What to do if the washing machine pump is noisy
Absolutely silent washing machines do not happen. even after the correct installation this technique will publish certain sounds. And we will not speak about them at all, but about those sounds that appear in operation of the SM quite suddenly. Especially often the owners of washing machines are worried about the noise of the drain pump, which manifests itself during the wringing of the laundry.
Let’s understand why the washing machine pump is noisy and how to eliminate the hum with your own hands.
When the pump needs to be diagnosed?
Before disassembling the machine and even more so to carry out the replacement of parts, make sure that the cause of the problem in the pump. Pay attention to external signs, malfunctions in the washing machine (CMA).
- The operation of the machine is blocked, the display shows an error code. The deciphering indicates the problems of the drainage circuit.
- The technique has stopped with a full tank of water in the middle of a cycle.
- The pump does not turn off. The problem may lie in the control triac of the electronic module.
- Failures in operation: water from the tank does not go out regularly.
So, the signs indicate a malfunction. It is necessary to carry out diagnostics of the part. But how to get to it? The disassembly process is different for different brands of washing machines.
Where is the pump?
All depends on the model of the machine. So, in “Samsung“, “Ariston”, Whirpool, LG units there is no bottom, so to disassemble the pumping system it is enough to open access to the bottom. To do this, you will have to lay the machine on its side or on the back wall.
The circulation pump is often located next to the drain pump.
The models of German manufacturers Bosch and Siemens have an expensive part. Access to it is complicated by the need to remove the front wall.
Through the back wall, the replacement is carried out in the SM Electrolux and Zanussi.
Having determined the location of the part, proceed to disassembly and replacement.
Repair of the pump of a washing machine with your own hands
If after checking and cleaning the impeller the problem is not solved, then it is more serious and it will be necessary to disassemble the pump and make a more detailed inspection.
At heavy loads, the pump is protected by fuses, which are on the winding of the part and disconnected. When the temperature returns to normal the contacts are reestablished.
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First you need to disconnect the pump from the volute. In general, there are two types of fixing: just screws and screwless (you only need to turn the pump counterclockwise). At this stage you can find out if the impeller rotates on the shaft. In normal operation it should rotate with small delays, the so-called jumps. This is due to the action of the magnet rotating in the coil. If it is difficult to turn and there is no debris, then you will have to completely disassemble the part and see if it is possible to repair the impeller of the washing machine pump.
There is a catch on both sides of the motor housing which should be unhooked with a screwdriver. This is if your machine has a collapsible motor, but there are non-collapsible types. At first glance it is impossible to disassemble it, but if you know some nuances, you can.
To help is a construction hair dryer, which should warm the long part of the part, the so-called shank by a small temperature. After heating the shank, remove the cross with the magnet from the body. Dirt usually accumulates on the magnet and where it was pulled out. After cleaning, the magnet itself is removed. Then you will see the bearing, which is also cleaned and lubricated. After these procedures, the part is reassembled. There is a ring under the lobes that should fit snugly into place. It may be necessary to replace the packing.
Because of this there is friction between the volute and the impeller, which causes malfunction and repair of pumps of washing equipment. The problem can be solved by replacing the bearings. In an emergency case, when there is no possibility to buy a new part, and washing can not wait, will save only the shortening of the blade no more than 2 mm. This is done with a sharp knife.
After repair, the housing is installed in the coil and fixed. This is where troubleshooting the pump on your own ends.
Signs and causes of malfunction
If the washing machine constantly heats or boils water, parts are worn out. How to spot it:
- With a slight overheating (by 10-20 ° C), things can fade, sit even on the 30-degree mode.
- When boiling, you may notice that steam is coming from behind the door. The walls of the machine will be hot.
What to do. Before looking for the cause of the problem, interrupt the washing program, unplug the appliance from the mains. Try to run the drain mode: if the water is very hot, it is better to wait a few hours for it to cool down. Boiling water can damage the hoses and spigots of the washing machine.
If the drain doesn’t start, wait for it to cool down and run it through the drain filter.
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When the tank is unloaded, you can begin to diagnose. For this, it is important to understand the principle of heating in the washing machine Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux and other brands.
How the water heats up in the washing machine
As soon as the tank is filled, the machine begins heating:
- The control board signals to the heating element to start.
- As soon as the temperature reaches a predetermined level, the thermistor informs the module about it.
- Control element tells the heating element to stop working.
If one of the three parts is broken or a malfunction in their work, the washer begins to boil water. Another reason could be a burned out wire.
Test of the heating element
First, disconnect the automatic washing machine from the power supply and turn off the water tap. Next, we provide free access to the heater and, if necessary, remove the back wall or bottom. Next we take a multimeter and start testing.
- We take a picture of the heating element to fix the connected wiring and avoid mistakes in future installation.
- Disconnect all connected wires.
- Adjust the multimeter to the resistance measurement and set the selector to 200 ohms.
- Connecting the probes to the contacts.
- Evaluate the received result.
A functioning heater always shows a fixed value of 26.8 Ohm. Small deviations from the normal range are possible within.5. If the screen shows one, then there is a break in the line inside the heating element and the part needs to be replaced. When the tester shows “0” or any other number less than 1 it is a short circuit, and the element is burned out.
Malfunctions with the heater can be caused by voltage fluctuations in the mains and hard water with plenty of impurities.
Often the resistance test is not enough, because if it is not faulty externally the dielectric inside can go to the body and provoke a leakage current. To ensure the safe operation of the automatic gas burner control it is recommended to test the heating element for breakdowns. It is enough to switch on the tester in buzzer mode, put one probe to the contact and put the second one to the body of multimeter. If there is no shrill noise, all is fine. Otherwise it is necessary to urgently replace the part and not to use the machine until the repair is completed.
Causes and symptoms of a defect
How to make sure that the pump in the washing machine does not work? Inspect and rule out other parts malfunction. First, pay attention to the external signs of failure:
- Error code appears on the display of the washing machine. After reading its meaning, you understand that the cause is a faulty pump or drainage system.
- Washing cycle proceeds as usual, but before draining the machine stops with a full tank of water.
- The pump doesn’t turn on at all.
- The pump operates continuously without stopping.
- Water drains very slowly.
- Drainage occurs intermittently, not after every wash.
Start looking for the cause of the malfunction with a simple check:
- Ensure that the spin cycle is active. If the “Delicate or Hand wash” programme has been selected, the automatic spin cycle is ended. Select a different program or increase the spin speed.
- Inspect the drain hose. It should be level, not higher than the tank level. If it is not kinked, it is advisable to disconnect the hose and check for blockage. Turn on the drain mode by directing the hose into the sink. If the water flows out normally, the drain hose may be clogged.
If you are sure that the mode is set correctly, you need to check the drain.
- Open the small hatch under the front panel.
- Place a container, unscrew the drain filter.
- Drain the water and clean the filter of debris.
- Shine a light into the housing opening where the filter was.
- Inspect the pump impeller. Select the spin and see if the impeller rotates or not.
If the impeller is still in place, check the pump. Inspect the drainpipe at the same time.
Causes and Signs of a Washing Machine Pump Breakdown
You can determine the malfunction of the drainage path by external signs. But how do you know if it is the pump that is broken? Often helps to understand the fault code. In case of a malfunction, the display shows symbols that indicate the cause of the work stoppage.
But if there is no code on the screen, then pay attention to such signs:
- Drain pump does not turn on, no sound of operation can be heard. It could be a pump malfunction. Foreign objects (threads, hair) are often wound around the impeller, causing it to jam. The pump port may also be clogged with debris. The most unpleasant breakdown. burned windings. Then the whole assembly will have to be replaced.
- The pump does not turn off, it is constantly running. Problems with pressostat or control module. The whole circuit is interconnected: if the pressostat gives an incorrect reading of the amount of liquid on the board, then the pump will run constantly, pumping out water. It can also be caused by a circuit or triac malfunction.
- Washing machine won’t empty, leakage occurs. If the device leaks, it means that the connections of the pipe and hose are leaking or the pump housing is damaged.
- The liquid escapes from the tank very slowly. Nipple, hose, sewer is clogged. Needs cleaning.
To fix the damage you will need to disassemble the machine and inspect the nodes and parts.
The heating of the power cord and plug
The main reason for heating. is the incompatibility of the plug and socket. Do not try to squeeze the new style plug into the Soviet socket, since the contact is incomplete, there is a strong warming. Do not try to plug many high-powered devices into the same outlet. The maximum power rating of the plug is always written on the sockets.
The solution is simple: you must find a compatible socket. For a washing machine, the socket must be individual.
There are many reasons for overheating of the washing machine, but not everyone is able to diagnose and eliminate them. Our specialists repair equipment of well-known manufacturers:
Each model, even of the same manufacturer, has its own features and nuances. By contacting us, you save time and nerves, and your machine will please you for many years.
To understand the causes of overheating of the washing machine will help