Lancer 10 cooling fan does not turn on

Fuses and relays under the hood of Mitsubishi Lancer 10

In the engine compartment there is a main fuse and relay box and two additional.

The diagram of a fuse box in an engine compartment Mitsubishi Lanzer 10

1 30A I/O unit
2 40A electric motor of the cooling system fan
3 30A condenser fan motor
4 30A ABS
5 40A ABS
6 Reserve
7 30A Starter
8 15A Front fog lights
9 7.5 Motor control
11 10A Beep
12 7.5A alternator
13 20A headlamp washer
14 10A Air conditioner
15 15A Throttle valve
16 20A Anti-theft alarm buzzer
17 15A Wiper blade heater
18 Reserve
19 30A Trunk door electric actuator
20 10A Daytime exterior lighting system
21 10A High beam headlamp (left hand)
22 10A High beam headlight (right)
23 30A Amplifier for audio system
24 30A Electric equipment of diesel engine
25 20A Left dipped beam headlight (with discharge lamps)
26 20A Right passing beam headlamp (with discharge lamps)
27 10A Left passing beam headlight (with halogen bulbs)
28 10A Right passing beam headlight (with halogen bulbs)
29 10A Engine electric power supply circuit
30 10A Ignition coil
31 20A Electric engine power supply circuit
32 15A fuel pump
R1 Glow plug relay (for diesel engines)
R2 Heat sink fan relay
R3 Heater relay
R4 Engine control relay
R5 Stability control relay
R6 Air conditioner radiator fan relay
R7 Relay of the engine control system
R8 Headlight relay
R9 Relay of the engine control system
R10 Relay for windshield wiper blades heater
R11 Relay of system of external illumination during daytime
R12 Engine control relay
R13 Antitheft alarm relay
R14 Automatic transmission relay
R15 Headlight washer relay
R16 High beam relay
R17 Relay of front fog lights
R18 Buzzer relay
R19 Air conditioner relay

Sensors of Mitsubishi Lancer 10

Mitsubishi Lancer is a great car and quite popular. In CIS countries it is loved because of its reliability and unpretentiousness, as well as “explosive” character and stylish design. Its power plant has good reliability and maintainability, most car owners are satisfied with their choice. But as well as all cars Lancer can cause discomfort to its owner, more often different gauges of engine control are subject to breakdowns on this auto.

Lancer internal combustion engine has a fuel injection, and such engines are equipped with a large number of various sensors involved in the formation of the fuel mixture, spark formation, the transmission of various readings to the ECU, etc.п. When any of the sensors fails the engine starts to run erratically, intermittently, fuel consumption increases or the engine cannot start at all.

This article will talk about all the sensors installed on the car Mitsubishi Lancer 10-th generation, namely their purpose, location and signs of failure.

Why does the engine cooling fan not work?

When the engine is running, the temperature in the combustion chambers reaches about 1500-2000 degrees Celsius. If not to take away heat from the walls of the cylinders, the engine overheating is inevitable and, as a result, expensive repair or replacement.

There is a cooling system for maintenance of engine thermal mode (90 degrees) in any conditions of operation. It includes the following elements:

The radiator; the expansion tank; the pump; the thermostat; the fan; the temperature and fan activation sensors; a set of connecting pipes; the heater radiator; the antifreeze.

While the thermostat is closed, the working fluid with the help of the pump circulates in a so-called small circle, cooling the cylinder block and the block head, diverting some of the heat energy. When the thermostat is opened, the fluid begins to move in a large circle and enters the radiator.

During driving, the radiator surface is blown by a counter-air flow, reducing the temperature of the working fluid. However, the radiator itself is unable to prevent the fluid from overheating, such as when the car is stopped in traffic or driven for a long time at low speed.

The radiator fan is one of the main actuators of the powertrain cooling system which can cause a number of undesirable problems if it fails.

How the fan works

In older generation cars, the fan was forced, that is, it always worked as long as the engine was running, by the drive belt. The fan is usually mounted on the pump pulley, connected to the generator pulley with a belt.

In most modern cars, applies electric fan, or drive with a viscous clutch (viscous clutch), where it occurs automatically from the sensor turns on (calibrated separately for each engine).

The fan is a simple 12V electric motor that runs from the car mains. On its shaft the impeller is installed to create an air flow directed to the radiator honeycomb. The fan itself has a mounting frame to connect it to the radiator.

Its activation is in turn controlled by a switch located in one of the radiator tanks. It is installed in the gap of fan motor power wires.

Turning on the fan

The blower switch is programmed for a certain temperature limit at which the blower contacts actuate, sending power to a relay which closes the blower power circuit, and the blower starts to run.

Fan on these machines is energized through the control box. The controller receives data from the sensor and then sends it to the motor on relay.

Possible causes of fan failure

In cases where the temperature of the antifreeze suddenly went up, and the fan on the radiator did not work, then, therefore, where the problem appeared. The vehicle must be stopped and the fault must be corrected to prevent overheating and to save the engine from costly repairs.


Open or short circuit in motor power supply circuit;

Bad contact in the connection or oxidation of contacts in the fan circuit;

Failure of safety valve in expansion tank.


If the sensor is disconnected on engines with injector, the engine is started and if the fan worked (ECU “will understand” that there is a failure in the system and will switch on the fan in the emergency mode) the sensor is defective and must be replaced.

The valve keeps the pressure in the system above atmospheric pressure, preventing the water in the working fluid from boiling when it reaches 100 degrees. If the valve is defective, the pressure equalizes with the atmospheric pressure and the fluid will boil at 100 degrees.

The sensor itself is triggered at a temperature of 105 to 107 degrees Celsius. It turns out that the liquid is already boiling, but the fan does not work yet. Cap with valve should be replaced.

Some tips

Monitor the coolant temperature periodically and check for fan actuation when the gauge reaches the danger zone;

Check the fluid level in the tank and replenish if necessary;

Monitor the system for possible fluid leakage;

If it exceeds the operating temperature, stop, find and fix the cause;

Make it a habit to flush the expansion tank cap under water pressure during the season to help keep the relief valve clean;

On motors where the fan is forced, periodically check the tension of the fan belt.

Where to Start Searching

The heater fan has several speeds. Therefore, when it does not work at any of them, you should check the fuse. It can be found in the wiring block in the passenger compartment under the dashboard. It is marked as jumper 7 rated at 30 Amps. The fuse is pink in color. Failure of this device occurs due to excessive current consumption, which most often occurs with a short circuit. If it is not eliminated, the fuse will blow again.

To work on the detection and elimination of the problem you need a meter, which is suitable car tester or multimeter. It should be noted that if the repairman has forgotten the basics of electrical engineering, it is better to give up on this endeavor. Careless actions of the repairman can destroy the electronic control unit of the fan motor.

Mitsubishi Overheating? Check This First!

#Family #Traveling

A bad thing happened here. Finally broke the fan control box on my Lancer 9.

Before this, it was working halfway (one fan “on” all the time, the second one. normally regulated) for half a year. But now both are off. Since there is no money, but it is necessary to drive, I found a variant of the decision

I ripped the unit off. Disassembled. And finally got upset. the vibration broke off the legs of the control chip. And there is no money. Had to quickly assemble a temporary solution. forcibly power the fans.

The unit is under the air intake. We have to take it off. Everything is done with the car turned off and the battery disconnected.

Use a knife or a fingernail to pry out the pins and pull them out. 3. Take off the air intake pipe. 4. Here it is, this unit. 5. Fasten with two 11 screws. Unscrew them and remove the block. 6. Carefully remove the connectors and that’s it. 7. Bend back the catches of the outside cover. 8. Let’s take the lid off 9. And take it off 10. Use a knife to cut off the sealant. 11. Remove the lid 12. Here’s what’s underneath. You can see 9 (nine) pins coming from the board. They are welded on. Break them off gently. 13. Cut the sealant off the radiator (back cover) 14. Remove the radiator.

There is some thermal paste between the heatsink and the board. The board itself is sealed with special stuff to keep out moisture. It needs to be scraped off long and thoughtfully. Otherwise you won’t be able to solder anything. Reassembly in the reverse order. Do not forget the sealant.

  • With the unit completely disconnected, the car starts up and drives normally. I don’t know if there is feedback to the computer, but if there is, the errors are not critical.
  • Before you tear off the coating from the control board, I advise to examine it under a magnifying glass. so as not to waste too much time. The vibration can break off the chip pins at the root (as I have experienced). Then it is useless to solder.
  • Failure of the fan unit can occur in two ways: always “on”, always “off”. If you can’t restore it with the instructions in this thread, you need to set the fans to always “on” before replacing the ECU. To do this, you must directly energize the contacts inside the unit. Connect according to the diagram:

I drove half a year with a non-functioning control unit in the state always “on” (including the abnormal heat in 2010), the temperature has never jumped above the operating. But driving with fans on all the time is fraught with failure of fans themselves. 4. It is necessary to check the direction of rotation of the fans after connection. 5. Smart people recommend connecting only one fan.

UPD. Outlander unit number is 1355A143 (about 50-60 in Exist)

There are some variants of solving the problem of a noisy fan of the heater Lancer 10. The most radical. replacing the furnace as a whole. But call it the way for the lazy will not work, because if you do not plan to spend an amount greater than ), then you will have to deal with the dismantling and reinstallation of the stove. This is pleasure not for the faint-hearted.

The second option. self-repair, and instead of worn bushings, many prefer to install bearings that have a much longer life. In any case the fan will have to be dismantled, but this procedure is not comparable with the replacement of the heater in the assembly. If you do the procedure yourself, you can save a decent amount of money

The motor is disconnected from the air duct

Though, you can face the problem of absence of necessary bearings (the Japanese firm NSK with marking 8х28х9), but, as a last resort, you can always order them on the checked resource. Although the noise level when the bearings are slightly higher, it is not critical, the whistling of the fan will definitely not.

So, if the heater of Lancer 10 buzzes, you need to take it out. The noisy/noisy fan is located behind the glove compartment, to disassemble it, proceed as follows

  • disconnect shock absorber holding glove box, squeeze the side mounts, pull the glove box down and out;
  • dismantle the shelf, fastened on three clips;
  • Disconnect the power plugs from the motor;
  • disconnect the cooling tube;
  • unscrew three self-tapping screws and pull out the motor.

Before removing it, you need to disconnect the power

Fuses and relays Mitsubishi Lancer 10 (CY), 2007. 2016

Most of the electrical circuits of a Japanese car are protected by fuses. Power consumers (headlights, cooling fan motor, gasoline pump, etc.).п.) are connected via a relay. This information is valid for the models of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016.

In the cabin

Located on the driver’s side at the bottom of the dashboard.

To access the fuse box, located in the passenger compartment, remove the cover by overcoming the elastic resistance of the retainers. General view.

Fuse diagram in the cabin block of Mitsubishi Lancer
Transcript Current, A
1 Heater (Fuse-Link) 30
2 Stop lights 15
3 Rear fog light 10
4 Windshield wiper 30
5 Optional chains 10
6 Electric door locks actuator 20
7 Audio system 15
8 Control unit relay 7,5
9 Cabin light bulbs (lamps) 15
10 Emergency light signalling
11 Rear window wiper 15
12 Control and measuring instruments 7,5
13 Lancer cigarette lighter fuse/power outlet 15
14 Ignition switch 10
15 Sunroof 20
16 Door mirrors outside 10
17 All wheel drive system 10
18 Back lamp 7,5
19 Power outlet 15
20 Power windows (fusible link) 30
21 Heated rear window (fusible link) 30
22 Heated exterior mirrors 7,5
23 AC power supply 15
24 Power seats 25 (20)
25 Seat heating 30
A Additional equipment
B Electric heater fan relay
C Heated seats
D Heated rear window

In the engine compartment

Located on the left side of the underhood. 1. To access the mounting block located in the engine compartment, press the latch. 2. And remove the cover of the mounting block.

Fuses on Mitsubishi Lancer 10: where to find them, diagram

Emergency procedures Daily checks and fault detection Operating instructions Cautions and safety precautions for work on the vehicle Basic tools, measuring instruments and operating procedures Engine Cooling system Lubrication system Intake, exhaust system Power transmission Drive shafts Undercarriage Brake system Steering system Body heating and ventilation Passive safety Electrical equipment Electrical diagrams Glossary

In winter 2006, at the Detroit International Auto Show, Mitsubishi Motors unveiled the new-generation Lancer sedan. The new Lancer X was developed in the design bureau in Trebur near Frankfurt (Germany). The sports sedan has borrowed some of its features from the Concept-X concept car (presented in 2005 in Tokyo), also developed in Europe. It becomes obvious at a glance of distinct wedge-shaped silhouette, aggressive front mask, deeply set headlights and short trunk. Lancer X is considerably superior to its predecessor in overall dimensions, interior volume and body rigidity. Length has increased by 35 mm (4570), width by as much as 65 mm (1760), height by 60 mm (1490), and wheelbase by 35 mm (2635). The car is built on the platform of “Project Global”, a new flexible architecture. This platform is a basis for several new models of Mitsubishi, including new middle-sized SUV Outlander XL and a new generation of sportcar Lancer Evolution. The car is distinguished by a bright sporty appearance, stylish interior design and a variety of performance options. Model is made in Japan. The novelty is completely adapted for operation in Russian conditions like all Mitsubishi cars supplied to Russia. Lancer X is extremely reliable, spacious automobile with individual style and excellent characteristics. Its concept is based on advanced technologies and rich engineering heritage of Mitsubishi Motors, manufacturer of legendary cars. The new range of engines and a unique for “C” class variable transmission with steering wheel switches provide excellent dynamics of Lancer X. 16-valve four-cylinder engine line DOHC with aluminum cylinder block and proprietary electronic timing control system MIVEC provides high dynamic performance while meeting the most stringent environmental standards. There are three gasoline engines to choose from: 1.5 L (109 L.с.), with a capacity of 2 liters (150 l.с.) and a 1.8 liters (143 l.с.) The engines are combined with a 5-speed manual transmission or a 4-band automatic INVECS-II. There is 5-speed manual transmission or SportronicR CVT variator with steering wheel switches for cars with 2,0 L engine. The car can also be equipped with 2.0-liter diesel engine. Mitsubishi offers three options, differing in the level of equipment: “Invite”, “lnvite” and “Intense. In 2011, the company introduced an updated version of the beloved car. Not having any constructive difference from the first version, the new Lancer has become more elegant, thanks to the new execution of a radiator grill and a bumper. Otherwise it is the same car as before. The updated version can be equipped with a new 1.6-liter gasoline engine, which replaced its 1.5-liter predecessor, and a five-speed transmission. This manual describes Mitsubishi Lancer X cars produced since 2007, taking into account the updated versions produced since 2011.

Mitsubishi Lancer X
Mitsubishi Lancer X 1.5 Years of production: 2007 Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine volume, cm3 1499 Doors: 4 Seats: 5 Gearbox: Manual 5-speed/Auto 4-speed Fuel: gasoline Fuel tank capacity: 59 l Consumption (mixed): 7 l/100 km
Mitsubishi Lancer X 1.6 Years of production: 2011 Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine displacement, cm3 1590 Doors: 4 Seats: 5 Gearbox: Manual 5-speed/Auto 4-speed Fuel: petrol Fuel Tank Capacity: 59L Consumption (combined): 7L/100km
Mitsubishi Lancer X 1.8 Years of production: 2007 Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine displacement, cm3 1798 Doors: 4 Seats: 5 Gearbox: Manual 5-speed/Variator Fuel: petrol Fuel capacity: 59L Consumption (mixed): 8.0 l/100 km
Mitsubishi Lancer X 2.0 Years of production: 2007 Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine displacement, cm3: 1998 5 Seats: 5 Gearbox: Manual 5-speed/Variator Fuel: petrol Fuel Tank Capacity: 59L Consumption (Mixed): 8.8 l/100 km
Mitsubishi Lancer 2.0 Diesel Years of manufacture: 2007 Body type: sedan/hatchback Engine displacement, cm3: 1986 Doors: 5 Seats: 5 Gearbox: Manual 5-speed/Auto 4-speed Fuel: Diesel Fuel Tank Capacity: 59L Consumption (city/highway): 6L/100km

On the American automobile market, the Mitsubishi Lancer X may be sold as the Galant Fortis. The car does not have any significant design differences from models intended for other markets.

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Causes and symptoms of malfunction

Usually, when using the control lever, there is a weak motor work or you have to apply force to turn it on. In addition, drivers notice minimal warm airflow, squeaking or squealing during heating operation. If the system leaks, antifreeze is spread on the mat. This is caused by the following factors:

  • violation of the rules of operation or installation of the heater;
  • wear and tear of parts, cables or plastic components;
  • mechanical damage as a result of an accident;
  • Defective fuse or thermostat spring;
  • Low antifreeze level;
  • depressurization;
  • resistor malfunction;
  • Damage of cable, contact on the block, control unit.
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