To date, the products of this brand enjoy a record and well-deserved demand. By the way, this is also true for those who, for one reason or another, make a choice in favor of manual dishwashing. Fairy detergents differ from their nearest competitors by being economical and highly effective. As practice shows, they can easily cope even with the most stubborn stains.
Another important point is the safety of the gel for the skin of the hands. However, it is worth finding out if Fairy dishwasher tablets (capsules) are also so effective. Will they adequately cope with their tasks and whether they are guaranteed safe? Answers to such questions are relevant given the impressive cost of the products in question. In order to save money, many housewives prefer to buy large (up to 140 pcs.) packaging.
What some call tablets are compact pads. The manufacturer positions them as a universal cleanser. The contents of each capsule is in a dissolving shell. In the list of its components, in addition to direct cleaning, there are also protective and softening elements (up to 10 additives). The pad itself is divided into two parts. The first contains a powerful washing powder, while the second contains two active gels.
In practice, the capsules of this brand are suitable for all models of modern washing machines. Another major plus is the availability of different number of tablets in the packs.
Particular attention should be paid to the list of ingredients in the detergent described. It is the active elements that will determine the quality of washing the dishes, as well as the service life of the appliances.
Dishwasher capsules have the following ingredients.
- Chlorine. It is one of the most hazardous elements for human health, which is used less and less frequently for disinfecting both the object to be washed and the water itself. By the way, a number of EU countries have already banned the use of certain chlorine-containing solutions.
- Sodium citrate is needed for foaming and effective disinfection. This substance is included in the list of food additives permitted in the territory of the Russian Federation.
- Persol (sodium percarbonate). element with good bleaching property. It makes the process of washing dishes in the washing machine much easier through the effective breakdown of stubborn dirt.
- Sodium disilicate (liquid soap). a substance, one of the main objectives of which is to soften the water used and to prevent deposits on machine parts.
- Sodium gluconate. prevents the formation of lime scale.
- Calcined soda. softens the water.
- Baking soda. an element that softens water with high salt content.
- Isoctyl glucoside is a component that makes washed dishes literally shine.
- Sorbitol is an effective thickening agent, responsible for the homogeneity of the detergent.
- Glycerin. provides viscosity of the product and maintains a similar consistency.
- Acetic acid. an element that allows you to get rid of limescale, inevitably formed on the parts of the washing machine.
- Protease and amylase and protease. components responsible for the breakdown of proteins and carbohydrates, which makes it easy to get rid of even stale food residues on dishes.
- Subtilisin is an effective remedy for removing fat formations.
- Surfactants. provide quality treatment by separating water molecules and fat.
Taking into account the main characteristics stated by the manufacturer, as well as user feedback, we can highlight the key advantages of Fairy tablets:
- high-quality dishwashing and parallel cleaning of the dishwasher itself from grease;
- Ease of use (no need to open the package);
- after washing and rinsing the product does not leave streaks;
- good odor.
Many housewives think that the cost of the pads is a disadvantage. No less important for many was the difficulty in dividing the capsules into two parts. The fact is that at minimum machine loads, some people prefer to pour half the contents of the tablet.
As has been pointed out, they are water soluble. On that basis, you need to prevent premature moisture.
Dishwasher questions, help?
Dishwasher from Ikea gave us my mother-in-law, just surprised, thank you Never in my life I had such a thing. Honestly, dishes, if the water is hot, I’ve been washing all my life without stress, even like to rub with baking soda to make them shine. I just don’t like cold and all sorts of pans-pans-protwins to wash off. Where you have to go to the trouble. I like to watch things get clean.
In short. My husband called a plumber, and connected this miracle-technique. Stuck a few things in, told me to watch it to see if it would leak anywhere and left. Said there was a manual somewhere.
I felt like a total jerk. First, it is described in detail how to pour salt, depending on the hardness of water (find out the hardness of water in teplovodokanal). I didn’t know it needed salt at all.
QUESTION 1: If you use dishwasher tablets, do you need salt. You do?? It’s some kind of special salt and it’s a must?
The following is a description of the rinse aid. Like if there is no rinse aid, it will be beeping. And if you get streaks on the dishes, add rinse aid. My oldest daughter is allergic. I figured there’s nothing better than water for us, so I decided to choose a program where it doesn’t beep if there’s no rinse aid.
QUESTION 2: Is rinse aid compulsory?? I don’t care about streaks, I just don’t want anything on the dishes or else we’ll be treated. Or vice versa, it makes the dishes rinse better? Or what?
Next, I continued to feel like a jerk. Because the detailed explanation of how to select the mode sounds necessary or not. You have described it in detail. How to choose a mode with and without rinse aid, also in detail. But in the place of the program selection mode, it only came to 2 buttons (the words are named) to select the program And that’s it. It doesn’t say how to choose this program. And I just watched the videos on YouTube. how to turn on the dishwasher There no one bothers with the question of how to select the program But it is necessary to explain, such as I I got to me only by time which was obtained on the display, what exactly I chose, I understand.
Just poke and go, it did not wash everything, for example, now I know that the forks should not stack, and put in a special box But the pot one washed one, the other is not One smooth, straight, the second enameled such a rounded bit. I even got upset and called my friend. She says it doesn’t always wash her pans either but I thought my husband was just poking something quick for an hour. I chose the second time already a good long program with a high temperature by myself. And I started it up again.
QUESTION 3: Does it always wash your pots and pans?? What tips do you have to make it clean better?
I bought two kinds of tablets. Our Ariel and Finnish Finish. I don’t know which is best.
QUESTION 4: What’s the best way to wash dishes. What do you use and are you satisfied with?
Thank you to everyone who responded. And please keep your Комментарии и мнения владельцев in the spirit of. my grandmother used a dishwasher, ugh, you’re from the countryside, you don’t know anything. to yourself.
Fairy All in 1 Dishwasher Capsules
Fairy All in 1 is in the form of a capsule or tablet with powder, as well as a special gel that allows you to properly wash grease and other dirt, even ingrained. Gives shine to your dishes and can be used not only in hot but also in warm water. The capsules dissolve quite quickly and are distinguished by their water-soluble packaging, which means you don’t have to contact the product and open it. Fairy All in 1 tablets wash delicate silverware and glassware very gently and are also effective in preventing limescale deposits, as they include a salt and rinse aid function.
The Fairy All in 1 capsules must be used strictly according to the instructions: put it in the special tray, but if it does not fit in there, you can put the tablet in the cutlery basket. Experts do not recommend using such tablets for washing antique dishes, Chinese porcelain or crystal. Store the product in a dark place at a temperature not exceeding 35 0 C. Today you can buy Fairy All in 1 in 26, 39, 52 and 65 packs. The bigger the package, the better the purchase price.
How to choose a dishwasher: we help you decide on the criteria
In our opinion, choosing a dishwasher for your home is quite a simple task: you don’t need to compare models according to dozens of parameters, and most of these parameters will be simple and intuitive.
However, as in most cases, before you start choosing, you have to decide whether you need one or another of the stated functions. This will not only minimize the number of specific models among which to make the final choice, but also, perhaps, will help not to overpay for unnecessary options.
As always with our appliance guides, we try to avoid value judgments and straightforward advice, preferring instead to educate the user on making their own choices. Thus, our task is to tell you what dishwashers are, how they differ, and how these differences can affect the operation process.
Type and size
As you know, among kitchen appliances, the most common widths are 45 and 60 centimeters. Dishwashers are no exception. the vast majority are either narrow (45-50 cm wide) or full-size (60 cm wide). The height of both will be about 85 centimeters, and in most cases it can be adjusted by changing the length of the legs: this will allow you to fix the recessed dishwasher directly under the countertop. depth of overwhelming majority of dishwashers is standard 60 cm. The key difference between a full-sized and a compact dishwasher is the amount of dishes you can wash at a time. On average, a narrow model has room for 9-10 sets of dishes, a full-sized model has room for up to 16.
Compact dishwashers should be singled out in a separate category. Like their older counterparts, they are freestanding or built-in. Such dishwasher height will be about 45 cm, which makes it possible to save space significantly. Compact models have a capacity of one to five loads.
The choice of dishwasher type (built-in or freestanding) is usually a matter of taste. over, you can often save money on a freestanding appliance, which is usually cheaper. Built-in or partially built-in dishwasher (with an open control panel located on the outer side of the door) will require purchase of the overhead kitchen front, allowing it to fit in with the general kitchen interior, and the fully built-in and even hide among the kitchen cabinets.
But the size of the device is better to choose on the basis of the number of people living in the apartment, and on the basis of the preferred scenario of using the dishwasher. Even if only one person lives in the apartment, the options are different: some people are used to having a couple of plates and washing dishes daily, while others prefer to have a large supply of clean dishes, allowing them to run the dishwasher less often.
Capacity and internal space organization
Dishwasher manufacturers usually assess their capacity in sets. This obvious parameter will tell you how many dishes will fit in the dishwasher at maximum load. The minimum, which is presented on the modern market 4 sets of dishes. 17 sets max.
A set is considered a complete set of cutlery for one person, consisting of seven items: a salad plate, a plate for the first course, a plate for the second course, a loaf plate, a cup or saucer for dessert, two spoons or two forks.
You might have noticed that we don’t even talk about glasses, mugs, pots and pans. but in reality they can take up over 50% of the dishwasher’s capacity.
Small countertop dishwashers are the simplest: they most often have one pull-out basket, in which a separate basket for cutlery is installed.
All other narrow or wide, freestanding or built-in dishwashers, as a rule, have one of two layouts: classic or modern.
Classic layout: bottom basket for large dishes, top basket for smaller items. Cutlery is placed in a separate basket, which is placed in the lower basket.
Not so long ago, as an alternative to the classic layout, the option with three baskets: bottom, middle and top was used.
The role of the bottom basket has not changed, the top basket is now the middle basket, and at the very top is a horizontal sliding tray, which replaces the cutlery basket. Whereas in the basket they used to be placed vertically, now they are placed horizontally on the tray.
As far as we know, there are no serious studies proving that the modern layout is more efficient than the classic one in terms of dishwashing. However, most manufacturers are gradually abandoning the classic layout. In our experience, it’s not more efficient, but more convenient to place cutlery evenly on the tray.
On the other hand, adding another horizontal tray steals more height. Some users who have switched from a classic to a modern dishwasher have complained that the lower basket used to allow higher items to be placed.
The middle (upper) basket can be adjustable in height.
There can also be quite unusual (but from a user’s point of view very convenient) solutions in luxury segment dishwashers. For example, a lifting bottom basket, which allows you not to bend over for the dishes, and when putting them away.
The way you stack your dishes depends on the specific model and the design of its baskets, and unfortunately, a quick glance at a dishwasher in a store or online will hardly help you judge (let alone compare) their effectiveness. Practice shows that in this case, a person is more likely to adjust to the technology over time than vice versa.
How bad or good the dishes are washed depends, among other things, on how well they are stacked. Experienced dishwasher owners have been honing this skill for years, and when you change models you sometimes have to start all over again.
Many models will include holders or a separate shelf for fragile bowls, special rubber nozzles for fragile dishes and similar solutions. Understandably, not all of them will prove useful and find use, but when choosing a dishwasher, it’s not unreasonable to ask how exactly the manufacturer decided to improve your experience with the appliance.
Washing class is a rather difficult category to understand, which is determined by means of test washes of specially soiled dishes. If the dishes are perfectly clean, the machine is assigned a class A. Class C for light soiling.
In fact, the vast majority of models on the market have a class A or B, and we are far from sure if the user can distinguish them in real life, not laboratory conditions.
Almost all dishwashers (apart from the miniature countertop models) now come with three spray arms. one lower, one middle and one upper. The bottom one is usually the largest. The classic design is a rotating beam with holes, from which the water flows under pressure.
But there are also more exotic designs. For example, Electrolux uses this bottom sprayer option in their mid- and high-end dishwashers.
The middle spray arm is usually a smaller bead, positioned under the upper (middle) basket.
The top one is located on the ceiling of the washing chamber. At best it’s just another rocker.
But sometimes it’s just a normal spray nozzle for simplicity.
To sum up: in general, identical construction often results in identical wash results: most modern dishwashers wash dishes in much the same way. There’s even an opinion (though we have no objective proof of it) that nowadays washing efficiency depends more on a correctly chosen detergent than on a dishwasher.
But inquiring minds of engineers are constantly inventing something new, such as the abovementioned original design of bottom sprayer.
And, of course, if you are a baker it is better to have a rocker rather than a nozzle. At least, for some reason we met nozzles only in budget models.
The drying grades are much easier to understand: Grade A means perfectly dry dishes, grades B and C correspond to slightly damp dishes. Note that today it will not be easy to find dishwashers with drying class C or D, they are rather rare. The drying process itself can be carried out using two different methods: condensation drying or turbo drying.
Cheaper machines generally use a condensation process whereby the dishes are rinsed with hot water, after which the water droplets evaporate, condense on the walls of the chamber and then drip down. It’s a time-consuming process. Expensive dishwashers use turbo-drying, which means blowing warm air through the dishes with a special fan. This method will be faster and more effective.
There’s a new feature in dishwashers with condensation drying that automatically opens the door when the wash is finished, so that the drying process can be finished more quickly. This is a logical and valid idea, so all other things being equal, a dishwasher with this feature looks preferable.
Cleaning the filters
Any dishwasher has a filter, usually located approximately in the middle of the bottom of the washing chamber. From time to time it needs to be taken out and manually rinsed of grease and food debris. If you have made a cult out of your own laziness or are simply squeamish, it makes sense for you to look for a model with a self-cleaning filter it does not require manual rinsing.
But honestly, our built-in skeptic doesn’t yet have much faith that self-cleaning will be as effective as manual cleaning.
If we don’t take any exotics, then there are four kinds of chemicals for domestic dishwashers: dishwasher detergents, softening salts, rinse aid and, finally, dishwasher detergents for the dishwasher itself.
Salt is used for softening if you have hard water with a lot of calcium salts in the water supply. You can check this most easily by looking in the kettle when boiling tap water. Lots of limescale? Then the water is hard. Not at all? So you don’t need to use salt. There is usually a revolving pointer on the salt compartment lid which should be set to a specific graduation, depending on the water hardness, so the salt intensity in the water is regulated. But to find out how hard your tap water is, you’ll probably need to take a sample to a specialized lab. Only very expensive premium dishwashers are able to determine water hardness and dosing the salt independently.
Energy and water consumption
Since we’re talking about different classes, it’s worth mentioning the power consumption class. The scale here is exactly the same, except that the highest class is A (modern dishwashers have become much more economical than the models that were once used to calculate the parameters of the highest class A). The higher the class, the less power your dishwasher uses.
Liquid Soap in Dishwasher? Here’s How To Fix It
A more user-friendly feature is the power consumption per cycle, which allows you to easily calculate how much electricity a machine will consume, for example, in a daily cycle for a month.
Besides, each machine indicates the standard water consumption for a standard program. Models with water consumption up to 15 liters per cycle are considered as economical, average machines will spend up to 20 liters, which in any case will be less than washing dishes manually.
Separately, it should be noted the dishwashers, connected not only to cold but also to hot water. Due to the use of heated water for washing dishes (the required temperature is obtained by mixing hot water with cold water), they allow you to significantly reduce energy consumption. On the other hand, some housewives of these machines complain that the dishes are less clean because of the poorer quality of hot water in the water supply.
Controls and display
Modern dishwashers operate under the control of an electronic system, which includes a set of buttons (mechanical or touch-sensitive) and possibly a display which will enable the machine to communicate with the user. The display usually shows the program selected and the current status of the machine (time left to the end of the program, error code in case of malfunction, etc). п.). It is hardly necessary to explain that machines with a display are more convenient to use, but also more expensive (compared to models without a display).
The lack of a display is often compensated for by the presence of LED indicators corresponding to different modes of operation of the device. They are usually also responsible for indicating the presence of salt and rinse aid.
It is also worth mentioning that many dishwashers have a special indicator light, which is projected onto the floor. For built-in dishwashers, it is a ray indicator light that lets you know when the dishwashing process is complete, without opening the door: the ray is lit while the machine is running and goes out (or changes color) when the program is finished.
A more advanced display option means that the parameters of a selected program (e.g. the exact time remaining) are projected on the floor.
Also worth looking at whether or not there is a built in backlight. The backlighting of the chamber makes loading and unloading of dishes more comfortable.
Programs and functions
On the one hand, the availability of special programs can be a deciding factor when choosing a particular model of dishwasher. On the other hand, quite a few users don’t use all the options provided, typically using two or three wash modes (fast/easy/reinforced).
It makes sense, though, to list the most common programs and features that a modern dishwasher has to offer.
- The automatic program the machine itself selects the best mode, washing the dishes until it finds them clean. As a rule, the degree of soiling of dishes in automatic mode is determined by the water transparency sensor.
- Bio-program a program for the use of detergents enriched with special additives and designed to fight grease and protein stains;
- Fast wash program for lightly soiled dishes;
- Intense wash program for heavy soiling. It has a higher temperature and a longer wash time. Suitable for pots, pans and dishes with dried-on food residues:
- Delicate washing is suitable for delicate glassware (e.g. glasses), which do not tolerate high temperatures;
- Economical program dishes with little dirt can be washed at a temperature of 50-55 C, which will allow to save up to 20%-25% of energy in the process of washing;
- Rinse, a special program designed to lightly rinse the dishes placed in the dishwasher without washing them. This is useful if you plan to start the washing process later, adding more dishes, but are concerned that in the meantime, the already laid dishes may sour and give an unpleasant smell;
- An alternative to the previous option is to run the sink with the machine underloaded. A special half-load mode can help here.
It is considered good form to have a delayed start timer is a standard feature, which is present in most modern models. The presence of a timer allows you to start the process of washing the dishes at a set time, which is especially desirable in the presence of a dual-rate meter (i.e. е. reduced cost of electricity at night) can help.
Higher priced dishwashers also feature automatic determination of water hardness, allowing correct softening salt consumption. On low and medium models, the salt level is set manually by the user, and the water hardness can be read by the user.
For modern dishwashers, the noise level can’t be called a highly critical parameter: they all run quite quietly, and the best models are virtually silent. Nevertheless, if the dishwasher is installed in the kitchen, combined with the living room, you may prefer a quieter model.
Protecting Against a Leak
Finally, the last, but not the least important point for many is a leakage protection. The prospect of flooding the neighbors does not please anybody. As with washing machines, the most vulnerable areas for leaks are the water supply and drain hoses, as well as the body of the machine itself.
The machine body is traditionally protected by a sump and a float: in case there is water in the sump, the float rises and shuts down the system. The hoses are protected by enclosed double hoses and solenoid valves. In the case of water in the external hose, the protection system is triggered and the water supply is shut off. By the way, you can install such a hose separately they are suitable for almost all machines. Thanks to full protection, you can stop worrying about potential malfunctions and put the dishwasher on snooze even if you’re not home.
So, let’s list again the sequence of steps when choosing a dishwasher.
How to Clean a Dishwasher Drain
If you notice that the dishwasher is taking longer to run, that there is an unusual noise, that the water drains more slowly and is not all over (stays on the bottom of the chamber), and that there is a bad smell inside the machine. that’s a signal that the drain system is clogged and needs urgent cleaning.
The drain system in your dishwasher has a multiple-layer drain filter that prevents food particles and other debris from clogging it. This appliance is prone to significant fouling: it constantly accumulates grease, scale, undissolved detergent pill residues, etc. д. A clogged drain filter not only reduces the quality of the machine, but can also lead to serious damage. That’s why it needs to be cleaned regularly, at least once every 1 to 2 weeks.
How to remove and clean the drain filter
The diagram for cleaning the dishwasher filter may vary depending on your machine model, but the basic steps are often the same:
- Make sure to disconnect the dishwasher from the power supply, remove the lower basket and use a sponge to remove any excess water from the bottom of the machine.
- Next to the sprinkler in the round recess is the filter. In most modern dishwashers it is easy to remove. you just need to pull it up and unscrew it clockwise (consult your dishwasher‘s manual for details on how to remove the element in your model).
- Also remove water from the hole under the filter and inspect the alcove: if you find any pieces of solid waste, remove them, otherwise they could damage the drain pump.
- Dismantle the drain filter into its component parts and wash thoroughly under running water with any detergent.
- For heavy soiling, make a citric acid solution (2 tsp). л. soak the filter parts in this solution for 1-2 hours. Rinse with soapy water. The filter can also be cleaned in vinegar.
We recommend picking up a few tips on how to reduce the likelihood of dishwasher drain clogs:
- Use a washcloth to remove any coarse dirt from your dishes before loading them in the dishwasher.
- To prevent clogs, use detergents to wash your dishes that contain special ingredients to help prevent limescale and grease build up on the strainer, drain and spray system. For example, the new Fairy Platinum Plus capsules without phosphates with the unique formula, which not only washes your pots and pans to shine, but also helps to keep your dishwasher clean for a long time, cleaning even the drain filter. The capsules help prevent grease build-up on the filter, water outlet and spray system.
- Before you clean your dishwasher, read the user manual thoroughly.
Can I Use Fae in the Dishwasher?
Against the backdrop of the economic crisis, our man really wants to save a little money. Come on, it would be a constructive economy, but sometimes in the desire to save a few extra cents in his purse, the citizen plunges himself into a monstrous waste, and all because of lack of information. There has been a “fake” on the web for quite some time that you can add regular Fairy handwashing detergent to the dishwasher instead of a special detergent. We’re dying to check it out. And really, let’s experimentally find out if you can pour Fae into the dishwasher.
Brain powder or how to make dishwasher powder 9.7 times cheaper
Now I will tell you how to make powder for the dishwasher from baking soda and washing powder. The same composition, only cheaper by an order of magnitude.
There are so many areas of our lives where our perception is shaped solely by marketing bullshit. Alas, most people do not even try to think about what lies behind all this. Very often the market situation leads to the fact that themselves. And it is precisely this amount that can fit in a relatively stable state in the form of a solution. I immediately imagined acres of fields and trucks carrying tons of powder. As a result, I switched to 1 kg packs of Booze complex dry fertilizer. You can make a tub of solution.
Today we will create an ultra-cheap dishwasher detergent. The decrease in real wages and the rise in price of imported household chemicals made me dig through textbooks, look through a bunch of materials from chemists forums and try to find ways to save on consumables. The cost of the powder has become very noticeable. The results of thoughtful research and experiments greatly surprised. For industrial applications, more often than not, chemistry technologists create individual formulations depending on water quality and objectives. Why don’t we try to figure it all out?
70% baking soda and 30% laundry detergent instead of detergent. If you’re too lazy to bake with baking soda, just use Biolan or similar products. Soda is cheaper. Food salt “Extra” instead of salt.
Types of contaminants
- Grease. The main pollutants are frying oils, salad dressing, fingerprints, greasy sauces, etc
- Protein contaminants. Less common but difficult to remove-eggs, cereal, and other similar variations.
- Dyes. Tea, coffee, beets and other strong colors.
- Smell. Chicken left in the container for a couple of weeks can be a bit of a thrill.
- Inert mechanical contaminants. Sawdust, bits of green, radioactive dust and all sorts of nonsense.
- The weird burnt stuff from the party before last. Nothing helps. Have no hope. Throw away dishes.
Various surfactants (surfactants) cope well with the first type of dirt. These are chemical compounds which, by concentrating at the thermodynamic phase interface, cause a reduction in surface tension. Simplified, you can think of it as enveloping grease particles with surfactant molecules and preventing them from sticking back to the surface.
This class of substances is quite extensive and includes two main groups: ionogenic (anionic) and non-ionic surfactants. The first disintegrates into ions in solution (salts of fatty acids, for example, the usual liquid soap is a potassium salt), the second does not dissociate (alkylglycosides and others). Anionic tend to clean better, but are more aggressive.
With the protein contaminants is a little bit more complicated. Traditionally, dishwasher powder includes enzymes (enzymes) which hydrolyze the protein into small peptide pieces. Enzymes are capricious, working in a small range of pH and temperature, as they themselves are proteins. At high wash temperatures (over 60 degrees) almost all of them will denature and stop working. An alternative option more typical of industrial products is to create an alkaline environment. Many have used a means for cleaning pipes like “Mole” and the like. It contains detergents (surfactants) and an alkali (sodium hydroxide). All that infernal mixture destroys almost any organics, including proteins and fats. Proteins are broken down into individual peptides and amino acids. Fats are transformed into soap: The same reaction is the basis of one of the ancient methods of making soap from vegetable and animal fats. The main disadvantage is that it is a very aggressive medium. A concentrated alkali will happily dissolve the skin on your hands. Caution in use is required.
Dyes are pretty straightforward. As a rule, to bleach a pigment, it is enough to oxidize it, changing its structure. This is most often accomplished with active oxygen or chlorine. Suffice it to recall hydrogen peroxide and various versions of “bleach” that easily bleaches tea, coffee, pomegranate juice and the like. Obligorously included in both dishwasher powders and laundry detergents. For the fabric, softer versions are used, so as not to dissolve the factory pattern on the clothes. The odor is eliminated with these same oxidants, since the “smelling” molecules also react with these components.
Mechanical contaminants do not require the use of household chemicals at all. High pressure jets and hot water are enough in the process of washing up.
The thought may seem a little strange to you, but automatic laundry detergent is almost identical to dishwasher detergent. Not to be unfounded. let’s look at the typical composition and purpose of each component. For a detailed description I would like to thank avor from the forum www.chemport.ru. Component parsing of two typical representatives, one “eco-friendly,” the other “baby”.
“Ecover”: zeolites, sodium disilicate, C12-18 sodium alkysulfate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, ethoxylated methyl esters of rapeseed oil fatty acids, sodium polyaspartate, sodium cocoate, cellulose gum, methylcellulose, magnesium sulfate.
“Aistenok”: 5%-15% natural fat-based soap, oxygen bleach, phosphates (in terms of P2O5), less than 5% non-ionic surfactants, sodium silicate, polycarboxylates, optical brightener, foam regulator, phosphonates, aromatic additives.
- Zeolites are insoluble solids that absorb certain pollutants (may leave behind a fine dust on improper rinsing) and are inert to the body and used in medicine as enterosorbents.
- Sodium disilicate (liquid glass) is a thickener, glue, granulosifier made from sand and caustic soda, toxic only with high pH.
- Sodium silicate is the same as sodium disilicate.
- sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate. soda ash and drinking soda are used for pH regulation and water softening. toxic only with high pH.
- C12-18 sodium alkyl sulfate is a synthetic surfactant on the basis of fatty alcohol (the source may be both vegetable and petroleum) and sulfuric acid. Used in shampoos low or no toxicity.
- ethoxylated methyl esters of fatty acids of rapeseed oil. synthetic non-ionic surfactants based on ethylene oxide and methyl esters of LC rapeseed oil, semi-natural product, toxicity see alkyl sulfates.
- sodium polyaspartate is an expensive additive based on a natural amino acid and serves as a thickener, water softener, and pollutant desorber, non-toxic absorbed by the body like food.
- Sodium cocoate. analog of regular soap, only not based on animal fatty acids, but on fatty acids of coconut oil.
- cellulose gum is a derivative of cellulose (wood). Same purpose as sodium polyasparginate, low toxicity.
- Methylcellulose. similar, but used as a thickener.
- magnesium sulfate Used in medicine, both for intravenous and oral administration. magnesia. In powders, an inert filler.
- Natural fat-based soaps. normal soap, but on the basis of fatty acids of animal origin, similar to sodium cocoate
- oxygen bleach. sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate have properties similar to peroxide, which girls bleach their hair, during washing they decompose and kill microflora, decomposition products are slightly toxic (borates) or almost non-toxic (carbonates).
- phosphates (in terms of P2O5). water softener and pH regulator sodium tripolyphosphate, phosphates are used as food additives and are low toxic.
- less than 5% of nonionic surfactants. compounds similar to ethoxylated esters of canola oil fat, but products derived from oil may also be used as hydrophobic component (similar to alkyl sulfates)
- polycarboxylates. either carboxymethylcellulose or derivatives of polyacrylic acid (used in diapers, particularly in cosmetic gels) low toxicity, the same purpose as polyasparaginate and cellulose gum (the latter may even be identical)
- Optical brightener. a bluish-type dye causes white laundry to glow white due to fluorescence, medium toxicity, but the dosage in the powder is 10,000 to 100,000 times less than necessary to cause a simple malaise from the effects of this dye on the body.
- Defoamer, defoamer. usually silicone-based oil, (similar to those used for breast prosthetics) if it is not in the composition, the powder can not be used in washing machines, the toxicity is extremely low.
- Phosphonates. water softeners, low toxicity
- Aromatic additives. generally less toxic than feminine fumes.
In fact, all the components listed are non-toxic and have passed every conceivable test, including washability, teratogenic and oncogenic tests on lab rats. If you don’t chew it with spoons, you won’t have any health problems. If poorly flushable and toxic substances were used in the production of laundry detergents for clothes, consumers would already be walking around with contact dermatitis from wearing such items. I liked the wording from the same forum, describing the “technological complexity” of manufacturing such powders:
And now let’s compare with the composition of dishwasher powders. Let’s take the standard Finish detergent. A little confused by the beginning “15% or more, but not less than 30%”, which is logically true, but looks very strange. Wrong reading) The main components are surfactant from fats, oxidant (bleach from stains), polyphosphate. softener, enzymes. protein breakdown. Here is a similar composition of a very common powder Somat:
Now let’s take washing powder. I’ve tried the Ushastoy Nyan and Biolan variants. Same with minor variations. Biolan’s composition is exactly the same:
As you can see there is nothing criminal in the composition. The substances used vary only slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. The only “superfluous” ingredients for a dishwasher are optical whitener. But this fluorescent is in microdoses and is perfectly washed out during the rinse. That same “Biolan automatic” does not have it at all. Of course there will always be chemophobes, but let them wash everything with soap nuts and mustard powder. If there are strange people willing to pay for it, then why not charge them a multiple markup for the “Eco-Organic” product? By the way, “Ushastiy Nanny” is pleasant with its faint odor, but it is essentially identical in composition to other powders of our manufacturer “Nevskaya Cosmetics”. Lotus, Max, Ordinary Powder, Sarma. The only difference is the flavoring and marketing positioning.
Let’s play alchemist
Having chosen minimally smelling and foamy automatic washing machine detergent it would be possible to calm down. The cost savings are already very substantial. But we will not stop there and try to radically lower the cost of the final dishwashing detergent. I apologize at once for the quality of some pictures. I took pictures on my slipper, and a normal camera is now at work.
As a basis of the product we will take a well-known and very cheap baking soda. Baking soda itself is sodium hydrogen carbonate. NaHCO3. In solution has a mildly alkaline reaction and has detergent properties. But it is much more effective to use a product of its thermal decomposition. washing soda, aka sodium carbonate. Na2CO3. Sodium carbonate already has a sharply alkaline reaction in solution, about 11 pH. Reacts with fats to form soap and successfully hydrolyzes proteins. It is very easy to get sodium carbonate. it is enough to heat it above 60 degrees. I recommend a pan/pan and heating in the oven for an hour. As a result, the resulting powder loses about 25% of its weight. Use caution when handling sodium carbonate! The substance can cause burns to mucous membranes, eyes and other body surfaces. Use gloves, do not eat, inhale, and be careful. Soda is not a terrible poison, but alkaline burns have never made anyone happy. Now it remains to combine 70% sodium carbonate and 30% of detergent in order to make a small amount of detergents, bleach and other ingredients. By the way, as a result of dilution, we reduce the total amount of potentially unwashed surfactants.
The first thing the washing soda will have to deal with is grease contamination. As a test sample was taken a pan after frying a pork chop.
After a standard cycle, the picture is more than acceptable. The frying pan is clean to the touch, no grease is visible.
Particularly difficult test. Protein and grease contamination. Burnt oatmeal on milk. Even “special” detergents rarely pick up such dirt the first time. Let’s try it on a heavy duty cycle, without cleaning anything beforehand.
The result is good. There are small traces of this mess, but I do not think that other powders would have cleaned better.
Let’s calculate the savings
It’s a little hard for me to calculate an exact figure, but let’s try to at least roughly compare. A kilo of our product will cost 74310=58.
Now the “special” Finish powder is 560 per kg. The difference is about a factor of 10! If you take tablets that contain the same thing, only with pretty granules, the difference is quite out of the question.
Let’s try to calculate the scale of annual savings. You need about 20 grams of powder per wash. In my family of 4, the dishwasher usually runs twice a day, but let’s take 1 run a day as an average. 20365 = 7300 grams of powder a year. That’s 4088 for “special” and 423 rubles for our version.
One more classical way of earning. special salt for regeneration of ion-exchange filter. Of course, rock salt with sand can not be poured there. But let’s bring up GOST R 51574-2000 for edible salt of the “Extra” variety. Mass fraction of NaCl. at least 99.7%. The rest are minor calcium and magnesium impurities. Sorry, but this, according to the purity classification of chemical reagents, is better than “Pure for analysis”. “h.д.а.” It is “Chemically pure” (“x.ч.”). the highest degree of purity of the reagent. of the main component more than 99%. The only nuance is that you should not use iodized or fluoridated varieties. You believe that salt that is GOST standardized for purity is good for eating, but not clean enough for the dishwasher?
Potential disadvantages and problems
I want to clarify right away that I am not responsible for the performance of your dishwasher or any potential health problems associated with eating, drinking, or otherwise incomprehensibly using the results of the experiments. I’m just describing my experience and the information I’ve received in this area. If there are professional chemists among you, I would be glad to hear your point of view. The only problem I can potentially see is that due to the high alkaline reaction of the solution, you can damage particularly delicate painted faora, flutes or something similar. But such things can be washed without detergents at all. I still recommend that you carefully test everything and weigh it. In terms of health issues, I don’t see anything redeeming. We use surfactants in even lower concentrations than in special powders. The basis. a harmless sodium carbonate, which is part of the antacid drugs for gastritis. Allergic reactions to components of washing powder? If you wash your clothes with it and everything is fine, you don’t see any problems. When washing by hand, you leave many times more residual dishwashing detergent on plates and cups. And nothing critical happens. In any case, I would like you to be consciously aware of exactly what you are doing in terms of household chemicals and why.
UPD Users Guzzle and apakin offer a cheap version of a local Russian manufacturer. Sold in Ashan, called Sanit. Approximate price 100 p / kg. It is 2 times more expensive than the considered variant, but it is sharpened directly for dishwashers.
Ice in Washer Fluid Frozen. SOLVED!
UPD2 It is not a very effective detergent. Washing is decent, but worse than baking soda and detergent. Leaves traces on the dishes, completely washed off the surface when rinsing. Standard mode. Probably can be diluted with baking soda until a clean flush.
UPD3 I was also advised by Genegineer to pay attention to the large packaging of salt in washers for large regeneration systems. Available in 25kg, t.е. In the neighborhood of 25 per kilo. Here, for example, a variant from Leroy:
A word of warning that we will do it pills, not capsules, which should dissolve gradually layer by layer and alternately activate the salt, detergent and rinse aid. it will be very difficult to do. And here are tablets similar to Finish Classic. can be “assembled” from what you have on hand. To understand how to make tablets, you need to understand the composition of purchased counterparts.
Some powders simply consist of powder without any salt or other ingredients, while others contain a whole complex of active ingredients. That’s why you see promising packages on store shelves labeled “3-in-1”, “7-in-1”, “All in One”, etc.д.
It may contain such components:
- Sodium citrate. You may have seen this additive in many “sour” products labeled E331. In tablets it promotes foaming and sanitizes water and dishes.
What happens when you put washing up liquid in dishwasher نتیجه استفاده مایه ظرف شوهی در ماشین ظرف
- Sodium percarbonate is a substance synthesized from sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. The commercial name for the substance is Persol. Persol is used in capsules, powders, and other detergents as a bleach. Adds additional action to contaminants by breaking them down.
- Sodium hydrogen carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or simply baking soda. Also has a softening effect.
- Sodium disilicate or “liquid glass. This aqueous alkaline solution of sodium silicates binds all the components of the product into granules, further softening the water.
- Sodium gluconate is not only used in metallurgy, construction and the oil industry. It is also used in the food industry and in the production of household chemicals. Its purpose is to prevent the formation of lime scale, soften water.
- Isoctyl glucoside is the main ingredient of the rinse aid.
- Sorbitol. In the food industry, it is best known as a sweetener, while in cosmetics and household chemistry it is used to make homogeneous, transparent gels. Acts as a hygroscopic component and thickener.
Important! In addition to other ingredients, all-purpose products can contain phosphates and fragrances.
Looking at the composition, you do not need to be a chemist to ask a quite logical question: why are there so many water softeners?? It looks especially strange when one considers the fact that the softening process already takes place in an ion-exchanger with regenerating salt
Aromatic additive is also useless. If washing in the dishwasher justifies its use. it’s nice to get the scent of lemon or flowers on your clothes. then the dishes shouldn’t smell. This is most likely just a publicity stunt.
Conclusion: some substances can be not used at all and some can be replaced with cheaper and safer ones.
What happens if you put Fairy or Gala in the dishwasher?
Dishwashers have long been a favorite household appliance in the kitchen, but, unfortunately, many users have not learned how to use such equipment. As a rule, they don’t write all the recommendations in the microwave oven manuals, and they don’t describe what situations can arise after a certain action. For example, what can replace dishwasher detergents?
Dishwasher powders and special tablets are not cheap detergents. Sometimes they can end up at the most inopportune moment for us. Trying to save the situation, some people start using ordinary detergents for washing kitchen utensils, i.e. Fairy, Gala, etc.д. You have these remedies on hand at all times in the house. The thing is, once the dishwasher starts up with these remedies, there’s a lot of foam which starts leaking out of the machine and it’s very hard to get rid of it. There is no use trying to get rid of the foam residue as it will appear again and again. In the end, the foam can rise so high that the control unit of the machine will be flooded. In this case, you will have to spend money to repair dishwashers and completely replace the control unit. Or maybe you should buy a new dishwasher.
There is one rule of thumb! Dishwashers always need special additives, such as dishwashing powders or tablets, regenerating salt and conditioners. Many users are convinced that for quality operation of the machine you do not need to spend money on more conditioners or salt, just buy the tablets.
But, in fact, this is not the case! Not using conditioner can damage the machine and lower the dishwasher‘s cleaning performance. As for salt, it’s also very important, because it makes the water softer and doesn’t leave white stains on the dishes. If you ignore these tips and don’t use salt, you may soon see limescale build up, resulting in the machine lasting much less time than it should. Never use any other dishwasher-savings products in the dishwasher.
If you do accidentally damage your machine, you can call a qualified technician at our website.