How to plug the wrong plug into a regular outlet
Many people are familiar with the situation of unsuitable forks. You buy appliances from an online store, and you can’t plug them in. The problem lies in the differently shaped pins of the plug.
This situation can be handled by using an adapter. It is an adapter. A device with a non-standard plug is plugged into an adapter on one side. With the other there is a standard matching plug.
IEC 60906-1 plugs are used in Brazil and South Africa. They look like common Samsung chargers. The distance between the conductive pins is 19 mm.
The main difference of IEC 60906-1 from usual to the citizen of the CIS plugs is the additional grounding prong. It is located in the middle. For receptacles used in Russia, this grounding prong must be removed.
BS 1363 plugs are used in the UK. They are distinguished by conductive pins of rectangular cross-section. These models also have a grounding contact.
Finding an adapter for BS 1363 plugs is easier than for IEC 60906-1. But if you can’t do it, you’ll have to replace the plug with any other suitable.
Note! BS 1363 plugs can be fitted with fuses. If the gauges show that the plug is open, you need to check if the fuse is burned out. This is possible if the circuit breaker does not trip in time.
How an electrical plug is constructed
For a long time, different countries have created their own standards for plugs. The purchase of foreign electrical equipment created a difficulty for its connection to domestic outlets.
Also, newer models of plugs and sockets were developed, which added to the confusion. Nowadays you can buy both old Soviet plugs and new imported plugs in the stores.
Therefore, this article will describe how to replace the electric plug of different standards.
A look at the main parts of the plug will help you understand how to properly change the plug on the wire. Any plug consists of the following parts:
The main purpose of an enclosure is to protect people from electric shock. In addition, contacts and wire are securely fastened in the housing. The housing may be of different shapes and sizes, collapsible or not.
The socket and plug must fit together not only in terms of size, but also in terms of safety. For example, a plug with partially insulated contacts can be used with a polarized outlet.
Plugs with non-insulated contacts, to protect people from accidental contact with live parts, should be used with sockets that have a recess.
Safety regulations require that electrical appliances with a single-pole switch be connected to polarized sockets.
In this case, both the plug and the socket have three contacts each, arranged in a triangular shape; the plug can be inserted into the socket with only one side.
At the same time the wires to the socket are connected in such a way that the phase goes to the switch.
The contacts on the plugs are usually made round, but there are models in which they are flat.
Round pins come in diameters of 4 and 4.8 or even 7.05 mm, although this is very rare in Russia. In the Soviet Union there were pins with slots, this gave them the properties of a spring, and they fit snugly into the sockets of the outlet.
Modern plugs can also have spring contacts, but this is achieved not by cutting, but by convergence of the pins. Such plugs are molded, when casting the pins, they are not set parallel to each other, but with a slight convergence.
The plastic of the plug acts as a spring. These models can be used in sockets where there are no spring contacts.
How to replace and fix a UK moulded plug for your gadget
Only collapsible models can be connected to the electric plug to the wires. The way wires can be connected can vary, but usually it is a threaded connection directly to the contact itself.
Recently, plugs with a grounding contact are used more and more often, it can be in the form of a pin or a socket. In the latter case, the socket has a pin that goes into the socket of the plug.
Additionally, grounding plates are installed on the sides of the housing, which are slightly recessed in the housing.
Instructions for replacing an electrical plug
If you have melted the electric plug or one of the pins broke, the replacement technology is as follows:
- We cut the euro plug, which needs to be changed, and remove the outer casing of the cord (about 5 cm from the end).
- Strip all 3 wires for 15-20 mm. On how to properly remove the insulation, we told in the corresponding article.
This is how you can change the plug on the wire yourself. As you can see, the instruction is quite simple, especially in the photo examples each step of the replacement was described in detail.
How to repair a wire, cable or cord
Most appliances that run on electricity are powered by wires. But their strands and insulation are not eternal so the wires are thrown or torn, or their insulation is frayed. In this article, let’s look at the main faults and ways to repair wires, cables and cords.
In the domestic sense, wires, cables and cords do not have significant design differences. The insulation or the flexibility class of the core may vary, but in both senses there is not much difference.
It is worth noting that when it comes to moving equipment, for example: an iron, an electric drill, an angle grinder, a phone charger. their conductors are called electrical cords. If we are talking about indoor or outdoor wiring. such conductors are called cables (not always, depending on the product used), but when it comes to connections within devices or extensions. Are most often wires.
In principle, all cable products consist of:
Conducting wires, there may be one or more (up to tens of pieces), and by design the wires can be rigid monolithic or flexible multi-wire.
Insulation. Dielectric coating. Can be made in several layers, and if there are more than one core. Usually there is a sheath on each strand and a common sheath that protects all strands. PVC, rubber, impregnated paper, fluoroplastic, polyethylene, silk, polymers are used as insulation.
This catchphrase contains the true essence of an electrician’s work in repair and maintenance. First. is various kinds of short circuits, and the second. Mowing line and wire breaks. When the insulation is damaged, the cores either touch each other and a short circuit occurs, or the bare section of the core protrudes from under the jacket, which can cause a short circuit to ground or electric shock to anyone who touches the section.
Let’s look at the actual situation where a wire has to be repaired. Often fail:
Cords for cell phone chargers;
Irons, washing machines and other household appliances;
Each case is characterized by a different situation. Modern cell phones are charged via a cable with a micro-USB plug. The cable is most often connected to the power adapter with a normal USB connector.
The most common failure of a cell phone cord is fracture at the base of the plug, which is inserted into the phone jack, as this area is more susceptible to bending.
Repair of a cord in this case is to fix the bend. This can be done with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. And also putting a spring from a ballpoint pen on the bend. Or buy a special protection, as you see in the photo below. It’s hard to call it a repair, rather a temporary extension of the cable’s life. Although if you do it beforehand on a good cable it will last longer.
The best solution is to replace the plug, but you will need a soldering iron with a fine tip and a detachable connector. You can see its base in the picture below.
Failure of the cord in headphones is similar. Fracture near the plug happens most often, less often near the headphone itself or near the microphone if it is a headset. Best repair. Is to cut off 5 centimeters of wire with the plug and solder a new plug.
We can distinguish three popular and cheap types 3.5 mm plugs, although you can find dozens of types on ali-express:
Collapsible with threaded connection and plastic housing. The threads in them are bad and the plastic housing starts to come off.
With threaded connection and metal body. They have better threads, it is enough if you only need to accurately unscrew it once and screw it back on.
The collapsible one with the plastic housing on the latch. It looks aesthetically pleasing, but personally I managed to solder 1 normally after 5 attempts. Either the plastic housing did not fit because of thickened solder on the plug, or cracked, or popped off when pulling the jack out of the socket. A good option would be to plant it with thermal glue.
When repairing the headphone cord, there are some nuances:
Be sure to attach the plug housing to the wire before soldering or making any repairs. This advice is ridiculous, but you won’t be amused when you have to redo everything.
The wires of headphones and speakers are most often bare and varnished, usually red and blue wire corresponds to the left and right channels, and copper colored coated with opaque varnish. common. If the cores are coated with insulation, the common wire can be the shielding braid of the wire.
If the cores are tinned as above, you may have trouble tinning them. There are three ways to do this:
How to change the damaged Table Fan plug at home
Carefully stripping the lacquer with a knife or razor blade, but you risk cutting the strands. They consist of wires thinner than a hair.
Take some tin on the soldering iron and dip the end of the wire into a tub of hard rosin. It’s a good way, but it doesn’t always work, and you have to get used to it to control the tinning depth.
Heat the end of the wire with a fire and remove the varnish with a cloth. Then carefully remove the loons and tinned. A good way to do this, but it takes some skill.
The connector also needs to be tinned beforehand. Usually you can not do it simply by tinning a drop of solder and rosin. Active flux helps (it worsens reliability of connection, but not considerably in this case) or preliminary sanding with sandpaper or file the place, which you are going to tin. Flux pastes also work. I, for example, tinned with green type F-2000.
Soldering and tinning are dangerous for the connector, even though it is designed for this type of connection. The point is that the plug contacts run one inside the other like a tube or telescope and are insulated from each other with a material like plastic. It starts to melt when heated up for a long time, after which parts of the plug start to dangle and rotate. Normal operation is out of the question. Solder correctly, in this case the active flux will speed up the work, though it is dangerous for the contacts over time. The question is whether headphones with such thin wires will live long enough for the contact to be destroyed by the active ingredients of the flux.
Expensive plugs solder well, but it makes sense to install them only on expensive headphones, and in these and the wires are tinned simply.
Repair of the wire washing machine, microwave and other appliances in the appliances most often fail wire those appliances that regularly removed the plug from the socket.
If a refrigerator, TV or computer most often remain plugged in for years, the wire of washing machines, microwave ovens, food processor is often plugged in for the time of use. They break at most near the plug, since this area is the most mobile.
The best solution would be to replace the plug, since the one that is installed from the factory is usually undismantled, cast need to bite off the plug and fractured section of the wire. about 10 centimeters. The plug should be chosen according to the power consumption and design convenience.
On appliances where you fold the cord to put it back on the shelf, such as a blender or food processor, it can break at the base, where it enters the housing, and anywhere else.
The damage can be found by gradual bending and moving along the entire length of the wire. In this case you should cut 10-20 cm of the damaged place, connect and insulate the wires. If the length is greatly reduced after repair. Insert a piece of wire with a similar cross section.
Make the connection by soldering or crimping. Twisting in flexible movable cords is better to not use. As a last resort, it is possible to use screw terminals, having previously tinned the ends of the wires.
Insulate with either electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. The latter option is preferred, and the tape can unravel over time.
Useful materials from the “Appliance Repair” section:
Drill and angle grinder cord repair
The most stressed place in these tools is where the wire enters the housing. Usually the wire here is reinforced by a special casing that prevents damage, but it does not save.
If you plugged in the drill, pressed the button, and it shows no signs of life, but when you move the wire near the handle it starts to work. This is almost certainly the problem.
It is necessary to disassemble the drill and test the wire, putting one probe on the lead of the plug and the other on one of the wires, do the same with the second wire. Regardless of whether the wire beeper or not, bend the wire in all suspicious places, if there is damage. you will hear it.
Drill wire repair is similar to the previous one. Cut off the damaged part or replace the entire wire.
On a native wire in the place of entry in the body of the device there is a protective cover, if you can not remove it from the cut off piece for reuse, you can use for this purpose a heat shrink laid in several layers (to get the desired tightness of entering the body), or use a sleeve, a piece of hose, jackets with other nodes and mechanisms of similar size, at the worst. duct tape.
If the drill is designed to connect the power lead to the internal circuitry with a screw clamp. Don’t forget to tin or crimp the strands. Multi-wire cords should not be clamped with screw terminals because you will not get a good contact.
Repair of cords of hair dryers, ploys and other hand-held electrical appliances is performed similarly. The exception is irons, for them there are special cords in a fabric braid to protect them from the hot soleplate and from rubbing against the edge of the ironing board. Usually such cords are sold and replaced as a whole.
Carrying a cord or extension cord. handy device, which is actively used in everyday life, at work and on construction sites it is laid from the nearest socket or electrolyte to the place where you need to connect an electrical device.
So it is often stepped on, put something and so on. This leads to the fact that either the insulation is damaged or the wires are broken, or they shorted inside the cable, and then burns out the plug, socket or knock out the circuit breaker.
In this case similarly to the previous ones you should cut a piece of wire and replace it with serviceable one. Or you can connect the remaining.
Do not make more than three to five connections and do not make a daisy chain out of many pieces. This is dangerous and increases the risk that the insulation on one of the connections will eventually wear out and someone will get an electric shock.
Always insulate all connections with heat shrink tubing and electrical tape. This is very important because the cable is moving and the insulation can wear off.
Repair of cable in wiring
No matter how the line is routed. it can be repaired internally or externally. If a breakage occurs. Replace the damaged section or the entire line. If there is damage to the insulation. You can repair it with heat shrink, kimballs, insulation and other insulating materials.
In the Instructions for the operation of power cable lines Part 1 (mowing line voltage up to 35 kV), it says that you can restore the cover of cables with heat-resistant varnishes, PVC-tubing, patch plastic, fiberglass tape and other. Means that all of the above repair methods are fair and allowed according to the Instructions.
For repair of cables and wires in modern conditions, PVC-tube or heat-resistant fiberglass sleeves are best suited. The latter are suitable for repairing the insulation of wires that run near heating elements, such as in an iron or a boiler.
It cannot be said that the insulation is not at all suitable for the repair of the wire. It just can unravel over time, and fabric tape can pick up moisture, and it is not suitable for use in wet conditions.
The design of electrical plugs is divided into several types. With the technical characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of each you need to familiarize yourself in more detail.
The design of a non-disassembled plug
Design features of non-disassembled modifications are the same everywhere. The pins are set at 19 mm intervals into a strip made of plastic with wires pressed into it. The bar is equipped with two protrusions, the task of which is to bypass the wire. Bypass is important in that it eliminates the possibility of the plug cord breaking if considerable force has been applied to it.
The wire and pins are filled with molten plastic. This ensures a high degree of tightness of the housing with a power cord securely fastened in it.
The construction of a collapsible three-pole design
Not so long ago, only collapsible structures were used to connect electrical appliances. Today they are still used by a large number of Russians. Without such a detail can not do, if you need to replace the cast mechanism that failed. The advantage of this fork is that it is repairable and reusable. It can be effortlessly removed and installed on another cord.
Design of a C1-B structure
This construction is incredibly simple in its construction. It consists of two plastic housing halves, two brass pins, fasteners and a clamping plate.
Design features of the C6 collapsible construction
The construction is also not very complicated. There are versions with and without grounding contact. Designed for operation of devices with power no more than 220 W. The pins are made of brass and have threaded pads for attaching the wire. The pins are attached to the base of the plug. In the case can be additionally installed grounding contact, which has the form of a strip of brass. There is also a bar for securely fastening the wire with a plastic gasket.
Connecting the plug to the wire
To replace the usual electric plug without grounding, you need to act differently:
- It is necessary to cut the broken model and disassemble the body of the working product.
- Loosen the cord from the sheath and carefully strip the ends of wires, 20 mm is enough.
- The design of an ordinary product has a number of differences, so you need to bend the stripped ends into rings.
- Connect the conductors with pins, the polarity does not matter, if the cord has three wires. then the yellow-green one should be cut off.
- Clamp the plate and fully reassemble the housing.
The most important thing when replacing correctly connect the wires. It is enough just to know their marking by color to avoid confusion.
Repair of the fan with your own hands
Abnormally hot summer forces Russians to use fans. But what to do when this household appliance does not perform its functions well, how to identify and fix the failure.
Trouble. the fan does not rotate properly.
The most likely cause. lack of lubrication in the motor. To solve this problem, you need to get to the electric motor and lubricate it with machine oil. First remove the protective grid. Then remove the blades (unscrew nut clockwise). To remove the other half of the grid, you must unscrew another nut. Next, the screws fixing the plastic motor housing are unscrewed and the housing itself is disassembled. Now the motor is accessible, a few drops of oil should be applied to the motor shaft (the shaft rotates on plastic bushings). A screwdriver will do the job of applying the oil, the main thing is to get it into the hub by rotating the shaft clockwise and back, and back and forth on the axis. As a result, the shaft should rotate easily. Reassemble in the reverse order.
Failure. the plugged in fan does not work.
- No voltage in the socket. This can be checked by plugging in any other functioning electrical appliance into the same outlet.
- The power cord or plug is defective. To check this open the box on the ventilator, where the power cord comes in, and measure the voltage at the point of connection to the board. No voltage means the need to replace the cord or plug.
- The chip board is faulty. Also checked by measuring the voltage, but not at the input, but at the output of the board. between the wires going to the motor. If there is no voltage, then the chip or board must be replaced.
- The electric motor is defective. If there is voltage at the board output, you should disassemble the motor housing and measure the voltage there. If it is there, you need to call a workshop. You can try to replace the brushes yourself.
Failure. no turning to the sides.
Cause. worm gearbox needs lubrication or gears are worn. Motor housing is disassembled. The gear box is located next to the motor opposite to the blades. Reducer switch should move up and down easily, otherwise it should be lubricated. Worn or damaged plastic gears can not always be replaced, but permanent fan operation is always available.
REPAIR OF THE PLUG OF THE FAN HEATER
On another autumn day, when it’s already pretty cold outside and the autumn leaves are lying on the sidewalk, I was lying on the couch by the TV, and the fan heater blew me a warm breeze and it was so good. Until I felt the smell of burnt insulation, another moment and I looked back at the device and terrified I ran as fast as I could! I had to immediately de-energize the device by the method of “pull the plug and blow smoke from the plug of the device”!
That’s such a wonderful evening stops in a moment of sheer laziness and a little slovenliness. In general the fan heater has had one major problem since the factory, as they say my friends geeks from the box. The problem was that the cord was as short as a pig’s tail, and yes, it was constantly curled into a coil, so it reminded me of the tail.
The length of the power cord was about half a meter, which is not quite convenient for an average modern man’s rest room in which power outlets are located a little too high. And so I powered the device through the extension cord, and since the sockets were not Euro-style, I used a adapter, the contacts in which weakened, the contact worsened, resistance increased and, judging from the equation of Ohm’s law. If the resistance is growing harder to move the current in the circuit, it begins to warm and nervous, which caused the destruction of insulation adapter and plug, the plastic is still moving away, the contact is still loose and there he went waking up disturbing my peace.
Here the laziness ended and I had to do as I wanted and as convenient and safe as possible. We run to the electrical goods store and buy a power cord of suitable length. in my case it would be about two meters, 2 wires of 0.75 squares of soft copper made in our country.
The plug we take a more expensive but not particularly powerful, so it can fit into a regular socket without problems and provide a good contact.
Dismantle the fan, a miracle of Chinese production and thought power assembled very reliable and electrically all on the terminals, there is a thermal switch, thermostat, reliable switch.
Dismantle the old cable tail and put the new one in its place, using crimp and terminal on the switch to protect against tipping mount a normal plug, and neon bulb glue the normal polymer glue, not a piece of hot melt so he was hanging when working in the on indicator and sometimes, frankly speaking, annoying.
Screwed a decent amount of screws on the body, and now, after a forced revision and repair, it became safe and reliable to use the device. Author. redmoon.
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Repairing a Floor Fan with Your Hands. All the reasons why it does not spin and how to disassemble.
In the hottest summer days, the only salvation from the weary heat is an ordinary floor fan.
Not everyone can afford a full-fledged split system or at least a mobile air conditioner.
But unfortunately, even this inexpensive and accessible windblower occasionally breaks down. Especially the Chinese models are flying like sunflower seeds.
And they are in our market in the vast majority. What to do if the fan stopped spinning and working? What are its main shortcomings and why it breaks??
In total it is possible to distinguish 5 main causes of floor fans failure:
The main problem of cheap models, to which few people pay attention for some reason. Incorrect casting of blades. It causes imbalance, breaks bearings, increases clearances.
You can not influence it, because you have already bought the fan with this initial defect. Sometimes it seems to work, the impeller rotates normally, but it does not blow.
That is, there is no cooling air flow from it. Why does it happen??
Because of the wrong angle of attack of the blades. Its blades are deformed and are chasing the airflow in a circle instead of throwing it outward.
This effect can appear over time, after the fan has been standing for a long time in direct sunlight and its impeller heated up, began to gradually change its shape.
This can only be cured by replacing the impeller with a new one.
The most common problem is a grease drying up or lack of it. The fan starts to jam, loses speed and as a consequence, the load on the engine increases. The wind turbine is no longer working at full power.
The motor winded with a thin wire of 0.2 mm begins to heat up and gradually burn out the windings.
How this defect is identified? In this case, the fan stops rotating. It’s humming, but the impeller won’t turn.
And sometimes it starts only at the 3rd speed, and does not react to the first two. It simply does not have enough power to turn the shaft.
In order to start it, like on old planes, you have to brazenly unscrew the blades.
By the way, the same symptom can be caused by a damaged starting capacitor. How to find out without instruments which reason is responsible for a breakage?
To do this, you must at least get to the motor shaft by removing the protective shroud and blades. If the shaft rotates by hand with great difficulty, then blame dirt and dried grease.
If it rotates easily and has inertia, it’s probably a busted capacitor. The symptom is. You plug in the fan and it does not spin. You crank the motor at full speed and it starts.
If you hold the fan blades by hand during operation, it may stop again. Check the capacitor with a multimeter, if it has the appropriate capacitance scale.
To replace a worn or damaged unit select a new unit with the same parameters as shown on the housing of the old one.
By the way, not completely dried out condenser, also affects the speed. If you notice that you have them dropped and the fan began to spin slower, it is a bell to check it.
The problem of a slow fan rotation can be corrected by re-lubricating the bearings. The so-called slide bearings are used here. Some people call them bushings.
It is expensive to use balls in such constructions, and they rattle a lot with time. It is not necessary to disassemble the entire motor for repair. It is enough to unscrew a few screws and spray in the right places with WD40 universal spray.
Replacement Plug of Ceiling Fan Wiring
How to get to the bushings without removing the engine? First, unscrew the center screw on the back of the protective housing.
Another self-tapping screw is hidden in the adjusting button lever for turning or stopping the fan head.
After that the back cover can be easily removed from its place. What’s Under It? Here you can see the swivel gear, which gives the whole head rotation.
There is a special rod coming to it from underneath.
The starting capacitor of the engine is fixed at the top.
By the way, keep in mind that it might not be there on different models. In this case, look for it near the gearshift buttons.
To access the motor bearing, you’ll need to remove the gearbox. It is mounted on three screws and is supported from below by a traction.
Remove the screws and disconnect the rod. The gearbox is then removed from the shaft and you have access to the rear bushing.
There is no need to unscrew or disassemble anything else. Wax will do the rest.
Put a thin tube of WD40 on the spray bottle and spray a few times in the gap between the shaft and the bearing.
After spraying the shaft with WD40, turn it sideways with your hand and move it back and forth a bit.
Excess thickened grease, debris and dust will gradually come out. That excess dirt can easily be removed with a cotton swab.
If you have a thick grease like Cyatim or Lithol, it is advisable to apply it to the gear worm. After these cleaning procedures, drop a few drops of sewing machine oil on the outside of the bearing.
Just don’t apply it too much. Otherwise it subsequently spreads in all places and the dust adheres to it, turning it back into dirt. You end up with the wedge and the rotation problem again.
Some models have felt washers near the bushings. They’re soaked in oil and as they heat up, the oil runs off onto the shaft, lubricating it.
Reassemble in reverse order. Traction. the three screws on the gearbox. outside cover.
By the way if you over tighten the central screw on the back cover and it is a screw it can go through the plastic of the swivel gear and bind on the shaft.
With the rear bearing done, go to the front of the fan. Here in the center is a protective cap.
It unscrews. clockwise, because the threads here are left-handed.
Take it off and remove the propeller from the shaft. You now have access to the front plain bearing.
The principle is the same. First you squeeze out and soften the old grease and dirt with vedishka and then apply the new one.
Then put the propeller back on and close the lid. After you finish the repair turn on the fan at high speed, and after running it a few minutes switch to the desired speed.
If the damage is more complicated and simple lubrication does not help, you will have to take apart the fan in detail.
First do all the disassembly machinations as described above. After you have removed the propeller unscrew plastic front locknut which is right behind it and take off the whole protective frame.
You have the motor itself and the leg with the power wires and push button mechanism.
Disassemble this leg by removing the 6 tapping screws.
First of all check the soldered wires. It is quite possible that one or more of them fell off or burnt out.
If everything is intact, how to check which wire is going where and what it is for? Start the test with the two wires from the power plug.
One of them, let it be black (as it is on the photo below), goes directly to the motor of the fan through a light bulb.
The second wire goes to the lower terminal of the dial switch (button 0).
Next, by pressing the appropriate buttons. 1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, some contacts of the switch are closed, and thus the speed of the motor changes.
Each wire from these buttons goes to a different terminal on the winding, with more or fewer turns. By putting voltage on them, you make the propeller spin faster or slower.
A simplified diagram of the blower is as follows.
Typical diagrams of most inexpensive 3 speed floor fans are about this:
The pushing of each button is followed by the closing of its contact group.
At this point, the other contact group opens.
Sometimes these contacts get burned or don’t reach their plate. Then one of the speeds is missing.
Check it all elementary with a Chinese multimeter, in the circuit checker mode.
If the very first wire breaks or there is no contact on it, the fan motor simply will not start. So if the fan is completely out of order, check it first of all.
If you have made sure that the plug and the power cord from the plug are in good condition. This can also be detected with a tester.
Put one end of the probe on the plug pin and touch the other end to the contact pad on the “0” button. If it’s working, it should have zero resistance.
Then you can check the wires on all speeds in the same way. Touch the dipstick on the plug. the other probe to the outgoing wire from the corresponding speed button to the motor.
If there are zeros everywhere, then you have a working switch and wires.
Then you check the second contact on the plug and the wire that goes directly past the switch to the motor. Make sure you have an intact cord here as well.
Only then can you test the windings of the motor itself.
Use a multimeter to set the resistance to 2,000 ohms. Next, so as not to bite out anywhere wires, in a place of connection of the condenser, you brush a little insulation.
Look for common ground as shown in the diagram below.
Finding it, you call the winding resistance. To do this, touch the second probe alternately to the contacts on the switch.
Approximate resistance values of the fan windings may be as follows:
Of course they may vary a little from model to model but the most important thing is that there is no interruption or short circuit. Measurements can show as a few hundred ohms, as well as a little more than 1 kOhm.
It depends on the fan power and wire cross section.
The resistance between the leads of the windings will be less. 100-200 ohms.
You also check the capacitor winding and the total resistance of all windings together.
Here is the most competent and complete video to check the health of the fan windings with multimeter.
If checking the integrity of the windings does not show deviations and defects, go ahead. To do this, completely disassemble the fan, as they say to the bones.
First you need to free the motor from all plastic parts. Unscrew the 4 screws from the front side and remove the cover.
On new models besides screws there are also latches. They need to bend with a screwdriver.
To disconnect the leg, you need to find another screw, which is usually hidden under the plug.
Loosen it and pull out the fixing shaft. To remove the wires that go through the leg, you will need to bite them out or solder them out from the terminals on the speed buttons.
At the same time write down or sketch which one is initially connected.
As a result, you should have in your hands a bare fan motor without anything else.
Disassemble it. Unscrew the screws tightening the back cover.
At the same time before disassembly, be sure to put marks on all the lids and iron, as everything was assembled originally.
Otherwise you will be out of alignment if it is not properly assembled. You will have problems with the shaft jamming and the rotation of the blades.
Once you have removed the bearing, you get to the windings themselves. Among the bundle of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermostat.
Very often the motor stops working after it burns out. This relay should trip and open the circuit, at a winding temperature of 135-145 degrees.
After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. So, sometimes it burns out completely and actually plays the role of a fuse.
If your fan began to turn off often and restart independently, this protection is to blame. Know that it doesn’t just work. This means that either you have a jammed shaft, or the end of the windings comes and they overheat.
Overheating of the windings may be due to the destruction of a small impeller that sits on the shaft inside the motor itself. It is designed to blow and reduce the temperature of the turns.
The cheapest models do not have a temperature sensor-relay, everything is connected directly. So if your “thermal fuse” is blown, of course you can bypass it and make the wind blower work. But this will leave you with no fire protection.
Between its legs there should be a chain in the mode of the wire.
If all parts and relays are intact inside, you just have to look carefully through a magnifying glass at the winding, shaft and rotor. You may see torn or nicked copper wires.
It happens when the bearing pops out of its seat and the rotor starts kicking the windings.
In modern Chinese floor fans, quite often the screw joint between the two halves of the motor loosens. Do not forget that the shaft is dressed on both sides by self-centering copper-graphite sleeves, which are tightly locked in the caps.
When assembling and tightening them, you can lightly tap the transformer iron itself with a hammer so that the shaft rotates easily, with little inertia. Someone tries to catch the center by himself and makes this silent horror.
Eventually the shaft falls out of the bearing, resulting in a wedge. As a consequence, the rotor starts to scratch the windings and its surface.
Also keep in mind that if your fan fell and then stopped working and rotating, the bushings are likely to be misaligned. Nothing else can be damaged by such a fall.
The capacitor will not be damaged, the windings filled with varnish will not break. Unless some of the buttons are loose. But first of all check the alignment of the bearings. And then everything will work properly.
Unfortunately, a mechanical defect in the windings or rotor, or a short circuit in the winding, is not something you can deal with on your own. It is not rational to rewind the motors of cheap wind turbines, it is much easier to buy a new model.
But this is the last stage of the check, and hopefully you will not get to it, finding the damage somewhere else, by the methods described above.