Tefal steam generator no water light blinks

Tap water:The appliance is designed to use tap water. If the water is too hard (harder than 6 °F), mix tap water and distilled water (sold in stores) in a 50/50 ratio.In some regions near the sea, the water has high m salt. Use only distilled water in this case.

Softener:There are several types of softeners and most can be used for the water in the steam generator. But some softeners, especially those that contain chemicals such as salt, can cause white or brown stains, especially with filter pitchers.If you encounter such a problem, we recommend using untreated tap or bottled water.

Remember:Never use rain water, pure demineralized water or pure distilled water from stores, or water with additives (such as starch, perfume, or water from appliances). These additives can affect the steam properties and at high temperatures the steam generator will build up a scale which can stain the laundry and cause premature appliance aging.

Checking your electric heater

The heating element in modern models is a reliable unit and rarely breaks down. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It’s easier to buy a new iron. But first make sure that the problem is with the heating element.

In all models heater contacts are soldered to device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the light is on but the iron is not heating, then the problem is with the heating element.

In some models, the fuse is included in one circuit of the heater, and the regulator in the other. If the fuse is faulty, you can make a false “diagnosis”, suspecting the fault of the heating element. To find out the exact cause of the appliance failure, you need to disassemble it completely.

A steam generator from any manufacturer, Tefal, Bosch or Philips, consists of three main parts: the electronic control unit, the stand, aka the station, and the iron. Special attachments are also included in the delivery set. The boiler heats the water, steam is generated which flows to the iron through a special hose, at the base of which there is a peoria. Steam escaping from the holes treats the material, smoothing out any creases.

The density and size of the garments do not affect the quality of their treatment: bed sheets, fabrics requiring delicate treatment. such as silk, as well as jeans, suits made of half-wool material or synthetics can be treated at the same time.

A household steam generator station, such as Tefal, has a number of differences from a steam iron from the same manufacturer:

  • First, the size. it is much bulkier and takes up a lot of space;
  • Secondly, the water is poured into a separate container of the boiler and there it is heated until steam is formed;
  • Thirdly, the steam is not wet, but dry with a temperature of about 160 degrees;
  • the clothes and laundry are treated without touching them with a device in the form of an iron, but only with steam, so you can not fear for the integrity of things.

The diagram below shows a typical Tefal steam generator station.

Scale or lime scale

Many manufacturers, in their product advertisements, indicate the ability to pour plain tap water into the boiler. This option is available in certain regions where the tap water has a low salt content. Even in these conditions, limescale builds up on the walls of the boiler and the steam outlet pipe over time and prevents the steam generator from operating correctly.

Most devices, according to the instructions, should be filled with distilled or filtered water, but most housewives do not follow this recommendation. So there comes a time when the channels for steam passage are clogged with limescale or alkaline plaque and steam can not pass through them. To solve the problem of correcting the situation is simple. To do this, the steamer is cleaned of scale with special industrial or folk remedies.

Will cope and advertised “Calgon” and a simple citric acid. the choice is up to the mistress of the steam generator. The product is placed in the boiler, purified or distilled water is poured into it. By turning on the device, the mixture cleans the surfaces of the channels and the walls of the tank. Thus, the simplest treatment of the channels from scale is made. After that, all parts are rinsed with water and the appliance is ready for use.

Large alkaline deposits may require contacting a service center for disassembly and flushing.

Deformation of the coating of internal surfaces of the steam generator

It is necessary to apply to specialists in case of crumbling of surface layer of coating, internal part of boiler and channels. Such breakage leads to clogging of steam outlet channels. In this case, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. It is required to disassemble the steam generator and clean the boiler and ducts from particles. It may be necessary to replace expensive parts, in this case, it is more advantageous to buy a new device or return the device if it is under warranty. But you should not buy an affordable and unreliable Chinese steam converter again and repeatedly face the same problem.

If the steam generator does not supply steam. it is necessary to check contacts and entire circuit of electronic control.

If the device works, but steam is not coming, in this case, if you do not have professional skills, straight to the professionals. Appliance functions. Then steam stops flowing at high water temperature all at once. It is possible to solve the problem, but it will require disassembly of the equipment case and multimeter testing of the whole electrical network. Probably just a burned-out contact, but this is the simplest variant of failure.

Read also: Brushing machine with their own hands drawings

serious problems will arise if the generator electronics and individual control units fail. Such breakage will require financial expenses and expertise. The thermostat, the pump, the other parts and devices of the generator can malfunction.

The smell of burnt wiring will require discontinuing the operation of the generator and contacting a repair shop.

On the forums you can find more extravagant, but, according to consumer reviews, effective methods to combat the failure of the steam generator. To do this, plug the non-functioning device into the network and press the power button. Now, unplug the plug from the socket without turning off the button. Inserting the plug again allows steam to form in the generator. The method is not scientific, but people write that effective.

some tips to help steam generator buyers.

Going to the store, every buyer should understand that the cheaper equipment can not be qualitative and durable. Cheaper materials and components can lead to the rapid replacement of a broken steam generator. It is better to buy products from reputable manufacturers.

Always pour distilled water into the boiler, such care should prevent the formation of alkaline scaling. At the first signs of serious failure, the device must be unplugged and left to cool. You should not try to fix a serious failure yourself, it will lead to unnecessary parts after reassembly and more serious problems. Replace the limescale cartridges, immediately after the alarm lights up.

By choosing a reliable, high-quality steam generator and service it responsibly, you increase the trouble-free operation of the appliance.

Clean the inside and outside of the iron periodically:

In this material you will learn 10 super-efficient ways to clean your iron at home using products that are always on hand and cost mere pennies.

Error table

  • You need to make sure that the tank is not filled more than 3/4 of the total volume;
  • Wait until the steam generator is fully warmed up and turn the regulator to the desired position (activate the steam extraction mode).

Tefal GV8975 failure water sensor (steam generator)

  • Steam generator is off;
  • the steam mode is not unlocked;
  • Scale builds up in ducts or steam cistern.
  • Turn on the steam generator;
  • Unblock steam supply;
  • Descale the cistern with a special agent.
  • Lack of water in the tank;
  • Improper connection of the mains cable or fuse reaction.
  • Check that there is water in the tank;
  • Check that the mains cable and fuse are connected correctly.


There are several common causes of Carher Steam Generator malfunctions. Proper diagnostics can help to deal with the failure yourself, without resorting to service centers.

Scale or lime scale

In spite of numerous recommendations of the manufacturers, which point out the necessity of using only distilled water in steam generators, many buyers do not always follow the instructions. Most often the boiler is filled with tap water, which, having a hard composition and a high level of salinity, leads to the formation of scale on the walls and inside the steam outlet tube. As a result, the ducts are covered with alkaline plaque to the extent that they cease to pass steam.

Deformation of the coating of internal surfaces

One of the possible causes of malfunction of the steam generator can be a crumbling of the upper layer of coating inside the boiler itself or its channels, which in turn leads to a clogging and inability to escape the steam. Most often this problem is found in unreliable Chinese counterparts and here you will need to disassemble the steam vacuum cleaner “Karcher” for cleaning.

Mechanical damage

Some of the most common causes of steamer failure:

  • Broken steam hose or nozzle;
  • Cracks in the tank, causing a breach of the seal;
  • Wear of the gaskets;
  • Occurrence of rack or iron fractures.

Electronics malfunction

Usually such a failure is a consequence of mechanical damage to the tank. Steam will begin to build up on electronic circuit boards, the display, or buttons as sealing fails. To avoid this, periodically check that the steam is not escaping from the steam hose.

Heater element breakage

The heating element is the main component of the steam heater, which produces steam from the poured water. The main causes of failure could be poor fluid quality, the end of life of the thermostat tablet, constant voltage fluctuations, or the initial poor quality of the device.

Scale or lime scale

Many manufacturers in the advertising of their products indicate the possibility of filling the boiler with plain tap water. This option is available in some regions where tap water has low salt. But even in these conditions, over time, deposits form on the walls of the boiler and on the steam outlet pipe, interfering with the normal operation of the steam generator.

According to the instructions, most devices should be filled with distilled or filtered water, but most housewives do not follow this recommendation. Therefore, there comes a time when the channels for the passage of steam are blocked by scale or alkaline deposits, and steam cannot pass through them. The solution to the problem of correcting the situation is simple. For this purpose, the steamer is cleaned from scale with special industrial or folk remedies.

The advertised “Calgon” and simple citric acid will also do the trick. The choice is up to the steam generator aficionados. The product is placed in the boiler, purified or distilled water is poured. Turning on the device, the mixture cleans the surfaces of the ducts and the walls of the vessel. This is the simplest way to treat the ducts from the ladder. All parts are then rinsed with water and the appliance is ready for use.

A large accumulation of alkaline deposits may require an appeal to a service center for disassembly and washing of parts.

Deformation of the coating on the internal surfaces of the steam generator

Contact a specialist in the case of crumbling of the surface layer of coating, the interior of the boiler and ducts. This failure results in clogging of the steam exhaust ducts. In this case it is better to entrust the work to specialists. You will need to disassemble the steam generator and clean particles from the boiler and ducts. It may be necessary to replace expensive parts, in which case it is more advantageous to buy a new device or return the device if it is under warranty. But you should not buy a cheap and unreliable Chinese steam converter again and face the same problem.

If the steam generator is not supplying steam, the contacts and the entire electronic control circuitry must be checked.

If the device is working but there is no steam, in this case with the lack of professional skills there is a direct route to the professionals. The machine is working. Then steam stops flowing at once, at high water temperature. You can solve the problem, but you have to disassemble the body of the equipment and multimeter to dial the entire electrical network. Maybe the contact is just blown, but that’s the easiest way to break.

serious problems occur when the generator electronics and individual control units fail. Such a breakdown will require financial costs and experience. Thermostat, pump, other generator parts and devices may not work.

Smell of burning cables will require stopping the steam generator and contacting a repair shop.

You can find more extravagant methods on the forums, but according to consumer feedback, to combat the failure of the steam generator. To do this, the inoperative device is plugged in and the power button is pressed. Now let’s pull the plug out of the socket without turning off the button. If you reinsert the plug into the socket, the generator may produce steam. The method is unscientific, but people write that it is effective.

A few tips to help steam generator buyers.

Going to the store, every buyer should understand that the cheapest equipment can not be of high quality and durability. Cheaper materials and components can lead to the rapid replacement of a broken alternator steam generator. It is best to buy products from trusted manufacturers.

Always fill the boiler with distilled water to prevent alkaline deposits from forming. At the first signs of serious failure, the device must be unplugged and allowed to cool down. Don’t try to fix a serious breakdown yourself this will lead to unnecessary parts after reassembly and more serious problems. Replace the decalcification cartridges as soon as the indicator light comes on.

By choosing a reliable quality steam generator and responsibly servicing it, you increase the trouble-free lifetime of the device.

Reasons why the steam generator sprays water instead of steam

Any steam generator owner can have such a problem, as the water leaks from the device. If there is no possibility to go to the specialists, you can make an attempt to deal with this malfunction at home.

Before looking into the causes of failure, it is worth learning how a steam generator works.

Repairing the Tefal GV8120 Steam Generator.

As I promised, now I will tell you how you can descale the steam generator, and not knowing a few little things, cause him much more damage than good.

So. Let’s look at the example of the Tefal GV8120 steam generator.

Which we tried to kill with citric acid (or decalcifier containing citric acid).

Having opened this “wig”, I saw everything, and its entire history became clear as day. Guys, apparently, watched all sorts of online tips, such as “How to easily get rid of limescale” and stuffed the machine full program. But let’s break it down one by one. First, the principle of operation, then the composition and purpose of the nodes, and then about the wrong and correct use of tips.

After we filled the tank with water, plugged the device in and pressed the button “On/Off”.”, We start simultaneous heating of the iron soleplate (no picture, because it is clear) and heating of the boiler. The iron will be heated to its temperature value set manually by the thermostat which is on the iron itself (the one for cotton, linen, etc.) and the boiler heats to its temperature set by the manufacturer’s program or by the thermostat (temperature limiter) which limits the heating temperature (usually the regulation is automatic without human intervention).

The pump at this time is waiting for the command to turn on the water injection into the boiler through the heat-resistant armored tube (the tube in the braid) and the pump will turn on when the temperature in the boiler reaches a certain value (I do not remember exactly, but not less than 100 degrees). Once the water in the boiler heats up to a working temperature value, the indicator of readiness of steam lights up (this indicator is on all steam generators, so we will not dwell on it separately) and then the steam button on the iron can be activated (until the steam is ready the button usually does not work). Then when we start ironing and press the steam button on the iron, the solenoid valve on the boiler opens. It is also called a steam valve, the steam / liquid mixture (which turns into water in the boiler) goes through the hose to the soleplate of the iron, where this mixture boils over and turns into steam (the soleplate of the iron heats up) and then, when the system comes to working mode, the steam generator maintains the boiler temperature, and the iron heater always works as an independent device.

At a certain temperature change on the boiler, which the electronic control module learns from the temperature sensor, the pump is activated to add water to the system.

Now separately about the functional nodes:

Water tank (water tank). a container with two holes, one of which serves for water intake by the pump, and the other for balancing the pressure of water pumped into the boiler (return to the tank). Picture did not make, because it is all written about the tank can be seen without disassembly.

Pump. serves to pump water into the boiler (of course)).

Drainage connection. with a bend for pressurizing water in the boiler, and with a drain screw (valve) for scale removal. I will tell you how to clean it below. So, since both discharge and return are at the discharge outlet of the pump, it makes sense that there is a balancing check valve at their branching.

The balancing three-way check valve (I called it a check valve in the picture). when the pump turns on, it opens a spring-loaded rubber stopper in the valve, which allows the water to flow under pressure into the boiler and partially back into the tank. And when the pump is switched off and there is pressure in the boiler then besides the spring there is pressure from the boiler which does not let the steam / liquid mixture back to the pump.

Boiler. the purpose is clear. Note only that in this type of steam generators, the resulting steam / liquid mixture is under pressure and also under pressure comes out through the iron, unlike steam generators such as “kettle”, where there is direct water boiling (an example here).

TEN (Electric Tubular Heater). here it is necessary to notice that in our case the heating element goes a separate element (is not one detail with a boiler) and is screwed from below with nuts to studs of a boiler that gives the chance to replace easily either a heating element or a boiler, if something from them will fail, independently from each other.

Thermo (temperature sensor). serves to transmit the readings (its resistance depending on the temperature) to the electronic module. The electronics, in its turn, decides which device to turn on or off depending on the readings taken from the sensor.

Temperature limiter (also known as thermostat or thermal switch or thermic). There is a bimetallic plate and a group (pair) of contacts inside. When the rated temperature is reached (it is indicated on the body of the device) the plate deforms and breaks the contact. When the temperature drops, the plate returns to its initial state and the contact is restored. This is called a Normally Closed Contact (abbreviated as NO contact). NC. In Russian or Normal Close. NC in English). It controls the limiting heating of the boiler and has nothing to do with the above thermostat circuit, it cuts off the heating element power supply circuit. Our unit has a thermostat for 200 degrees Celsius. C, but in general, different manufacturers and models of wigs can be found in the range of 170-210 degrees, depending on the design.

Thermal fuse. If at any time krank our thermic, for example stuck and does not turn off, then to avoid the unwanted melting and burning parts of the device, and just overheating the heating element, boiler, our thermal fuse will burn out and save everyone else. Trips once, after which it must be replaced with a new one.

Steam valve (solenoid valve, solenoid valve). consists of electromagnetic coil, solenoid core with spring and emergency pressure relief valve. Usually the last (pressure relief valve) is absent in standard valves, but manufacturers “Tefalek” apparently decided that it is more convenient to set it on the steam valve. Well, maybe it makes sense, but we don’t care where they put it.

Picture shows steam valve with solenoid coil removed. If you unscrew the steel thingy, the threaded one, you will see the solenoid internals.

In the normal state the valve is closed, and when the coil is energized (220V AC), it retracts the core, and it opens the passage for our steam-liquid mixture, which comes into the steam chamber of the iron soleplate through the connected hose. Well, as soon as we remove the voltage from the coil, the core, under the action of the spring, returns to its original position and closes the valve passage again. The valve is closed again.

And a few words about the pressure relief valve. The reset switch is triggered in the case of excessive pressure in the boiler, but it almost never comes to this. To trip the reset element, the thermostat and the thermal fuse must both be out of order and stuck, so that the boiling process in the boiler is continuous, causing a continual rise in pressure without any limitation. This is possible only if their contact groups will stick in a closed state, which can happen when there is current in the circuit of the boiler, which well exceeds the current limit on the contacts (lightning or sober power engineers at the substation switched two phases into the socket). Standard working pressure is usually 2.5-3.5 bar, not higher. Accordingly, the pressure relief valve must be triggered at somewhere between 4 and 4.5 bar.

I didn’t do a picture of the iron. What’s there to look at? An iron is like an iron.

So. We take our wild mixture of water and limoncello and fill the tank. We turn on the wig and wait for the indicator of readiness of steam to light up. All this time we’ve been screwing up the system. The whole secret is that the acid tends to react with metals, and simply put, destroys some of them. First of all, the citric acid solution goes into the pump first. But the pump has elements inside that are made of all sorts of metals. And we don’t know which ones until we take it apart. Although in fact the short-term exposure, even a warm solution of acid on the pump will not affect its condition very much. Let’s move on for now. The solution flows through the three-way check valve into the boiler. It is made of stainless steel and it would seem that everything is fine, but the steam valve is made of brass and the drain connection (also intake) is also made of brass. And this is brass:

And if we drop a brass part into the lemonade solution, we will notice that it starts to turn red, i.e. it becomes the color of copper, which means that acid eats other metals (this is not even chemistry, but the usual logic). But this is half the trouble and we can live with it for now. The most interesting thing starts when you heat up )). It seems that in the very elementary physics course at school, there is a process called diffusion. It also says that the diffusion process accelerates as the temperature rises. And then there is the pressure in the boiler (we are still in the boiler and the steam button is not pressed))). Pressure with an acid solution and a temperature of 200 degrees C is waaa-zchingly paranormal works wonders. Let’s look at the picture.

Where, pardon my French, this shit comes from?

And this is how the acid solution leaked through the sealed threaded connection between the boiler and the fitting. And it’s gonna have to be repacked and sealed. All right ))) Let’s just kill the surviving steam valve and get this whole mockery thing over with. You push the button. И. Bingooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo sleep tomorrow to the service))

Now watch the consequences and disassemble and look into the sleeve of the steam valve:

You can’t call it clean on the inside. And we look at the stuffing itself.

It looks like the core is rusty and muddy. Well actually this fouling prevents it from moving freely inside the valve liner and it just doesn’t move when you press the steam button.

Now the SECRET of cleaning with lemon. You can actually clean the boiler, the pump and the steam valve with it. But ONLY when the machine is turned off and each part separately. For example, disassembled the steam valve, and there’s a core in the scale, took it out, threw it in an acid solution (the core of stainless steel or steel), cleaned, rinsed with water, put it back (but usually change the steam valve). I want to clean the boiler? We unscrewed the drain screw, poured a solution of lemon juice (even hot) through the connector, screwed the screw, shook a little, waited an hour or two, removed the lemon juice, flushed the boiler, closed. Limescale in the Pot? Also pour the solution and watch. You have to clean everything separately and not run liquor through the system.

Also some people try to clean the system from scale using not citric acid but Coca-Cola or Domestos. And then, too, in the repair shop)).

And in conclusion I will reveal another secret to cleaning wigs of this type. This is a secret I learned from the user manual for one of these steam generators. The manufacturers begged me tearfully not to tell this secret to anybody.) Ok, I will tell you. Just a whisper.

unscrew the drain screw. Pour into the boiler 0,5. 0.7 liter of water (regular tap water). We close the water heater. Pour water into the tank. Turning on the steam generator. We set the boiler to maximum mode and the iron to the lowest temperature mode, at which there is some steam, or no steam at all. Wait until the readiness indicator light turns on. Then we wait another 5 minutes and after that, place the iron over the sink or basin and press the steam button. Without releasing the button, waiting for the boiling water to come out of the sole of the iron, dirty at first and then clean. If it is clean. That means the cleaning is done. Allow the wig to cool and drain the boiler. Use.

This unit was repaired with restoration of: the steam valve solenoid, three-way check valve, and re-packing the threaded connections on the boiler.

If there is something I forgot to write about, I will write in future posts. But that’s about it

The most widespread case is a situation when the light bulb of your iron when plugged in doesn’t light up and the iron itself doesn’t get warm at all. This indicates a breakage of the power cord. As a rule, the breakage occurs at the point of its fastening to the case.

To confirm this diagnosis, remove the back of the iron. Also, check the integrity of the cord with a tester. Use a light bulb and a battery as a simple tester. Connect the light bulb to the existing battery through the strands of the cable. If the indicator light is not lit when properly connected, then the fault lies within the cord. Shorten the cord where it attaches to the casing, and recheck for proper operation.

On some modern models, the cause may be a blown fuse. Fuses come in many forms. Single versions are designed to work only once. Fuses capable of multiple on/off operation are more common in more advanced irons.

You can determine the state of the fuse with a tester. If the iron light bulb does not light, the fuse could be the culprit. Can be repaired by removing the fuse and shorting this portion of the circuit.

Light bulb lights up but the iron is not heating.

This situation does not occur very often. It is most likely due to a blown heating element. If it does burn out, it’s easier to buy a new iron.

In almost all devices the leads of the heating element are connected in parallel with the indicator light. If the connecting elements are not damaged and the light bulb is on, but the iron does not want to warm up, it means that the heating element is defective.

Faulty thermostats

The purpose of the thermostat is to maintain the temperature of the soleplate within the specified limits.

To look at the thermostat you need to partially disassemble the iron. To do this you need to remove the plastic structure of the housing. In a cold state the contacts of the thermostat should be closed. If you have a tester, it is better to wire the contacts. Otherwise you can simply clean the contacts with fine sandpaper. After the repair it is necessary to check the operation of the iron.

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