How to tune a gas water heater: adjust the gas, water temperature
Many users are faced with a problem: the heater does not give the expected results. It happens because of the wrong setting of the equipment. Manufacturers have found a way out and released devices with automatic adjustment. We will tell you how to adjust the gas water heater. normal and automatic.
Despite the fact that each speaker “Selena”, “Vector”, “Bosch”, “Neva” has instructions indicating the settings, not all users understand them. One mistake in the beginning. and the technique does not work as it should.
The work begins with the adjustment of the water. If you do not do it immediately, then all the settings will not be accurate. The flow should be minimal. The nominal values are indicated in the documents, but they are common: 6, 10, 12 liters.
- Open the hot water faucet to full capacity. Only one valve can be unscrewed when connecting to multiple extraction points.
- Using the water selector switch, set the desired value.
- Turn on the tap.
- Wait until the pressure in the main line decreases, but the heater will still turn on.
- Turn water tumbler knob to maximum position.
- Turn the gas regulator to the minimum setting until you are satisfied with the temperature.
To finish cooking, you need to adjust the gas supply. Check the data sheet again for the minimum value for your model.
- Turn rocker switch to minimum.
- Turn on the gas tap. On Ariston, Electrolux models this is done after connecting to the mains. In Oasis, Dion, Bosch, Junkers heaters. after installing the batteries.
- Open the hot valve. the heater will start.
How to set up a gas water heater. step by step instructions
Recall, the process is quite short, but you need to be careful in all the details. The first time will be the hardest, but the next times it will be faster.
After preparation it is necessary to put the minimum flow of liquid with gas (the values are prescribed in the manual, usually for water is 6/8 or 10/12 liters per minute, gas you set for your specific device), turn off the tap, supply only hot water and connect the electronics. you need to start the heater. Wait for the water to heat up, then measure the temperature. To do this, measure the temperature of cold water from the faucet, then open the hot water to maximum and measure its temperature. The difference between the inlet and outlet should be about 25 degrees Celsius. If it is significantly hotter/colder, you need to correct this. To do this, turn the gas knob or toggle switch. The main task of the toggle switch is to increase/decrease the pressure of the water coming out of the water heater. High pressure. low temperature, low pressure. high temperature.
Water heating does not occur instantly, so you must have patience when adjusting. After any change in the indicators you need to wait a couple of minutes until the water heats up.
According to the recommendations of experts, it is not advised to put the water heating more than 55 degrees Celsius. During the operation of the gas heater when heated calcium salts are released, which are deposited in the tubes of the heat exchanger and form a scale, which makes the water less heated. Also, the more a layer of lime scale is formed, the smaller the diameter of the tube and, accordingly, the water pressure. Scaling is a natural process; in order to avoid serious problems, it is necessary to clean the gas water heater 1-2 times a year. But at a temperature of heating over 55 degrees scale is formed much faster, so even if you like a hotter water, do not put the water heating more than 55 degrees.
Possible problems. often than not, users experience these problems during self-tuning:
Unstable pressure in your plumbing will lead to faster wear and tear of equipment that works with water, including the gas water heater. Pressure fluctuations severely wear out the glands and rubbers in the joints, which causes leaks. In case of serious problems with pressure drops the pipes or the heat exchanger can burst. This can be overcome by installing a pressure regulator in the water system. Pressure problems can also be caused by a faulty valve that needs to be replaced.
Lower water pressure causes the heat exchanger to fail to fill sufficiently with water. The heat exchanger itself is an intermediary that transfers heat from the burner flame to the water. If there is not enough water, the intermediary begins to absorb heat. However, the device can not withstand such high temperatures for a long time. As a result, the heat exchanger burns out, melts or begins to leak. To avoid this, the manufacturers of gas boilers for the last 10-15 years have been producing models with low-pressure protection. Protection works on the principle of “low pressure. the water heater will not ignite. If the pressure has decreased sharply, it is most likely a problem with the water supplier, in which case contact the proper service. If you have always had a small water pressure, it is recommended to install a pump in the water supply to increase the pressure. Also the problem of low head is caused by the formation of scale/clogging of pipes and leakage.
The main damages
Once you understand the structure, you can consider the typical malfunctions that occur in such devices.
A clog in the chimney
One of the most common reasons why the water does not heat can be a blocked vent. Debris clogged chimney is not able to create sufficient draught for combustion, so the protection system built into the device cuts off the fuel supply.
By cleaning the smoke evacuator of soot and foreign objects you will eliminate the problem. To check the system for performance can be checked with a lit candle. Hold it to the well and watch the flame. If it deflected strongly. it means that the draught is fine.
Faulty ignition system
The second most popular problem with water heaters is dead batteries. This malfunction applies only to systems with automatic ignition. Despite manufacturers’ high-sounding claims that their batteries last up to a year, they should be replaced more often. In addition to simple discharge, the element can oxidize or simply be defective. Make it a rule to periodically check its condition.
This is the simplest procedure, which you can do yourself.
Weak water pressure
Often the gas water heater heats badly because of the false operation of the security system. Due to low fluid pressure on the diaphragm, the system does not turn on the gas valve. Detecting the problem is simple: open the faucet and watch the water flow. If it is weak, it means that there is a problem somewhere in the plumbing.
To fix the problem you will need to:
- contact the utility and clarify the cause of low pressure;
- Clean the filter system of impurities or replace it with a new one;
- Leave an application for cleaning the pipes at the utility service;
- Thoroughly clean the gas water heater of soot and soot;
- Check the performance of the membrane and replace it with a new one if necessary;
A clogged water supply system
A fairly rare malfunction that occurs when the equipment is not properly set up. If the gas water heater lights up, but goes out after a while. most likely, the balance in the system of cold and hot water supply is disturbed. Experts say the following about it: you should not mix cold and hot water when operating the heater. This causes the burner flame to fade, and also contrary to the rules of working with the device. It is possible to repair the defect by reducing the cold water flow pressure.
Wear of the separating diaphragm
The next provocateur of failure can be a worn-out membrane in the check valve. Over time, intensive work deforms the part by constant loads. This leads to a loss of sensitivity in the burner ignition sensor, the gas valve does not open, and the speaker goes out. There is no way to prevent the situation, even the most reliable membranes lose elasticity over time. Experts recommend replacing the part every five to seven years.
To detect wear and tear is quite simple. turn on maximum water pressure. If the burner went out, it means that the matter is in the old diaphragm.
Fading in the process of operation
If the gas water heater lights up and then extinguishes during operation, then the bimetallic sensor is broken. Its main task is to measure the temperature and protect the device from excessive heat. The manifestation of such a failure can be different.
- The hot water heater switches on and works for some time without any trouble, then the burner extinguishes for no reason and the work stops. Attempts to ignite it again fail. After 10 minutes the device can work again, but soon the gas supply will stop. The explanation is the oversensitivity of the sensor.
- Blackouts and ignitions have a chaotic nature, it is impossible to predict periods of stable operation. This time the problem is caused by damaged wires of the device. Broken conductor insulation causes short circuits on the body and triggers the fuse.
This fault cannot be corrected at home. It is necessary to contact the service or directly to the manufacturer.
The problem is “seasonal” in nature. Summer heat or closed rooms can provoke overheating of the device, which is not a failure in itself. Try to move the device to a ventilated room or call for a professional technician.
The banal reason why the heater heats water poorly, can become an excessive buildup of limescale on the heating element. In this malfunction, the gas is steadily fed to the burner, the water circulates through it, but in such conditions it will not heat to the desired temperature.
Limescale builds up as a result of the unit coming into contact with bad water or the igniter not firing properly. Operating after the main system has been switched off, the heat exchanger evaporates residual water, thereby increasing the scaling layer. Not flushed out by the inflow of fresh water, it has time to settle on the walls and firmly entrenched. Over time, the heating element will stop heating, and the heater will stop working. The problem can be eliminated by rinsing the heat exchanger in a special solution.
To avoid the active formation of scale, experts recommend resorting to the installation of a water filter.
Why the gas water heater does not heat water well: the first reason. clogging
Clogged gas water heater vent is one of the common problems faced by users of water heating systems. The chimney, clogged with various debris, soot and smoke, can not give the proper draught, so the system lacks the pressure for gas supply. Result. no hot water coming from the gas water heater.
The problem is determined very simply: you need to bring a lit match to the ventilation output. If the flame is even and does not bevel. there is no draft in the system. You can also observe falling pieces of soot. another sign of a clogged pipe. All this happens when you haven’t cleaned or haven’t cleaned the water heater for a long time.
How to fix the problem: the ventilation well is cleaned of debris and dirt. Checking the draught is carried out in the same way as identifying the fault. we bring a match. If the flame is deflected to the side. there is pressure.
Causes of malfunction
The boiler does not heat well, cold water comes out of the faucet? What could have happened:
- Thick layer of deposits on the outer walls of the heat exchanger (radiator). Soot and carbon deposits build up during operation: the thicker the dirt layer, the harder it is to heat the flow. This leads to the fact that the appliances “Neva”, “Ariston” and other brands do not heat the contents.
- Weak flame in the burner. Means that the diaphragm is faulty or worn, so it does not create enough pressure on the gas valve.
- Overheating of the radiator. Impurities from the water mains deposit on the walls and parts of the appliance in the form of scale. The radiator has a hard time releasing heat into the environment, causing overheating.
- Insufficient pressure in the gas line. You need to wait for recovery or contact the gas service.
- Failure to maintain equipment at the proper time. Parts should be periodically cleaned and checked for proper operation.
Let’s take a closer look at all the causes of malfunction, ways to fix them.
Causes of failures and their elimination
What else can be the causes of poor heating? Consider the possible problems and ways to solve them.
Incorrect burner flame regulation. In this case, the temperature does not exceed 40-60 ° C. Increase the flame. To do this remove the boiler drum by previously removing the fixing screws. Increase the flame output by turning the knob on the burner. Watch the results of the settings, you may need to further increase or decrease the power.
The flow rate of the heat carrier is dropping. This means that the system is losing heat quickly. Why it happens:
- Leaks in radiators, pipes. Check all connections, joints. Run a dry cloth over them. If you find a leak, you need to seal the area. Sanitary tow or a special sealant will do. Feed the system with coolant.
Boiling Water Without Heat | Earth Lab
- Incorrect adjustment of the pump. Circulation pumps are sometimes equipped with a speed regulator. To increase the speed of movement of the liquid, set a higher rate.
- Incorrect installation or connection of the system. Ensure that all stop valves are open and that there is a steady flow of water to the radiators.
- Air s also block circulation. To eliminate them, use the Maevsky cocks that are located on the radiators. Hold a container and turn off the tap. Air will escape with the liquid. After that close the valves and make sure the system is working properly.
Automation is malfunctioning. One of the sensors may be sending a false signal, so the boiler is blocked from operating if the temperature rises. It is necessary to diagnose all the parts, their wires and contacts.
Improperly sized equipment in terms of power. There is such a thing as a boiler clocking. If capacity is too high for your area, the unit will frequently shut down when it reaches a certain temperature. The room will not get warm properly. How to set the temperature in this case? Regulators will not help. You have to include additional radiators or change the settings of the gas valve. If this does not work for you, the only option is to replace the boiler with a less powerful one.
Gas pressure fluctuates. Unscrew fuel valve all the way, check if it works properly. Sometimes excessive lubrication interferes with the gas supply. Remove the excess from the parts of the valve.
Poor drainage of combustion products. This happens in case of a bad draft. Gas temperature at the outlet is about 120 ° C. It leads to overheating of the boiler, malfunctions. In addition, a poor air supply makes the flame unstable.
Check the draught by holding a lit match to the inspection window. If the air supply is normal, the flame will deflect to the side. If not. will burn evenly. In this case it is necessary to clean the chimney from blockages.
Debris in the heat exchanger. As we wrote above, scale is deposited on the tubes of the node. Deposits narrow the passage for water, therefore the pressure and temperature drop. The liquid inside boils, and soon the heat exchanger fails. If the temperature drops for this reason, you need to dismantle and clean the unit of scale. Use chemicals and a pump to purge the coil passages. To avoid recurrence, install magnetic water filters.
After reading this publication you can add and pump the coolant yourself, increase the level of heating. Regulate the operation of the boiler according to the instructions, follow the timing of technical inspections, then your equipment will break down much less often.
Having understood the structure, you can consider the typical failures that occur in such devices.
Debris in the chimney
One of the most common reasons why the water does not heat can be a blocked vent. Chimney clogged with debris is not able to create sufficient draft for combustion, so the protection system built into the device cuts off the fuel supply.
By cleaning the chimney from soot and foreign objects, you will eliminate the problem. You can check the correctness of the system with a lighted candle. Hold it to the well and watch the flame. If it deviates strongly. it means that the draught is fine.
Defective ignition system
The second most popular problem with water heaters is a discharged battery. This malfunction only applies to systems with automatic ignition. Despite the loud statements of manufacturers that their battery lasts up to a year, you should change it more often. In addition to simple discharge, the element can oxidize or simply be defective. Make it a rule to periodically check its condition.
This is the simplest procedure that you can do yourself.
Weak water pressure
Often the gas water heater does not heat water because of the false operation of the protection system. Because of low fluid pressure on the diaphragm, the system does not turn on the gas valve. It’s easy to spot the problem: Open the mixer and look at the water flow. If it is weak, it means that somewhere in the plumbing there is a problem.
How Temperature Affects the Solubility of Gases. Experiment
To fix the problem you will need to:
- Contact the utility and clarify the cause of low pressure;
- Clean the filter system from contamination or replace it with a new one;
- Leave an application for pipe cleaning with the utility company;
- Thoroughly clean the gas water heater from soot and soot;
- check the diaphragm for proper operation and replace it with a new one, if necessary;
A broken water supply system
Quite a rare malfunction that occurs when the equipment is not properly configured.
If the gas water heater lights up, but goes out after a while. most likely, the balance in the cold and hot water supply system is out of balance.
Experts say the following about it: you should not mix cold and hot water when using the speaker. This causes the burner’s flame to go out, and also contradicts the rules of work with the device. The problem can be solved by reducing the cold water flow pressure.
Old or damaged batteries
Many models of modern speakers use batteries to perform individual functions. If the contacts are oxidized or their service life has expired, the gas boiler will not turn on.
To solve the problem just open the battery compartment, inspect them for damage, clean the contacts if necessary, as well as replace the batteries.
Low water pressure
Each speaker is equipped with a protection system that ensures the safety of its use. At insufficient water pressure heating equipment will not turn on.
To check the quality of water supply, just open the faucet. If the pressure is insufficient, it is worth to contact the management company, to find out the reason. When the pressure is good, but the water is not supplied to the speaker, it is important to assess the condition of the incoming filters, which may be clogged.
The cause of poor water pressure can be a clog at the connection point of the heater. To eliminate it, it is enough to unscrew the connection, check the water supply
When the water pressure coming out of the speaker is excellent, but it does not reach the bathroom, you can not take a shower, it is worth checking whether the shower head is not clogged.
No draught in the duct
If there is no draft, the gas will not ignite. The cause of the malfunction is often a clogged flue duct in which an object is lodged. It can also collect combustion products, such as soot. As a result, the lumen becomes clogged, the draught disappears. Then the circuit breaker opens, the heater does not start.
Chimney clogged with combustion products, debris, can not provide the traction necessary for the heater. To ensure the quality of water heating, it is important to monitor the cleanliness of the duct
To solve the problem, you must first check the draft. Light a match, bring it to the channel. If there is a draught, the flame will be directed towards the hood. If there is no traction, you can try using a vacuum cleaner to get rid of accumulated combustion products. some of the soot accumulates in the upper part of the column.
If self-cleaning does not bring results, it is worth inviting a chimney sweep.
Wear of the separating diaphragm
If the gas water heater no longer heats water, the problem may be in the outdated valve membrane. This detail is constantly stressed, as a result it gradually wears out. As a result, the combustion sensor stops working, and the speaker does not turn on.
It is impossible to prevent the breakdown, the rubber gradually loses elasticity. To check the diaphragm operation is simple. turn on the hot water at maximum. If the device goes out, it means it is time to replace the part. Experts advise to do it every 5 years.
The problem is with the separating diaphragm of the water tower
Membrane has a lifespan of about 7 years. Over time, the elasticity of the part deteriorates, and it gets rough or even torn. Then the starter mechanism of the gas water heater can not work properly. As a result, the ignition of the device is delayed or not made at all.
The water heater is like: “Hey, honey, it’s 50 degrees outside, why do you need 40 degrees??”
I’ll throw in my five cents. I’ve been in the heating service business for many years. The easiest way. Close the gas faucet in front of the speaker until you reach the desired comfort temperature, but so that at least lit steadily
There is a minimum flame, less than which the heater can not turn down. So if the pressure is low and the water is warm at the inlet, it will be too hot at the outlet.
I have an automatic Neva deluxe. In principle, it works without problems, the temperature holds as long as specified, but in summer there is a similar problem. When you turn on the burner is turned on high power (to ensure that the gas is lit), and then reduced to a minimum, so the first minutes of water is much hotter than necessary. When the head was low, you couldn’t turn down the temperature to normal, either
The Neva has a simpler “winter-summer” position switch on the bottom right, under the casing. Directly on the water “frog”. It just regulates the gas flow according to the head, in case the incoming water temperature is high.It is quite possible that on the older versions there is a similar system.
It just so happens that I’ve been using gas water heaters for the last 30 years. Always had some inconveniences, I will not describe them, everybody, who uses this technique, knows about it. I had a Neva simple and Neva with a modulator and several imported columns, by the way not the Chinese and not cheap at all. Recently, it was impossible to live in general due to the fact that the water pressure in the water supply is no longer constant and too low, sometimes you can even plug the tap with your finger and hold it. Booster water was partially solved problems, but because it is constantly formed condensate, booster served from the force of a year. And a half, and the price is not a penny. And so I set a goal to find a speaker that works at low water pressure. Looked through a bunch of reviews and decided to buy an Ariston fast evo (this is not advertising). I use it for the second year. Probably the first speaker that I just love. It is impossible to burn yourself with water in any situation. No problem taking a shower while the dishes are being washed in the kitchen. The thermostat on the column does not have to twist at all. And plus to all if during acceptance of shower the exhaust pipe on Neva was heated to 100 with superfluous degrees now it can safely touch a hand without fear to burn.
Alternatively, the water in the pipes warms up from the heat. And the speaker, even at minimum, heats it up even more. It will be cooler and everything will be fine.
There are three options. The first and most simple. to press a little gas tap. The second is more expensive-put a tank and booster pump at the inlet xv in the house. And the third most costly and time-consuming is to change the tee-connections of the water supply to a collector. With this option, in theory, it will be possible to make a sub-mixture of the faucet.
Ooh, how many I did not rent, and everywhere there were such columns they caused an overwhelming desire to throw her to hell and put a boiler at least 50l, it lights then does not light, the batteries sit in a piezo, and the water temperature depends directly on its head, in general, pretty terrible thing for fans of the shower, and if you take a bath is quite normal
This speaker has a temperature at the outlet, depending on the pressure of water. The stronger it is the cooler the water, put the right regulator to max and adjust the left, but if the water pressure is insufficient, it will not help much
I think it’s better to appeal to the gas company (yes they are crazy as fuck, and will rip off like clay), I have a “Borinsky” two-circuit boiler, but it is simple as a piece of concrete. There you can do it yourself, if you have direct hands. Your water heater is already “nano boiler”, here better a specialist. Hello, fellow countryman!
The thermostat could be clogged, the sensor itself, especially if it is not in the water, and the temperature is calculated indirectly. The ones in the water usually work clearly.
Well and yes, the heating has its inertia, until the water reaches the sensor is already overheating. Just dilute the cold at the faucet and do not suffer.
Bathroom: 2.7kv.м. is misery and pain. Or how I redid a Khrushchev bathroom
Good day to you. Almost a year ago I did a post about the kitchen, which gathered an unexpected number of views and Комментарии и мнения владельцев (by the way, here it is Link to the post about the kitchen ). and in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев I promised to continue. And, however, I continue!
So, meet. typical Khrushchev bathroom 1.7 on 1.5. I couldn’t find any pictures of the old ones, but roughly. Yeah, that’s what it looks like.
Basically a classic. short bathtub, above it. gas water heater. Sink, toilet, very, very small washing machine depth of 30cm (piquant detail. On the toilet should have sat down at 30 degrees, because the washing machine did not leave room for the feet), a towel rail. All communications open installation, of course, and perpetually clogging drainage, going to the letter “Zu”. Bathtub with stripped enamel, rough as a cat’s tongue. In general, as I wrote earlier. A fan in your teeth, a respirator on your face, and go. a personal hell without a bathroom for the duration of the repair, and a delicious grinding of concrete crumbs on our teeth waiting for us.
But! Before smashing everything, a plan was made (in general, the plan was made for the entire apartment, I break these posts by room, so that all was broken almost simultaneously). because without the TK, the result is not good.
And before the plan. The following wishes were formulated. And wishes were formulated, in turn, from the postulate that I live alone, do it all for 1 person (one guest), and taking into account only their characteristics and wants. So:
1) In the bathroom remain washing machine and gas boiler. The room may be small, but its functions must not spill over into other rooms.
2) The bathroom is replaced by a shower stall. This decision combined two reasons. First, I’m not a big fan of soaking in the bathroom, after 5-10 minutes to get out, plus easily forget about it and the risk of flooding the neighbors. Secondly, the shower cabin is much more compact than a bathtub trough.
3) On the toilet should sit upright, not BOTH sides! (yes, the old layout still gives me nightmares.)
4) All engineering plumbing should be hidden, but be available for maintenance. No walled-off tangle of pipes and faucets in a meter deep alcove, in a palm-sized hole.
After adopting these ideas for myself, I began to draw the model. plan. I am attaching the current plan to this post, after all the adjustments in the process. In fact, the early plan was somewhat different (in general, the plans were 5)
So, despite the fact that I originally looked at the shower in the form factor capsule of plastic and glass, I quickly abandoned the idea. Firstly, a shower cabin uselessly wastes space, secondly, it badly fits into the interior, and thirdly. and according to the reviews, it’s a lot of fun to clean. Almost immediately, the shower in the construction version became the dominant idea. Its advantage is that it uses 100% of the area, fits into the interior, visually not eating up space (because it. part of the room), and due to the simplicity of the forms, it is easy to clean and maintain.
Long thinking with a tape measure and a 3D editor also led me to the idea of a room. function, in which the primary function and the secondary attempt to make the room visually spacious. because, man, making a doghouse spacious to the eye where you can’t spread your arms without touching the opposite walls. apparently impossible. Well, to give up some of the functions such as water heater or washing machine. which was unacceptable. Thus, most of the thinking was built around how to place everything you need in a minimum volume, while maintaining the functionality of this most necessary. Well, for example. normal to go to the sink, normal to unload the washing machine, normal to wash, etc., etc.
As a consequence, and appeared the 3D model that hangs above. In the corner. a toilet bowl, aligned so that a person sitting on it does not touch the right wall (1 cm clearance from the hip), and the legs can be stretched out a little and not lean against the wall in front of him. To the right of the toilet bowl. 60 cm of space under the machine and the sink above it (60 cm. typical width of the machines). The composition is completed by a worktop which plays both a functional role (storing utensils, support for the sink, a place to put things and a towel holder) and a decorative one, combining the toilet bowl, washing machine and sink in a single form.
to the right. a tiny room or a box under the engineering, the water heater (the width of the box was dictated by the width of the water heater put the gap for safe operation). There is also a place to store mops, buckets, detergent supplies.
And, as a consequence, the shower automatically got its dimensions. It could not be deeper than the distance from the edge of the washing machine to the wall, and could not be wider than the distance from the bulkhead of the box to the wall. In fact, the shower took up all the space it could. its dimensions. 980750. And those are good dimensions. They are sufficient for a person to take a shower comfortably without resting against the walls (actually, the shower is even spacious, if this word is applied to the niche width of a little less than one meter)
I’ll omit what an asshole it is when you can’t wash in your apartment (I didn’t move out, lived in the same room). There was no plan to break down the walls. But unfortunately, after removing the tiles and glue, it turned out that the partitions are just wobbly. they were originally very thin, like 80 mm, but after working as a humidifier they looked like a photo of the historic chronicles of the defense of stalingrad. Thus, the new foam concrete walls were erected, exactly the same size as the old ones, with 2 exceptions. at the expense of the flatness of the geometry of the walls, the room became a little more (because plaster to level the walls also requires space), and I enlarged the doorway from 600 to 700 mm, shifting it by 100 mm to the left. By doing so, I have secured a place for the shower, and ensured a hassle-free entry of the washing machine for the future.