How to tuck the thread into the overlock

How to correctly thread an overlock machine

If the threading of the sewing machine does not affect the formation of overcasting stitch and the appearance of defective stitches like skips, then the opposite can be said about overlock threading. The thing is, if you miss even one thread attachment in the buttonhole, you’ll get skips or an overcasting stitch when you’re sewing. Thus, it is important to pay special attention to the overlock threading.

The overlock threading diagram has a general structure that looks like this:

  • Put the spool of thread to work on the spool holder.
  • Thread the tip of the thread through the hooks or holes that set the direction of the thread. For the stitch to be good, it is important that the axis of the spool holder is pointing directly at the thread guide.
  • Pass the thread through all the tension mechanisms: the first overlock mechanism pulls the thread away, and the next mechanism pulls it in. That’s why it’s important to follow this sequence clearly. In some models, these mechanisms are combined, which means that when threading the thread into the overlock, instead of two actions, only one is done.
  • Thread through the eye of the needle. It should be threaded into the buttonhole so that its direction coincided with the direction of motion of the fabric during work.
  • Pull the thread under the presser foot. the final threading step.

To check if the thread is correctly threaded, you can use an unnecessary piece of fabric for a trial stitch. If the thread tears while working, it means that somewhere has been made a mistake. You can not work with a wrong thread, otherwise the mechanism will make the wrong loop, and the treatment of tissue will not turn out nice.

Preparing for work

Before you start work, you should prepare some tools to facilitate the procedure of overlock threading, adjustment, rapid fixing of problems that arise.

Threading Juki sergers. lower looper

  • several colored spools. Different colored threads will show you which buttonhole is not threaded correctly, help you adjust the tension;
  • a set of overlock blades. They are used to cut the protruding ends of threads, undercut the edges of loose fabrics;
  • set of needles. With a spare kit, repositioning a broken or bent needle doesn’t take long and helps you get back to sewing quickly. Needle change is also required in the presence of visible seam imperfections: increased frequency of skipping, shrinkage. This can be due to improperly inserted or blunted needle;
  • lubricating oil. It’s best to choose a quality oil from a manufacturer that is listed in the instruction manual for the equipment. It is rarely needed. lubricate the machine once every six months. So don’t skimp on it. For lubrication use a standard disposable medical syringe. it will be able to “reach” the most inaccessible places mechanisms;
  • tweezers with narrow tips. It helps to pass the tip of the thread through the eye of the left buttonhole. It is difficult to do this with your bare hands;
  • A small piece of cloth for checking. It helps to check overlock threading accuracy, adjust tension.

How to tuck the needle thread of a three-strand overlock machine

Threading the needle thread is much easier than the buttonhole thread, but you still need to make sure that the thread runs between the thread tension plates. Sometimes it gets behind the plate and outwardly it is not noticeable, but it throws off the tension of the other threads in the stitch. You begin to tighten the other tensioners, completely knocking down the tension of all the threads. Sometimes the thread just slips out of the tensioner by itself, and you won’t notice it right away. And if the overlock has not been cleaned for a long time, between the plates of the tensioner frizz accumulates thread, which prevents the thread tightening. Pull the plates apart with a screwdriver and make sure they are not obstructed.

To “extinguish” torsion, try to wind the thread in the thread guide attachment, as shown in this photo. Thread wrapped in this way will not be twisted, which is important for a stable thread tension, and hence the quality of the stitch.

The threading process

Note that the work is done with the power off and the presser foot raised!

tuck, thread, overlock

The first step for all models is to install the spools of thread on the stand with spool holders. Be sure to pass the ends of the threads through the thread guides. Then you need to open the lid, according to the instructions for the model.

Threading a three-strand overlock

The following guide will help you understand how to thread an overlock that uses 3 threads for seams. After installing the threads and opening the lid, the procedure is as follows:

  • To tuck the left buttonhole thread through all of the manufacturer’s guides on the body, and then insert it between the left buttonhole tension discs.
  • The thread is then led through the remaining guides (according to the diagram). Turn the handwheel to the right and thread the buttonhole with tweezers.
  • After all stages, the thread is threaded into the left eye of the buttonhole.
  • Thread for the second buttonhole is also led through its guides and tension wheels, and then into the upper (right) buttonhole.
  • The next step is to thread the upper thread following the instructions on the body. After the tension discs, the needle thread must pass through the needle thread guide, for which purpose turn the handwheel to raise the needle bar to the upper position. The thread is threaded outward (from front to back) into the eye of the needle and then led under the presser foot.

how to thread an overlock industrial machine step by step full video

Threading a four-strand overlock

Threading a four-strand overlock is almost identical to a three-strand overlock. First the lower buttonholes are threaded and then the needles are threaded. It is important not to mix up the left and right needle tension dials, and to pass the threads through all the necessary thread guides.

Modern models can be equipped with simplified threading systems, such as the F.A.S.T. (Brother 4234D, Brother 755D, etc.).). To simplify the work is a separate lever that moves the buttonhole to a convenient position for threading, and convenient needle threader. The top range models from Babylock and Janome use pneumatic threading of the buttonholes with an air flow, which requires only one button press.

How to tuck a 51-grade overlock machine

Despite the large number of modern sewing machines, many people use Chinese “green” three-strand overlocks. They were popular in the 90’s, and today are common, thanks to their fairly high quality. These Chinese machines. copies of domestic overlock class 51, produced in Podolsk, respectively, and the threading scheme they have the same.

How to tuck this kind of overlock 51 class, so that the quality of overcasting is perfect? This process is as follows.

  • Feed the thread through the thread guide holes on the machine.
  • Next, through the thread tensioner plate.
  • Guide the thread pulled down under the needle and pull it through the foot.
  • Leave about 5 cm of fabric for a test stitch.

The threading process for a Class 51 overlock machine is virtually the same as for modern four-strand models.

Overlock needles

For the overlock to sew well in different fabrics, in addition to the right settings and good threads, you need to select needles that match the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.

Knitwear requires needles with a rounded tip. These are labeled as stretch, super stretch, jersey or microtex. These needles pull the loops of the knit fabric apart, not cut through them. Also remember to match the needles to the thickness of the knitted fabric.

Decorative stitches

Modern models of overlocks provide more opportunities for sewing exclusive things, as they can please with decorative types of stitching.


Flatlock stitch is a true flatlock stitch, which can only be sewn with a flatlock sewing machine or a quilting machine. On an overlock stitch, there is only an imitation of a rolling stitch, which is created with a certain adjustment.

To create such a stitch, the tension of the needle threads is reduced and the tension of the lower buttonholes is maximized. Flatlock stitch can be used for stitching fabric elements. On the reverse, when two layers of material are joined, a stitch resembling a flatlock stitch is created. In wear it is not very strong, in places of heavy load quickly falls apart, so it is rarely used in sewing. suitable for decorating embossed elements of clothing.

Rolled (hemming)

It is also called a roller stitch or opikova, you can get it by manipulating the overlock tensioners. Edge treatment looks like a rolled inside stitch.

With the help of such bending on the product, you can increase the waves on the ruffles, inserting a fishing line for a trimmer, make the edge of the skirt more elastic. This maneuver is used to overcast the edge of the skirt to increase the puffiness of the hem. It can be used not only to process the edges of the fabric, but at the same time sew together the ruffles of the outfit. This stitch is often used in dancewear. Role stitch also looks beautiful on decorated parts of tulle and in knitwear.

Overlocked machine threading

Knowing how to correctly thread an overlock machine is essential. Proper threading is a basic requirement for proper overlock machine operation. Tweezers are used to baste the overlock.

It is impossible to give a general, universal overlock threading scheme for different models. Each of them has its own small features. But the principle of overlock threading is the same, so here’s a diagram for threading a Class 51 industrial overlock, a fairly popular overlock used in homes and small ateliers.

Threading the 51st grade overlock.First thread the right (top R) buttonhole (Fig. H) in two holes 1, between washers 6 tensioner in the thread feeder 8, under the bracket of a wire yarn guide 9 and the buttonhole eyes from himself. From the rack, from the bobbin for the lower loop L (left), the thread is threaded (Fig. L) in hole 1. Then, into the eye of the yarn puller 3 and into the hole of the yarn guide 8 attached to the machine cover. Carried through the hole 9 and 10 in the side cover, then through the tensioner 12, thread guide 13, under the thread puller 14 and the eyes of the left buttonhole (from myself).Needle thread is removed from the rack from the bobbin and passed through the holes 1 in the thread guide plate 2, between the washers 3 tension regulator. Then, in the holes 4 on the left side of the plate 2 in front of the shaped thread puller 5, in the eye 6 thread feeder, mounted on the leash of the needle mechanism, between the washers 7 tension and the ear of the needle 8 away from himself.

Industrial overlock setting is primarily to adjust the thread tension. Check that the overlock is correctly threaded, the needle is in good condition. It may be dull or bent. Try changing your threads to thin, stretchy threads wound on large cone bobbins. You may not need to make any other settings on the overlock.

tuck, thread, overlock

How to properly lubricate an overlock looperSometimes, you need to remove the covers of the looper and lubricate all the rubbing parts inside the body. What to look for and how to do it with my own hands.

What to buy a overlock Modern 3-, 4-strand overlock, even the most inexpensive models, quite qualitatively overcast tissue. Many of them have many additional features, allowing to perform 2-thread overlock stitch, simulation flat seam, switching off one needle, etc.д. No overlock repair is needed for these models if the operating instructions are followed.

Sewing threads, what is better?? Overlock filling should be done exactly according to the scheme included in the manual. Sometimes, an overlock filling pattern can be printed on a sticker on one of the covers of the overlock. If you can’t read the manual all the time, draw a small diagram yourself and attach it to one of the walls. It is very important when threading the overlock, that the thread is threaded into all of the designed thread holders.

Overlock VOMZ 151-4D for this overlock model has a scheme for installing loops and parameters for setting their gaps in the interaction with the needles. You can use it as a rough guide for loop positions and gap sizes. However, it is not possible to use this scheme to fine-tune other overlock models.

Peculiarities of work with knitwear

Sewing machine hardly sews knitwear, as it is thin, strongly pulled, at the point of shearing crumbles. For this type of fabric is more suitable overlock machine. Knitwear is very comfortable to wear, but requires certain conditions when sewing. So how to sew knitwear correctly? Such a fabric requires maximum elasticity of the seam, which will stretch and at the same time retain the same shape. On a knitted garment is always very noticeable errors in the stitching, moreover, when washing it can separate. An overlock with a differential feed option is best suited for sewing such garments.


The fabric is fed on a special conveyor that allows stretching or pulling the fabric where required.

tuck, thread, overlock

For quality processing of necks, armholes and the bottoms of garments need appropriate settings overlock.

  • You need fine threads for knitwear, in a pinch, you can replace the polyester.
  • You will need special needles “stretch”.
  • You can sew on a rubber band or make a neckline by installing an additional foot for knitwear.
  • Overlay film on the fabric, which will then dissolve in warm water.
tuck, thread, overlock

After replacing all the necessary elements, it is necessary to adjust the overlock to work with knitwear. To do this, adjust the needle and buttonhole tensioners, as well as the presser foot. Given that the overlock design of different manufacturers, in the performance of the stitches can be its own nuances. This is influenced by the length of the foot and the distance of the knife from it. If the distance is short, it is easier to maneuver. With a longer blade it is more difficult to make small radius curves.

For a product to be flawless, and a desire for new design inventions, it is important to work out the performance of beautiful and durable stitches on a trial fabric.

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