is held in position by several screws (you can handle them with a Phillips screwdriver) at the top of the back panel. When you have unscrewed them, the cover should be pressed on the front side, and then lift it up.
To remove this element, you need to feel for a special button made of plastic, which, as a rule, is located in the center of the tray, and after you have pressed it, pull the element toward you and the dispenser for gels and powders will come out.
This part is attached to a pair of screws. One of them is located under the powder tray, and the other is in the opposing part of the panel. Do not forget that it should be handled with extreme care, and it would be better if you put it on top of the machine or put it on the hook.
It is needed for service and removing small items that accidentally fall into the tank during the wash, so to remove it could not be easier. press the two latches on the sides and the third one in the middle.
First you need to remove the rubber collar, which is located on the loading hatch. It is held in place by a small spring that needs to be tucked in.
Next, you need to tighten the cuff in a circle (use pliers and screwdrivers to help). If the cover gets in the way, you can remove it with just a few screws, but if it doesn’t bother you at all, don’t touch it.
Next, find all the clips that hold the front panel.
In addition to them on the panel still have hooks and in order to remove them, the part should be slightly lifted.
The power connector is removed from the hatch locking devices and the panel is now completely at your disposal.
Here everything is much easier, because to remove this wall you only need to unscrew the fixing bolts all around the perimeter (of which there may be quite a few).
Disconnect the unit from the drain, power and water supply.
- Control panel.Carefully, using a screwdriver, undermine the upper control panel on all sides. Pull it up, then toward the back wall, and then tilt it at an angle that is comfortable for you, so that you can freely work with the wires. Be sure to take a picture of the location of the wires in the disassembly “BEFORE” state. Then everything is twisted and disassembled. On the printed circuit board are all the elements that can be unscrewed to further disconnect the fixing module.
- Side walls. To remove the side panels, twist all the screws, the bottom edge deflects to your side, and pull it down.
- The front wall. Its fasteners can be removed only after you remove the side panels.
How to disassemble washing machines of different brands
How to Disassemble a Samsung Washing Machine
In washing machines manufactured by Samsung, the detergent loading tray is attached to two screws.
The heating element in Samsung machines is located under the front cover of the washer, below the loader.
How to Disassemble an Ariston Washing Machine
The biggest misfortune that can befall an Ariston washing machine is breakage of glands and bearings. The manufacturer has tried by all means to make it impossible to repair these parts, although if you have a golden hands, it is not an obstacle.
The tanks of Ariston washing machines are one-piece, so to replace the seals, you will need to completely flatten the tank, or simply put, saw it.
How to Disassemble an Atlant Washing Machine
It is very convenient to take out the drum in the Atlant machine through the top hatch, remembering to remove the counterweight and dismantle the upper control panel beforehand. The drum in this model is disassembled into two halves, which are bolted together in operating condition. This model in terms of repairing the tank is very practical.
How to disassemble an Electrolux washing machine
The Electrolux has a front panel that can be removed to access all the major components.
“To replace (repair) bearings and oil seals do not need to dismantle the entire tank, as these parts are on removable supports.”
How to Disassemble the LG Washing Machine
To remove the front wall of the washing machine in LG, you will need to unscrew the hatch cover, and then remove the collar. It is held in place by a clamp, which becomes in one place a screw.
This screw can be found if you lift the edge of the clamp with a screwdriver and examine everything, moving in a circle.
For easier removal of the drum, first remove the top weight from the drum.
How to Disassemble an Indesit Washing Machine
The rear panel of the washing machine Indesit is a small size oval wall, which is attached with six bolts. The upper cover is inserted in the grooves, and to remove it you will need to unscrew the two bolts, and then understand the part towards yourself, without lifting it.
The heating element is under the tank, and it is freely accessible through the back of the device.
The weighting weight in the machines of this firm is located at the bottom and top of the tank.
How to Disassemble a Bosch Washing Machine
In the basic configuration to the washing machine Bosch comes and a special wrench, which is located in the bottom panel. Behind it you will also find the drain pump, which will be located a little to the left.
Before taking up the work you should prepare the workplace and stock up on the necessary tools. You should begin with the machine. Removing the drum is a large-scale event, the machine must be moved away from the wall, preferably set in the middle of the room, to gain access to all its parts.
Immediately it is necessary to take care of the lighting. Even if you have a bright room to work in, it is not superfluous to prepare a portable lamp or flashlight.
In order not to be distracted during the work to look for tools all you need to prepare in advance. The list can be adjusted depending on the brand and model of the device, but in any case, you can not do without the following:
- electric screwdriver or universal screwdriver with a set of tools,
- pliers, preferably several with different widths of jaws,
- metal and wooden hammer (mallet),
- set of wrenches or sockets with a screwdriver,
- car bearing puller.
If the task is to disassemble the non-disassembled drum, you will have to prepare something else:
- electric drill and drill bits,
- metal saw,
- hot glue.
As a result of prolonged use in damp rooms the screws are guaranteed to be covered with a thick layer of oxide, to remove them quickly and painlessly need to stock up on WD-40 or its equivalent. A blowtorch or gas torch will help you dismantle the bearings quickly and easily. Of course, you should not work with an open flame in the house. The right thing to do is to go out into the yard or work in a ventilated workshop.
How to remove the fasteners yourself?
When your long-awaited purchase. the washing machine. arrives at your home, don’t rush to hook it up to the plumbing and start the big load of laundry. Take your time:
- Let the appliance stand to come to room temperature, whatever time of year it reaches.
- If the supply of utilities. drainage system, plumbing and electrical. is secured, proceed to “disarm” the machine. If not read our wiring instructions.
- Use a wrench that is the right size for you (or a crescent wrench). And if you have an Ariston, Indesit, Bosch, Elgie or Electrolux machine, the key can come with.
Can’t find a wrench? Use the pliers you have in any house.
- Loosen the screws by 3.5-4 cm, not all the way through, just by loosening them.
- Push each screw forward, pushing it all the way inward (about 2 cm deep).
- Without taking out the bolts, remove the rubbers and plastic inserts, and then remove the fasteners themselves.
- This will leave some rather large holes in the wall. Do not leave them like this: they can let moisture get into the case, and a few extra “holes” can affect the noise level. Find the plastic plugs in the packing materials and install them in the holes by pushing them in until they click into place.
- After removing them, do not throw them away as they may be needed for moving. Pack them in the same bag with the manual and the warranty card: this way you won’t lose any important items.
Troubleshooting the most common problems
The most frequent breakdowns that occur with vertical washing machines of Ariston, Zanussi and other brands are all sorts of leaks, as well as deformation of the bearings.
To fix most of the problems that cause leaks in an upright washing machine, you do not need to disassemble the entire housing. To detect where the water is leaking from, it is necessary:
- Unscrew the drain filter, check how tightly it is installed and in what condition is the seal. Clean the unit when necessary, as it has accumulated a lot of dirt over the years.
- The next thing you should check is the rubber seal of the washing machine cover. Over several years of service, it may have become deformed. As a result, water leaks under the rubber, gets under the machine, accumulates under the control panel, flows into the hatch locking device. Such a problem leads to serious breakdowns, so you should fix the leak as soon as possible. You will not need to change the gasket completely, it is enough to find the deformed place and put a small piece of rubber under it.
For further work, you will need to remove the side panels of the washing machine to gain access to the internal components.
- Check the tightness of the hose connection to the inlet valve. If any water droplets are visible, remove the tube, inspect for intactness, apply silicone and reinstall in its original location with wire ties further tightened. Check and treat the drainage elbow and hose and the tank nozzle in the same manner.
- Next you need to inspect the rubber cuff, check the integrity and make sure that it is securely held by the clamp.
- The tank itself could be leaking. If its halves are tightened with screws, it is necessary to tighten them, small holes can be tried to solder.
Unlike front-loading washing machines, vertical-loading machines do not require removing the tank from the housing for bearing replacement. The following steps are required here:
- Remove the side panels.
- Remove the linings on the sides of the drum, behind which are the calipers with bearings.
- The first thing to do is to replace the bearing and the oil seal on the side where the pulley is missing. The thread is classic right-hand thread.
- Then you must remove the belt, pulley and ground pad, and then replace the oil seal and bearing. In this case the thread will be left-handed.
When installing the new bearing, it is necessary to carefully lubricate the seating.