Refrigerator does not turn off and runs constantly
If your refrigerator does not turn off (runs all the time), it may be an indication of a simple error in operation, or a serious breakdown. In this article we will consider all the possible causes of such behavior of technology and tell you when you can fix it yourself, and when you need to call the wizard.
If you notice that your refrigerator constantly runs and does not turn off for a long time, you should pay attention to the three main reasons why this can happen:
- Incorrect installation. There should always be a 10-15 cm clearance behind the back of the unit for good ventilation. Otherwise the compressor will start to heat up and will not shut down normally. Similar conditions can occur if the refrigerator is installed in a room with a high temperature, near heating radiators, by a window from which the sun shines on its back wall, near heating appliances, etc.п.
- If the old refrigerator doesn’t turn off and constantly freezes, most likely its thermostat has failed because of wear. This breakdown is quite natural and can be easily fixed by replacing this element.
- Your refrigerator can maintain a low temperature for a long time if the thermostat is turned to its maximum setting. In some models, the super-freezing function “behaves” in a similar way. it allows you to switch the device into continuous cooling mode.
In normal operation, the compressor should turn off about once every 10 to 20 minutes. If you notice that its operating mode differs significantly from this standard, check the above-mentioned reasons. In most cases, this is enough to solve the problem.
No Frost fridge does not turn off. when you can fix it yourself
Here are the most common causes of long compressor runtime, which you can fix yourself.
- The refrigerator is new or you have recently turned it on. Your refrigerator needs to reach temperature before it reaches the standard compressor operating mode. That is why the No Frost refrigerator motor works constantly and does not turn off. Refrigerator can take up to 24 hours to reach temperature. Time depends on the amount of products loaded, the temperature in the room and some other factors.
- SuperFrost or SuperCool mode enabled. These modes are designed to freeze food quickly in the freezer compartment or to cool large quantities of food quickly in the fridge compartment. Modes are usually turned off automatically after 24-48 hours, or you can turn them off manually. See your refrigerator manual for information on how to turn it off.
- Setting the cooling mode to maximum in a hot room. Setting the cooling to maximum in hot weather is a common mistake of users who feel that their refrigerator is too warm. It leads to intensive work of the compressor with rare shutdowns and, even, to its failure. Set default temperature to 4°C, 5°C for fridge compartment and 19°C for freezer compartment.18.19°C. in freezer room. Or move your refrigerator to a cooler location.
- Incorrect setting. It is necessary to place the refrigerator away from heat sources (stoves, radiators, etc.).д.), the minimum distance is 3 cm. It should not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun. You should also not push the refrigerator up against the wall. You need good ventilation in the back of the refrigerator so that the condenser (the grill at the back of the refrigerator) gives off heat efficiently. If you haven’t followed these rules, your No Frost refrigerator may run for a long time without shutting down.
- Putting a lot of food in. Large volume of warm food increases the temperature in the chambers and “forces” the refrigerator to work more intensively.
- Opening the door frequently. This leads to warm air entering the chambers and infrequent compressor shutdowns.
Unfortunately, there are situations when the initial cooling time is up, but the compressor is not going to rest. Or “super-freezing” is off, the doors in the chambers are tightly closed, but the motor still runs non-stop. This means that there is a malfunction that needs to be repaired. In this case, in addition to the continuous noise of the compressor, you may find that the compartments are warmer than normal.
The main reasons of breakage are connected with freon leakage through micro-holes in the pipe in any part of the cooling circuit. Also the refrigerant can escape because of mechanical damage when defrosting the freezer. If there is a leak, first the compressor does not shut off and then it stops working altogether.
Freon leakage due to natural causes. from 2000
The refrigerant travels along a long pathway consisting of different sections with tubes of unequal diameters made of dissimilar metals. That’s why there are a lot of weak points in the piping system. The main areas of natural leakage:
- Crimp or locking connections. They are used to join pipes of dissimilar metals: copper, steel, aluminum. From vibration or improper crimping, the locking begins to leak freon and it escapes from the system. The leaky connection has to be rewired.
- “Crying evaporator in refrigerators with refrigerator compartment drip defrosting. The refrigerator compartment evaporator is usually built into the back wall and foamed. Due to factory defects or due to corrosion of the evaporator there is a leak. It is difficult and expensive to repair the native evaporator, it is necessary to cut the thermal insulation of the freezer and then restore it. For such repair it is necessary to take the refrigerator to the stationary service, and anyway there is no guarantee that the defect will not appear again. That is why the duck evaporator is cut off and replaced with an external one, right inside the fridge compartment.
- The heating circuit of the freezer. A steel tube runs around the perimeter of the freezer compartment. It contains freon, which has taken the heat in the evaporator. Warm refrigerant warms the circuit so that no condensation forms around the perimeter of the freezer door. The tube is hidden inside the body and, unfortunately, is made of plain steel (it’s cheaper than putting a copper or stainless steel circuit), which rusts, forming micro-holes. That’s where the refrigerant comes out. The leaking heating circuit is cut off, the system is connected without it. It won’t stop the refrigerator from cooling. A little inconvenience for the owners is that they will have to defrost the freezer a little bit more often than before.
Stabbed the tube in the freezer with a knife. from 2000
One more reason of freon leakage is a casually damaged evaporator tube of the freezer. Although the tube is made of stainless steel, the walls are thin. So it’s easy to get punctured if you hurry with defrosting and chipping away pieces of ice with a knife.
After defrosting, if this damage occurs, the fridge does not turn off for a long time and then stops working at all. At first the compressor is trying to cool the compartments, but can’t cope because of the lack of freon. Then the motor stops because the gas is completely out.
Damaged evaporator will need to be replaced. If there is a small damage there is a chance to patch a hole with a special sealant, but it is not possible to say in advance how long such repair will last, so there is no guarantee.
From the practice of masters! If your refrigerator does not turn off for more than a day, do not torture it, turn it off and call the master. Prolonged use of the compressor can cause it to break and it will cost much more to repair.
Minimal price for the work of the master, if the repair requires spare parts, they are paid additionally
The refrigerator can not turn off not only after defrosting but also in other situations. All the possible reasons why the compressor works all the time can be found in the articles “Why the fridge keeps on working and does not turn off” and for the models with No Frost. “14 reasons why the fridge No Frost keeps on working without turning off”.
Could not find the reason why the refrigerator does not turn off after defrosting? Call the field service of Ice Man! The master will arrive within 24 hours, find out what’s broken and repair the problem on your premises. We repair within 24 hours after the request, and give up to 2 years warranty on repairs.
Causes of the rapid disconnection of the refrigerator and possibilities for their correction
Malfunctions and power surges
In modern appliances, although there are multiple systems that provide safety from mains instability, but sharp and frequent fluctuations can still affect the proper performance. To save expensive appliances, it is best to purchase additional protection and connect the appliance to the mains source only through them, such as a voltage regulator. Otherwise, the compressor, the electronic control unit and other important parts of the fridge can not withstand the failures and break down, which will lead to expensive repairs.
Problems with the control unit
Any household appliance that has a control board becomes vulnerable due to this small but very important detail. If the program is disturbed, the commands start coming in at different intervals
The motor starts and stops in a chaotic mode. Unstable power supply is the most probable cause of electronic unit malfunction. In this case the card needs to be reprogrammed or replaced. But it is better to leave the right to make such repairs to a specialist, especially he has all the equipment for accurate diagnosis.
Fridge buzz noise fix
The compressor malfunctions
This is the most expensive part of the refrigerator to replace or repair. The compressor performs the important function of pumping the freon in gaseous state from the evaporator and pressurizes it into the condenser. The gas is compressed and cooled in the process, condensing it to a liquid state. Through the capillary expander, the coolant flows back into the evaporator, where it absorbs heat.
In order to understand, whether the compressor is faulty, when the refrigerator frequently shuts down, it is necessary to know the resistance of its windings. each pair of terminals. If the winding is damaged or there is an inter-turn short circuit, the following often happens: The device turns on and continues to work, but with an increased load. That’s why the compressor gets hotter than usual during normal operation. The relay tries to ease the work of the motor, and therefore trips early. In modern models this part of the device is indestructible, so it must be completely replaced.
The starting protection relay is malfunctioning
This part often breaks down because of physical wear or overheating during operation. The most innocuous breakdown, which is the reason why the refrigerator shuts down after a few seconds of operation. It is much cheaper to fix it than to repair the compressor or control center.
If it turns on and immediately shuts down because of a relay, you can try to repair it before replacing the part. You should check the solenoid’s core. Folk wisdom is inexhaustible, so some craftsmen have invented to insert a wire of appropriate size or an ordinary metal rod from a ballpoint pen instead of a damaged core. But this method is not always effective, since modern models of the coil have a different structure. Conductor in this solenoid in the form of a tablet. It can be the source of why the refrigerator shuts down quickly if it burns out.
If the technique still stopped working, it is better to call an experienced master, who will make a diagnosis, and then make a quality repair. Specialists have in stock components of the highest class, the more so there is a warranty obligation. An experienced technician will quickly figure out why the appliance turns on and immediately shuts down and professionally fix the cause of the breakdown.
Diagnostics of parts of Hotpoint Ariston No Frost refrigerator
When troubleshooting the No Frost system, the method of checking the compressor and capillary system remains the same. However, since there are new components in the system, let’s take a closer look at them.
Checking the Fan
The fan is a key component of the No Frost system because it provides forced circulation of cold air inside the fridge compartment. To check its efficiency, it is enough to listen to the operation of the device, the noise of a working fan can be heard even with the naked ear, you can also bring your hand to the air duct openings to make sure that air is coming out of them. To visually check the operation of the fan it is necessary to remove the protective cover of the freezer composing its back wall. When inspecting the fan you should pay attention to its impeller. There must not be any chips and cracks on the blades.
Malfunctions that require repair
The causes of such malfunctions must be searched for with special equipment. Therefore, if you do not have this kind of experience, it is better to go to the service. At least you will know where to look for the problem.
The motor hums without shutting off, but there is no cold in the freezer compartment
The cause is clogged capillary piping: as a result, the refrigerant can not normally move through the circuit. Clogs can occur due to burnt compressor oil particles, which also move through the system.
- Clean the circuit, the system.
- Check the engine oil. Replace it if it is not usable.
- You need to recharge the system with freon gas.
The chamber is freezing so that there is ice and snow on the walls
In electromechanical models the problem can lie in the temperature regulator. In electronic refrigerators, the evaporator sensor could be broken (Indesit, Ariston and other brands with No Frost).
Because the thermostat is not sending a signal to the board about the temperature in the compartment, the board is not giving a signal to turn off. So the motor runs nonstop.
To correct the problem, the sensor or thermostat must be replaced.
Also, the problem may be caused by heat blowing into the oven cavity all the time. What is the reason for this happening:
- The door seal is worn out. Check if it is dirty so it doesn’t stick to the cabinet. Wash it with soapy water, rub it with ammonia. If the rubber is deformed, boiled water will help to return it to shape. To do this, spray a thin stream of water on the seal. If worn out, the element needs to be completely replaced.
In a single-motor refrigerator, the freezer is overfreezing and the temperature in the refrigerator compartment is elevated
- Switch is stuck in one position. Valve alternately switches the cold supply to the upper and lower chamber. If it is stuck, one of the chambers does not get the necessary cooling. Part has to be replaced.
- Electronic board failed. Then motor doesn’t receive commands and won’t shut off.
Models with two motors: Freezing compartment overfreezes the food and refrigeration compartment keeps working in the normal mode
Module must be re-diagnosed and replaced.
Freezer compartment runs without stopping, but temperature does not reach the set temperature
It’s the refrigerant outlet: somewhere the circuit is broken and the gas is leaking out. To confirm your guess, defrost the appliance and leave it standing for 24 hours. Then plug it in. If the fridge or freezer doesn’t turn on, it’s a leak.
If you have a Freon leak call the service provider who will find the place of the leak, fix the problem and refill the system.
Now you know where to look for the problem in case of such problems. Do not let the appliances work for a long time without stopping otherwise you will have to make expensive repair.
The refrigerator hums and doesn’t turn off for a long time
If your new fridge rarely shuts down or does not shut down at all, don’t be alarmed. In most cases it takes time for the technique to adapt to the new place. You have brought the equipment from the store, installed. now it needs to pump up the cold into the chambers, the temperature in the compartment should correspond to the specified parameters. So it is better to wait a few hours.
If you have had the equipment for a long time, but it freezes heavily and does not turn off, you need to beware. What’s causing it:
- The door doesn’t fit tightly to the chamber. As a result, gaps are formed, through which warm air penetrates. Motor has to work twice as hard to keep the temperature low. Can be fixed by pressing door shut more tightly.
- High temperature outside. When the room is very hot, the refrigerator has to run constantly, blowing cold. Move the enclosure away from the wall and heaters to allow proper ventilation.
serious problems can occur. In “Nord”, “Samsung”, “Stinol” models could break:
- Temperature sensor. The main module now gets no information about the temperature in the chamber. Therefore, the compressor does not receive the command to shut down. Fix problem by replacing sensor.
- Electronic module. Opposite problem. The card can neither receive nor transmit commands. Components and parts remain uncontrolled. Main module is being re-flashed or replaced.
- Clogged evaporator tube. There is a clot in the tubing because of a leak in the system. It is better to call a specialist to find and fix the problem.
- Refrigerant gas is leaking. Insufficient refrigerant in system for proper cooling. Therefore, a diagnosis is made to find the location of the leak, as well as refill the freon.
- Compressor. If it is worn out, the equipment may not turn off or freeze. The motor doesn’t have enough power to create pressure in the discharge tube. That is why the technique works, beeps, but does not freeze.
After defrosting the refrigerator does not turn off
Unplugged and defrosting the fridge. But something went wrong when you turn it on. Refrigerator may not turn off but does not cool. In this case, give the technique time to gain temperature, especially if the shelves are loaded with warm products. If after a day the operation was not resumed, you will have to deal with possible failures.
In modern models of LG, Sharp, “Ariston” can work a buzzer, blinking red light. To deactivate the sound, press the button on the control panel. Could not find the button? Check the manual.
How to investigate and fix a fridge that is too warm
- Freon gas, which serves as a refrigerant, is escaping. Users who break ice with a knife or other sharp objects can encounter such a problem. it results in damage to the chamber. Freon is pumped in or the filter-drier is replaced. Usually after refilling, the system will work again.
- Compressor malfunction. The motor is running and humming, but there is no cooling. Compressor needs to be replaced. After such repair the refrigerator operation should be restored.
The thermostat knob could have been turned during defrosting or intensive use, causing the temperature to rise steadily. Therefore, the engine runs without stopping after being switched on. Fix the problem by adjusting the position of the thermostat.
The Know Frost fridge doesn’t turn off: why?
Frequent problem of Indesit, Atlant, Samsung refrigerators with the Know Frost system is the thermostat. If it is set at the maximum setting, you must reduce the degree to 2.5. If the regulator is broken, then the part is replaced.
Check to see if the “Super-freeze” mode is active. In models with mechanical control it is possible to switch off the installation only manually.
Depressurization, hot air in the chamber or refrigerant drainage could also be the reason of malfunction. For exact diagnostics it is better to call the master.
The refrigerator “Atlant” or “Indesit” does not switch off
General problems of refrigerators we described above. the same happens with two-compartment models “Atlant” and Indesit. The malfunction could occur after defrosting, when the equipment does not turn off and constantly works. This leads to a rapid failure of the motor-compressor.
The master will also be able to check and fix such problems:
- a clog in the capillary tube, which leads to poor refrigerant circulation through the system;
- Freon gas leakage from microcracks in the evaporator. this is a serious repair when the damaged part has to be repaired and the system has to be topped up with the refrigerant.
Refrigerator thermostat design
Originally called the thermostat pressostat, the mechanical models are a small box with a sensitive membrane, from which a long tube extends to the point of measurement (the evaporator of the refrigerating chamber). The sensor of cheap models is in one place, we think, we regulate the temperature of two compartments, but the freezer goes by the load. Real figures are received from the evaporator of the refrigerating chamber. The freon circuit is unified, there is a certain interrelation between the modes of operation of both compartments. Developers know, they put in advance in the scale of the thermostat knob.
The box is hidden by the control panel, a long tube, winding through the nooks and crannies, reaches the measuring point. Surplus material is neatly coiled up in a convenient location inside the cabinet whenever possible. The sense of operation of the device is in the hermetic tube. Pressure acts to a greater or lesser extent on the internal diaphragm due to temperature changes. Depending on what the contact group closes-opens, energizing-disenergizing the starter relay. Diaphragm tension is regulated by the screw, turn the control knob located in the refrigerating compartment or directly on the body of the device.
Simplified scheme, the real sensor is equipped with a larger number of contacts. Terminals not always engaged. It is more suitable to study the construction in details, looking through the forums, technical brochures of firm-manufacturers. We found out why the fridge does not turn off, now let’s discuss what to do.
Troubleshooting of Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator
Let’s look at the main causes of malfunctions and solutions.
Noisy fridge operation
If the two-chamber unit used to work normally, and recently began to make a lot of noise, humming, rattling, check:
- The dishes in the chamber touch each other. It rattles when starting the motor.
- Refrigerant circulates through the circuit and gurgling noises may be heard. This is not a malfunction.
- Objects or furniture make contact with the cabinet.
- Keep at least 5 cm distance between refrigerator and walls, furniture.
Clicks and crackles during operation
Such sounds may indicate both normal operation of the equipment and problems requiring repair. If unit is working and freezing just fine, then:
- Clicking noises can be heard when the motor is shut down. Chamber wall materials deform with temperature differences.
- The thermostat may click when starting or shutting off the motor. In this case, the sounds should be from the first day of operation.
- Electromechanical model clicks when turned on, but the compressor motor does not work. There is a problem with the thermostat. It sends a message to the board that the temperature in the chamber is rising, then the board gives the command to turn on the motor. If last one doesn’t start. check thermostat.
- Technician turns on, engine starts, but stops. Relay switches off the motor with a click. Compressor broken and needs to be replaced. But the light in the compartment is on.
- Fridge clicks, motor does not turn on, compartment is dark. Starting relay is defective.
No light in compartment
Check the connections: whether the plug is snugly in the socket, press them firmly. If there is no light, replace the bulb. Pay attention to the type of lighting and choose the appropriate model.
No cold in compartment
If the temperature in the compartments is too high, you can let the refrigerator know with a red light blinking or a beeping sound.
Your fridge is not cooling? Read “Fridge compartment doesn’t work” and also check:
- The door doesn’t fit snugly. Check the seal for integrity and suitability. If dirty, wipe it down with soapy water and ammonia. Replace element if worn out. Tighten door fasteners.
- Frequency and duration of door opening. If you keep the door open for a long time, warm air is sucked into the cavity, causing the temperature to rise and condensation to form.
- Thermostat. Is the value set correctly?
If you load large quantities of warm food at one time, wait 20-30 minutes for the values to return to normal.
- Capillary blockage leads to impaired refrigerant circulation and impaired cooling. It is better to call a craftsman to fix the problem.
- Compressor malfunction. Error A2 may appear on the display. The refrigerator will consume a lot of electricity and the cold production will decrease.
Also reasons why the chamber does not freeze could be:
Food in the compartment freezes
Serious defect is thermostat malfunction, replacement and repair needed.
The motor runs without stopping
Normal compressor runs intermittently, with “rest” shutdowns.
If it won’t turn off at all and is working hard, it means
- Chamber door does not close. Constant warm air infiltration causes temperature to rise. To restore performance, motor runs nonstop, blowing cold. Check door seals and location.
- Room temperature is higher than normal. Each model, including Ariston, has a climate class. The following table shows the temperature range at which the machine can be operated.
- Snow and ice accumulation exceeds 2 to 3 mm. Heat transfer in your refrigerator is not working properly. Defrost the unit immediately.
Compressor does not start
Motor does not function, light in the chamber is on:
- Problems with No Frost operation. Contact service center for troubleshooting.
- The motor winding is defective. Needs repair or complete replacement.
- Thermostat does not work. The wiring between the regulator and the motor may be broken. It is diagnosed and replaced.
- Starting relay failure.
- Defective main board.
Compressor does not turn on, light does not come on:
All other causes are identical to the first case.
Moulding on the back wall
If a “coat” builds up on the evaporator or on the walls, the cause could be a faulty thermostat.
It is necessary to defrost models of drip type at least once per half-year. Ice formation is uncommon in Nou Frost models. If this happens in the freezer, it’s a faulty defrost timer.
Water at the bottom of the refrigerator compartment
Products pressed against the back of the unit accumulate condensate that doesn’t go down the drain, but drains down. Rinse out the foods and remove accumulated water.