Only one underfloor heating circuit heats what to do?
Here you will learn why the water underfloor heating does not heat: possible problems and their manifestation, the cause of poor performance, uneven and long heating times, and what a breakthrough is.
Despite the fact that built-in heating systems and, in particular, water underfloor heating, are considered the most reliable, durable, efficient, sooner or later you may run into problems.
Having studied them in advance, it is easier to determine why the water heated floor does not work, and to take measures to correct the malfunction.
Malfunction in the system of water underfloor heating manifests itself in a sharp decrease in the level of comfort in the room.
- Most often there is no heating, the room gets cold.
- Less often users have to deal with excessive heating, when it becomes unbearably hot, and the time of heating water floor heating is significantly reduced. If such a fault is not corrected in time, it can spoil the floor covering, screed and the pipes themselves.
The question arises why poorly heats the water underfloor heating or no heating at all?
Often, such problems can arise immediately after the installation of the system at first start-up. That is why it is important to know the requirements for commissioning a hot water floor, as well as know how to properly adjust the system.
To not worry, wondering how long it takes to warm up a water underfloor heating, it is worth adhering to all the requirements of installation technology in the construction of a “warm pie”. One of the possible causes of poor quality heat output of the system is poor quality insulation.
Periodic records of recording energy consumption and temperature can be invaluable in identifying the problem. Referring to them, it is much easier to detect a malfunction in time.
Water in-floor heating is a rather complex system of interconnected components. If the water underfloor heating does not work, the causes may be different.
First of all, you need to know the basic elements of this type of heating:
- Pipes. pipelines through which the coolant circulates, transferring heat to the floor surface.
- Circulation pump.
- Collector and actuators of the inlet group, serving to regulate the flow in the circuits, as well as the balancing valve designed to mix the heated water and the water that has already given off heat.
- Thermostats and thermoregulators to regulate and maintain the set temperature. In case of failure, both cooling and critical overheating of the system is possible.
It is worth taking into account possible flaws in the installation. Remove such a fault, such as insufficient insulation and high heat loss, will be problematic, because you will have to lift the floor covering warm water floor, remove screed and pipes.
Also, if the water heated floor does not warm, the reasons may lie in the wrong calculations in the design and, consequently, improperly matched the parameters of the system components. It often happens that there is not enough energy for proper heating. In this case, it is a matter of poor mains voltage or insufficient capacity of the boiler.
However, consider the most characteristic breakdowns, places and causes of their occurrence, as well as ways to solve the problem.
Breakthrough of the water underfloor heating is manifested by leaks and often a sharp drop in pressure in the pipes. Leaks not only reduce the amount of coolant in the system, but also fraught with the destruction of the floor, flooding the neighbors and damage to property.
If a warm water floor has become poorly heated, and a leak is suspected, the first thing to do is to inspect the surface and joints of the flooring. Wet spots may not be present. Then you should use a thermal imaging camera.
After locating the leak, the flooring and screed must be carefully removed locally. The method of fixing the leak is to cut out the damaged part of the pipe and replace it with a new, whole. Technology depends on the type of pipes used.
Before you remove the coating and cut the pipe, you must first shut off the coolant supply to the circuit (at the manifold), and then completely drain the circuit. After repairing the circuit is started. It is mandatory to check the solder or connection for leaks.
Before warming up a water heated floor, it is necessary to deflate it.
In cases where a water underfloor heating does not warm properly, the reasons may lie in the uneven distribution of the coolant in the loops. This is due to the fact that the loops generally have different lengths. If the water flow rate at the manifold to each loop is the same, it will take longer for the coolant to travel through the longer loop. Consequently, the water cools down faster in such loops.
In this case, to solve the problem why is not heated warm water floor will adjust the coolant flow on the collector in each circuit. The levels of electric actuators on supply valves need to be checked and adjusted.
It will have to be patient, because how long it takes the water underfloor heating depends on many factors (the structure and thickness of the “warm cake”, the temperature and intensity of water supply, the temperature outside the windows, the floor covering material, what power heater is selected for the water underfloor heating, etc.). д.).
Facilitate control and regulation will help means of automation, namely temperature sensors and servo drives on the collector valves connected to the outdoor thermostat. the analyzer that sends commands to the collector to regulate water flow into the loops.
Why is not the floor heating, if there is no leakage? Considering the fact that some elements of the system require mains power to function, it can be assumed that they are the cause of trouble.
Failure of circulation pump and thermostat located in the mixing unit of the manifold seems to be common breakage. Check whether they are supplied with voltage. You can do this with a multimeter or indicator screwdriver. In principle, you can also tell if a pump is not working by the absence of any noise.
After a general check of the thermostat, if the problem is not detected, you need to check the resistance of each of its terminals. It is possible that the temperature sensors are broken. That is why it is recommended to check them regularly for proper functioning.
If you can’t find out why a water heated floor doesn’t warm and nothing else is suspicious, it’s better to ask for help from a professional.
Asking the question of how long it takes to heat a water heated floor, you should not count on the instantaneous response of the system, because such heating is inert. Nevertheless, too long waiting gives a reason to suspect a malfunction, which you can fix with your own hands.
You don’t have underfloor heating, but you want to? I’ve compiled 15 of the most common mistakes that are made when installing water underfloor heating. Because of these mistakes, thousands of people get unworkable heating systems and many myths about underfloor heating arise.
The most common myth that you can’t heat a building with just underfloor heating. you have to put radiators. Because underfloor heating can’t warm up a building.
In my opinion, the rudest mistake when installing any heating system is the lack of calculation of heat losses of the building. When you do not count heat losses, you can say the heating system is done by eye.
By eye, the radiators are selected, usually according to the size of the window or at the rate of 1 section per 10 square meters if sectional radiators are used. The underfloor heating is done by eye. Or they put radiators in rooms with underfloor heating “just in case”.
If you talk to a guy like that, tell him to go fuck himself. In the output you get either not a working system, or spend extra money for the construction of the heating system. Because the installer insured himself for your money and put in extra heaters.
Or vice versa. he installed low-power heaters. In any case it’s a loss.
I had such a case. Before I became an expert on heating, I was doing renovations in my house. The installer who was supposed to do the heating came. We walk around the house. And I ask him: “How many radiators should be installed and what kind of radiators??”
He answered: “As many as you want, that’s how many we’ll put.
That’s an embarrassing answer. I thought he should know better than me how many and what.
I also thought, “Strange installer. He doesn’t know how to choose radiators.”We then somehow decided how many and where to put.
And in the first winter after the repair my family and I were safely freezing in our house. I then changed some radiators to more powerful, others I built up. In general, due to the incompetence of the installer I had to solve a lot of headaches with heating.
The underfloor heating also had to be redone.
If you think it’s just such an unskilled installer I got. you’re wrong. There are a lot of such “masters”. And each of you is at risk of working with this.
The first thing you should do BEFORE installing the heating system is to calculate the heat loss. This calculation will show: whether it is enough power of heating floors for heating of the building or not; how much it is not enough, what power additional heaters are needed.
Calculation of heat loss can help you avoid many mistakes when building a heating system.
The step of the pipe of a warm floor is made as the installers are used to. Somebody’s doing 20 cm. Someone does 25. There are cases where they do pipe spacing of 30 or 40 cm.
And this is the second common mistake, which follows from the first error. No calculation of heat losses, respectively it is not clear what power must be compensated. That’s why installers often do things the wrong way.
The design of the underfloor heating, the pipe pitch are the design parameters. To make the step of the pipe more than 20 cm is a big risk, you can get a temperature zebra. This is when the floor surface warms up unevenly, forming bands.
The third mistake: poor insulation under pipes of a warm floor or in general its absence. Miserable installers explain this by the fact that the heat rises up, so the pipe can be laid without insulation: directly on the concrete or on the ground. You can not do so.
Concrete screed has a thermal conductivity of thirty! times greater than the air. Therefore, like everything in nature, heat energy will tend to move to where there is the least resistance. So if you make a floor heating without insulation, most of the heat will dissipate into the structure or the ground.
The fourth error. Lack of expansion gaps. dampeners. You know that materials expand when heated. And screed, in which are mounted pipes water heating floor when heated will also expand. And if it has nowhere to expand, it will start to burst. The flooring also starts to warp.
Fifth mistake: long heating pipe loops. Long contours create a large hydraulic resistance, which entails a deterioration of the coolant circulation in the pipes of the underfloor heating.
This often leads to the installation of more powerful circulating pumps. And that means wear and tear on the pipes, high costs of buying a pump, increased energy consumption. Or a system that doesn’t work.
Sixth mistake: too many loops per manifold group. Under the building rules it is allowed to apply the distributive collector to 8 contours, by the European standards to 12 contours. It’s best not to do underfloor heating zones with more than 12 circuits. There is a high risk of getting a non-functional system.
Seventh mistake: wrongly selected circulation pump. A weak pump will not provide proper circulation of the coolant in the system. Which will lead to a lack of heating of a part of the underfloor heating or the entire system. A powerful pump is expensive and energy overspent.
Eighth mistake: regulation is implemented incorrectly, there are no mixing sets, regulators. In this case, the heating will overheat. Often inexperienced installers install the system without regulators, connecting the floor heating directly to a high-temperature system.
The rooms with such “warm floors” are constantly hot and stuffy. Underfloor heating is a low temperature system, where the surface temperature should not exceed 35 degrees. What is achieved by using regulators, special valves and nodes.
Ninth mistake: made too thin or too thick screed over the water underfloor heating pipes. With a thin screed, the floor heating will warm unevenly, with a thick screed, the floor heating will be very long heating and cooling. It’s uncomfortable and uncomfortable.
With heating is clear, turned on in the fall. half a day has passed and the floor is warm.
Now imagine, it is 20 outside in the daytime, at night it is 0, and the boiler is set at room temperature 22. In the morning the sun shines through the windows, quickly heating up your floor, the boiler is off, and the heat from the screed will come into the room for several hours more.
And your floor will turn from warm to hot. And in the evening or at night the opposite process happens: the house began to cool, the boiler is on, but the floor will be heated for several hours. It’s like that every day.
The tenth position in our chart. Improperly chosen flooring. Here I will not particularly comment, I think many are clear that the higher thermal conductivity in the coating, the better.
But on a warm floor, there are regularly not very suitable materials: wood or carpets. When calculating heat losses and the system, you again need to consider the flooring materials, which are often overlooked.
Eleventh mistake: there are no air valves on the distribution manifolds. Air. the main enemy of any hydraulic heating system. Air must escape from the system, and if there is no way to release it, sooner or later there will be airlocks, which will block the circulation of coolant in the system. The result: a poorly functioning or non-functional system.
Twelfth mistake: wrong order of connecting the floor heating pipe to the manifolds. I’ve seen mistakes in my practice when the flow and return circuits are mounted on one collector. And then this circuit was not working.
Or break the sequence of connections of circuits on the manifold. For example, the supply of the circuit is connected to the first outlet of the supply manifold, and the return is connected to some third or fourth outlet on the return manifold.
Then there is confusion in adjusting the circuits. The heating system then does not work very correctly. And somehow to adjust its operation is very difficult.
Thirteenth error: faults in the installation of pipes of water underfloor heating or subsequent construction work. It can be kinks. Compression of pipes during installation of screed. Drilled pipes. Or clogging pipes with sand and other materials. This includes everything that will prevent the normal circulation of the coolant.
According to our statistics: In every second construction project someone will injure a pipe. Someone is drilling into the floor for some reason, or making any kind of strokes. That some painter or electrician will put help on the floor heating pipes before the floor screed. In general, it is necessary to keep an eye on.
Fourteenth error: Connecting on the same manifold group of pipes of water underfloor heating and radiator pipes (with manifold wiring). Radiators and underfloor heating pipes have different resistance.
If you hook up on one collector group of water underfloor heating and radiators, such a system is difficult to balance. In addition, the radiators operate at a different temperature range: 60. 80 degrees, which is much higher than that of water heated floors. Therefore it is better not to combine both systems on one manifold group.
And the last fifteenth mistake: using low-quality materials.
While listing fifteen mistakes, I remembered another common mistake.
Mistake 6. This is when they do not do a hydraulic test of the heating or water system after installation. Any heating system should be checked more than once. If you are building a house or doing major repairs, pressure testing of heating and water is better to do several times.
Installed the system. did pressure testing. Installed plasterboard in the room where the floors are warm or in the bathrooms. did a pressure test.
If you have already completed the pre-finishing work and are about to start the finishing work, make the pressure test. Believe me, it is better to identify and fix the fault with the heating or water supply before you will lay tiles or laminate, wallpaper or paint the walls.
This is the list of errors I got. If you know, any other mistakes when installing a water heated floor, write them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. Thousands of people will thank you.
Underfloor heating is bad. underfloor heating problems Why isn’t your underfloor heating working?
Home Underfloor heating. underfloor heating problems Why isn’t your underfloor heating heating working?
Bad water underfloor heating. underfloor heating faults Why isn’t your underfloor heating warm
If your underfloor heating is bad. don’t rush to berate the manufacturer, there may be a problem with the underfloor heating. Let’s look at the main reasons why the floor heating does not warm.
One branch of a water underfloor heating is not heating
Here you will learn why the water underfloor heating does not warm: possible problems and their manifestation, the cause of poor performance, uneven and long heating time, as well as in what manifests a breakthrough.
Despite the fact that built-in heating systems, and in particular, water underfloor heating, are considered the most reliable, durable, efficient, sooner or later you can encounter problems.
By studying them in advance it is easier to determine why the water heated floor does not work, and to take steps to correct the malfunction.
Failure in the system of water underfloor heating manifests itself in a sharp decrease in the level of comfort in the room.
- Most often there is no heating, it becomes cold in the room.
- Less often users have to deal with excessive heating, when it becomes unbearably hot, and the heating time of the water underfloor heating is significantly reduced. If such a fault is not eliminated in time, it can spoil the floor covering, screed and the pipes themselves.
The question arises why the water underfloor heating is bad or there is no heating at all?
Often, such problems can occur immediately after installation of the system at the first start-up. That is why it is important to know the requirements for commissioning a warm water floor, as well as know how to properly adjust the system.
In order not to worry, wondering how long it takes to warm up a water heated floor, it is worth adhering to all the requirements of the technology of installation in the construction of the “warm pie”. One possible reason for the poor quality of the heat output of the system is poor-quality insulation.
Periodic records of recording energy consumption and temperature can be invaluable in identifying the problem. Comparing with them, it is much easier to detect a malfunction in time.
Water in-floor heating is a rather complex system of interconnected components. If your water underfloor heating is not working, there may be various reasons.
First of all, you need to know the basic elements of this type of heating:
- Pipes. pipelines through which the coolant circulates, transferring heat to the floor surface.
- Circulation pump.
- Manifold and actuators of the input group, serving to regulate the flow in the circuits, as well as balancing valve designed to mix the heated and already given out heat water.
- Thermostats and thermostat regulators, allowing you to adjust and maintain a predetermined temperature. In case of failure, both cooling and critical overheating of the system is possible.
It is worth taking into account the possible flaws in the installation. Eliminate defects such as insufficient insulation and high heat loss, will be problematic, because you will have to lift the floor covering warm water floor, remove screed and pipes.
Also if the warm water floor does not warm, the reasons may lie in the wrong calculations in the design and, as a consequence, improperly matched the parameters of the system components. It often happens that there is not enough energy for proper heating. In this case it is a weak voltage of the network or insufficient power of the boiler.
However, consider the most characteristic breakdowns, places and causes of their occurrence, as well as ways to solve the problem.
Breakthrough of the water underfloor heating is manifested by a leak and often a sharp drop in pressure in the pipes. Leakage not only reduces the amount of coolant in the system, but is fraught with the destruction of the floor, flooding the neighbors and damage to property.
If a water heated floor began to warm badly, and the leak is suspected, the first thing to do is to inspect the surface and joints of the flooring. Wet spots may not be present. Then use a thermal imaging camera.
After locating the leakage area you need to carefully remove the floor covering and the screed locally. The method of fixing the leak is to cut out the damaged part of the pipe and replace it with a new, whole. The technology depends on the type of pipes used.
Before dismantling the coating and dissecting the pipe, you must first shut off the coolant supply to the circuit (at the manifold), and then completely drain the circuit. After repair, the circuit is started. It is mandatory to check the connection or solder tightness.
Before you heat the water underfloor heating, it is necessary to deflate.
In cases where the water floor heating does not warm properly, the causes may lie in the uneven distribution of the coolant in the circuits. This is due to the fact that the loops are usually of different lengths. If the rate of water flow at the collector in each loop is the same, then the coolant will need more time to pass the longer loop. Accordingly, in such loops, the water cools down faster.
In this case, to solve the question why is not heated water underfloor heating will adjust the coolant flow on the collector in each circuit. It is necessary to check and adjust the levels of electric actuators of supply valves.
You have to be patient, because the time it takes the water underfloor heating depends on many factors (the structure and thickness of the “warm cake”, the temperature and intensity of water supply, the temperature outside the windows, the floor covering material, which power is selected as the water heater for the floor heating, etc). д.).
To facilitate control and regulation will help means of automation, namely temperature sensors and actuators on the manifold valves connected to an outdoor thermostat. the analyzer, which sends commands to the manifold to regulate water flow into the loops.
Why the water underfloor heating does not warm up if there is no leakage? Given that some elements of the system to function requires power from the mains, we can assume that the cause of trouble lies in them.
Widespread breakdown appears to be the failure of the circulation pump and thermostat, located in the mixing unit of the manifold. Check whether they are energized. You can do this with a multimeter or a screwdriver. Generally speaking, pump malfunction may also be indicated by the absence of any noise.
After a general check of the thermostat, if no problem is detected, the resistance of each terminal should be checked. It is quite possible that the temperature sensors are out of order. And that is why it is recommended to check their functioning at regular intervals.
If you can not find why the water heated floor does not warm and nothing else is suspicious, it is better to ask for help from a specialist.
Asking yourself how long heats up the water underfloor heating, you should not count on an immediate response from the system, because such heating is inert. Nevertheless, waiting too long gives reason to suspect a malfunction, which can be eliminated with your own hands.
Heating systems, which are equipped with our apartments and houses, are distinguished not only by their technology and efficiency, but also by their reliability. The degree of reliability of heating systems depends on numerous factors, not the least of which is the practicality and functionality of the heating equipment included in the home heating. The water underfloor heating is considered the most reliable among the used heating systems. Thanks to the technology and design, this heating scheme is very easy to use. In terms of maintenance, running a water floor does not require much attention and no special problems.
Despite the high performance of floor heating systems can malfunction. Often, during the heating season we wonder why the floor in our house does not warm, the floor heating is broken or the accident is caused by other reasons. To understand the essence of the problem you can either independently or by inviting for the inspection of your heating system specialists. heating engineers.
If you have an idea of how your heating system works, you can try to solve the problem yourself. Your floor heating does not work. this means that at some point during installation there was a mistake or one of the system components malfunctioned. Let’s find a way out of this situation together.
In order to know the probable causes of why your home heating works intermittently or not at all, you need to know how the heating system works and how the main parts and elements of the structure function. If your water floor badly heats, not corresponding to the given parameters, the main reasons lie on the surface. It’s all about technical deficiencies made during the installation of the water floor. Usually it is a violation of the technology of installation, wrong selected consumables and additional equipment.
The specificity of installation is how well the water circuit is laid and how well the connection of the pipeline to the heating system is carried out. Lack of proper hydraulic calculations, improper adjustment of the mixing unit leads to the fact that the floor heating fluid begins to flow into the pipeline intermittently or its temperature is significantly lower than required.
Evaluating the entire design, you can focus on the following design elements of the heating system. Underfloor heating most often does not warm for the following reasons:
- the thermostat and temperature control sensor have failed;
- The balancing valve has failed;
- The circulation pump has stopped working;
- The applied thermostatic fuse is broken;
- actuators of collector inlet pipes are broken;
- the integrity of the water circuit is broken;
- Bypass problem.
Each of these elements can fail, making your floor heating not functional.
On a side note: breakage of the servo, temperature control sensors high probability of failure of the thermostat. Similar situation with the balancing valve. Failed valve can not provide a normal mixing of cold water to the hot coolant. Accordingly, the water temperature in the water circuit will not be sufficient to heat.
One can list for a long time the probable breakdowns of individual elements of the heating system. In each case, you have to look for the immediate cause of why the floor heating does not turn on or works intermittently.
Consider separately the most common types of failure of the floor heating.
A typical and common problem faced by the owners of urban apartments and private homes, complaining about the unsatisfactory work of the floor heating. uneven heating. In normal operation, the water circuit should fully and evenly warm the concrete screed or floor covering, creating the necessary conditions for heating the home.
In this case the problem is the uneven flow of the coolant in the water loop. Due to the fact that the pipes may have different lengths, due to the same intensity of the coolant, the degree of heating of each pipe is different. Usually set the actuator levels in the manifold cabinet to the desired position before starting.
For reference: The actuators are connected to a distribution block, which in turn is connected to an external thermostat. The signal coming to the actuators from the thermostat actuates the spindles by which the flow intensity of the heating medium in each pipe is adjusted.
Before the start of the system the optimal parameters, calculated for each circuit, are set from the very beginning. By measuring the temperature of the thermal fluid in each water circuit, the actuators are set in an appropriate position. Consequently, changing the temperature of the heating fluid in the system, changing the degree of heating of the water circuit.
The solution is as follows. Looking for the water circuit, in which the coolant does not heat the water floor in accordance with the set temperature, then manually increase the flow of boiler water.
Pressure fluctuations in the system can lead to burst pipes. In this case the leakage is the most unpleasant factor, which must be repaired urgently. A slight depressurization of the water pipe becomes the cause of weakening the intensity of the coolant flow. Accordingly, the floor is not heated unevenly enough. The screed can soon collapse. There are several ways to locate the leak. About the simplest options, using improvised means, there is a lot of information material. The fastest and easiest way to do this is to use a thermal imaging camera. This device will pinpoint the location of a damaged water pipe.
Note: your floor doesn’t work, so there is not enough coolant in the water loop. To begin to eliminate the leak, you must turn off the coolant supply through the collector. The water circuit is drained through the return pipe.
Technology to eliminate leaks depends on the used pipes.
For example: installation of water loop from cross-linked polyethylene pipes. the most widespread and affordable option for installation of water floor. But sometimes you have to pay for the cheapness of the consumable material in the process of operation. At the slightest mechanical damage the pipe loses its integrity. The problem can be solved by installing a fitting. The location of the fitting must be marked on a plan or in the installation area of the manifold.
After a fitting is installed, the edges are crimped. If you turn on the coolant after repair work, you should wait two, three days to make sure that the connection is secure. Only then the integrity of the screed and the floor structure is restored.
The option using PVC pipes looks preferable. Such consumables have the necessary strength. However, if improperly handled with construction tools during construction and repair work, you can easily cause damage to the water circuit. Troubleshooting is carried out in a similar way. First remove the old screed. Then the damaged section is replaced by the whole fragment of the pipe. The work is carried out using a soldering iron and a repair socket.
A new pouring of the concrete screed is performed only after checking the connection for leaks.
The last important thing to consider when malfunctioning with the underfloor heating is the failure of electrical equipment. This can include all devices and units that have electrical power. The main element in this group is the circulation pump, the thermostat, standing on the equipment of the mixing unit. Devices can fail due to lack of voltage in the electrical network.
To determine whether the pump is working or not, you can characterize the sound of the work, which produces a working unit. Identify problems with the thermostat as follows:
- when the device is working properly, the moment of the rod turn is clearly visible. This process does not occur in the event of a breakdown;
- There is no need to repair the thermostat. It is better to buy a new device, which will further ensure the reliable operation of the entire heating system.
Having considered the main problematic moments, because of which the floor heating can not work, it should be noted a number of common factors that affect the efficiency of the heating circuit.
The probable cause of poor heating of the water circuit can be insufficient power of the heating device or a large number of heating radiators, taking a large amount of coolant from the system.
The system may start normally, but after a certain time it stops heating. This often happens due to an air lock in the pipes. If the situation has not improved with the removal of air, then the problem is with the installation of waterproofing. You are able to identify the cause of underfloor heating on your own in almost every case. Competent calculations and observance of technology during installation, will allow you to avoid such situations in the future.
Cluttered living space, carpets and a lot of furniture on the floor significantly reduces the heat output of the underfloor heating. Connection of the water circuit in the centralized heating system through the radiator, can tell on the deterioration of the quality of space heating, both through radiators and through the floor heating.
Electric underfloor heating gets its energy from the mains. They stop working when the heating elements thermoregulator or thermostat fail, resulting in floor heating ceases to warm.
In this article, we will consider the main problems, although there may be other breakdowns that are not described in this guide.
We will tell you what to do if the electric underfloor heating does not work, how to make repairs and carry out the first turn on the device in operation.
Problems with the voltage
If the electric floor heating does not warm up, you should first check the power supply. To do this you need to look at the thermoregulator, there is a special indicator and if it is lit, it means that the current is coming. If it does not light up, then a visual inspection of the available contacts is made, and then using a multimeter, the voltage is determined.
If there is voltage at the input, you must make sure that the electrical energy is reaching the cable or the foil. Then the settings are checked (the minimum heating may be wrongly set) and the reliability of the contacts (connecting the wires to the terminals). if the contact is bad, the floor stops heating.
After that, determine the voltage at the output. at the point where the wires are connected to the thermostat. If it does not match the values in the network, then you need to replace the regulator.
Insufficient heating can indicate low voltage, you need to install a voltage regulator.
Errors during installation work
If the floor heating is there, but weak, the device frequently turns on, does not gain a degree, or stops working at all. the reason is in improper installation. Then it will be necessary to carry out diagnostics of all elements.
If the floor is not heated above 30 degrees:
- Incorrectly defined power;
- High heat loss. poor insulation;
- Incorrectly laid heating elements or chosen step;
- Thick screed;
- The temperature sensor is close to the surface.
If such mistakes are made, you’ll have to dismantle the floor and do it all over again.
The floor may not work efficiently if the sensor is close to the cable. If it is placed in a corrugation, it is easy to push further, or on the contrary pull it out by 5 cm. this can solve the problem.
Electric floor heating will not function properly, if the rules of installation are not respected. the heater is placed under heavy objects.
Another thing that leads to the failure of the device is not careful installation (wire breakage). Then you have to disassemble the construction, look for the breakage area and fix the problem place.
Thermostat not working
If the floor heating does not turn on, the reason may be in the thermoregulator. the relay is broken or the electronic circuit is inoperative. Find out what is faulty device can be a direct connection of the floor heating to the network. If it is warm, then the problem is in the regulator.
Begin to make a repair is necessary with the removal of the device from its seat, so that you can see the terminals.
Then you need to check with a multimeter or voltmeter whether the 220 Watt power is supplied to the temperature controller.
If the correct voltage is available, make sure that the contacts are secure, and that the cable is connected correctly. The wiring may get loose because of a loose connection, and the floor heating program will display a “broken sensor” error.
If everything is normal, the resistance is measured by connecting the contacts of the multimeter and the thermostat. The data must be close to the nameplate data. If they are 0, then the regulator is defective, and it must be repaired, or replaced with a new one.
To check whether the device works or not, you can also as follows. Connect a light bulb to the terminals that the underfloor heating wires are connected to. Then switch on the voltage with constant turning off the temperature switch. If the device is working properly, when the room temperature is reached, the light bulb will light up.
To replace the device with your own hands is not difficult. But first of all you should disconnect power supply. Then open the front panel, replace the old thermostat with a new one, and connect all the wires to it.
No short-circuit proof fuse on the temperature controller. Their function in electric floors is entrusted to the auto switch and RCD.
The temperature sensor does not work
Another common reason why the floor heating does not warm when the thermostat is working. problems with the temperature sensor. If it is out of order, the floor will not shut down, which will increase energy costs.
When checking the temperature sensor, it is necessary to measure its resistance, and compare the results with the passport data. Small deviations are acceptable, in case of significant discrepancies the device must be replaced.
If you installed the sensor correctly. in a conduit, it is not difficult to change it. No need to dismantle the floor and screed, you just need to open up the wall a little. The temperature sensor is pulled out of the corrugation, and replaced with a new one.
Damage to the heating element
If after checking you find that the thermostat and the temperature sensor are intact, and all connections are good, then you need to look for the problem in the cable.
Cable breakage could have occurred during installation. The presence of a short circuit can be checked with a multimeter, but to locate the gap requires more sophisticated equipment.
First disconnect the cable from the thermostat, and use a tester to measure the resistance between the two wires. It should meet the factory specifications of 11. 700 ohms. Allowable discrepancy within 5 %.
If the value is 0. there is a short circuit. This is the case when the system is overheated or when the cable cross-section is incorrectly dimensioned. If the gauge gives infinity, then there is a break in the wire or it is burned out. Then check the connections.
If the figures in the hundreds of ohms, you need to connect a gauge at 2500 V, and apply an increased voltage level between the braid and the cores of the cable. Value equals 0. cable is broken or contact in the socket is lost, you need to locate the fault.
To determine the exact location of the fault you will need:
- Burn the place of weak insulation. apply there high voltage (10 kV), if the voltage in the cores of 350 V, it leads to the formation of the welding arc ignition;
How to Check Underfloor Heating 20200409 150155
When using heating mats, the search is much easier, because they are closer to the surface.
If after checking with a multimeter (see instructions for testing) it is found that there is a short circuit between the cores, then there is no need to burn through. You can immediately connect a generator and look for the fault location.
After identifying the fault, you can proceed directly to the repair of underfloor heating cable. The step by step instructions are as follows:
- often than not, the reason is that the contact in the coupling is lost. It is heated with a construction hair dryer. this will make it easier to cut it.
- The sleeve is sheared off at the point of rupture.
If the cable is simply broken, the process is the same. Only the socket is missing and has to be cut off.
Failure of the infrared membrane
Infrared film belongs to the electric floor and it can not work for the above mentioned reasons: no power, incorrect installation, broken thermo regulator or temperature sensor.
But, the film has its own peculiarities. it is connected to the network by wires that are connected to the copper bus clamps. If the contact is bad, the metal is oxidized, it causes circuit breakage.
Therefore, if all the devices have been checked, and the floor still does not warm, it is necessary to examine the contacts. They should be clipped, or replace the clamp (if it is broken).
The equipment is not chosen correctly
Inadequate functioning of the underfloor heating can be due to the wrong model. Before buying, you need to determine the tasks of the floor heating system. it will be additional or main heating.
As an additional heating is suitable economical model that can heat the floor to 30 degrees. If it will be the only heating system, the power should be greater, which will be able to heat the surface to 40 degrees.
When choosing a device, you should consider the heat loss and the distance between the heaters.
One circuit of the floor heating does not work
Underfloor heating is an extremely reliable and efficient heating method. New technologies appear, the water will continue to serve as the heat transfer medium for a long time. And even for such systems, there are conditions when the floor heating does not work, and then it is necessary to repair the water underfloor heating.
The main factors for breakdowns of the water heating system are unskilled installation or improperly selected materials. The specifics of installation is in the correct pairing of the contours of the floor heating with the main heating system. Enough to make a small error in the calculation of hydraulic pressure or in the settings of water mixing node to deteriorate the performance.
But how to repair the floor heating without knowing its design? Consider the main elements of the system and signs of their failure.
- Thermostat with temperature sensor. Regulates the flow of the coolant from the main system. If the servo mechanism or sensor fails, the water temperature or water volume may be critically high.
- Balancing valve. Necessary for mixing hot and cold water until a temperature of 55-60 °C is reached. Failure will also affect the degree of water heating.
- Circulation pump. With its help the hydraulic pressure in the pipes of the floor heating is formed.
- Safety pad thermostat. Backup device, preventing the flow of water with a temperature above a critical.
- Electric actuators in the manifold inlet group. Regulate the flow rate of the different system circuits.
- Piping. Branched line, which performs the functions of the transmission of thermal energy from heated water surface of the floor.
- Remote thermostats. Connected to the electric actuators of the inlet group, allow remote regulation of the heating temperature.
When properly designed and implemented, such a system can operate smoothly for up to 40 years. However, external factors, or hidden defects in the materials cause emergencies.
One of the reasons why the floor heating does not work, is damage to the pipe. If the pressure in the pipeline has dropped sharply, then this is one of the signs of a possible leak. Even if the leakage is very small, it can have serious consequences. And the matter is not only in reducing the efficiency of the heating system, but also in the future destruction of the floor. To perform repairs of water underfloor heating, you first need to determine the location of the leak. If there are no wet spots on the surface, you can use special devices: thermal imaging devices or remote moisture detectors. The area of the leakage will appear as a bright bright spot on the instrument.
So, how to deal with such a common problem, such as damage to the pipe, for example, a peorator. The first thing you need to do in such a situation is to save STIHL. The first gust. to remove the tool, but this is just what you can not do in any case, because the water will “flood” the house, and it actually serves as a plug. Before that the water flow must be shut off.
Carefully release access to the damaged area to make it easier to cut out the damaged piece of pipe, leaving both sides, if possible, larger ends. Not always at this point, there may be sections of the same type of pipe or fittings to keep dirt out of the system. They can be replaced by covering the loose ends, for example, with cellophane bags or rubber gloves.
The only reliable way to make a connection is by pressing. Purchase a piece of pipe and fittings for the repair. Crimp the edges of the mounting parts with a special crimping wrench.
One end of the pipe should be cleaned and flared and a fitting put on it. Press it in a double action. Press the other end in the same way.
Press the fitting on the other end of the pipe repaired water floor heating. Cut the repair pipe to the right size and press again, but already connections. Run water and test only the repaired area for leaks. After that, if the result is positive, pour a new screed.
This technology is suitable for pipes made of metal plastic or cross-linked polyethylene, for PVC products the procedure is somewhat different. Although they have a high mechanical strength, but if you choose the wrong place to drill, you can damage the pipeline. A special soldering iron and a repair coupling are used for repairs. First, the cuts of the coupling agree with the size of the line, then install, using a soldering iron.
Let’s consider the situation, when the pressure regimes are observed, but the floor is not warmed up enough. Why does this happen?? One possible reason is the uneven distribution of the fluid in its circuits. Basically their length is different, so it is possible that with the same speed of the coolant, passing through a long loop, it has time to cool. Adjustment is carried out through the manifold cabinet.
The volume of water in the circuit changes approximately as follows. As a rule, each circuit is connected to a comb and connected to the outdoor thermostat. A signal is given to the control device of each circuit according to which the stem extends. The flow-through channel changes its capacity.
In order to ensure that the system functions correctly it must be set up first, i.e. the best level for each circuit is determined.
However, it is possible that all efforts will come to nothing. Then it makes sense to check the quality of the vapour barrier. Take a piece of polyethylene, one meter by one meter, and stick it to the working floor with adhesive tape. Check the state of the foil after one day. If there is condensate on it or moisture has darkened the joints, it means that the vapour barrier is not installed properly and will have to be completely redone.
Among the devices that operate on electricity in the first place should be noted circulating pump and thermostatic regulator in the mixing unit. First you need to make sure that at least the power to these elements is. This is quite easy to do, using a simple indicating screwdriver or multimeter.
The work of the circulating pump is always accompanied by a slight noise, so you can determine its serviceability by the sound. You can determine the functionality of the thermostat:
- visually, because the turn of the stem during operation of the device should be visible;
- multimeter: check whether the power supply, then, after measuring the resistance on the terminals check them with the marks in the passport of the device.
The cause of malfunction in the work of the water floor can be: not enough insulation or boiler capacity, the presence of air in the system, and several other reasons, and each of them is eliminated according to certain rules.
You do not have a heated floor, but you want to make it? I have collected the 15 most common mistakes that are made when installing water underfloor heating. Because of these mistakes, thousands of people get heating systems that don’t work and many myths about underfloor heating arise.
The most common myth that it is impossible to heat a building with just heated floors. you have to put radiators. Because the floor heating is not capable of warming up the building.
In my opinion, the biggest mistake when installing any heating system is the lack of heat loss calculation of the building. When you do not count heat losses, you can say that the heating system is done by eye.
By eye you pick up radiators, usually they are chosen according to the size of the window or at the rate of 1 section per 10 square meters if you use sectional radiators. Warm floors are made by eye. Or they put radiators in rooms with underfloor heating “just in case”.
If you talk to a radiator installer, you should throw him out. You either end up with a non-working system, or you spend extra money to build a heating system. Because the installer hedged and stuffed extra heaters for your money.
Or vice versa. installed heating units of low power. In any case. it’s a loss.
I had a case like this. Before I became an expert on heating, I had a renovation done on my house. The installer who was supposed to do the heating came. We walk around the house. And I asked him: “How many radiators to put and what?”
He replied: “As many as you say, that’s how many we’ll put in.
I was embarrassed by that answer. I thought he should know better than me how much and what.
I also thought, “What a weird installer. He doesn’t know how to choose radiators.”We somehow decided how many and where to put them.
And the first winter after repairs my family and I were safely frozen in our house. Then I changed some radiators to more powerful ones, others I built up. In general, because of the incompetence of the installer solved a lot of headaches with the heating.
The underfloor heating had to be redone, too.
If you think it was just an inept installer I got, you’re wrong. There are a lot of such “masters”. And each of you is at risk of working with such a.
The first thing you should do BEFORE installing a heating system is to calculate the heat loss. Such calculation will show: whether it is enough power of heating floors for heating of a building or not; how much it is not enough, what power additional thermal devices are needed.
The calculation of heat loss will help to avoid many mistakes in the construction of the heating system.
The step of the underfloor heating pipe is done the way the installers are used to. Someone makes 20 cm. Someone makes 25 cm. There are cases when they do a step of the pipe and on 30 and 40 cm.
And this is the second common mistake, which follows from the first error. There are no calculations of heat losses, respectively it is not clear what power must be compensated. That’s why installers often do it in the wrong way.
The design of the underfloor heating, the pitch of the pipe are the design parameters. To make the step of the pipe more than 20 cm. is a big risk, you can get the temperature zebra. This is when the surface of the floor heats unevenly, forming streaks.
Third mistake: poor or no insulation under the floor heating pipes. Bare installers explain this by the fact that the heat rises up, so the pipe can be laid without insulation: directly on the concrete or on the ground. You can’t do that.
Concrete screed has a thermal conductivity of thirty! times higher than the air. So heat energy will, like everything in nature, tend to move to where there is the least resistance. So if you do the floor heating without insulation, most of the heat will dissipate into the structure or the ground.
Fourth error. Lack of expansion joints. dampeners. You know that when heated materials expand. And screed, in which are installed pipes water floor heating when heated will also expand. And if it has nowhere to expand, it will start to burst. The floor covering also begins to deform.
Fifth error: long contours of the pipe heating. Long contours create a large hydraulic resistance, which entails deterioration of the coolant circulation in the pipes of the underfloor heating.
This often leads to the installation of more powerful circulation pumps. And this means wear and tear of pipes, high costs of pump, increased power overruns. Or a system that does not work.
Sixth mistake: a large number of loops per manifold group. According to the building rules it is allowed to apply the distribution manifold to 8 loops, by the European standards to 12 loops. It is best not to make underfloor heating zones with more than 12 circuits. There is a high risk of getting a non-functional system.
The seventh mistake: wrong choice of circulation pump. A weak pump will not provide a normal circulation of the heat carrier in the system. Which leads to a lack of heating of part of the underfloor heating or the entire system. A high capacity pump is expensive and saves energy.
Eighth mistake: regulation is not properly implemented, there are no mixing sets, regulators. In this case, the floor heating will overheat. Often inexperienced installers install the system without regulators, connecting the floor heating directly to the high-temperature system.
The rooms with these “warm floors” are constantly hot and stuffy. Water based floor heating is a low-temperature system, where the surface temperature should not exceed 35 degrees. Which is achieved by using regulators, special valves and nodes.
Ninth error: made too thin or too thick screed over the pipes of water heat. With a thin screed, the floor heating will warm unevenly, with a thick screed, the floor heating will take a very long time to heat up and cool down. It’s uncomfortable and uncomfortable.
With heating is clear, turned on in the fall. half a day has passed, and the floor is heated.
And now imagine, on the street in the daytime 20 at night 0, the boiler is set to indoor temperature 22. In the morning, the sun shines through the windows, quickly heating your floor, the boiler is off, and the heat from the screed will come into the room for several more hours.
And your floor will turn from warm to hot. And in the evening or at night the opposite process happens: the house has begun to cool, the boiler is on, but the floor will be heated for several hours. And so every day.
Number ten on our chart. Wrong flooring. Here I will not comment on this particularly, I think many people understand that the higher the thermal conductivity of the coating, the better.
But the warm materials on a regular basis are not very suitable: wood or carpets. When calculating the heat loss and the system, again, you need to consider the materials of the floor covering, which is often overlooked.
Eleventh mistake: no air valves on the distribution manifolds. Air. the main enemy of any hydraulic heating system. Air must escape from the system, and if there is no way to release it, sooner or later airlocks will appear, which will block the circulation of coolant in the system. The result: a poorly functioning or non-functioning system.
Twelfth mistake: Incorrect connection of the floor heating pipe to the manifolds. There were in my practice, when the supply and return circuits are put on one collector. And then that circuit did not work.
Or break the sequence of connections of circuits on the manifold. For example, the flow of the circuit is connected to the first outlet of the supply manifold, and the return is connected to some third or fourth outlet on the return manifold.
Then there is a confusion in the adjustment of circuits. The heating system then does not work very well. And somehow to adjust its operation is very difficult.
The thirteenth mistake: Mistakes in the installation of water underfloor heating pipes or subsequent construction work. It can be a kink. Compression of the pipes during installation of the screed. Drilling pipes. Or clogging the pipe with sand and other materials. This includes anything that would interfere with the normal circulation of the heating fluid.
According to our statistics: in every second object someone will surely get into a pipe. That is, someone for some reason drills floors or makes some strokes. That some painter or electrician will put help on the floor heating pipes before the floor screed. In general, it is necessary to watch out for.
Fourteenth mistake: the connection in one manifold group of pipes of water underfloor heating and radiator pipes (with manifold wiring). The radiators and underfloor heating pipes have different resistance.
If you clamp on one manifold group of water underfloor heating and radiators, such a system is difficult to balance. In addition, radiators operate at a different temperature range: 60. 80 degrees, which is much higher than in the water underfloor heating. That’s why it’s better not to combine both systems on the same manifold group.
And the fifteenth mistake: using substandard materials.
While listing fifteen errors, I remembered another common one.
Error 6. This is when they do not do a pressure test of the heating system or water supply after installation. Any heating system should be checked more than once. If you build a house or make major repairs, pressure testing of heating and water supply is better to do several times.
Installed the system. do pressure testing. Installed drywall in the room where there are warm floors or in the bathrooms. did pressure testing.
Perform pre-finishing finishing works and proceed to the finishing works. do pressure testing. Believe me, it’s better to identify and eliminate faults with the heating or water supply before the tiles or laminate will be installed, wallpaper will be glued or walls will be painted.
That’s my list of mistakes. If you know any other mistakes when installing a water heated floor, write them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. Thousands of people will be grateful to you.
Underfloor heating. A couple of questions
I am hoping for some help in troubleshooting my UFH system.
Boiler. is a large combi boiler placed in the garage.
UFH heating throughout the house, on both floors.
There are two manifolds, one on the first floor, one on the second floor.
The downstairs manifold feeds the circuits as follows:
1.Living room at one end 2. Living room at the other end and hallway 3. Kitchen 4.2nd living room 5. Greenhouse. this is unused, as it is not used much in the winter, and it would take a fortune to heat it up to a normal room. temperature.
The downstairs toilet has all the pipes and the manifold is hidden in the wall between the toilet and the kitchen. So it doesn’t have its own circuit, a couple of circuits from the kitchen circuit go on one side before going out through the hallway into the kitchen.
The living room has a controller and a stat. The controller is set to 30° C, so when the program is on, the room temperature does not shut down the whole system.
The room stats are set to 21C. This stat controls the actuators for the two circuits of the living room.
Kitchen and reception 2 have the characteristics of the rooms respectively.
Greenhouse. Is a manual valve that is not working at the moment, so the manual valve is limiting the flow. It seems to work fine, as its not a warm floor like the house, but its definitely not cold tile like it would be without underfloor heating.
Since we lived there, I discovered one side of the kitchen floor, and the utility equipment (both. one circuit from the manifold) cooler, but this winter, although not yet cold, the power supply is just cold.
When we first moved in, I talked to the manufacturer and they helped me adjust the settings since we had some other issues (the upstairs water was too cold, the floors weren’t heating the rooms, and the pumps were set to 1 in the manifolds. ). They advised to install two or three on the manifold pumps, and install three upstairs. Downstairs I tried 2 and 3 and it didn’t work. Parameter 3 makes something in our walls resonate, unfortunately they installed the manifold on a rack, not on a brick or block support
Yesterday I noticed that even though the room stats were off and all the rooms were at temp, the pump was still running. Since I left the pump on rig 3 below, I could hear it.I double checked, and all the stats that were required to get a click, so they were all off in standby mode. This must mean that the lower system should not spread, as I understand it.
I turned the controller off, then turned the automatic mode back on, and the pump would not turn on unless I pushed any of the thermostats up as expected.
So, my main issue is determining the colder floor in the kitchen on one side, particularly at the far end of the loop on that side, and the power system (both one circuit.)
Additional question regarding pump behavior.
System diagram below. The greenhouse is not shown, these were plans left over from the previous. owners. As far as I know, this is correct. The plans from the 1st floor didn’t quite match the final house. Just because they moved the door, probably after the initial offer was made for heating, but the walls and t.д., Seems to be in the right place.
As mentioned above, one of the reasons why there is no circulation of the coolant can be a buildup of debris in the piping. To avoid this one hundred percent, again, don’t skimp on pennies and put a coarse filter in front of each unit:
Using a filter to catch the dirt is easier than fixing the effects of clogged piping or boiler heat exchangers.
Conclusion! We put coarse filters in front of every device in the heating system (pump, boiler, etc. д.) and in front of every plumbing fixture. Do NOT save pennies to “buy” problems. On the body of the filter knocked out arrows indicating the direction of movement of the coolant or water in the water supply.
The filter must be cleaned regularly. And it is very simple: close the valves before and after the filter. unscrew the plug (1) on the filter. remove and rinse under the tap sieve. put it back in place and screw the plug. Everything. Not like changing pipes:)
Towel rail is a multifunctional device, which can perform both the heating and drying functions, and serves as a design element. This is quite a reliable device, which determines the microclimate of the bathroom. However, nothing lasts forever and in some cases this device is capable of failing. Why this happens and what reasons can lead to the fact that the towel radiator ceases to perform its main function, namely. not warm, we will consider below.
Why won’t it heats or badly, poorly heats the floor heating elimination of the reasons with their own hands.
It often happens that after a good one or two seasons the electric underfloor heating suddenly stops heating. If you have it as an additional heating, then you can somehow postpone it.
Call a specialist, wait for the repair work. But when, it is the only and main source of heating in the house, is it possible to find the cause of failure with your own hands and fix it yourself?
If the floor heating at you all the same heats, but badly, too often turns off, and has not reached the desired temperature, the problem may initially lie in the wrong location of the temperature sensor.
It turns out that at the stage of installation, you placed it too close to the heating cable. Or it was displaced at the time of installation of flooring.
When the sensor according to the instructions is laid in the corrugation, you can try to solve the problem by pushing or pulling it out of the corrugation tube by 5cm.
Still a weak heating can be caused by a reduced voltage in the network at your apartment. Use a voltmeter to make measurements.
What voltage according to State Standard should be in your home, read the article “What is a voltage switch and whether it is always necessary in the apartment”.
When the electric floor heating does not turn on at all, you need to begin the search for faults with the thermostat. To begin with, remove it from the housing, so that all terminals were visible.
If you have an electronic type, you should never press the screen with your fingers when disassembling it, otherwise it might crack.
The first thing to do is to use a multimeter to check if you have 220 volts going to the thermo regulator? Maybe it is not the floor, but the problem is in the power cable.
Use a multimeter or voltmeter, not a simple meter that simply indicates phase presence. Phase can come, but zero will not. hence the inoperability of the entire system.
On most thermostats, all terminals are signed and labeled by the manufacturer:
For certain models, it is recommended that you observe strictly the “polarity” and don’t confuse the zero with the phase. Why?
To do this, simply disassemble the regulator and then you will see that the zero is directly through the track to the heating cable. The phase is disconnected via a relay. For example, this is the case with the RTC 70.26.
That is, if you mix up the “polarity”, the phase will always be on duty at your floor heating. Even when the circuit breaker is off! Be careful.
Of course there may be other terminal designations:
If there is voltage on the power terminals and it is normal, then be sure to double-check the reliability of the contacts in the other terminals.
It can happen that over time the contact weakens and the thin wire just falls out and stops contacting. In the end the underfloor heating software will display this as a “Failure” error. Breakage of a floor heating sensor.”
It seems that you have touched the thermostat or turned the breaker on and off, and it all works. Start looking for a problem somewhere deep, but it’s on the surface. bad contact in the terminal block.
When there are no problems with contacts, it is necessary to check the regulator and the sensor itself. How to do it without breaking the floor?
To do this, connect an ordinary light bulb with a socket to the terminals where the floor heating cable is connected. Turn on the voltage and start twisting the regulator, changing the temperature.
When the device is working and reaches a certain (room or below) temperature, there will be a click and the light bulb will light up.
Then use a hair dryer and start heating the spot in the floor where the sensor is installed.
If it really works, then in a couple of minutes (it depends on the thickness of the screed), the sensor should work and the light turns off. This means that the heating cable itself is probably damaged and it has nothing to do with the control apparatus.
But sometimes the devices themselves are also damaged. If when you turn on the floor heating the LED starts to blink and goes out, after which the cable is not heated of course, then you may have in the circuit “dried up” the capacitor.
This often occurs when using a floor heating for a long time from 5 years or more. When the green light diode blinks, it may indicate a breakage of the sensor.
The opposite is also true. The floor is heating but the thermostat does not turn off. That is, the red light is constantly lit. How to check what’s wrong?
Disconnect from the terminals of the thermistor wires and multimeter measure its resistance, comparing it with the data in the passport. And the characteristics may differ significantly from one manufacturer to another. Capacitor from 6kOhm to 100kOhm or more.
If you get a very high or infinite resistance. then the sensor is faulty. The thermostat thinks the floor is cold and heats it up to the maximum. Same thing happens when the wires to the sensor are broken.
No fuses are usually built into temperature controllers so don’t look for them inside. In fact, the function of the fuse in electric floor heating systems, should perform a circuit breaker RCD or diff.You have a circuit breaker in your fuse box.
Some models of temperature controllers (like the RTC 70) have a builtin on/off switch. It can be used to manually turn off the floor heating without running to the switchboard.
Many people mistakenly think that through it passes all the current to the heating cable. It doesn’t. This switch is only responsible for supplying power to the board, hence its small operating current of 6A.
Electronic models, as opposed to mechanical ones, should themselves help users in identifying faults. For example, if the temperature sensor is broken, they should have a non-typical value or error E5 on the screen.
In order to continue to use underfloor heating, despite the malfunction, some models allow it, you need to do the following:
Some models do this automatically, in other types you need to press the up and down buttons at the same time.
In mechanical brands, such as DeviReg 130, this method is also applicable. Take out the sensor cable and turn the adjustment wheel between positions 3-4.
In this mode you will be able to achieve an optimal comfort temperature of the floor heating. True, you will have them on all the time.
And if there is no obvious breakage, and the multimeter even shows some values, how to know that the thermistor is defective? You need to compare its nameplate data with what is actually determined by measurements.
For example, the factory thermostat data is 15 kOhm at t=25C.
And this is what the tester shows when measuring:
Here, of course, you need to consider the temperature coefficient. If it is negative, the resistance will drop as t rises from 25C. At lower temperatures, the resistance increases.
That is, it will be higher than 15kOhm. Here is the result of measuring the same sensor which worked at 20C: You can find quality temperature controllers, temperature sensors and other accessories from leading companies and the current of underfloor heating today here.
If you have checked the sensor, thermostat, all the contacts and no remarks on their work, and the floor is still not warm, then you are left to look for damage in the heating cable.
You can diagnose a clear short circuit with a simple multimeter. But in order to establish its exact location, without special expensive devices, alas, you can’t do nothing.
At the beginning of the diagnostics, use a tester to check the resistance between the conductors of the cable. It should be within the factory data. from 11 to 700 ohms, depending on the length.
So you should always keep the heating cables datasheets. Stick labels from cable products there, write down the initial insulation resistance and core resistance readings.
Then, if there are problems, it will be easy to determine what kind of cable is laid, its length, the factory resistance. It also doesn’t hurt to take a picture or a sketch of the laying areas.
If there is no short circuit between the cores, it means that the problem is bad insulation, go further. Check the resistance, again with a tester, between the core and the shield.
Here the readings should tend to infinity. or the one on the left side on the screen of the clamp meter should be displayed. If the reading is zero, everything is clear. the core is obviously shorted to the screen somewhere.
But if the multimeter shows a resistance of several hundred ohms or even kohms, then connect a megohmmeter at 2500V and apply an increased voltage between the braid and the heating core.
And if you have at the same time the insulation resistance will fall to zero, it says that the cable is broken and you need to look for the place of damage.
And at lower voltages of 500V or 1000V you won’t even know it.
For new heating cables from quality manufacturers (Devi, Veria, etc.).) Resistance must be at least 1 ohm at 2.5 kV.
For example, heating mats are tested by manufacturers at the factory with a voltage of 3 kV with immersion in water.
To find the exact location of the fault, you need to have specialized devices:
Heating cable malfunction
We have already checked the thermostat and the sensor of the floor heating, but the problem is not yet found? Let’s start testing the heating cable. In order to determine the load placed on the heating cable, it is necessary to measure its resistance. Compare the obtained data with the values specified in the technical passport of the device.
We can determine the cause of malfunction of the underfloor heating based on the meter’s readings. Readings below the norm indicate that the outer sheath of the heating cable is damaged. If the resistance tends to zero, the cause is mechanical damage to the cable or a burnout of the connection socket. Unstable values indicate the presence of water under the shell. If the multimeter shows a sign “infinity”, the problem is in the burnout or breakage of the heating element located in the coupling of the device.
After carrying out diagnostics and identifying malfunction of the heating system you can fix it yourself, or resort to the help of professionals. But you should always consider that finding a damaged heating cable in the screed is only possible with special equipment. In the case of such a situation, we advise you to contact the service center, whose masters will repair the heating cable with minimal damage to your flooring.
Get advice, more information about products and buy electric floor heating in our online store, by phone 8.0 or in one of the stores in your city.
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