Warm steam in a humidifier why

How to choose a humidifier with an air ionizer for the apartment

When choosing a humidifier with an ionizer you need to pay attention to the basic technical characteristics:

  • Power. The level of performance of the device should correspond to the area of the room.
  • Tank volume. It is most convenient to use units with a tank of 5-6 liters. such models require refueling once a day.
  • Noise level. It is desirable that the figure does not exceed 35dB, otherwise the working humidifier will cause irritation.
  • The presence of filters. A good device must have not only demineralizing, but also antibacterial and anti-allergenic elements.

If the unit is to be used in a small room, a passive ionization module will be sufficient. For a large room is better to buy a humidifier with an additional fan, contributing to the distribution of negatively charged particles in the space.

Warning! The concentration of anions emitted by the device should be 600-5000 per 1 cm3.

How to choose a humidifier for your home (in theory)

Let me tell you right away that in most living spaces the humidity does not go below 10-20% in winter even without humidification, so humidification is a “pleasant and useful bonus”, rather than an urgent need.

The easiest way to implement it is to hang the laundry in the apartment. You won’t get consistently good humidity, but you will get better humidity for half a day.

Why is there a need for humidification in winter.

People need oxygen to breathe, and if a person is indoors, this oxygen must be supplied in sufficient quantity from the surrounding air in order to breathe.

It can come, as a rule, through mechanical ventilation ducts (if you are a major and you live in a premium house), through wall or window valves, through open windows or shutters, through cracks in the doors, and the classics. through gaps in windows. т.н. draughts. The windows that saw Brezhnev blew through the cracks not only because they were made that way, but primarily because they were designed that way.

The amount of water vapor in the air depends primarily on the temperature of the ambient air, e.g. at outside temperature.25#xB0;C the air can absorb maximum 0,5 g of water per 1 kg of air, then at 22#xB0;C it can already absorb 17 g.

The amount of moisture in the air (g/kg) is called absolute humidity, but we are all used to using relative humidity. by the ratio of the current moisture content to its absolute amount. This is due to the fact that our body, for the most part, does not really care how many g/kg of water in the air, but how much % of the maximum amount is very important.

So somehow the temperature of the street air.25#xB0;C and 80% humidity (t.е. 80% of 0.5 g/kg or 0.4 g/kg) comes into the room and suddenly mixes with the air with the temperature or is heated to 22#xB0;C so 0.4 g/kg becomes (0.4 (g/kg) / 17 (g/kg)) with only 2.5% moisture.

It is desirable to humidify these 2.5% to at least a minimum of 40% that is comfortable for our body.

But according to the laws of fucking physics for evaporation of 1 kg of water you need to supply some energy. Electric energy to boil it, or heat energy, as a rule, from the air or from our body in case of water evaporation in the lungs.

In theory this is 0.705 kWh to evaporate 1 kg of moisture, in practice more, but not much.

How much moisture and thus energy is needed for an average apartment:

Since the regulations require an air supply to an apartment of about 100m3/h, to humidify them to at least 40% you need about (100 (m3/h) 1.2 (kg/m3) ((17(g/kg)0.4(% humidity))-0.4(g/kg)) = 768 g/h, using at least 0.54 kW of energy. either electrical or thermal from the air in the room.

But taking into account that people in the process of breathing exude moisture, this minimum may well be reduced to 500. 600 g/h and correspondingly 0.35. 0,45 kW.

Often even less t.к. not all incoming air has to be humidified, t.к. for example the air sucked through the front door usually goes straight to the bathroom or kitchen hood, where the humidity is ok, and I think many people will survive dry air in the corridor.

If you live in a new house or just buy an apartment. Ask the project of ventilation of the building (section 5, subsection 4, and then let them look for themselves) and substitute your values in the formula air exchange.

This is theory, then will go “almost theory”

Vicks Warm Steam Vaporizer | How to Make it Steam

All humidifiers according to physical laws are divided into two types. isothermal and adiabatic. Yeah yeah, I’m a nerd.

Isothermal. the same as an ordinary steam kettle works on two principles TEN and electrode.

TEN, in fact, is an ordinary kettle in which water is heated and then evaporated by heating elements.

Electrode is a little more interesting, but unfortunately I have not met any household humidifiers.

Adiabatic. These are ultrasonic and surface (so-called air washers).

They evaporate water by drawing heat away from the surrounding air, but have different principles of operation.

In the ultrasonic elements vibration occurs (in slang they are called tablets), which “breaks” the surface tension force of water and crushes it into small drops, which then fall into the room and evaporate, cooling it.

Surface humidifiers with a small pump water is taken from the pallet, where the water is poured, and fed to a surface that has a very large area of evaporation at a relatively small volume. cells, honeycombs, drums, etc.д. Part of the water evaporates, also cooling the air, but most of it drains back to go in a circle again.

How to choose a humidifier. See my calculation of the desired amount of moisture and compare it to the information on the nameplate of the humidifier. For new homes. Find out from the builder or property manager the estimated airflow rate and replace it with the calculated airflow rate.

To understand the pros and cons of different humidifiers, you must first start from the principle of operation.

They eat a lot of electricity. which is the most expensive energy resource.

If you take 0.35 kW and multiply it by the number of hours in a month, it’s about 250 kWh. Of course in life is less, t.к. There’s also the non-simultaneous use factor and the loading percentage, etc.д.

Salts from water remain on heating elements and walls of the humidifier and must be cleaned. Better with weak organic acids like acetic, citric, orthophosphoric. But afterwards, be sure to rinse well, at least until the smell is gone, t.к. The vapors of the acids that are not rinsed off will get into the air.

Produces almost perfectly sterile steam that has no effect on human health except as a positive.

Ultrasonic adiabatic air humidifiers:

Cons:Because they simply “splash” the water that is poured into them, and the water evaporates directly into the surrounding air, respectively, and all the salts contained in the water ends up in the air and subsequently in the best place where they can be deposited. human lungs.

Yes, those are the dreaded PM 1.0 and PM 2.5 MPC of which in case of pouring tap water will be greatly exceeded. And that in addition to dust around the room causes nasopharyngeal diseases and lung cancer. And if the nasopharynx I think we can live with, with the latter we should not joke.

Water should be filled only after desalting with a good reverse osmosis.

They take the energy of the air from the room, which humidify. This energy is about 4 times cheaper than electricity, and is unfortunately 99.99% distributed to the entire house.

Compared to a TEN, it’s much less likely to need to be cleaned.

What is a “good” reverse osmosis and will the one that many thinking about it have under the sink work:

Rent or buy a device to measure the electrical conductivity of water, and you can even take it to the lab, of which there are hundreds in Moscow or St. Petersburg and look at the value.

If a few dozen microSiemens per cm. norms.

If hundreds of microSiemens per cm. think about whether or not reverse osmosis works ? And of course do not pour.

Separate case. Along with the salt removal of the water under your sink is the addition of the “right” salts with a mineralizer. Try to see if you can draw water after reverse osmosis, but before salinity.

Do not fill the water is exposed to strong microbiological contamination (from the pond, etc.), or do not use water that has a high probability of degradation.д.), up to and including death.

Surface adiabatic humidifiers (air washers):

Energy is 4 times cheaper and distributed. Basically the same as in the previous case.

Due to the fact that evaporation occurs on the surface, almost all the salts are either deposited on it, or remain in the pan.

On the wetting surface also fall and remain in the pan all the inorganic, and especially organic contaminants (particles of skin, hair, wool, etc.).

As long as the humidifier works, and if you do not live in Sochi, it is not particularly terrible, t.к. The temperature of the water in the sump is relatively low and close to the temperature of a wet thermometer, which in most regions is not enough for the reproduction of fungi (not to be confused with fungi) and bacteria.

But once it has stood, the temperature of the water in the pan approaches room temperature and an orgy begins amid traces of organic contamination, the result of which, when turned on, spores of fungi, bacteria and other filth will fly into the air.

Yes, that legionellosis. “air conditioner disease” is a disease of humidification systems specifically, t.к. even its name came from the fact that people died from an “industrial humidifier” emission from which went into the central air conditioner, t.е. into the vent.

The only way. Do not turn it off and check for a good wattage ultraviolet lamp.

What is “good” power I do not know. For industrial systems by the dozens. Hundreds of kilograms is 200-500W, can this be linearly extrapolated to domestic. I don’t know, but there’s probably.

Warm steam.”. no benefit, except that you are trying to sell an ultrasonic humidifier under the guise of a steam.

“Silver rod.”. they put in “chinese” stainless steel with 0.0000000001 ng silver plaque.

“99.99% protection against bacteria or something.”. If it is not a steam humidifier, ask for a test report according to AHRI, TUV, etc.д. I am just as certain that this is not a claim to have such a document, but simply a “marketing name” that has nothing to do with actually causing serious health damage to poor bacteria.

This is exactly a theoretical release. There will be no practical!

I do not want to and will not give advice on any specific models or firms here or later!

Criticism of “practitioners” in the style of, I do not have a humidifier, but the humidity is 50% or pour ultrasonic from the tap and all ok. this theoretical part, you can pour water even from a pond, or build your statements based on the readings of the moisture sensor from Ali (nothing against it, I myself buy it there).

warm, steam, humidifier

To the criticism of professionals is ready to answer in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. Yes I know that all written by some simplification, but if it were not for this simplification article would be 3-5 times more (only on the basis of my knowledge), and if we take the knowledge of professionals taking into account the nuances of different premises of buildings, etc.д., why do books of 500-1000 pages come out every time?

Just a critique. I’m ready to learn everything, except russian. Yes he is native, yes graduated from college, but that’s how it is.

I will repeat. The article is the first, I hope you won’t drown in minuses.

If it does not sink in, I will offer in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев of the next topic, well, or consider yours!

If you have any questions, I will try to answer them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, or answer “I do not know, or do not want to answer.

If it is allowed to leave e-mails here. write to [emailprotected]

I go there rarely, but I will try to answer.

Dedicated to the memory of Eugene Petrovich Vishnevsky, the popularized thermophysicist!

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Oh, I do not know so many letters you have a theory, and without specificity)) I will add a little bit of empirical practice to the theory.

I think I have my 4th and 5th humidifier, ultrasonic, all different.

Why you need them in my experience (just talking about ultrasonic humidifiers here and below):

Everyone tolerates humidity differently, I have, in recent years, at a humidity of 20-25% (winter apartment, temperature 24), all in the nose dries up and I start to get sick in a few days. To avoid this at night I turn on a stationary humidifier in the bedroom (4.5 liters), it has a timer, hygrometer and mode to maintain optimal (in terms of humidifier) humidity (about 50-60%). I turn off the timer for 2 hours and go to sleep, usually enough. And during the day, when I work at the computer, I put a portable one next to it (I think it is a liter and a half). It is mechanical without any frills, only with a regulator of evaporation intensity. It saves me a hell of a lot of money! Before that, I could not figure out what it was for two years, only the New Year’s holiday begins, and on the 3rd of the month I get sick, although the “submarine” did not go out.

I have the same procedure when I really fall ill. the cough/sniffles seem to go quicker and the sleep is lighter.

In summer, my wife is allergic to something and the pills don’t take off completely, but when she has a bad case of the stuff, she sits under the humidifier too and it helps.

They say it helps to cure children faster (probably by the same items 1,2 it seems that children are more sensitive to humidity), but this information is not 100%, no children, I have not checked.

I have 2 small hygrometers in the bedroom and the living room. I use them to check the humidity and turn on the humidifiers when it drops below 30% in winter.

How to choose with these inputs and practical tips.

It’s very individual. If you think that it will help you, but you do not want to spend too much, then try to buy a simple mechanical first without any frills (a liter and a half two), only with adjustable intensity, which you can comfortably drag around the house.

If it helps, you have more than one room and you only sleep at home, you can stop there.

If it helps, more than one room in the house and you are home all the time, it makes sense to buy a second humidifier stationary for the bedroom. Of the useful features for one of these, it’s worth looking at:

There are all sorts of other functions, but I did not use them, somehow not needed. Also, the non-backlit touch buttons are not visible at night, but in principle, you get used to finding them pretty quickly as it is. I call the 4-5 liter stationary, because it is not very convenient to carry them around. But it is convenient that every night is not necessary to add water, which is sometimes strongly steamed when you’re about to go to bed.

You need to buy water or use purified water (I buy, so osmosis did not try, but in theory, should help). I buy drinking water that’s sold in five liters or bottled. If you have a transparent kettle, boil the water in it, if after boiling no sediment falls out, the water is fine. I have no buildup from such bottled water.

Every couple of weeks to a month you need to clean it. Pour what has accumulated there, wash, fill with warm water, sprinkle a little citric acid, wait, drain, rinse.

If you stop using the water need to drain, and do steps on the p.2

You never know how long it will last, so it’s better to buy closer to winter and the first year is a good “drive” while under warranty. I had my first 3 break in the first year and were returned. Repair is not particularly worth the hope and bind to a model, too, as rulers are changing rapidly and if something serious cracks, you can not find parts for 100% information, the last two have been working for two years, so that the situation may have changed somehow)

The noise and gurgles, different in different ways, those that are more expensive noise is less, but not so that just completely silent. If you can sleep with a portable, a stationary will do, they are more expensive, usually less noisy.

In general, it’s the kind of thing that can make life easier, but to look after it, too, such that turned on and forgot, I think there is no (for reasonable money, at least).

I looked in the range of 1.5-8 thousand, two years ago. Simple portable you could buy a half, and a stationary with features have somewhere from 4 and up. The upper limit is not really there)). After trying how quickly they break, I gave up thinking that you can buy more expensive, but like a long time. I do not know, maybe for 40 thousand will last 20 years, but I am greedy))

The more functions, the more expensive, out of the stationary for 8 I use half, no remote control, it seems to me even unnecessary thing. In general you can buy a simple mechanical device of big volume and make automatics by yourself. I bought a hygrometer on alishke with automatic on / off by a set value of humidity, screwed to a mechanical pilot, I think that the timer can be screwed. But Alishka is no good, so self-made thing is not much cheaper, looks monstrous, so I gave up the idea. But maybe my hands are crooked, I do not know)) Now I think we just need a mechanical regulator of vaporization power and off timer, so you can make it cheaper. Now I would not buy a thing with an automatic hygrometer. There is no sense to maintain humidity, or only in the bedroom and certainly not 50-60%. I used to put one of these for fun, you wake up in the middle of the night in a fog)) I don’t think it has any positive effect on furniture and clothes. Although breathe, of course, good.

In general, for me all the other functions (including humidity, if there is a timer switch off) is just marketing and, accordingly, rip-off bribes. So do not overpay for nothing.

But of course, see for yourself. I got a lot of notes too, brevity is not my strong suit, I forgot to tell you right away.

Nice, but unnecessary functions

Air purification. If the ultrasonic humidifier has filters, the manufacturer usually states this function, if the filters are antibacterial. states loudly. But still a humidifier is not an air purifier, its air-cleaning action can only be auxiliary. If you have serious health problems. Allergies, asthma. we recommend an air purifier. possibly with humidification. Filters need to be replaced. an additional expense item. All this does not concern devices with traditional humidifying method. filters are compulsory there, and if they are antibacterial. so much the better.

Aromatization of the air. It is usually recommended to pour the fragrance into a special capsule through which the air is drawn. Do not use fragrances (as a rule, they have an oil base) in devices without such a thing, pouring them simply into the water. you will ruin the device.

Ionization. It is believed that the enrichment of the air negative charged particles. ions that have the property to attract and retain moisture, contributes to better humidification. The ionization is optimal if it is switched off.

Water illumination. In this case, the humidifier can work as a night lamp. It is important that the backlight can be turned off when necessary.

Which steam humidifier is best for your home

When choosing a steam humidifier, you need to pay attention to the main technical characteristics. In general, you need to consider the same parameters as when buying an ultrasonic or traditional device.


When buying a steam humidifier, you need to look at the treatment of which area it is designed. Compact devices are usually designed to improve the air quality on 15-20 m 2. powerful models can cope with rooms of 50-60 m 2. although more space is needed for their installation.

Noise level

Steam humidifier can not be completely silent, because it boils water before the suspension is fed into the environment. But it is recommended to choose models with a noise level of about 35 dB. such devices do not cause irritation during operation.

Attention! Steam humidifiers are recommended for daytime use. At night, even the soft bubbling of water and other sounds disturb quiet rest.

Maximum steam temperature

Steam outlet temperature for different models of humidifiers can range from 60 to 80 ° C. If there are animals or small children in the house, it is better to choose a device with minimum ratings to avoid accidental burns.

Humidity control

Good models of steam units have a built-in hygrostat that displays the humidity level in the room. The sensor helps to understand when it is necessary to start the device and at what moment it can be turned off.

Cold and hot steam humidifiers

Among electrical household equipment, a special place is occupied by a humidification system, the basis of which is a hot or cold humidifier. Both versions differ in principle of operation and purpose. Cold steam humidifiers, unlike hot steam humidifiers, do not heat water. It is in the second case, under the influence of temperature, steam is formed, through which the saturation of the room with moisture takes place. And in the first case the steam is obtained by splitting the water into droplets with the help of vibration. But in any case the humidifier uses the cold steam for its intended purpose. And it is a special vessel in which, as in a household kettle, the liquid turns into steam. But in a hot device it is brought to 100 degrees. In addition, unlike a pot or kettle, the cold humidifier has a slightly different design.

Humidifiers. Steam or cold?

All humidifiers on the market can be divided into two large groups: with warm steam; with cold steam. Which one is better??. an issue that needs to be considered in detail. Both types humidify the room, maintain optimal levels of moisture in the air, saving you from problems with dry skin, mucous membranes and static electricity. “Cold” humidifiers The main advantage of such devices is the absence of a heating element. They evaporate water naturally. Inside the adiabatic type humidifier are plastic discs that act as an evaporative element. A fan draws water from the room and runs it through these rotating discs, causing the water to rise up. Cool steam perfectly humidifies the air regardless of the room temperature. It is true that “cold” humidifiers should be chosen with a temperature and humidity sensor. Otherwise there is a risk of over-humidity, which means sticky skin, mold growth, and active growth of pathogenic bacteria, which in turn would lead to health problems. Ultrasonic humidifiers with a cold type of steam require the use of distilled water, otherwise there will be white fouling in the room. Is there a cold steam humidifier without such problems? Of course. This is a Sharp humidifier based on the principle of natural moisture evaporation. Four-stage air purifying system including a HEPA filter trapping more than 650 kinds of pathogenic bacteria and germs and highly sensitive humidity, temperature, pollution and odor sensors. This maintains the optimal level of relative humidity in the room, eliminates harmful microorganisms and no white stain, even when using regular tap water. “Warm” humidifiers Unlike cold humidifiers, warm steam can burn the mucous in the nasal passages if such a humidifier is placed too close to the bed. That is why they are not recommended for use in children. They have a heating element, so they require only distilled water. Otherwise, you will have white plaque in your room. Steam humidifiers increase the temperature of the air, so in summer time, they will create discomfort in the room. They promote the growth of bacteria, mold fungi, which means you need additional protection against harmful microorganisms. air purifiers and ionizers.

Humidifier: buy or make? Difficult Choices

Winter has come, the heating season and the question of humidification is relevant again (“If the outside air is much colder than comfortable, it is heated, which leads to a decrease in relative humidity. This is because heating increases the temperature, but does not increase the amount of moisture in the air”). Even the pediatrician said that the child will get sick less if the humidity is kept normal (“Over-drying the air causes increased evaporation of moisture from everywhere: from the skin and from the human body and pets, indoor plants, from wall covering, furniture, musical instruments, parquet, books, paintings and other items made of hygroscopic materials, which is harmful to the health of inhabitants and preservation of objects.”). Here’s a promotional video that confirms what was said

The only problem is that there is no optimal way to humidify. all have serious drawbacks and obvious advantages. And installing an aquarium at home is not in the plans. An overview of existing approaches, as well as do-it-yourself designs is below. I hope, someone will help to make their choice, and who has already done. share their impressions with the community. Commercially available humidifiers differ in the way they evaporate, the size of the area to be served (intensity of evaporation), additional functions (cleaning, ionization, aromatization) and other minor parameters.

Steam humidifier (“hot evaporation”)

Steam humidifiers work like electric kettles. For intense evaporation, the water in them portion heated to boiling. Steam humidifiers must have a hygrostat (humidity sensor) that turns off the device when the humidity is reached, otherwise the humidity in the room could greatly exceed the optimal level. Steam humidifiers can raise the humidity in the room to a saturated steam state and beyond, which in turn leads to the formation of fog (water condensation suspended in the air) and dew (water condensation on hard surfaces). Mist and dew from a steam humidifier actually consists of distilled water, since they were formed from steam, so when you reduce the relative humidity in the room of such condensation evaporates without residue. The capacity can be 7-16 liters per day at a power consumption of 300-600 watts The cost of most models on the market in the area of 80.

Ultrasonic humidifier

Ultrasonic humidifiers are considered the most effective humidifiers available. Such humidifiers produce fog by knocking tiny water droplets out of water surface by ultrasonic vibrations generated by a piezoelectric transducer. Mist is dispersed around the room by natural air currents or by forced air (e.g. by fans). After some time (depending on the relative humidity in the room), the mist particles turn into vapor during natural evaporation, which leads to an increase in relative air humidity. Some of the fog can settle on solid surfaces before evaporation. Since the fog particles were obtained from the water in the humidifier by mechanical means, they contain everything that was in the water of the humidifier’s working volume. hardness salts, microorganisms, etc.п. After evaporation of the mist, everything that was dissolved or suspended in its water component becomes a dry residue. For this reason only distilled water should be used. The typical capacity of ultrasonic humidifiers. 7-12 liters per day. Power consumption. 40-50 W (in the presence of an element for heating water power can exceed 125 watts). The most popular humidifiers at the moment, offers on the market range from 20 to 300. However, if you do not use distilled water (20 liters will cost from 150, from 30 hryvnia), all surfaces in the house are covered with white salt stains.

Air washer (aka “traditional”, “cold evaporation”)

The humidifying element is a drum of hydrophilic disks slowly rotating around the horizontal axis. Below the axis of rotation the discs submerge in water and get wet, and above the discs get blown around by an air stream produced by a fan and dry out, moistening the air. If the air stream contains dust particles, they are likely to stick to the wet surface of the disc and be washed off when the disc segment is immersed in water of the humidifier’s working volume. Thus, the air flow coming out of the humidifier is cleaner and more humid than the air coming in.

Tap water can be used to fill the air washer. There is only one quality requirement: the water must be free from undesirable odours. Cold humidifier capacity. 3,5-17,5 liters per day. Power consumption. 3-60 W. This type of humidifier would probably be the best. but for one thing: with the ridiculous simplicity of design cheap air washers do not exist in principle. the cost is from 200 to 1000.

Summary table of advantages and disadvantages

Type of humidifier Advantages Advantages Disadvantages
Steam High humidifying capacity; Water is cleaned by evaporation of nonvolatile impurities; Easy maintenance. does not require consumables. High power consumption; Raises room temperature.
Ultrasonic Precise control of humidity if equipped with a humidistat; High humidification performance; The temperature of the steam is almost room temperature; Low noise level. Expensive to maintain. mandatory use of distilled water or special water filters (reverse osmosis filter saves the situation); Requires frequent addition of water, since the capacity of these humidifiers is limited; In the absence of hygrostat in the device is very easy to over-humidify the air, which leads to the effect of bath: objects, clothes, clothes become wet.
Cold evaporation Low power consumption; Do not over humidify; Clean and humidify at the same time; No consumables required (except tap water); Safe for children. Relatively large size of devices; The need for frequent maintenance of working surfaces. to clean the fouling and change the water; High cost.

Existing do-it-yourself approaches

Perhaps the main advantage of homemade humidifiers is the pleasure of the work done and the low cost of the product. The most original homemade humidifiers, found on the Internet:

Use of central heating battery

This is the easiest but also the most unproductive. according to some reports up to 0.5 liters. In addition, the speed of evaporation depends strongly on the temperature of the battery, the humidity in the room and the evaporation area. The use of wet towels causes the battery to corrode and needs to be repainted.

Cold evaporation designs

What these designs have in common is an increased evaporation area (by using gauze, rags, paper towels, etc.).) and wide use of computer fans. People use buckets, laundry containers, and even particle board crates as containers. Water-vaporizing gauze needs to be changed often, t.к. get contaminated by settling dust, then the water starts to bloom and “smell”. According to reviews, these units can evaporate several liters per day, which is obviously not enough for full-fledged humidification, but at least something.

Makeshift air washers

People here are mostly experimenting with CDs, less often with gramophone records. One of the main places of discussion is the IXBT forum: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?ID=print:64:2746 Such designs are the most productive of DIY designs, but also higher labor costs, worse aesthetics and noise qualities (you hear water overflow).

If you already use a humidifier. share your experiences in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев. I also have yet to make a choice in favor of one or the other.

Type 4: Climatic complexes

Climatic complexes are home appliances that perform a large number of functions to improve the atmosphere in the room.

Humidification. Operates as in traditional humidifiers air is humidified by natural water evaporation. Humidity level can be maintained within a set range. Performance of the humidifier decreases when the humidity level in the room increases.

Air purification. To clean the air in climatic complexes several types of filters are used, for cleaning the air, at once several types of dust (of different size and origin). An air purifier can filter out dust, bacteria, dust mites, exhaust fumes and smog from the city, tobacco smoke, etc.д.

Air ionizer. All climatic complexes have a built-in air ionizer. It saturates the air with oxygen ions.

Air Aromatization. There is a special capsule containing oils in the climate complex. It can be used to aromatize the air in the room.

Small size with big features.

Maximum achievable humidification level 60%

Periodic replacement of consumables.

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