What kind of auger is necessary for installation of the air conditioner?

mistakes when installing and connecting the air conditioner in the apartment.

How to establish and connect air conditioner by yourself? Let’s be honest with ourselves and answer this question straightforwardly, even if we are talking about a low-powered household variant. no way.

If you do not have special equipment (roll pins, torque wrenches, vacuum pump and much more) and skills to work with them, then do it for the first time with your own hands, you are unlikely to succeed.

It does not matter how many useful advices and instructions from A to Z you read, you can still miss some unnoticeable detail, or do the work due to lack of experience not qualitatively enough.

As a result, after a certain period of time, you will still have to call in specialists and redo everything.

What is the purpose of this article? In order you could control the quality of works by yourself while installing conditioner or a conditioner brigade, and be sure that your conditioner will work long time and without any problems.

With what the work begins? First of all you choose a place for installation of conditioner and mark out a hole for laying of interblock communications.

Then you start drilling a through hole to the street. You should use a drill with length not less than 800mm and diameter from 45mm.

For the powerful conditioners with more than 2,5 KW you will need a drill with a diameter of 80 mm.

To avoid dust formation in the room, the economical option is to hang a plastic bag under the place of drilling.

Professional installers have long used a construction vacuum cleaner for this purpose.

However, when wet drilling solid concrete walls, no amount of protection and vacuuming will save you.

This hole after all communications are laid through it is subsequently filled with foam.

In this way the condensate will flow out unobstructed and the water will not accumulate and get moldy in the drain.

This is not correct. The fact is that when you drill in a predetermined place, you can accidentally hit the rebar.

In the end the hole will have to be moved. Because of that the air conditioner itself will be displaced inside the room by several centimeters.

This will create the maximum slope for the main pipes, and help prevent oil from getting into the evaporator.

Expose the mounting plate strictly on the level.

In this case the distance from the ceiling to the air-conditioner itself should be not less than 10 cm. It provides good air intake and free assembling-disassembling of the indoor unit.

For reliable fixation use quality dowel nails 640mm or 832mm.

Then you can go on to install the outdoor unit. You mark the mounting points of the brackets.

Use a 12mm drill to make the holes. After that you fix the brackets with dowel nails 1280mm.

Be fixed firmly, especially if the condo hangs from the side of the house with the sidewalk or the sidewalk.

The distance from the rear wall of the outdoor unit to the wall of the building should be at least 10-20cm. Though a lot will depend on the fan capacity.

Where to place the outdoor unit, under a window or at the side, is a matter of aesthetics and usability.

Many people don’t like extra meters of cables and pipes hanging down the wall. In this case, choose a lateral arrangement.

Although competent installers and cable and freonconductor, can lay very nicely. Here already a lot depends on the level of professionalism of the executors.

It is a little bit easier to serve an air conditioner under a window than on the side. Especially if in a few years the bolts of it will completely rust. In this case you cannot do without tower or climbing equipment.

If you install the unit at the side of the window, it is not superfluous to be secured. The procedure is as follows.

You are lifting a conditioner on a window sill. You put a rope through the drilled hole and pull it from the street and tie it behind the block.

Your partner insures the conditioner with this rope, and you install it on the brackets. Until the bolts are tightened, it is better not to untie the rope.

After you finish installing the outdoor unit, move on to preparing and laying the inter-unit utilities.

For a standard air conditioner with power up to 2.5kw you will need the following materials:

You measure the necessary length of freon pipeline leaving reserve that will go on the ring behind the outdoor unit.

At greater lengths, the hydraulic loop creates additional resistance to the freon and only hampers the operation of the air conditioner! Although some people still make it, allegedly to reduce the noise.

While making the cut, it is necessary to keep the end of copper pipe strictly downwards, in order to exclude any shavings getting inside.

Be careful not to scratch the skirt with the rimmer. Quality of rolling up is one of the most important moments in installation of air-conditioner.

The width of the flare should be such that the joint finally slides freely and unhindered into the nut.

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The height of the tube in the rolling clamp is strictly regulated.

The simplest and the checked up ancient way to define the quality of rolling, at least at the initial stage, is to see your reflection in the “skirt.

The flare of the outdoor unit tubes will have to be done outdoors in the weight. Otherwise the main pipe simply will not fit through the hole.

If you take them in cold and open, then due to the dew point effect, condensate will form inside the tube, which on a badly vacuumed air conditioner, can lead to unfortunate consequences.

Move on to the stage of connecting utilities.

Connect the flared tubes to the inside of air conditioner unit using crescent wrenches.

If you are rich with a torque wrench, it is better to use it.

Here are the recommended tightening forces for various diameters of freon tubing:

Then you take the interblock cable and twist it all together with the freon line with the help of reinforced tape or vinyl tape.

Do not forget to pull the insulation of the required diameter on the copper tubes.

To prevent dirt from accidentally getting inside the tube, wrap the ends with duct tape.

Otherwise, from the street side under the influence of UV rays, within a few seasons it all turns into dust.

If your thermoflex is light resistant and not afraid of the sun, then think about the birds. Crows are very good at pecking and nesting such material.

Here gradually condensate will form, and eventually a neat trickle of water will appear on your wallpaper.

HVAC TOOLS. ||AIRCONDITIONING TOOLS. ||SPLIT AC TOOLS.

The main pipe itself wrapped with a tape inside the room is hidden in a plastic box.

However, if you have a short section and old wallpaper remains, then instead of using a box, the main line can be covered with them. You get an almost invisible picture.

Next, run the line through the through-hole to the outside.

Please note. the drainage hose must be located below the freon line.

Fix the indoor unit to the mounting plate.

Connect the drainage hoses of the air conditioner.

For extensions, many use regular metal-plastic pipe d-16mm. Unscrew the factory drainage tube and insert the metal-plastic, sealing the connection with electrical tape on top.

But inside the laminate, after some time a fungus can form that will not let the water out fast enough.

Therefore other installers use only corrugated pipes as a drain.

In addition, it is the corrugated drain that allows you to connect directly to the tub without additional connections.

To finish with the indoor unit move on to the connection of power wires.

After opening the front cover of the indoor unit, unscrew the plastic plug to connect the cable.

After putting the cable through, connect it according to the wiring diagram. To do this, look for markings on the terminal block:

Check on the power cable where you have phase and zero and connect the appropriate ends to their terminals.

When you connect a small capacity air conditioner (up to 2,5 kw) directly from the switchboard without the socket, you have to have a three-core cable VVGng-Ls 32,5 mm2 in the wall joint.

A 16A circuit breaker is installed in the switchboard.

If you have a low-power converter up to 1 kW you can of course use the cross section of 1.5mm2 automatic 10A, but 2.5mm2 is more universal and let you easily change the split-system of higher power in the future.

If conditioner will be connected through the existing socket, then use the wire with PVA32,5mm2 plug.

There is also nothing difficult in connection of an indoor and outdoor unit. Here, as a rule, cable 42.5mm2 or 52.5mm2 is used. The marking of the terminals on these units is the same.

Respectively, you put a cable (not PVS wire, but VVGng cable) between them!) and connect the wires of the same color to the terminals L1 on the indoor unit and L1 on the outdoor unit, N on the indoor unit and N on the outdoor unit, etc.д. Just follow the wiring diagram and the inscriptions.

Sometimes conditioner in a room is powered not from socket but from outside unit (more often at inverter models). In this case, the outdoor unit will have a few more terminals.

This is phase-zero-ground. In this case you just lay the cable from power socket or diffusers in switchboard to the outside and not to the inside unit.

Connection of freon line pipes outside is similar to the room connection.

And for the following stage of the works you will need a vacuum pump. It is necessary for vacuum drying of the freon line.

If you don’t evacuate it, it will affect the pressure in the system (it will rise). Performance of the compressor thus can fall about 30-35%, and it will work under a constant load.

And also the moisture in the air affects the rapid decomposition of the oil and increase the level of acidity in it.

This then leads to two consequences:

Therefore, if the invited “specialist” came without a vacuum pump, you know that very soon you will see him again. And you will meet with it very often.

Time of work of vacuum pump depends on length of a line. The minimum length is 2m. If you have less, sooner or later oil from compressor will surely get into evaporator and your conditioner will not operate long time.

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For a standard section of small length, vacuuming time of 15 to 20 minutes. It is counted after the vacuum is directly created (reaching a pressure of 5 torr). This can be checked on the manometric manifold or you can hear the changes in the sound of the pump.

When the sound is almost gone, start the countdown from that point.

Be sure to check the drainage before the freon pumping process. For this purpose remove filter and pour clear water on evaporator of the internal unit, as if imitating the condensate formation.

If the drainage is done correctly, the water will flow out freely through the tube and will not overflow over the edge of the internal sump.

Also before opening the ports of freon line it is desirable to check pressure in system. As a rule the manufacturer charging 5 meters of refrigerant and informing about it on the nameplate of outdoor unit.

But there are also half-empty copies (they save freon).

Further check tightness of all connections. Superprofessionals do it with nitrogen at 38 bar for the right price. But are you willing to pay money for such quality?

With standard variant, after disconnecting the vacuum pump you just let some amount of coolant (5-7 bar) into the line and remember the value of pressure.

Wait for about 20 minutes and check if the readings have not changed. If the result is positive, using hexahedrons open completely the service cocks of air conditioner and start all freon in the line.

Then you give a voltage on air conditioner and test it in all modes. When cooling you measure the temperature of the evaporator surface with a pyrometer, or preferably with a contact thermometer.

After entering working mode it must be not less than 6C. If temperature is higher, it possibly need additional charging of freon.

In this case it is more used full refilling of the system, but not just topping up, because of complexity of the process.

If all the stages of installation are passed without any remarks, you can enjoy the coolness and consider that your conditioner is installed correctly.

When choosing where to install your air conditioner, there are several factors to consider:

  • The space between the indoor unit and the ceiling should not be less than 15 cm, the distance from the walls to the unit not less than 30 cm, the barrier to the passage of cold air should not be closer than 150 cm;
  • Determine the location of the outdoor unit (usually under a window or on the right side of a window);
  • When choosing the location of both units, try to keep the length of the route shorter (up to 6 m eliminates the need for additional dressing). You can get rid of the moisture by “squirting”, using extra Freon to push it out. There is less moisture in the short route.

Before installation it is necessary to read carefully the instruction which is included to the purchased conditioner. All the technology of installing air conditioners is prescribed there.

Tools that will be needed in future

An experienced installer with a minimum set of budgetary tools can qualitatively perform the work. However, more expensive and functional tools simplify and speed up installation, so you’ll need it when you’re installing air conditioners inline.

  • Electronic scales for refrigerant. Measure the right amount of gas to fill the air conditioner.
  • Electronic gauge stations. They accurately measure the pressure of the refrigerant in the air conditioning system.
  • Leak Detector. For rapid freon leakage testing.
  • Anemometer. Needed when installing duct type air conditioners. It measures air speed in a split system and helps to adjust it.
  • Non-contact thermometer. We recommend the shock-resistant infrared models.
  • Construction tool for service. You need it to dismantle the unit.

Tools for air conditioners installation. Drill bits SDS-max for penetrating openings (break-through drill) are designed for drilling holes of large diameters: from 45 to 80 mm in concrete, masonry and silicate brick, which is ideal for laying cables and pipelines.

You don’t need to get a permit to install an air conditioner or any other equipment on the facade of the building from the owners’ consent. Practice, court decisions: Noise of air conditioner exceeds permissible noise level, refurbishment and reconstruction were made, safety standards were violated.

The air conditioners installation in the apartment houses demands to follow the certain rules, norms of SanPin and sometimes approvals. Placing a split system unit on the facade of a block of flats can be considered illegal, it depends on the norms in force in the region.

The outdoor unit must be installed strictly horizontally. Even small distortions are not allowed. It negatively influences the circulation of freon (coolant). It is recommended that wind blows on the outdoor unit. The most suitable place for installation of an external unit of split system is a balcony or a place under a roof.

  • Vacuum pumps (vacuum cleaners)
  • Universal tool kits
  • Rollers, roll sets, reamers
  • Electronic scales for freon
  • Pressure gauge manifolds
  • Filling hoses for gauge manifolds
  • Service valves, quick disconnects
  • Freon Adapters
  • large rotary tool and pobedite drill bit required for brick or concrete walls
  • It is better to drill wooden wall with drill bit with 45 mm diameter with a feather drill bit
  • Metal profile or sandwich is better to drill with 45 mm bimetal core bit.

Diamond Hit Technology. Drilling holes for mounting air conditioners and pipes

Introducing Diamond Hit dry diamond drilling technology by Adel. Drilling holes for air conditioning installation, supply ventilation, water and gas pipes without water supply. Diamond drilling usually requires a water supply in the cutting zone. In rooms with trim, multi-layered masonry with insulation, water causes great problems. Drilling holes in parquet or laminate floors is not possible. Drilling into ceilings also causes big problems. The use of a peorator and pobedite drills is not possible in the presence of reinforcement. The price of large diameters is very high.

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Diamond Hit technology solves all these problems.

To drill without water with Diamond Hit (DH) bits use manual drills and professional machines with high frequency micro-impact. We recommend the ideal Diamond Hit set for drilling holes of diameter 32 to 82 mm in reinforced concrete, and 32 to 132 mm in lightweight materials.

  • Milwaukee dd2 160 xe impact drill.
  • DH diamond drill bit working length of 300 mm.
  • Aluminum extension.
  • Dust extraction.
  • Industrial vacuum cleaner.

Prepare the kit for work and drill in the following sequence:

  • Position handle at your fingertips.
  • Screw the fixer and be sure to have an additional feint.
  • Fit the Diamond Hit dust extractor.
  • Tighten all connections with wrenches.
  • Fit the Diamond Hit bit.
  • Connect the vacuum cleaner hose to the dust outlet.
  • Set the drill to the speed appropriate for the diameter of the core bit. For diameters from 32 to 82 mm, we recommend the second speed of 3000 rpm. For diameters 92 to 132 mm in lightweight materials we recommend a first speed of 1500 rpm.
  • Switch drill to hammerless mode.
  • Use the Adel center punch or start boring at an angle for easier drilling.
  • Turn on the vacuum cleaner.
  • Drill according to markings to a depth of 3 to 5 mm.
  • Remove the center point.
  • Switch your drill to impact mode.
  • Drill in impact mode to the required depth.
  • Make reciprocating movements with the crown every 10. 20 seconds. Thus you reduce tooth friction.
  • Do not apply too much pressure on the drill.
  • Maintain focus on the front handle of the drill.
  • Check periodically that the core bit is free of drilling dust. The air flow when the vacuum cleaner is running should pass freely through the crown, cooling the segments. Average drilling speed with DH bits is 1. 2 cm/minute in medium reinforced concrete and up to 3. 6 cm/minute in lightweight materials. If the drill bit is drilling slower, drill the diamond segments on the Adel sharpening plate.To do this, drill 3 to 4 holes into the sharpening plate at a depth of 10 mm at impact-free first speed. You will thus remove the polished diamonds and open up new ones. This situation is extremely rare, especially when drilling in concrete with high silica.
  • For holes deeper than 300 mm use Adel aluminum extensions or special DH bits 450, 600 or 900 mm long. You can find more information on our website diamond-hit.com

Dmitriy Davydov Head of Sales Department

If you have any questions about the selection of diamond tools for any task please give me a call, I will be happy to advise you!

Installation of an air conditioner with your own hands: rules, tools and steps of installation

In order to provide continuous operation of an air conditioner it is very important to mount it correctly. We want to tell you about the order and methods of installation of wall-mounted climate systems with your own hands and talk about the tools you need for this.

Is it possible to install a wall-mounted split-system by oneself?? It is possible, but it is necessary to be equipped with necessary tools, to know the general rules and to study carefully the instruction on installation, which is attached to the technical documentation of the conditioner.

Safety is the main thing to pay attention to

Even professionals are sometimes injured during work, and with ordinary users is several times more likely. No matter how thick the wall or how big the hole needs to be. The most important thing is to stay healthy without getting hurt. To do this:

  • Take care of personal protection. gloves, respirator and goggles are compulsory;
  • check the torch before you start drilling. tighten the screws which may come loose from vibration, make sure the drill is securely fastened, lubricate the tool by running it idle for a while;
  • Drill correctly. make sure you are in as steady a position as possible and that you hold the drill rig firmly so as not to drop it if it jams or hits a rebar;
  • be careful. do not touch the auger immediately after drilling or you will get burns, hold the torch only by the handles designed for it (they are not only comfortable, but also insulated, so you will not get an electric shock if you collide with domestic wiring), try not to get too close to rotating parts and never point the working tool at people.

Safety rules are simple, but not obvious to those who rarely use a peorator, even for such large-scale purposes as drilling exterior walls.

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