Causes of malfunction of the towel dryer
Malfunctions of the towel dryer leads to:
- Incorrect connection of the device negatively affects the quality of hot water circulation.
- The formation of a clog reduces the heat output of the device. To get rid of deposits, you need to dismantle the device, clean it.
- Appearance of an air lock in the towel radiator or the supply pipes are subject to a ladder-shaped design. Devices must be equipped with air vents. manual or automatic. When laying the pipeline is important to ensure the slope in the direction of the dryer, this will reduce the risk of traffic jams.
- Termination of the hot water supply by the utility.
- The incorrect operation of the towel dryer due to changes in the flow of hot water to other devices connected to the riser. It occurs due to a lack of bypasses or shut-off and control valves. The problem can be solved with the help of the employees of the management company.
- Leakage. caused by the thinning of the walls of the body under the influence of corrosion, in case of mechanical damage to the device, the loss of the original properties of materials.
The way to fix a leak in the towel radiator design depends on the cause of the leak:
- Leakage at the connection point is a minor malfunction. To fix it, it is necessary to tighten the clamping nut more with a corresponding wrench.
- Wear of the gasket. The hot water supply to the appliance must be shut off, the gasket must be replaced.
- A crack in the seam pipe. To fix it, you can use weld the damage, preliminarily cutting off the heating medium supply. Or use a clamp of the right size, equipped with a rubber pad.
If the damage to the towel rail is due to corrosion, you need to replace it.
The towel radiator stopped heating after a planned disconnection of the hot water supply?
Ladder towel dryers have undeniable advantages over regular coils, but at the same time they are technically more complicated. If the water towel dryer has been installed for a long time and worked well before, but after the planned turn off / turn on the hot water, as it happens with us in the summer, it stopped heating, most likely the installation of your ladder did not make a slope for the underwater and outlet pipes and for this reason an air lock is formed, preventing the natural circulation.
We hope that watching the video below will solve your problem.
Every year our apartments turn off the hot water. This is done especially for the scheduled maintenance of the plumbing at the central heating station (CHS).
The main reason why the towel radiator is cold after the summer disconnection of the hot water supply is the decrease or termination of the coolant flow through the heater. “Breakdown” can be found in several places:
The tap on the riser of the hot water or heating is blocked, and the riser itself when feeling should be hot, and the communications in the towel rail are cold. Check the location and routing of all communications for additional fittings, which can cause water circulation problems.
The most common reason for a cold towel dryer are old pipe systems, the sections of which are “overgrown” with sediments of salts, rust and debris. And this problem can occur rather suddenly after the summer downtime of the heating system or during the coolant change.
The lack of coolant circulation in a towel dryer due to its incorrect connection to the main line. the “scourge” of the modernization of old heating systems, when the connections of heating devices and the whole risers are changed on the principle of “I want so”. Pay attention to the way in which the lines of the towel rail in the riser:
The heating branch is included in the gap riser, which is poorly heated, and there is a hotter one nearby. this means that your heater is included in the “return” and it will have to be reinstalled. If you find cold risers, the cause must be sought in the basement or neighbors riser, which could change the heat-carrying communications.
A common reason why the cold towel rail, when you connect its communications to two risers (parallel connection of the batteries) becomes unfair replacement piping from the neighbors, t.е. They intentionally changed the hydrodynamic resistance of the whole heating system, letting the main flow of the hot coolant through their heater.
If we exclude all these causes and find out the weak heating of a towel dryer the reason can be hidden in a banal air lock in heat carrying communications, which can be easily removed by installation on a towel dryer of Maevsky faucet, designed for bleeding air from the heating system. To check the presence of the coolant pressure in the heating system it is allowed to partially unscrew the coupling of the towel dryer until the air hisses and a small trickle of fluid.
The solution to the problem of why the towel radiator is cold can be accomplished in three ways:
Complete replacement of all piping and risers, t.е. Reconstruction of the centralized heating system according to all requirements.
Disconnection of a towel dryer from the heating system with its connection to the hot water system.
Removal of the old towel dryer and installation of a new electric model.
Houses typically install either dead-end or stationary home hot water systems. Dead-end systems have a significant disadvantage. the consumer receives hot water directly from the network and when you turn off the tap water begins to cool in the pipes.
Accordingly, the towel dryer loses its heating properties. while in the circulating stationary systems, the hot water passes through the supply riser and flows out through the return riser, eliminating the cooling of the liquid.
often than not, towel dryers stop heating in bathrooms when clogs and clogs form. To clean the pipes, you must turn off the faucet, remove the equipment, put caps on the pipes and go over their inner walls with a wire brush on a soft wire. In this case, you need to make light tapping to remove salt deposits from the walls. At the end of the cleaning, the towel dryer is thoroughly rinsed under a head of water or hydrochloric acid solution, which softens the hard deposits. If the dryer remains cold after this procedure, it will have to be replaced.
Tools and materials for repair
The set of tools depends on the type of dryer and the type of water pipes (metal-plastic, steel). You need mounting brackets to strengthen the towel radiator. Purchase sealing elements made of rubber or other material. If the device is an old type, you will need a linen cloth, oakum and grease for sealing. You need a heat-resistant sealant, sometimes cold welding.
- adjustable wrench or a set of open-ended wrenches according to the cross-sectional area of the pipe;
- soldering iron, construction knife for cutting polypropylene pipes (if the line is made of the appropriate material), hammer, pliers.
What to do, if the towel dryer leaks, whether replacement is necessary?
Bathroom towel rail
- the diameter of the strand should be about equal to the depth of the thread;
- the length of the strand should provide the necessary number of windings in 1,5. 2 layers;
- First you should twist the oakum, but not from the beginning, but with an indentation of 5 cm;
- the thread is wrapped clockwise (in the direction of the turns) twisted piece of oakum;
- then the winding continues with the second layer, but in the opposite direction;
- in the last step, the remaining, not twisted, beginning of the strand is wound on the thread from the middle to the end of the pipe.
Threaded connection can drip because of a flattened gasket. defects in the ends of the mating parts of the thread connection. a sharp edge, cutting the gasket, jammed threads;
Faulty threads can cause leaks. electrochemical corrosion that corrodes the body of the heater.
Where to shut off the water
- the socket is screwed on the long connector welded to the pipe;
- On the short socket welded to the towel radiator, winded linen or hemp lining;
- the ends of the nipples are aligned on one spatial axis, the coupling is screwed on the short nipple;
- on the reverse side (long thread) the coupling is clamped by a locknut.
At present builders arrange the towel dryer risers together with the other risers of HTW, HTW. They are cut into two lines. supply, return, mounted ball cocks, two water outlets in the bathtub.
In all other cases, an intermediate variant is used. self-installed bypass. offset, thinning, open or concealed distribution of pipes, shut-off valves.
Instead of steel pipes, risers are more often used polypropylene pipes, American or fittings with gaskets, coupling nuts.
Valves in the apartment
- there is still pressure in the system;
- Water from the riser will have to drain completely or partially, depending on the floor and the scheme of supply (from below, from above), on which the repair is made.
If there is no such clamp in the apartment, the stores are closed, the waiting time for emergency workers is delayed, and it is difficult or impossible to collect hot water in any container, it makes sense to go down into the basement of the house and shut off the valve by your own efforts. For this purpose it is necessary to imagine where exactly the stop valve is located.
Valves in the basement
- towel dryer riser can be included in the DHW system of the house or heating;
- Connection schemes and location of shut-off valves, respectively, will be different;
- Drain the water from any of these systems on their own categorically forbidden.
Elevator unit of the heating system.The pressure is regulated in the narrowed part of the elevator pipe. The principle is as follows:
- for risers, the heat carrier is taken before the elevator from the supply line (always at the top;
- Then in the attic or on the top floor of the building is pulled through the horizontal line, from which fed a maximum of six risers;
- the direction of circulation in them, respectively, will be from top to bottom;
- the bottom part of all these risers is connected into a common pipe, cut into the return of the elevator unit (always from the bottom).
Valves riser PS 1. 2 turns unscrew the drain plug;
Leakage at the connection threads
- this gasket is placed inside the union nut;
- The gasket already lies on the end of one connector, pressing against it the whole side surface;
- when screwing the same union nut on the second nipple the gasket is pressed to its end by its other surface.
- too sharp edge of one or both nipples. to be blunted with a file on the spot;
- jammed thread. run a die of the required size, on the pipe or water socket on the spot, on the mating connector in a vice.
PTFE gaskets.Non-repairable defects are sheared threads or the short threaded part of the union, on which the union nut will be screwed on. In this case, the shaped product can only be replaced as a whole, or the threads can be cut to a smaller size. In the second variant it is necessary to use a union nut of a smaller diameter, respectively.In the new heating systems, hot water and towel dryers, couplings with sleeved nuts are used by default. However, in apartments of secondary housing still operate in large numbers, dryers, connected to the risers the old way.
- mating pipes do not necessarily touch the ends;
- water penetrates into this gap in the inner space between the socket and the pipes;
- sealing is provided by filling up of hollows between threads with FUM tape or hemp.
- If you wind it less than the required amount, water will flow through the threads;
- if there is more tape on the thread than you need, it will simply shear off when you twist it.
- the diameter of the strand must be approximately equal to the depth of the thread;
- the length of the strand must provide the necessary number of windings in 1.5. 2 layers;
- first you need to twist the hemp, but not from the beginning, and with an indent of 5 cm;
- the thread is wrapped clockwise (in the direction of the turns) twisted part of the oakum;
- then the winding continues with a second layer, but in the opposite direction;
- at the last stage the rest, not twisted, beginning of the strand is wound onto the thread from the middle to the end of the pipe.
Leakage at the welding point
If in these places leakage is observed immediately after installation, the product is replaced in the store under warranty. However, during the operation of a towel dryer ladder such defects can be observed not only in welding sites, but also on straight and curved sections.The cause is electrochemical corrosion. Users and plumbers at the utility company usually refer to this as exposure to stray current, which is not quite right. In fact, any section of the PS can rust, and collapse under the pressure of water, due to the lack of grounding:
- All risers of the apartment building are connected to the ground loop by default;
- According to building regulations, steel pipes are used here;
- during the replacement of individual sections of risers with dielectric pipes, this circuit is interrupted;
- The water used as the heat transfer medium is a conductor of electricity.
Towel rail repair
A special wire that is sold in stores is used for this.
Stainless steel brazing wire.The damaged area is locally scrubbed with sandpaper, degreased with acetone. Then heating is performed with a gas hand torch.
Manual gas burner.The flame is led slightly to the side, the solid solder is leaning against the heated area.
The hole is filled with molten metal, the excess runs down the outer surface of the pipe, removed with a brush.
Remove the reason
Grounding the water supply socket using the concealed method. Clamps with a wire can be hidden under decorative plugs of fastening the heater to the wall, if the scheme of their location allows it.
The old model and the reasons of its failure
If the towel dryer, which was installed many years ago, leaks, it is necessary to act promptly in order not to make the problem global, because the operation time affects the condition of the construction.
- If after the inspection it is found that the towel dryer is covered by rust in the joint or on the surface of the pipes, it is recommended to replace the entire construction or its individual parts. Simply ignore the manifestation of corrosion is impossible. Otherwise the slightest fluctuations in pressure in the system will provoke a breakthrough and, as a consequence, then the bathroom. For the safety of the old model, a hydraulic protection is installed at its inlet.
- When you find dents in the towel rail, it is recommended to think about replacing the structure or partial repairs. In most cases, mechanical damage to the old model is the cause of the leak in this location. And the crack increases rapidly due to the wear and tear of the structure. If the problem occurs after the work of the repair crew, then the old towel dryer should be dismantled and the new one should be installed by the crew.
- The gaskets are inserted into the joints and lubricated with silicone sealant. Over time they become deformed, dry out. This is the reason why the towel dryer leaks. The water supply in the riser is blocked, the gaskets are changed and re-lubricated with silicone sealant.
Problem areas mostly arise from the fact that the model is already worn out and has lost its strength. Small cracks quickly develop into holes with large leaks. Therefore, the repair in this case is sometimes more expensive than replacing it with a new model.
There are only three reasons why a bathroom towel rail leaks:
loss of tightness of the gasket or winding;
To fix the cause of the leak, you need to shut off the circulation in the towel dryer, then drain the coolant.
The riser may be part of the heating system of the apartment building or belong to the water supply system DHW.
Where to shut off the water
In Soviet times, towel warmers were installed in the riser directly without a bypass and shutoff valves. This riser was in the middle of the combined bathroom or toilet, which greatly complicated the concealed wiring of this engineering system. Threaded socket connection:
- The coupling is screwed on the long connector welded to the pipe;
- A linen or hemp lining should be wound onto a short connector welded to the towel dryer;
- the ends of the fittings are aligned on one spatial axis, the socket is screwed on the short fittings;
- on the reverse side (long thread) the coupling is clamped with a lock nut.
Currently, developers place the risers of towel dryers with the rest of the risers of HTW, HTW. Two lines are cut into them. supply and return, ball valves are installed, two water outlets are installed in the bathtub.
In all other cases, an intermediate variant is used. the self-assembled bypass. shifted, recessed, open or concealed distribution of pipes, fittings.
Instead of steel pipes, standpipes are often used polypropylene pipes, American-style or fittings with gaskets, coupling nuts.
Faucets in the apartment
The easiest way to shut off the circulation of specially installed for this purpose taps. In this case, the contour of the towel radiator should be cut into the riser pipe in parallel, so that the circulation in the apartment system is preserved.
The correct wiring diagram of the substation with two taps.
However, the place of the leak can be in front of the shut-off valve or the towel radiator is connected in the gap riser without a bypass. In this case, it is necessary to shut off valves in the basement of the apartment building.
- There is still pressure in the system;
- Water from the riser will have to drain completely or partially, depending on the floor and the scheme of supply (from below, above), which is the repair.
Currently, the service of draining the water from the riser is paid. In addition, other tenants connected to the same riser are deprived of hot water or heating for the period of repair.
Therefore. when the dryer starts to leak, you need to call the housing and utilities company. However, waiting for an emergency service can drag on indefinitely.
If the water is only dripping from the connection, you can take no further action. On a strong fistula can independently apply a plumbing clamp, as in the photo below.
If the apartment has no such clamp, the stores are closed, the waiting time of “emergency” is delayed, it is difficult or impossible to collect hot water in any container, it makes sense to go down into the basement of the house and shut off the valve by your own efforts. To do this you need to know where exactly the valves are located.
Valves in the basement
Before you do anything about the basement valves, you need to consider the following:
- The riser pipe of the towel radiator can enter into the DHW system of the house or the heating system;
- Connection schemes and location of stop valves, respectively, will be different;
- It is strictly forbidden to drain water from any of the above systems by yourself.
You need to go down into the basement, to disconnect the riser, wait for the staff of the emergency team.
To reduce heat losses when transporting boiling water from the boiler house to the detached apartment buildings, the pressure and temperature of the coolant is increased. Therefore, in each basement is an elevator unit, in which the inlet temperature is reduced by mixing the cooled water from the return.
The pressure is regulated in the narrowed part of the elevator pipe. The principle of action here is as follows:
- In standpipes, the heat carrier is extracted before the elevator from the supply line (always from above;
- then in the attic of the building or on its upper floor is stretched a horizontal pipeline, from which are fed a maximum of six risers;
- the direction of circulation in them, respectively, will be from the top to the bottom;
- the lower part of all these risers join in a joint pipe, which is connected to the return of the elevator (always from below).
In a dead-end systems, the elevator unit is equipped with two shutters, in the circulation lines, there are four of them.
Therefore in order to eliminate the pressure in the whole house, you need to turn off all the valves or ball valves on top of the elevator unit. the supply.
This will allow to repair the towel dryer in the apartment, to eliminate the leak in the place of soldering, welding, and change the stop valve in front of the towel dryer circuit.
Note: In the scheme of the lower heating water supply pipes run along the perimeter of the building in the basement. The risers branch off to the heating registers in the living rooms and the kitchen. It is strictly forbidden to close taps on them.
Otherwise, air enters the system, the management company will submit a serious bill for preventive maintenance.
In older buildings, until about the mid-1980s, a dead-end DHW supply system was used. It is completely similar to the cold water system:
The handle may not be available, so it is better to bring a wrench before you go to the basement.
Later, hot water began to be supplied to apartments by the recirculation scheme. This allows it not to cool in the pipes in the long absence of consumption. Shut off the water in this case is much harder:
Turn the valve all the way in or move the ball valve lever to the off position at the bottom of its riser in the basement;
If this does not increase the water pressure in the ajar shutoff, the riser is not connected to the one of interest. It can be opened completely. This reveals the riser pipe that is directly connected to the riser pipe where the heater is located in the toilet room of interest.
Note: The plug is screwed back on. Drain the water by an on-call emergency service technician. It is better not to do it yourself as there is a risk of burns.
Leak on the threads of the connection
there are only two ways of making a threaded joint airtight. by tucking it in and by putting a gasket. To distinguish them is very simple. if the connection is a cap nut, FUM tape, oakum, other materials, woven into the thread, you should immediately put aside.
The principle of connecting the gaskets is very simple:
- this sealing element is placed inside the cap nut;
- The thread seal is already lying on the end of one union, touching it all the way to the side;
- when screwing the same union nut on the second connector, the gasket is pressed to its end by its other surface.
Thus, the liquid cannot penetrate between the connected fittings and the inner surface of the nut.
If you additionally wrap tape or FUM tape on the threaded part of the mating nipple, stainless steel union nut can not reach the end of the thread. In this case, the tightening force will remain, but the tightness can be noticeably reduced, because the gasket is not pressed on the ends of the connected fittings.
The gasket must be compressed by the union nut between the nipple and the socket.
The main defects that can be, and quite easily, eliminated with your own hands, are:
- Too sharp edge of one or both fittings can be blunted with a file on the spot;
- a jammed thread. “run” a flat of the required size, on the pipe or water socket on the spot, on the mating connector in a vice.
How to fix your towel rail when it stops heating
If there is no vice, the fitting can be clamped to the table top.
Less often the “culprit” of the leak is a PTFE gasket. This material has a high coefficient of linear expansion, and is too soft. On a stainless steel towel radiator connected to the heating system, if the hot water is turned off in the off-season, the gasket can shrink when cooling, causing leaks. To fix the problem it is enough to tighten the union nut.
Non-repairable defects are cut threads or short threads on the union where the cap nut will be screwed on. In this case the shaped product can only be replaced as a whole or the thread can be cut to a smaller size. In the second variant it is necessary to use a union nut of a smaller diameter, respectively.
New heating, DHW, and towel dryer systems default to couplings with cap nuts. However, in apartments of secondary housing still operate dryers, connected to risers “in the old way” in large numbers.
In this case, the sealing of the threaded joint can be done with a winding coupling. This option uses the classic method of ensuring the tightness of the threaded joint:
- Tubes to be connected do not have to be in contact with each other;
- water penetrates this gap into the internal space between the coupling and the pipes;
- tightness is ensured by filling up the hollows between the threads with FUM tape or caulk.
FUM tape is made of fluoroplastic, contrary to the obsessive advertising of the manufacturer, it is much more difficult for a non-professional to work with this material than with a typical winding:
- if less than the required amount is wound, water will flow through the threads;
- If there is more tape on the thread than the required amount, it will simply cut off when tightening.
The threaded joint is packed with linen cloth according to the following technology:
- the diameter of the strand should be approximately equal to the depth of the thread;
- the length of the strand should provide the necessary number of windings in 1.5. 2 layers;
- At the beginning the hemp should be twisted, but not from the beginning, but with an interval of 5 cm;
- The thread is wrapped clockwise (in the direction of the turns) with a twisted piece of oakum;
- then continue with a second layer, but in the opposite direction;
- at the last stage, the rest, not twisted beginning of a strand should be wound on a thread from the middle to the end of a pipe.
Over the linseed material is applied sealant or Unipak paste to impregnate the material. After the performed actions, the coupling should be wound by hand for 2 revolutions. Further tightening force is done with a wrench.
The cause of the leak in the threaded joints sealed with linen underwinding may be the depletion of the pipe life because of corroded through areas, both on the threaded and smooth surface of the pipe.
To fix the breakage it will be necessary to cut off the defective part or change the whole pipe.
Leakage at the welding spot
The higher the decorative value of the heater for the bathroom, the more it has welded or soldered joints.
If there are leaks in these areas immediately after installation, the product is replaced in the store under warranty. However, during the operation of the towel dryer ladder such defects can be observed, not only in welding sites, but also on straight and curved sections.
Electrochemical corrosion is the cause. Users and plumbers at the utility company usually refer to this as exposure to “stray current,” which is not entirely true. In fact, any section of the PS can rust, and collapse under the pressure of water, due to the lack of grounding:
- All risers of the apartment building are connected to the ground loop by default;
- According to building regulations steel pipes are used here;
- when replacing individual sections of risers with dielectric pipes, this circuit is interrupted;
- The water used as a coolant, is a conductor of electricity.
Therefore it is necessary to ground metal towel dryers additionally, although it reduces their decorative value in the interior of the room. Because it is much more difficult to repair a damaged area than it is to run a ground wire.
Towel rail repair
Pinholes in stainless steel PS pipes can be brazed at home on site or after disassembly, if the damaged area is not accessible.
To do this, use a special wire, which is sold in stores.
The damaged area is locally deburred with sandpaper, degreased with acetone. Then the pipe is heated with a hand-held gas torch.
The flame is held slightly to the side and firm solder is applied to the hot spot.
Fill the hole with molten metal, trickle the excess down the outside surface of the pipe and remove it with a brush.
Eliminating the cause
When using plastic pipes to replace old steel risers, it is recommended that the ground loop break be repaired:
to the water outlets, the wire can be pulled from the inside, screwing it with a clamp to the metal part of the fitting;
In other cases, you will have to put a clamp directly on the visible part of the pipes or PS.
Thus, the leaks of a towel dryer at the screw joints are eliminated by replacing the gaskets, gaskets, tidying up the threads and the ends of the fittings. To prevent leaks due to electrochemical corrosion of the heater you can correctly connect its metal parts to the ground loop of the apartment building.
Repairing a towel radiator if the nut is leaking
The most common place for a towel dryer to start leaking is at the nut fixing. The correction of such a problem has some peculiarities. First you should perform an inspection of the cap nut area. It can come loose due to temperature fluctuations. In this case it needs to be tightened with an adjustable wrench or open-end wrench.
If tightening does not eliminate the leak, you need to replace the gasket. To do this work, you must first turn off the water supply and wait until the device cools down. Then use an adjustable wrench to loosen the union nut and drain the liquid into a prepared bucket. The old gasket should be removed and a new one should be installed in its place. A small amount of sealant-lubricated oakum should be wound onto the pipe threads.
If a corroded pestilence has formed in the nut fixation area, the application of a clamp will help to eliminate the leak. Do not use welding to seal the flaw, as it is not recommended.к. This will weaken the pipe, which can provoke a breakthrough and flooding of the bathroom. However, please note that even the installation of a clamp gives only a short-term effect and the leak will appear again after a while. The best solution is to replace the underwater pipes and the towel radiator.
In some cases these methods of repair do not help eliminate the problem in the long term. The malfunction can occur due to a violation of the angle of the pipes during their installation and improper installation of the device. There is a high probability of appearance of a large gap between the first and the second.
In this case, the coupling nut can not be installed correctly. Even if you manage to tighten it, the effect will be temporary. The pipes and appliance must be repositioned and aligned. Т.к. the amount of work is large, a person who does not have the necessary skills and knowledge, to eliminate the malfunction is difficult. In such a situation, it is better to call specialists.
How to change the pipes in the bathroom with your own hands
Causes of leaks in the elements of the shower
How to fix a pipe leak in the bathroom
Find out why the heater does not work
The towel radiator becomes cold for several objective reasons. To solve the problem on your own, you either need to have a specialized education with experience in regular installation practice, or it is enough to follow these instructions precisely. This will help to identify all the existing shortcomings, fix the situation in the shortest possible time.
Designs of the heating device
In order not to get a cold towel dryer during operation, although there is hot water in the system, even at the stage of purchase of the heating device you should pay attention to its design.
U-shaped or M-shaped hinge
The simplest variant of a towel radiator (hereinafter referred to as a “loop”) are:
single loop. is U-shaped in plan, bent from a single piece of pipe or welded from two branches and two or three pieces of pipe;
From the point of view of thermal engineering and building hydraulics these modifications have the ideal shape and performance properties:
Can be built into a riser using a pair of bends;
- If U- or M-joints are inserted into the riser pipe without a bypass, no shut-off valve may be used;
- in parallel installations no valves are allowed to be cut into the bypass, but valves can be mounted below and above immediately after the tees.
The bypass need not be tapered and displaced in relation to the riser pipe axis. Due to the effect of differential pressure and temperature on the inlet / outlet of the towel radiator a hydraulic pump effect is provided. Due to what the hot water will be drawn into the side circuit with a probability of 100%.
You can get a cold towel rail here in two cases:
Unfortunately, U-shaped and M-shaped appliances have low decorative qualities in the interior.
Staircase and its varieties
The towel rail in the form of an attached tubular ladder has the following operational characteristics:
- Branches and branching inside;
- increased hydraulic losses;
At the bottom connection the towel dryer does not work in risers with a bottom water supply (upward flow) with a probability of 95. 100%. Therefore, diagonal or lateral installation is recommended.
When connecting the “staircase” to the riser with a downward flow of the coolant inside the heater, the following processes occur:
- Hot water enters the vertical part of the PS from above;
- then the boiling water flows into the horizontal pipes of the heater;
- In this case, the coolant begins to cool down;
- According to the laws of physics, cold (in fact, less warm compared to the rest of the flow) water tends to go down
- which coincides with the direction of the liquid in the riser pipe, into which it is ultimately removed.
That is, there is no countercurrent, there is a normal circulation, even when mounted on the riser.
If the supply is carried out laterally or diagonally, and the flow in the riser moves from the bottom up, the coolant circulates inside the circuit in question will be bad:
- Boiling water comes from below;
- The water tends upwards at first, but cools down in the radiator, which is in fact a “ladder”;
- Therefore there is a counter-current tending to the bottom of the heater.
In this case, the speed of circulation will depend on the pressure in the riser, the value of hydraulic losses. For example, when using tapered fittings, or long distance from the PS from the riser pipe at a time when the flow will not be able to push the cold water tending down, ie at the point of connection of the heat appliance.
Belonging to the riser, on which the PS is installed
Some apartment buildings physically do not have HTW lines. Instead, the apartments are equipped with flow-through water heaters, and less often with storage water heaters (popularly called “columns” and “boilers” respectively) for hot water supply to the users.
According to the existing construction and sanitary norms, it is forbidden to connect the PS to the water heaters. Therefore, in the sanitary unit may pass a riser to connect the towel radiator, belonging to both the heating system and the DHW line.
According to the SNiP norms the central heating system in an apartment building must meet the requirements:
- A heating main with the coolant having the temperature of 150 °С and the pressure of 6-10 bars is attached to the building;
- In the basement or technical basement is an elevator unit in which the pressure is reduced to 3. 6 bar, and the temperature to 95 ° C by mixing conditionally cold water from the return;
Therefore, the flow pattern of the coolant in all apartments will always be from top to bottom (downward flow). Downstream risers are again united into one common line, which is cut into the return, again, before the elevator node.
Attention: The heating medium will be heated in the boiler house only in the winter, during the heating season which lasts 6-8 months in Russia (depends on the region). With the onset of summer heating is turned off, respectively PS will be cold.
The only option to ensure performance all year round in this case is an electric towel rail.
The DHW system
According to the standard SanPiN 126.96.36.1996-09 the water in the hot water supply lines of an apartment building must have a temperature of 60°C and a pressure of 5 bar or more. The main differences between DHW and heating are:
The direction of movement of hot water in the riser pipe from the bottom up (upward flow) and in the opposite direction (two-pipe scheme);
The main causes of cold PS in this case are:
air congestion after the water in the house is turned off, but only in the heating devices of the “staircase” type;
Attention: It is forbidden to install circulation pumps in the circuits to connect the towel radiator.
In buildings with 1 to 3 floors, riser pipes are generally used as a one-way solution because the length of the pipework is halved. Accordingly, with closed faucets there will be no circulation, the water in the system, and in the PS, in particular, will cool down faster, harder.
Looped DHW networks have a scheme similar to the heating system. Boiling water flows up through one riser pipe and from there is distributed to several risers in the apartments. In this case there is an additional heater in the system. a boiler or a heat exchanger from the heating system.
When taps are closed in apartments, for example, at night, when the heat carrier in the house is not used for a long time, the water in the pipes cools down, goes down along the riser to the lower level. Then it enters the heat exchanger, heats, goes up again along the common supply riser. In this case, the PS always stays hot, the temperature does not depend on the flow of water in the building.
The presence of a bypass
In Soviet-era apartments we used self-made towel dryers, bent or, less often, welded from a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm. They cut directly into the riser break, so they are actually part of the riser. At present the standards SP prohibits the installation of towel heaters without a bypass. There are three variations of the bypass design. a bypass line:
This element becomes a part of the riser between the tapping into its supply and return from the PS;
In the first case, tees are used, the hydraulic losses in the system are minimal. However, some plumbers from the housing and utilities believe that the boiling water always takes the path of “least resistance”, and will not enter the branch towel dryer.
This would have been true, if not for the “hydraulic pump” effect. Due to the rapid cooling of the water in the PS, a flow is created, which draws the boiling water from the riser, and helps to leave the cooled water from the opposite end of the towel radiator.
Using a narrowed bypass in the installation of the Lesken PS.
However, 70% of users continue to shift the riser pipe inside or reduce its diameter by one size, so that the PS can normally work, for example, at a considerable distance from the riser of the high-rise building.
Note: Do not install shut-off valves on the bypass. Cocks/valves can be installed only on horizontal sections of the supply and return lines.
The reason that the heated towel rail in the bathroom, can stop stop valves. Inside it can fail shut-off unit (ball, needle) or the inner diameter is too narrowed, because of the increased hydraulic losses worsened circulation.
The upper parts of heating devices of the “ladder” model usually have built-in Maevsky cocks, which are not stop, but regulating fittings. Through them airlocks are blown.
M- or U-shaped towel dryer is very difficult to install incorrectly. However, this is possible if the heat device is located far from the riser. The general principle of connection is as follows:
- The tie-in point of the upper horizontal line in the riser must be higher than the upper opening of the PS;
- the bottom point of the tie-in horizontal line in the riser pipe, it is best to be located below the bottom hole of the PS.
At the same time, horizontal lines along the entire route of the route must not have loops rising above the top point of the heater. Otherwise, an air lock will collect in these loops, the circulation will become poor or will stop at all.
To fix the problem, you may need to remove the lining, plasterboard, if the pipe from the riser to the water outlet is laid concealed.
Very rarely, the PS will not heat after connection due to a mud plug. For example, this malfunction was encountered by the user in the video below:
For example, you bought an apartment in a new building, where the towel rail has not yet been installed, and the bathroom has not been used for a long time, but tie into the riser has been made. When the heating medium circulates, dirt is thrown into lines where there is no water movement.
Gradually clogging the inner cross-section of the pipes. In this case, the user must “blow” the pipes with mains pressure, even before installing the heater. This should be done one at a time by first opening one faucet or unscrewing the plug, then the second faucet.
A dirt plug will reduce or make it impossible to circulate if this is not done. Similarly, when buying a secondary property, where the previous owner of the PS was completely dismantled.
Incorrect installation of supply pipes can create the conditions for leaks. Such a malfunction is difficult to fix on their own. If the hot water supply pipes are installed crookedly, the risk of leaks increases. Repair work can have a short term positive effect. In this case it is advisable to install a device for closing the pipes tightly and install an electric towel dryer.
To fix an existing leak, it is important to understand how plumbing is installed. If a person has not previously had similar experience, it is better to leave the work to professionals. There are a number of rules to consider when making repairs.
There is hot water circulating in the coil. It should be shut off beforehand. If the liquid supply is cut off, you should not immediately begin repairing. You should wait for the unit to cool down. Prepare in advance a bucket and a cloth to flush the water out. Only after that can proceed to fix the existing defect.