The air conditioner does not work: frequent problems of air conditioners
Air conditioning systems are used at the household level very widely. And every year, the number of home appliances that guarantee comfort is only increasing. In general, a domestic air conditioner works properly and really helps to create more comfortable conditions. But during exploitation, the defects of air conditioners from time to time remind, that this technique is not perfect up to the end. Accordingly, we have to deal with the defects that disrupt the normal operation of the devices. So let’s consider the frequently occurring malfunctions and the methods of elimination.
The fan of the outside air conditioner unit does not turn on
The fan of the outdoor air conditioner unit does not turn on
The outside unit of air conditioner does not start: what to do?
Split-system is a complex, determinate structure, where each block is connected with other.
One of the hardest breakdowns is the external sector, which usually remains out of the user’s sight.
In this article you will learn what causes its breakdown.
Why the air conditioner is not working. the main reasons
Greetings to all visitors and constant visitors of our portal! Your air conditioner does not turn on? Then I will tell you some of the main causes of this problem. You won’t even need to call a handyman to solve some of them, as there are very simple cases.
In this article, for not to make a mistake, we will not consider the cases connected with fee malfunction and obviously needing repair (when conditioner works some time and then turns off; it is working, but it is not cold; it gives a strange sound and other malfunctions). And today we are going to discuss one concrete case. when when you press the button on the remote control, the conditioner does not react in any way. Certainly, for most of specialists the situations, considered today, are elementary.
For the beginning, I think it will be correct to separate the problem of “non-activation” of an air conditioner in two cases:
- When an air conditioner is not switched on right after installation;
- When an air conditioner is already used, but some moment it does not switch on; or.
In the first situation, the decision of such question, most likely, will be laid on the shoulders of the installers themselves. Well, of course it does! Of course they will have to find the reason and fix it. And in the second case solution of a problem can be useful for a user (if, of course, the situation is very simple and you do not want to call specialists).
Split-systems are becoming more and more popular day by day. They help to steadily keep the optimal temperature in the house, they are reasonably priced and can be used in any season. The system is not so often breaks, but as the similar devices are still considered as innovation, in case of malfunction the owners do not know what to do.
How To Fix Your AC |Outdoor Fan Will Not Turn On
A short literacy, concerning the system functioning, will not be superfluous. Split-system itself is presented by the outside compressor-condensing unit, and also evaporating unit, which is considered as an inside unit. To the outside of a split-system belong a compressor, a condenser, a fan, a control board, and also a four-way valve, a filter and a casing. As for the indoor unit it includes front panel, filters, indication panels, evaporator, fan, control board as well as condensate sump.
The system does not work without the copper tubes, through which the freon. the system’s refrigerant. travels.
During the operation the freon is in two states. liquid and gaseous, that is why the copper tubes are of different diameters.
Consider the most frequent problems in the work of the mechanism.
- Split-system does not turn/start. It’s most likely a faulty electrical cable. If you ascertained that there is voltage in the network, then the breakdown should be searched in the network socket, plug or cable or in the sockets of power (which are on the control board). Sometimes it happens that there is not enough voltage in the network for the unit to work. If the split system does not work, there may be an overload of the in-house network.
- Water is dripping. The matter is probably a clogged drain line. If the clog is of the mechanical type, it is because of dirt that has clogged the tubes. If the clog is climatic, it could be in the winter if parts of the pipe are frozen. Ice plugs are a dangerous and unlikely, but still possible cause of a clog.
- Unpleasant odor. This internal fault indicates a clogged filter. If the indoor unit fan emits a repulsive smell, it could be an indication that bacteria are breeding in the unit. Sometimes flushing filter doesn‘t help, you need to order complex service.
- The compressor does not work. This breakdown has several variants of occurrence. Compressor itself could break or the thermostat could be broken. If the compressor breaks down, you can’t fix it yourself. Only jammed motor shaft can be repaired relatively easily.
- Is the compressor running fast or is it just shutting down? If split-system switches off quickly while working seemingly normally, it means that one of the temperature sensors is out of order. You can check the operation of the sensors with a multimeter. Sensors repair is inexpensive, that is why such problem is usually quickly solved.
The remote control breakages also happen. in this case it is necessary to apply to a service department. If the device is still under warranty, the remote control will be replaced. If the warranty has expired, advise where it can be repaired or buy a new one.
If it seems that split-system has some problems, if you do not feel that it works in full capacity, make external inspection. Call in specialists if necessary. You can recollect if anything has happened recently that could put the technique out of operation.
The main signs of a faulty air conditioner:
Before we start to analyze the faults, let us state the condition that conditioner SHOULD BE CLEAN! In order not to confuse notion of “faulty conditioner” and “conditioner, which needs maintenance”. The cause of all malfunctions can be contamination of the air conditioner.
Probably all the MAIN malfunctions can be divided into 4 groups, which already indirectly indicate the causes. Let us denote them this way:
- The most common case is the behavior of the indoor unit when “the indoor unit works, but doesn‘t cool”. This symptom usually means that the unit louvers are open and the fan is blowing, but there is no change in the room temperature. At the same time you should be sure that air conditioner is properly adjusted and that operating conditions (for example, temperature on the street) are fulfilled.
- The second, also widespread case is a situation when water is flowing from inside unit.
- The next case is the conditioner does not show any signs of life at all (does not react to the remote control).
- The fourth case sounds like this: conditioner is functioning for some time, and then it suddenly switches off. Let’s include here all the rest of malfunctions (fans, compressor, etc. are not working).
And now we are beginning to disassemble all four items in order, but we do not forget that the reason can be ambiguous:
The reason of malfunction is the electric failure. Malfunction of control board or connection between outside and inside blocks is possible. If conditioner does not go out of a sleep mode, so the problem is in a settings.
The increased release of moisture is the result of incorrect using of the equipment. often such breakages appear if split-system is started on “cold” at the lowered temperature of surrounding air. This causes plugs to form in the drainage system.
Second cause of water leakage is internal radiator clogging.
To restore a correct work of the equipment you should do the following:
- Warm up the duct in cold weather. This will help if the ice plug has not yet formed in it. Optimal heating temperature is 7 O
- If a plug appears, it is better to wait for the heat to arrive. This will allow the ice to self-dissolve.
- Flush the drain with water when using a pump or compressor unit.
Do not use conditioner with clogged drainage system. This will cause the liquid to flow out of the casing, which will lead to damage to the interior and complete failure of the entire system.
The fan in the indoor/outdoor unit of the air conditioner is constantly running
Regardless of whether the air conditioner is switched on with the remote control or not, when the air conditioner is connected to power, the fan rotates constantly. This is caused by a breakdown in the power element of this relay. I found a board from a Malaysian Panasonic CS-A07DKD, so we’ll use it as an example. Let’s look for the photocells on the board:
In the photo there are two of them. one controls the indoor fan, the other supplies voltage to the outdoor fan, which is easy to trace by the wires.
Find the part we need and its pins on the back side of the board.
The symbols ” and “-” stand for the control circuit, which is galvanically isolated from the high voltage power part. Usually the control voltage of 12 V is used for air conditioners. And the waveforms are the power terminals for controlling the variable load.
When you measure the resistance between them, in a normal state, it is high, tens of MOhms, in any polarity, but if the triac is broken, then its value tends to zero, in my case, for example, it was 30 ohms. Unsolder the photocoupler from the board (as in part 1) and solder the new one. Do not forget the soldering conditions in the documentation of the appliance. No more than 10 seconds at 350 0 C soldering temperature.
The most widespread phototriacs, which are used in circuit boards of air conditioners to control the fan motors, this firm Omron G3MC-202PL and the company NAIS AQG22212B02. They are able to switch AC loads up to 2 A, at voltages up to 240 V.
At the same time, it is complete analogs, the characteristics and pinout (pinout on the chassis).
Unfortunately, I have neither of them, so I had to use a donor. Found a board with OMRON G3MB photosimistors. Looked at the characteristics. They are the same, only G3MB is an obsolete model, which was replaced by the G3MC. The only difference. The G3MB needs a current-limiting resistor at the control input, while the G3MC already has one built in. So I soldered the G3MB, but I broke the control circuit and put a resistor in the gap. I took its rating from the previous board. it was 1 kOhm, the same one I put on the board to be repaired.
After soldering the new component, I checked the board with a light bulb. The size of the plug fit the pins of the fan connector very well.
By changing the fan speed with remote control, you should be able to see the change of brightness of the lamp.
When selecting analogues, please note that we need a non cross-zero relay. For G3MC such parts are marked with PL at the end.
As a result of the article, I publish all the data on the parts